2013 Nissan Rogue Front Wheel Drive Front Passenger Side CV Axle Assembly TRQ CSA82123

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In this video we're going to be working with our 2009 Nissan Rogue. We're going to show you how to remove and replace your right front CV axle on an all-wheel drive CVT vehicle. If you like this video, please click subscribe. We have a ton more information on this and many other vehicles, and if you need this part for your car, you can follow the link down in the description over 1AAuto.com.

Here are the items you'll need for this repair: New axle from 1AAuto.com 10-32mm sockets, ratchet, socket extensions, 15-21mm wrenches, breaker bar, bungee cord, needle nose pliers, punch, hammer, striking bar, rubber mallet, drain pan, torque wrench, transmission fluid and funnel, flat blade screwdriver, jack, jack stands

Crack all of your lug nuts loose with a 21 millimeter socket and breaker bar. Raise and support your vehicle. We're using a lift to make this easier to show you what's going on, but this can easily be done at home with a jack and a jack stand. Remove the rest of your lug nuts either by hand or with the help of a 21-millimeter socket. These are kind of deep into the wheel so it helps to use a socket. Remove your wheel and tire from the vehicle.

Remove the cotter pin. Use a pair of needle nose pliers to bend it up straight, and then you can usually poke one of the teeth through the loop and just pull your pin out. Using a wrench, in our case we're using a 15, you're going to want to set this up to wedge it against the caliper and just use one of your lug nuts. Just hand tight to hold it there. You'll actually probably want to put one here to keep from damaging the threads as well. Using a 32-millimeter socket and a breaker bar, break the axle nut loose and remove it. Remove the lug nuts as well as your wrench. Using a punch, go into the center divot of the CV axle and tap the splines loose from the hub with a hammer.

Using a 19 millimeter socket, remove the caliper bracket bolts. I'm using a long handle, half-inch ratchet, but you can start off with a breaker bar if yours are really stuck. Once you have the bracket removed, secure it out of the way with a bungee cord, mechanics wire, or some zip ties. Remove your rotor.

Disconnect the ABS sensor wire holders from the bottom of the strut. Remove the nuts and bolts from the bottom of the strut plate with a 21-millimeter socket, ratchet, and wrench. In removing the second bolt, you'll likely have to wiggle the spindle in and out from the hub just to get some room to free up that bolt. You should then be able to pull the spindle out and forward, which will give you enough room to remove your CV axle.

Remove the two 13-millimeter bolts on the lock plate of the CV axle. We'll do this with a 13-millimeter socket, ratchet, and a long extension. Remove the last bolt, and we'll slide that lock plate off with it. Put a striking bar or a long punch on to the front edge of the bearing on the engine side of the CV axle support bracket. You got to just hit it pretty good with a big hammer and knock it out of its holder, and that will also pop out the joint on this side. Be sure to have a drain bucket placed under your vehicle before you start removing the CV axle. You can now remove the CV axle from the vehicle.

Here we have our old part that we removed from our vehicle and our new part from 1AAuto.com. As you can see, these parts are exactly the same, with the same splines and threads, the same joints and boots, same shaft size. We have the same center support bearing here as well as the same splines on the opposite end and the dust shield. The old one gets damaged pretty well on the way out, but that's part of the reason we're replacing it. That and this boot is completely torn.

Now you can change the boots individually, but it's a lot of work and for the cost of the parts plus your time, it's generally easier to just install a new CV axle assembly. If your vehicle has torn boots, is clicking or binding when turning, this new part from 1A Auto is going to go in direct fit just like your original equipment and fix you up right.

Reinstall the CV axle into the vehicle. Want to make sure you go through the center support bearing hole as well as the second opening for the axle. You'll then want to line up the splines into the differential. Once that's all lined up, you may want to knock the joint in with a rubber mallet. Reinstall the lock plate. Reinstall and tighten the two 13-millimeter bolts on the lock plate with a 13-millimeter socket ratchet and a long extension. Now these are only going into aluminum so don't crank them down. Just get them snug.

Reinstall the splines of the CV axle into the hub and install the new nut. Just a couple of threads to help keep everything in place. Reinstall the spindle into the strut. You're going to need to work that around a little to get everything to line up. You'll want to do one bolt first, usually the bottom is easiest, and then you should just be able to wiggle it nice and easy and get the top in.

Reinstall the 21-millimeter nuts. You can then tighten the bolts back down with a 21-millimeter socket, ratchet, and wrench. Reinstall the ABS sensor holders. Reinstall your brake rotor. Remove the hanger from the caliper. Reinstall that over the rotor. Reinstall the 19-millimeter bolts by hand for the caliper carrier bracket. You can then tighten them down with a 19-millimeter socket and ratchet.

Install your wrench the other way to brace against the brake caliper. Don't forget to install the other lug nut here to keep that wrench from damaging any threads. Use your 32-millimeter socket, and I'm going to use a breaker bar to get some leverage on this to tighten down that nut. Just pop it off and make sure if your new nut is a castle nut like ours is, that those tabs line up with the holes in the axle. Install the cotter pin. Bend it over, and remove the lug nuts and wrenches. Reinstall your wheel and tire as well as all five of your lug nuts. Now I'm just going to use a 21-millimeter socket and bring the lug nuts down as tight as I can by hand using that. With the vehicle lowered partially so just a little bit of weight is on the tires to keep them from turning, we'll torque our lug nuts to 80 foot-pounds in a cross pattern.

Now if you lost some fluid like we did, you'll want to top it off here. Use a small flat blade screwdriver to depress the tab and remove the dipstick. Always be sure to check because these vehicles came with both conventional automatic transmissions and CVT, or constantly variable transmissions, and they do take different fluids. Now I measured how much I lost, so I lost about a quarter of a quart. We'll refill that with a transmission funnel right through the fill tube. Then you'll want to check it with the same dipstick with the vehicle running in park and at operating temperature.

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