TRQ suspension kits are manufactured using premium raw materials and coatings for extended service life. Each TRQ suspension component is designed to be a direct, maintenance-free replacement to the stock unit. To extend the life of your steering and suspension components, TRQ recommends replacing components in pairs, sets, or kits. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Application Specific Design: No modifications necessary
Anti-Corrosion Coated: Enhanced surface life
Pre-greased: No additional maintenance required
Kitted for Restored Performance: Improved road-feel and handling
Our steering and suspension components are pre-greased and sealed for long life and do not require the extra maintenance typically required by greaseable versions.
Item Condition:New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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How to Replace Rear Upper Trailing Arms 1997-2004 Nissan Pathfinder
Created on:
Tools used
Socket Extensions
Torque Wrench
14mm Socket
Hammer
17mm Wrench
Rust Penetrant
Pry Bar
Jack Stands
19mm Wrench
19mm Socket
21mm Socket
Paper Towels
Ratchet
Floor Jack
Cloth Rags
1/2 Inch Breaker Bar
1. Removing the Wheel
Pry off the center cap with a flat blade screwdriver
Loosen the 21mm lug nuts and wheel lock with the vehicle on the ground
Raise the vehicle with a floor jack
Secure the vehicle on jack stands
Remove the lug nuts
Pull off the wheel
2. Removing the Upper Control Arm
Remove the 14mm bolts from the stabilizer link bracket
Move the stabilizer link over to reach the rear trailing arm bolt
Raise a jack underneath the differential
Remove the bolts with as 19mm socket, breaker bar, and 17mm wrench
Tap out the bolt with a hammer if needed
Remove the trailer arm
3. Installing the Upper Control Arm
Insert the upper control arm into place
Press the bolts into place, tapping with a hammer if needed
Tighten the nuts with a 19mm socket, breaker bar, and 17mm wrench
Torque the bolts to 105 foot-pounds
Lower the jack from the differential
Insert the stabilizer link into place
Tighten the 14mm bolts to the stabilizer link bracket
4. Reattaching the Wheel
Slide the wheel into place
Start the lug nuts by hand
Tighten the lug nuts preliminarily
Lower the vehicle to the ground
Tighten the lug nuts to 105 foot-pounds in a crossing or star pattern
Reattach the center cap
Hi, I’m Mike from 1A Auto. We’ve been selling auto parts for over 30 years!
What's up guys? Here we have a rear upper control arm. Sometimes they call it a link. Sometimes they call it a trailing arm. We're going to be installing it on this 2000 Nissan Pathfinder. Generally what happens on these, these bushings will wear out and it's better to just replace the whole arm than try to replace these bushings. So if you need control arms for your vehicle or any other suspension parts check out 1aauto.com.
Whenever you're doing any suspension repair, whether you're replacing components or removing suspension components and reinstalling them, it's a good idea to go to a local place that does alignments and have it at least checked, if not performed. That way it'll prevent your tires from wearing prematurely. We're going to pull the tire off.
On this vehicle you don't have to pull the wheel to do this job, but it makes it easier to see and it's easier to do. Before I take the lug nuts off, you can take the lug nuts off with this cap on. I just like to take the cap off, so we don't scratch it. You can get in underneath the cap and pull, or you can use a pry bar and a little rag and pop it off just like that. Then I'm going to use a 21 millimeter socket and a breaker bar. I'm going to break all these lug nuts loose. I'm just going to crack them free. I don't want to take them off completely.
This vehicle has a wheel lock, so I'll put that on the lock, put the key on the lock, and then loosen that one as well. Then I can raise and support the vehicle. I'll take the lug nuts off. Now we're going to take the tire off.
Here's where the upper link is located on the passenger side. It's right in front of the exhaust system in between that and the rear spring. Before I start taking the bolts out, I want to spray the nuts down with some rust penetrant. They're a little bit rusty, and this will help in the removal procedure. We're going to take this link out of the way because we need to access this bolt right here. We'll take these two 14 millimeter bolts out. We use a 14 millimeter socket and a ratchet. These are a little bit tight in there. We're going to spray a little less penetrant on these.
These bolts were really rusty. It might not do too much because it's probably going to be hard for the rust penetrant to go up, but a little bit should help. I'm just going to work the rust penetrant back and forth, just tighten it a little bit, and loosen it again. Get that bolt out, and we'll do the same for the other one. This one's really tight. Tighten it up again. Work some of that rust penetrant. Then this is bolt came.
Now we're going to remove this link and just push it out of our way. That's enough, as long as we can access that bolt. I'm going to support the rear differential with a screw jack. You could use a jack and jack stands. That's just going to prevent the rear differential from twisting or doing any movements when we take this arm out. You want to make sure when you're replacing any of these arms whether it be the upper arm or the lower arm that you only do one at a time. You don't want to take them all out and then have to put them in because the differential is going to do all sorts of crazy stuff. It's just better to do one at a time.
All right, disconnect this bolt. I'm going to use a 17 millimeter wrench on this side, and I'm going to use a 19 millimeter socket on this side with a breaker bar. I'm going to loosen it up. It's really tight. Now I'm going to take this one and break this one free. Now I'm going to put a ratchet on the socket and take this nut off. Then keep in mind when you're doing this on the driver's side, it will be a similar procedure except the bolts will be backwards, and you'll have to take your wrench and stick it in over the gas tank right in there, and then you will use the ratchet on the outside to get that nut off.
I'm going to use a hammer to take these bolts out. I lowered down the differential just a little bit, and now I'm going to pull this bolt out and twist it. Pull it out. Now it's loose. I can pull this bolt out. I can pull the control arm out. This is our old upper control arm. This is our new upper control arm from 1aauto.com. The shapes are the same. The positions for the mounting holes are the same. This new one has a bracket that is for other applications, but it's not going to get in the way of anything. These bushings, although they're not that worn out, there is some dry rot in the bushing so these would be on their way out fairly soon. Get yours at 1aauto.com and you'll be ready to rock and roll.
All right, reinstall this upper control arm. Slide this part into the differential first. Slide this bolt through that. I'm going to push it up into the bracket on the frame of the car. I'm going to have a helper give me a hand getting this bolt lined up. We're going to take a pry bar. I'm going to pry it right here, and then I'm going to be up here with the bolt, and same with the little pry bar in the hole trying to get it to line up. We got the bolt that we started. I'm going to see if I can thread it in.
Generally, the threads will suck the bolts in. I'm just going to line this up, give it some tap with the hand, still lining it up on the back side with a little pry bar. Now I got the bolts all the way in. To get these bolts in, we did have a little bit of trouble, but we were able to get them in with the pry bar adjusting the axle. We did lower the rear differential. That gave us a little more room to pry them in. We did get them in.
Now I'm going to install the nuts on the backside. Install this nut down here. I'm going to use my 19 millimeter socket and a ratchet. I'm going to snug these up in a 17 millimeter wrench on the bolt side. Now I'm going to torque these with the torque wrench. We actually sell these torque wrenches at 1aauto.com. I'm going to torque these to 105 foot-pounds.
Now we can lower the differential. Just take our jack out of the way. Now we're going to reinstall this sway bar link bracket. Install the 14 millimeter bolts that hold this on. Just get those lined up and get them started. We're going to snug these up with our 14 millimeter socket and a ratchet. Get these snug. It's good. Snug this one up.
I'm going to install our tire. Line that up with the lugs. Put the nuts on. Next we're going to put the wheel lock in. We install it in the key and use the socket. Spin that down. We can drop the vehicle down and torque them. All right, now I'm going to torque them with the torque wrench. I'm using a 21 millimeter socket and I'm going to torque them to a 105 foot-pounds and I'm going to do it in a star pattern or a cross pattern. That's going to torque the wheel down evenly. I'll pull this wheel lock off and we'll install the center cap. Just line it up. Just give it a little tap.
Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.
PSA56529
In Stock
Product Reviews
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4.48/ 5.023
23 reviews
5 Stars
4 Stars
3 Stars
2 Stars
1 Star
15
5
2
1
0
Bolts and nuts
Leon
December 13, 2017
They look solid everything looks correct I just need to wait for the hardware because we know lower arms votes tend to cease and we may have to strip them or cut them off
Fast work, goods as promised
karen
April 18, 2018
Our live-in "mechanic" was 100% pleased with the suspension kit, and we were pleased with the good price, post-fix performance, and lickety-split delivery. 1A Auto is A1 in our book!
suspension
Raymond
September 13, 2018
received my new parts and they fit perfectly, went for test and they work like if my 14 years old vehicle was new.
Fixing Pathfinder Wobble !!
O
October 11, 2018
Little slow getting here, but well worth it. Good quality parts nice fit. Rubber bushings are very sturdy. Makes job easy. Cheers
Better Ride with easy install
Leo
October 14, 2019
This product was easy to install. However, it was lacking a connection spot for one of the hoses/lines. It did make a big difference in the ride. Definitely would recommend to others experiencing death-wobble on their Pathy.
Works Perfect, exceptional fit and finish
P
October 21, 2019
The part set completely cured the "death wobble" on my 98 Nissan pathfinder. Parts are of high quality and great finish. Exact fit! Installation video from 1a auto was spot on and was used to get the tool list and install/removal process. Thank you 1A Auto, great job! From a very satisfied customer
Control arms
J
April 4, 2020
Right parts. Right price. If you could bundle correct nuts and bolts with parts like this that would be great. Remove bolts with 12 point socket on a 1/2" drive and removal time is a breeze.
rear suspension parts
D
May 4, 2020
items came before promised date and are very nice quality
Suspension
Cesar
November 27, 2020
They are okay only installer sway bar links so far so not sure how lower control arms are or upper
All was great
Salvador
December 19, 2020
I gave a 4 stars you should either provide all bolts for replacement or sell kit. So far so good. You should replace bolts if you live in winter weather rusty bolts
Great deal!
Christy
January 30, 2021
Parts are perfect, shipped quick. Would definitely buy from here again.
NISSAN PATHFINDER REAR UPPER AND LOWER TRAILING ARMS ARMS
FRANK
June 3, 2021
THEY ARRIVED ON TIME , PACKED PROFESSIONALY, LOOKED LIKE HIGH QUAILY PRODUCTS, HAD THEM PROFESSIONALY INSTALLED. VERY SATISFIED WITH THE RESULTS CORRECTED MY NISSAN WOBBLE.
Infinity QX4 Death Wobble Solved
Mark
September 8, 2021
It definitely solved the QX4/Nissan pathfinder death wobble. The parts showed up on time as promised.My mechanic stated they were of good quality and replaced the OEM parts just fine with no issues at all.
Just what I needed
Zachary
October 13, 2021
Eliminated the issue I was having (sudden swerve after letting of the accelerator). My 2000 Pathfinder rides smooth now
Takes care of Pathfinder/QX4 death wobble
Cody
October 17, 2021
My rear trailing arms were the OEM arms and after 21 years of use in NC they werent too rusty, yet I couldnt take them off myself. I had an impact wrench and a large breaker bar and couldnt get the bolts loose. I called a local shop and they were able to install the arms in a couple hours. They said the arms were very easy to install but they did have to cut some of the bolts holding the arms in. If youre planning to do the job yourself be prepared with a Diablo blade to cut those bolts. Ride is significantly improved, especially over bumpy roads. They only have 100 miles on them so I assume the ride will slightly improve once the rubber breaks in.
Gregory
April 13, 2022
It worked fine and the price you cant beat
OK product. Did not have required tabs, so not a "direct replacement"
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Jeff
July 31, 2022
Decent set. Well built, but not a complicated part. A bit of a knuckle-breaker to install under the car, but that is just because the bolts are high-torque on a 26 year old car in my case. My reason for low ranking is that the tabs on the longer link were NOT compatible with my 96 Pathfinder older link. The new part did not have the forward (one hole) tab that is the base for a line-holder mount. So I had to bust out old sparky and saw the tab off the old one, cut the crooked tab off of the new one and weld on. Check your old part (visible just by looking under the frame rail). If you have 2 mount tabs like my old one below, this is not a direct replacement.
Francis
February 9, 2023
The parts were an exact fit and the death wobble is gone! Thanks 1A Auto...
Owner
Geo
March 17, 2023
The edge of the front shocks that seats at he bottom didnt fit my pathfinder 2001 SE. I had to smash it with a hammer a little bit to make it fit. Overall is great
Very good product
Ronald
May 2, 2023
The parts looked well made and fit perfectly. Well worth buying if you need to replace these items and I would recommend these parts.
Great value!
Emilio
June 27, 2023
This is the way to go when repairing a sloppy rear suspension. I'm starting to realize that TRQ products are pretty good. I'm on my 3rd TRQ brand part. Fuel pump, suspension kit, and O2 sensor.
Good price for great kit!
Troy
August 23, 2023
Everything fit like a charm. Great price for the whole kit. Saved 5k doing it myself versus having the dealership do it.
Great Product at a Great Price
Patrick
January 22, 2024
Great kit! Worked well and was a great price. Fast shipping helped get it back on the road quickly.
Customer Q&A
Would they work on 2002 qx4?December 21, 2021
Steve H
10
This kit is listed to fit 2002 Infiniti QX4 models equipped with Four Wheel Drive.
December 21, 2021
Jessica D
2003 Nissan Pathfinder Rear 6 Piece Suspension Kit TRQ PSA56529 What are the torque specs for all 6 pieces?May 2, 2022
Steven P
10
Yes, this part will fit your vehicle. At this time we do not have all of the torque specifications for your vehicle.
May 2, 2022
Emma F
10
Torque to 105 ft lbs with the suspension loaded. In other words, get them installed, snug them up real tight, then put the car back down on the ground, then torque them to 105 ft lbs.
May 2, 2022
R Y
Will it fit 1998 nissan pathfinder?January 19, 2024
John D
10
Yes, it does fit perfectly on 1998 Nissan Pathfinder...
January 19, 2024
Alfredo G
10
Yes, this part will fit your vehicle.
January 19, 2024
Meghan R
Customer service
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