Replaces
Part Details
Product Features
TRQ brake rotors are manufactured using premium G3000 casting alloy to reduce noise while braking and enhance service life. TRQ rotors have a non-directional finish to minimize the break-in period for new rotors and reduce vibrations throughout the rotor’s lifecycle. TRQ recommends replacing brake pads when you replace rotors to ensure even wear and improved component performance. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Created on:
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com. Your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how to video help you out. The next time you need a part for your vehicle think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks. In this video we show you how to replace the rear brakes on this 2003 Nissan Altima, pretty much the same for any 2002 to 2006. We show you the right hand, the left hand is the same procedure. We do always recommend you replace your brakes in pairs.
The items you'll need for this repair are new brakes pads and rotor kit from 1A Auto.com; 8, 12, 14, 19 and 21 mm sockets with a ratchet. A piece of pipe for some extra leverage. Brake cleaner, brake grease, brake fluid, jack and jack stands and a torque wrench. Raise and remove your wheel and tire. If you don't have the benefit of air tools, loosen the lug nuts with the vehicle on the ground, then raise and support it and remove the lug nuts the rest of the way. Inspect your brakes. You can look through and see the brake pads, and there's not much left to the brake pads on this vehicle and the rotor is in rough shape, pretty corroded with some large gouges. To just replace the pads you can see we took that top bolt out, but we're going to take the whole rotor off because it's actually frozen on this car.
Its two 19 mm bolts and you can see we use a 19 mm socket with a ratchet and a pipe for some extra leverage. You'll need to do this if you want to replace the rotor anyways, because you need to take the whole caliper bracket off in order to get the rotor off. Once the bolts are removed, using a flat blade screwdriver pry that off. Then you can set that aside. Your old rotor pulls right off. You want to use a flat blade screwdriver and pop this plug out of the rotor. Spray down your emergency brake assembly with some brake cleaner. Now using brake cleaner wipe down your new rotor. Then you put some brake grease on either end of your brake pads. You can see here's your adjuster for your other brake and that hole in the rotor is so you can reach the adjuster with a screwdriver. Turn it until you feel the parking brake drag on the inside a little bit; once adjusted then you can replace the plug. As we said before, our caliper was in bad shape. We ended up having to replace it, but you can ad lib along with us. You can put your caliper back in place.
Take the pads out of your caliper, and then put the caliper back in place. Put the two 19 mm bolts in place and then tighten them up to 85 - 90 foot pounds. Now you want to remove this 14 mm bolt right here. Once the bolt's removed pull your caliper back and then push, your brake pad slides into place. Once the sides are in place you can put your brake pads back in and push your caliper back into place and replace that 14mm bolt. Fast forward as we tighten that bolt back up to 25 foot pounds. - to your brake lines. Now we're going to fast forward here as Don replaces the wheel. You want to put the lug nuts on preliminarily. Lower the vehicle and tighten them the rest of the way. Now torque the lug nuts to a 100 foot pounds in a crossing pattern. After doing any repair on the brakes, before taking it out onto the road it's important to do a couple of things first. First you want to pump the brakes until the brake pedal firms up. Then you want to do a stop test from five miles per hour and then 10 miles per hour.
We hope this video helps you out; brought to you by 1AAuto.com. Your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll free 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the internet and in person.
Tools used
We're going to take these lug nuts off. Use a 21-millimeter socket, and remove the wheel. These two bolts out, use a 14-millimeter wrench. That one's stuck.
I'm going to take this lower caliper bolt off. I'm going to use a 14-millimeter socket. I'm not going to take the top one off because the brake hose is in the way, so I'm just going to have to tip this caliper up and slide that out.
I'm just going to use a straight-blade screwdriver, just compress the caliper. Just compress the caliper a little bit, and then just slide it up and off like that. And you can work it back and forth. This one's a little bit seized in here, so I'm going to have to clean that up, but normally, it should just slide right off. And slide it right off like that. Take a right brake caliper hanger and just hang it up. Make sure there's no tension on the brake hose.
We'll take the brake pads off. You can use a screwdriver and pry them out. We're going to take this caliper bracket off, take these two bolts off. We're going to use a 17-millimeter socket. Take those bolts out, and just slide the caliper bracket right off.
Now, we're going to take the brake rotor off. Just take a hammer. I'm going to hit it right here, here, in those areas. Just be careful not to hit the studs. Give it a tap, slide it off. And just take a wire brush, clean up some of this rust. If anything's built up, make sure you get that off. That's all cleaned up. Just use a little bit of copper anti-seize, just a nice thin coat, so the rotor doesn't get stuck on.
All right, take the rotor. We're just going to install it backwards. Take some brake parts cleaner, clean this off. Use a rag. There is a coating on the brakes themselves, on the rotor. Flip it around. Do the same on this side and wipe it down.
On the old rotor, there's a little plug right here. Just take a pocket screwdriver, pull that out. Just install that in the new one. Just line it up. We're good to go.
Just take this anti-rattle clip off, or pad slide clip, and just use a pocket screwdriver, slide this off. Take a wire brush, just clean up this area. Take a little brake caliper grease right there and right there. Take the new anti-rattle clip, slide it in place. Do the same on the other side.
And just take a little brake parts cleaner. Just clean out the...where the brake caliper pins go. And use a rag to clean that out. And also, the pins themselves, a little brake parts cleaner, clean it up. And you can use a little bit of brake caliper grease on these. And we'll reinstall these when we put the caliper back on.
Just take a little more brake caliper grease, put it on the slides, right there and right there. Slide the bracket over the rotor. Take the two bolts, get those started, and torque those bolts to 62 foot-pounds.
Take the brake pads. The inside brake pad is going to have the one with the wear indicator at the base of the pad, just like this. And the outside one with no indicator, slide that in position.
Take the brake caliper off the hanger, and you want to use a brake caliper compressing tool. I'm just going to take an old brake pad, slide it in here, and compress the brake pad. That's going to push the piston back, push the fluid through the hoses and lines, back up into the master cylinder. Just do it nice and slow.
And just some brake caliper grease on this slide pin, and that's good. Slide that back in. Make sure that seals up there. And take the other slide pin and bolt, and slide that back in. And torque that bolt to 32 foot-pounds. If you took that top bolt out, torque that one as well. We didn't take it out, so we're good.
Reinstall the wheel. Put the lug nuts on. Now I'm going to torque the lug nuts to 83 foot-pounds in a star pattern to tighten the wheel down evenly.
And I'll just go around again, double check. And pump the brake pedal nice and slow. There's going to be an air gap between the brake caliper piston and the brake pads. And then, check the brake fluid level and adjust accordingly.
Tools used
Tools used
