Replaces
Part Details
TRQ suspension kits are manufactured using premium raw materials and coatings for extended service life. Each TRQ suspension component is designed to be a direct, maintenance-free replacement to the stock unit. To extend the life of your steering and suspension components, TRQ recommends replacing components in pairs, sets, or kits. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Install Tip: When replacing steering components, have a professional alignment performed afterwards. This ensures proper tracking and even tire wear.
Our steering and suspension components are pre-greased and sealed for long life and do not require the extra maintenance typically required by greaseable versions.
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Hi, I'm Don for 1A Auto. I hope this how to video helps you out. The next time you need a part for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we'll show you how to replace a front control arm on this 2003 Nissan Altima, it's same process on these Altima's from 2002 to 2006 and we show you on the passenger side but the driver's side is the same process. The items you'll need for this is a new front control arm from 1AAuto.com, 12, 19 and 21 mm sockets and racket with a piece of pipe for extra leverage, 22 mm wrench, penetrating oil, a torque wrench, hammer, pliers and jack and jack stands. After this repair, you will want to have the alignment checked on your vehicle.
Start off by removing your wheel, if you don't have air powered tools you're going to remove the lug nuts while the vehicle is on the ground and jack it up and remove them the rest of the way.
The first thing on the control arm that you want to do is remove this cotter pin. You just want to straighten out the prongs and pull it out from the other side using pliers. Once you get the pin out, spray it with some penetrating oil to break it loose and then remove it with the 22 mm wrench. Once the nut is removed, hit the knuckle with a hammer and that will allow you to pull this down.
Next, you want to remove this 19 mm bolt. Now you do want to put an additional stand underneath your engine here because to remove the last control arm bolt, you're first going have to remove one of these engine brackets. To do that, you just want to remove the 19 mm bolt on the one end and the two 12 mm bolts on the other. Once those are removed, you can just remove that bracket. Now remove these last two 19 mm bolts holding in your control arm. Once all of those are removed, you just want to pry this out.
Old control arm on the left, the new one from 1A Auto on the right, you can see they're identical and they are going to mount exactly the same. Before you install your new control arm, you want to first remove the castle nut and pull off that plastic cover and then feed your new control arm into place. You may need some assistance from a hammer. You want to do this carefully and we are going to fast forward as he does this but you are just trying to line up the holes on the control arm with the holes on the body of the car. Now you can replace that 19 mm bolt and just hammer it in half way and that will hold the control arm in place. Then replace these two 19 mm bolts and then just tighten them up. Tighten up this bolt the rest of the way.
If you replace bracket and the 19 mm nut and the two 12 mm bolts and then you just want to torque each of these 19 mm bolts to 85 foot pounds. Now you can remove that stand now. Now push the stud of the control arm into the hole in the wheel and replace that nut. We do supply you with a new castle nut. Once you've tightened it up, put the cotter pin into place and using pliers bend the prongs in opposite directions. Replace your wheel, hubcap and lug nuts and tighten the lug nuts preliminarily, lower the vehicle and tighten them the rest of way. Then you want to torque the lug nuts in a crossing pattern to 100 foot pounds.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com. Your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free call us toll-free 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet.
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Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years!
Before you lift and support the vehicle, loosen the lug nuts with the wheel on the ground. Use a 21mm socket and a breaker bar. Lift and support the vehicle. Lug nuts loose. You can use the 21mm socket with just your hand. Finish removing the lug nuts. Remove the wheel, place it aside.
Replace the outer tire rod ends. Turn the whole hub assembly out so you can reach it. Start by removing this cotter pin. Use needle nose pliers, or side cutters. This one's pretty rusty. I'm going to grab onto it, and get the needle nose pliers in there. Trying to pry it. Pry it against the knuckle, there we go. Before you remove this, you will have to have the car aligned. I'll show you that I will mark this with some tape. Some people like to count the turns that it comes off. I'm just going to put some tape near the lock nut and mark it and thread it on in generally the same measurement or location so it will be close, but it will need to be aligned afterwards. Spray the lower castle nut with some rust penetrate before I try to remove it. It's pretty rusty. Also let's spray some up here on the lock nut to let that set. I'm going to come back to it. It should be ready to go.
I'll take an 18mm wrench and loosen the castle nut. Leave this nut on here for now, but fairly loose because I want to have the entire end captured in the end of the knuckle here so it doesn't try to turn while I undo the lock nut. I'm going to loosen this lock nut or jam nut ever so slightly because afterwards I'm going to take some masking tape and mark where it was so I don't want to thread it all the way back out. I just want to loosen enough so that I can get this tire rod end off. It's a 22mm. Just give it one more turn. So that should be just loose enough to get this outer tire rod off.
I'm going to take some masking tape and just mark where it was in case it moves. I'm just going to wipe off some of rust penetrate oil so the tape will stick. Take some masking tape and just mark where it was. That also keeps the nut from spinning out any further and will keep me in the general area of where it was. We'll remove the castle nut the rest of the way off.
It's pretty rusty, so you use the 18mm to get it off. Ball joint has a taper and it sits into the knuckle here. That's what makes it really tight. You can hit this with a hammer to try to break it free. You have to be very careful, as this knuckle is fragile. You could break the knuckle. It's better to use the ball joint removal tool, or tire rod end removal tool. I'm going to slide this underneath the tire rod end. I may need to turn it a little bit off it' seat. Use the appropriate sized wrench for your ball joint tool and thread it down and this will push the ball joint out of the knuckle. They tend to snap out like that. I was trying to hold the tool so I didn't drop it, but it’s okay. This will come right out with it loose. Tire end will thread right off. Now, you could try to count this if you didn't mark where this was or you moved it. I like putting the tape there, and just thread right off and there it is.
Here's our old tire rod end we pulled for our vehicle. This is our new one from 1AAuto.com. See how they're similar in design? They do have the same threads. The one from 1A Auto comes with a new castle nut. It also comes with a new cotter pin, and if you need a new lock nut, it comes with a new one. It should thread right into place and make our steering nice and tight again.
I'm going to take our new castle nut off. Put that aside. Just start by threading on the new tire rod end. I'm actually going to put it just about where the old one was. It was like that. Clean the grease off that's in here. Put your new tire rod in. Put it right into place. Sometimes you've got to push the ball joint a bit to line it up. Just like that.
Install our new castle nut. Thread the lock nut down. Just tighten it up nice. Use a little razor blade just to get our tape off. Use our 18mm again, and tighten the castle nut. Try and get it nice and tight and line it up with the hole for the cotter pin. Install our new cotter pin. Take needle nose pliers, turn it and bend it over. Tire rod end is replaced.
We reinstall our wheel, and we'll torque the lug nuts. Just going to use the socket to get these lug nuts as tight as you can by hand and torque the wheel afterwards once it's on the ground. Torque on the lug nuts is 73 to 86. I torque these to 80. Cross pattern. Job is complete.
Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.
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