Replaces
Part Details
Our steering and suspension components are pre-greased and sealed for long life and do not require the extra maintenance typically required by greaseable versions.
Item Condition:
New
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WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Hi, I'm Don from 1AAuto, I hope this how-to video helps you out, and the next time you need a part for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we show you how to replace a sway bar link on this 2003 Nissan Altima. It's the same process on these Altimas from 2002 to 2006. We show you how to replace the passenger side sway bar link, but it's the same process on the driver's side. The items you'll need for this is a new sway bar link from 1AAuto.com, flat blade screwdriver; 17mm, 19mm, and 21mm sockets and ratchet with a breaker bar or a piece of pipe for some extra leverage; a 19mm wrench, a hammer, jack and jack stands, and depending on the condition of your vehicle you may also need a torch. Start off by removing your wheel. If you don't have air-powered tools, you're going to want to loosen the lug nuts while the vehicle's on the ground, then jack it up and remove them the rest of the way. You'll want to douse the studs on the end of the links in penetrating oil. There's a 17mm nut to remove there, and then another 17mm nut right down here.
Put a 19mm wrench on the back, and then using your 17mm socket and ratchet and a piece of pipe or a breaker bar for some extra leverage, you want to just try to break that bolt free and remove it. Because of the condition of our bolt, however, we're forced to use a torch to heat it up so that we can remove it, but once it's heated up, we can remove it with the 19mm wrench and the 17mm socket. Then on this lower bolt, same thing, use a 19mm wrench in the middle there, and then use your 17mm socket and the breaker bar or piece of pipe. Again we have no luck with it and have to use a torch. Again, once it's heated up, it comes right out. Once those nuts are removed, that sway bar will pull right off. You can see in the back is the old sway bar link, and in the front is the new one from 1AAuto. You can see it's identical, and it will mount exactly the same. Feed your sway bar link up and into place and push those studs through those holes. Twist on the 19mm nuts that came with your sway bar. Then tighten both of those up until they're nice and firm. Replace your wheel, hubcap, and lug nuts. Tighten the lug nuts preliminarily, lower the vehicle, and tighten them the rest of the way. Then you want to torque the lug nuts in a crossing pattern to 100 foot pounds.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the internet and in person.
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Hi, I’m Mike from 1A Auto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years!
Where you lift and support the vehicle, loosen the lug nuts with the wheel on the ground. Use a 21 mm socket and a breaker bar. Lift and support the vehicle. With the lug nuts loose, you can use the 21mm socket with just your hand. Finish removing the lug nuts, remove the wheel, and place it aside.
When replacing the sway bar links on the suspension, just keep an eye on left and right, and up and down orientation. These will only fit one way. Otherwise, you're going to struggle trying to get it to fit. This one matches up pretty well on this side. So this goes on the driver's side and the curves match the original part, and we'll put it in roughly the same place. These are ball joints on the end of this, so you can move them once they're installed, but, since this is pretty close, this is the one that's going to be for the driver's side.
Spray the upper sway bar link nut with some rust penetrant, and also spray the backside of the nut on the sway bar. You can use an 18mm wrench to counterhold. There is a hex head on the back of this sway bar link, so I want to counter hold it. And use an 18mm socket and a breaker bar. So you kind of hold it this way, pull it down, break it free.
With it broken free, I'll switch to a ratchet. Right, we should push out on the backside. I just have to work it out a little bit. It does have a ball joint. It will pivot. You can just pop it out. So that's loose now. I'm going to work on the bottom side. So, counter hold this with an 18 mm wrench and then use the 18 mm socket and breaker bar to get this in place. And use it to break it free. Go up. It's fairly loose when you use a ratchet. To keep the upper part of the sway bar link from bouncing around, I'm just going to throw the nut on it, just finger tight. Continue working on the bottom and do the top one, and remove the sway bar link.
This is the old sway bar link we pulled from our vehicle, and our new one from 1aauto.com. You can see they are very similar in design. Same curvature and same style with the counterhold points here so you can tighten them. It comes with new nuts so, if your sway bar links are broken or worn out, get these new ones from 1A Auto, and we'll get you going down the road.
Slide our new sway bar link up into place. Again, make sure you've double checked your right, left, and up and down orientation. You need to bend them a little bit to get them to go in. It's perfectly all right. Sometimes you need to just grab the ball joint in and just push it down. Capture the nuts in here by hand. The nuts on the backside of these to counter hold them are 16 mm. Put this in here. It's easier from this side. Use an 18mm socket and get these snug before we torque them. Do the same for the bottom.
The clearance to get to this lower sway bar nut with this control arm is a little tight. I kind of had to flex the sway bar a bit with the breaker bar to slide the torque wrench in here, but it's in here. I can get it out when I'm done. The torque on these is 59 to 72 foot-pounds. So we're going to do it at 65. So I'm going to counter hold this with my 16 mm wrench. I've got my torque wrench set to 65. Tighten this up, and there it is. And use that breaker bar just under the sway bar here. I'm just going to pry it a little bit and work that out of there. I'll do the top nuts. So, again, counterhold it with the torque wrench. Sway bar link is installed and torqued.
We reinstall our wheel, and we'll torque the lug nuts. I'm just going to use the socket to get these lug nuts as tight as I can by hand. We can torque the wheel afterwards once it's on the ground. The torque on the lug nuts is 73 to 86. I've torqued these to 80 in a cross pattern. The job is complete.
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