TRQ CV (constant velocity) drive axles are manufactured using premium raw materials designed to restore original performance. TRQ CV drive axles are new, so there is no core charge with your TRQ purchase. TRQ-designed drive axles utilize neoprene boots, moly grease, stainless steel clamps, and heat-treated ball tracks to ensure extended service life. Each TRQ axle is application-specific so each spline and thread will mate properly for a seamless fit. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
100% New: Manufactured to tighter tolerances for extended service life
Neoprene Boots: Improved durability compared to stock material
Moly Greased: Specifically-designed grease shield to reduce premature wear
Application Specific Design: No modification
CV axles are designed to transmit the power from your vehicle's drivetrain to the wheels while being able to flex and pivot to the demands of the steering and suspension systems. If your vehicle is making clicking noises at lower speeds or when making turns, it may be time to replace your CV axles with our 100% brand new assemblies.
Item Condition:New
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Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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How to Replace CV Axle Shaft 2000-08 Nissan Maxima
Created on:
Tools used
14mm Wrench
A Piece of Pipe (for leverage)
Torque Wrench
15mm Socket
Pry Bar
Jack Stands
10mm Allen Wrench
21mm Socket
Gear Oil
32mm Socket
Drain Pan
Ratchet
Floor Jack
Assistant
Needle nose pliers
1/2 Inch Breaker Bar
1/2 Inch Impact Gun
22mm Socket
1. Removing the Wheel
Loosen the lug nuts with the vehicle on the ground
Raise the vehicle with a floor jack
Secure the vehicle on jack stands
Remove the lug nuts
Pull off the wheel
2. Removing the Axle from the Hub
Twist the cotter pin out of the axle
Remove the 32mm hub nut
Make sure the axle moves freely in the hub
If the axle is seized, thread the hub nut on, and strike the axle with a hammer to loosen it
3. Pulling Aside the Stabilizer Link
Hold the lower stabilizer link stud with a 14mm wrench
Remove the lower 15mm nut from the stabilizer link
Push the stabilizer link out of the lower control arm
4. Pulling Aside the Lower Control Arm
Remove the six 22mm bolts from the lower control arm
Pull the control arm down
5. Removing the Axle Shaft
Push the axle out of the hub
Have a drain pan ready
Separate the axle from the transmission with a pry bar
6. Installing the New Axle
Push the axle into place at the transmission
Push the axle into the wheel hub
7. Reinstalling the Control Arm
Raise the control arm into place
Start the six 22mm bolts into the control arm
Tighten the 22mm bolts to 120 foot-pounds of torque
8. Reinstalling the Stabilizer Link
Push the stabilizer link into place
Hold the lower stabilizer link stud with a 14mm wrench
Fasten the lower 15mm nut onto the stabilizer link
9. Fastening the Axle
Install the 32mm hub nut
Have an assistant press the brake pedal
Tighten the hub nut to 217 foot-pounds
Insert the cotter pin into the axle
10. Refilling the Transmission Fluid
Have a drain pan ready
Remove the drain plug from the transmission with a 10mm Allen wrench
Fill the transmission, using a hose, until fluid begins to drip out
Insert the drain plug
11. Reattaching the Wheel
Slide the wheel into place
Start the lug nuts by hand
Tighten the lug nuts preliminarily
Lower the vehicle to the ground
Tighten the lug nuts to 100 foot-pounds in a crossing or star pattern
Have your vehicle professionally aligned
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video we're going to show you how to replace the left hand axle on this 2003 Nissan Maxima. This is a manual transmission car, but the procedure for automatic transmission is basically the same. Although, at the end, where we refill the manual transmission case you'll want to refill your automatic transmission. That procedure is different. You'll need a new axle from 1A Auto; jack and jack stands; and 15, 21, 22, and 32 mm sockets. The 32 mm is starred there because that is one that doesn't come in many sets. You'll probably have to buy that special. You'll need a 14 mm wrench; ratchet; and you'll need a breaker bar or a pie for some extra leverage; a pry bar; catch pan; torque wrench; gear oil, GL-4 rated for the 6-speed in this car; piece of tube or hose to help you fill it; and a 10 mm Hex or Allen wrench. Again, the last few things are for refilling the manual transmission. If you have an automatic transmission, that is a different procedure. If you have an automatic transmission, the basic procedure of replacing the axle is the same, but obviously filling an automatic transmission is a little different.
I start out by removing the front tire. If you don't have air impact tools, start with the tire on the ground, loosen the lug nuts, then raise and secure the vehicle with jack stands, remove the lug nuts the rest of the way, and remove the wheel and tire.
I'm taking this cotter pin out of the axle shaft. It's basically just a procedure of straightening out the ends of the cotter pin and pulling it back through with a pair of pliers. With my 32mm socket, zap off the axle nut. Most likely you're going to need an impact gun for this. While Don's working on that, here's a little commentary here. We did try to get this nut off with a breaker bar and a piece of pipe. They are tightened at 217 foot pounds and this one did not come off using that method. Most likely you're going to have to use an impact wrench. I make sure that the axle isn't seized inside the hub so I just push it through and it's pushing through with no problem. If you find any resistance, you can screw your nut back on just a little bit and give it a couple of whacks with a hammer and that should loosen it up.
I'm going to remove the lower stabilizer link nut. Use a 15mm wrench, and counter hold the opposite side with a 14mm wrench. On this side you put the wrench right in between the boot here and the control arm. You can see Don's got that bolt loosened up and fast forward here as he removes it. I got the nut off and I'm just going to push the stabilizer rod out of the lower control arm.
I'm removing these four front lower control arm bolts. They're 22mm. Then, I'll proceed to the back and remove these two 22mm bolts. Use a breaker bar and pipe for extra leverage. As you can see, it takes quite a bit of leverage. You'll need your ratchet and a pipe or your breaker bar and a pipe if you have to use hand tools. You can see here, just to make the video go a little quicker and make things go quicker we just go over to the impact wrench and pull the rest of them out. I got the control arm down, nut off, and I'm going to pull the joint and push it through and out the front. I've got a drain pan down underneath where I'm going to pop the axle out of the transmission because some fluid could come out. Then, I'm going to put a pry bar in between the transmission case and the axle, and pry, and it pops right out.
For reinstallation, I'm just putting it back into place and turning it a little bit and twisting it to find the spot. With it seated all the way in, put the other side into the wheel hub and then you can push it in from the outside.
I'm installing the bolts for the lower control arm. I'm torquing these six other, lower control arm bolts that go to the chassis to 120 foot pounds.
Use a little fast forward here as we put the stabilizer back in place. Just put it back into the control arm and use the 14mm wrench to hold the shaft as you tighten it up and get it nice and tight. Install the center hub nut and tighten it preliminarily. I've got Mike in the car holding the brake pedal down while we torque to 217 foot pounds. I'm putting the cotter pin back in.
I'm going to check the fluid level in the manual transmission and we're going to locate the filler and it's right up here. It's a 10 mm Allen and I'm going to use a 3/8 inch drive ratchet and break it free. I'm using a hose to fill the transmission back up with the transmission fluid. Once you see the drips coming out you'll know it's to the bottom of the filler plug level and it's full.
Make sure you put your transmission fill plug back in and then you can put your wheel and tire back on. Hand thread the lug nuts first, tighten them preliminarily, and then torque them to 100 foot pounds. Then make sure you get your vehicle aligned.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
CSA82193
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Customer Q&A
What physical identification determines the requirement for limited slip/ non limited slip differential?August 18, 2018
Dan H
10
Since all physical indicators are internal to the differential and the VIN, I recommend you contact your local Nissan or Infiniti dealership to find out. If you give them the VIN they should be able to tell you!
August 20, 2018
T I
Customer service
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