Replaces
Part Details
TRQ fully loaded shocks and struts are manufactured using premium raw materials and calibrated to restore original ride comfort. TRQ shocks are fully loaded featuring a pre-loaded bearing plate, upper and lower spring isolator, upper spring seat, coil spring, boot kit, and premium strut. TRQ recommends replacing your shocks or struts in pairs to ensure even wear of components and improved ride comfort. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Replacing struts used to require specialized tools to compress, remove, and transfer the old spring and mount. Our Pre-assembled, complete strut & spring assemblies come with all new parts and make the job much quicker and easier for the do-it-yourself mechanic.
Strut & spring assembly contains:
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Chromium (Hexavalent Compounds), which is known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Created on:
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to remove and reinstall a front strut. We're going to show you the right front strut, and the left front strut is the same procedure. We do recommend you always replace struts in pairs. This is on a 2003 Maxima. Pretty much, it's the same procedure for any Maxima or even Altima, Infiniti I30; it's the same procedure. There may be some minor differences in how the ABS sensors and cables attach to this. Here's what you'll need to complete this job. You'll need a set of new struts from 1Aauto.com. We sell a nice set of loaded struts with the spring and everything; it makes the job fairly easy, actually. You'll need jack and jack stands; and 14, 19, and 21 mm sockets. You'll need a ratchet and you'll also need a breaker bar and maybe even a pipe for some extra leverage; a screwdriver; pliers; hammer; and a torque wrench.
We'll start off by removing the wheel. You're going to want a 21 mm socket and ratchet or a breaker bar or your tire iron, and you'll probably want to start with the wheel on the ground. Loosen the lug nuts. Then raise and secure the vehicle with jack stands, and then remove the wheel and the tire.
I'm going to remove the 19 mm bolt with a 21 mm nut. There are two of them at the bottom of the strut. You can always use a pipe over your breaker bar to give you extra leverage. Now that we've shown you how to get them out by hand, we're just going to use the impact wrench to zip them off a little quicker. Now, remove the bolts. Notice that the suspension is not supported; the vehicle is supported on the body and not the suspension.
We're going to push the ABS sensor out of the back, and we're going to slide the ABS sensor up on the other side. Take needle nose pliers, and remove the clip for the brake line. Push that down, and slide it out. We'll pry the strut from the spindle and set it off to the side.
There are three strut mount nuts. They're 14 mm. penetrating oil helps loosen them. I'm going to fast-forward, and you can see Don's able to get the nuts off by hand first, and then he just resorts to the impact wrench just to, again, speed things up a little bit. The third one's about to come out. I'm supporting the strut from below so it doesn't fall. Take a strut out.
I'm aligning the top of the strut mount. The F is going to face forward, and you can do that with a screwdriver, and the same way we took it out, it's going to go back in. I'm supporting the strut from below with my left hand and feeding it up through the three holes, and I'm just starting to feed the nuts on. Now, Don's just going to put the new nuts on, and you'll notice that we actually put the same strut back in. There was nothing wrong with the strut. We just replaced the top strut mount. Before we tighten the nuts up top, we're going to make sure that we get our bolts down here on the spindle. Fast-forward as we put both those nuts on and then tighten them preliminarily. We torque the upper strut mount nuts to 25 foot-pounds. I'm tightening up the lower strut nuts to 110 foot-pounds.
Slide the ABS sensor on the left side back into place and on the right side. Now, I'm going to be pulling the brake line through and then up, and once that's seated, I'm putting the clip back on from the back. Tap it. It might require a little bit of tapping to fully seat it. Just put the wheel and tire back on. Tighten the lug nuts preliminarily. Then put it down on the ground and torque the lug nuts to 100 foot-pounds and definitely recommended that you get a front end alignment after this repair.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out and the next time you need a part for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you rear strut replacement on this 2003 Nissan Maxima. Procedure's basically the same for any 2000-2003 Maxima as well as the Infinity I30. We're going to show you the right hand side. The left hand side is basically the same procedure. You'll need new struts, a pair of new struts from 1AAuto.com. We always recommend doing these in pairs. A jack and jack stand, 17 and 21 mm sockets with your ratchet and you'll either probably need a breaker bar or a pipe for some extra leverage. You'll need a 14 mm socket with a smaller 1/4 in drive ratchet, couple of the bolts are hard to get to, kind of tight, and then you'll also want a flat blade screw driver.
Starting in the trunk, take the trunk mat, flip it over, get it out of your way, as well as the spare tire cover. We've got one connector there. Using a flat blade screwdriver, you're going to find the indent, which happens to be right there. Pry it. What should happen is that it will lift out and come out. Next, you're going to see a trim piece around the rear carpet area and if you can just see the carpet pads and pull it out of the way, you'll find your nuts for the top of your strut mount.
The first one that you can see pretty easily comes out easily with a 14 mm socket and a 3/8 ratchet. The second one, the one that's not so easy to see or get to, the best bet is a 14 mm socket again, but you want a 1/4 drive ratchet, which is a much smaller length ratchet and you can see Don contorting himself into the trunk and getting to it there. Okay, you'll want to remove the rear wheel. If you don't have the benefit of air tools, you'll probably want to loosen the lug nuts while the vehicle's on the ground, then jack up and then secure the vehicle and jack stands. Remove the lug nuts, which are 21 mm and remove the wheel and tire.
Using a 17 mm socket, 1/2 in breaker bar, remove the lower strut bolt and using our pipe over our handle, get a little extra leverage and apply smooth pressure. While we're removing the screw, we want to make a note of the placement of the bottom of the coil spring. It's facing the front of the car. Okay, just fast forward as Don takes that bolt the rest of the way out. Sometimes, kind of pulling up or down on the suspension while you're pulling this bolt out helps get it out a little quicker. Important to note while that bolt is coming out, the body of the car is supported and the rear suspension is hanging free.
We've got the old strut, torn up boot. The exact same replacement part from 1A Auto, new boot, new mounting hardware, and new strut mount. Should go in exactly the way as the old one came out. We've got the new strut ready to go in. Make sure you remove the nuts and remember your placement on the bottom coil, facing the front of the car. Sometimes as you find it necessary, apply pressure the lower control arm. Okay and we'll speed up while Don's putting that bolt in and as you saw I just came in there, pulled down on the suspension, made it a little easier for Don to be able to wind up that lower bolt hole. You want to torque to 75 foot pounds.
Okay and put the top bolts in. You see Don just folds both seats down in the back and can reach right in and get that first bolt in nice and easy. The second bolt though is a more of a challenge. You can see the only way to really do it is get right in the trunk again and use your left hand, curl it in there and start it on and then use your 1/4 in drive and 14 mm socket and just tighten it up as best you can. The torque specs on these are probably about 20-25 foot pounds. As long as you get it in there and basically as tight as you can with that 1/4 in drive ratchet, you should be all set.
Okay, and just fast forward. Make sure you put the trim back in place and then the one clip that fastens in place to hold it. Keeping the fast forward going here. Put your tire back in place, start the lug nuts by hand, make sure they don't cross thread, then tighten them up preliminarily. With the vehicle back on the ground, tighten or torque your lug nuts to a hundred foot pounds and use a star pattern to tighten them.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll free 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
