2012 Nissan Sentra Secondary Transmission Speed Sensor TRQ VSA92947

Hey, friends, it's Len here at 1A Auto. Today we're working on a 2010 Nissan Altima. We're going to be working on the speed sensor. It's going to be a very simple job. I want to be the guy that shows you how to do it. If you need any instructional videos or any parts, you can always check us out at 1AAuto.com.

So, one of our first steps is after the hood's up. You don't have to necessarily take off the plastic cowl that was here, or that's part of the bumper. Basically, what you want to do is you want to take out these two 10 millimeters. We're going to take this piece off and get it out of the way so we can see under there to get to our transmission speed sensor. So I'm going to turn these two 10 millimeter heads to the left, counterclockwise to remove them. They're both the same.

Going to grab this unit. Pick it up. Nothing special to it. Just move it out of the way. I'm just going to remove this part of the air filter housing. Couple little clips. Lifts right out. We can take a look at our air filter. If it looks dirty you'd want to replace it. This one looks okay, so I'll set this aside. So, we get this part of the air filter housing off. Now, we're going to remove the electrical connector for the mass airflow sensor. We're just going to push this little tab right here. You can use your thumb if you want, you can try to lift it. Well, push it I guess, but essentially, we'd want to lift the bottom side.

So, if you can use your thumb, try to squeeze, lift this whole sensor up. If it doesn't want to come up, you could use something like pliers if you need it. There we are. We always check our electrical connectors, make sure there's no funny colors. Same thing inside the mass airflow sensor. That looks okay in the connector area. Perfect. Next, what I like to do is I'm going to remove this right here. I'm just going to loosen up this clamp till it's almost at its end, but not completely. This is a eight millimeter, or a flathead screwdriver. You could use either. You just need it to be loose enough to get the hose off the box. So use your best judgment. I'd say that's probably fine.

I'm going to go back to using my pliers again. Going to squeeze the two side tabs on these, like that. Okay. This one. See if I can get them in here. I'm going to come from a different angle, squeezing them. Not trying to break them or anything. Little bit of a fumble. Almost. Just try to push this one down. There we are. Just push this right out of the way. Okay. Set that aside. Now we're going to use a 10 millimeter with our extension. There's a bolt down in here. Just a 10 millimeter head or you can use a Phillips-head if you need it. It's right here.

I'm going to remove that. Turning it counterclockwise, of course. There's our bolt. Now, I'm going to try to take the box and I'm going to try to lift straight up to remove this from its little holding area. I'm going to grab this hose, move it away. Here we are. We've got this off. Now what we can do is we can take a peek at our mass airflow sensor in there. Make sure it doesn't look black or gunked up or dirty. If it is, you can clean it with a special cleaner or you can go ahead and replace it with a couple Phillips-head screws right here. Should just pop right out.

So, we'll set this aside. Right down in here's where our sensor is. It's going to be hard to see. It's right down in there. I'll try to grab something so I can point at it better and you can get a better view. So, right down here is the sensor that we're going to be replacing. There's the wiring harness for it. There's a little push button right here. So, I'm going to try to get my hand in here. I'm going to try to squeeze that tab down and I'm going to pull that off. And then we're going to remove this 10 millimeter head bolt right here. Then we'll just grab a hold of the sensor, wiggle it around and should slide right out.

All right. So, I'm pushing in on the little tab. Now I'm going to try to force this off. There we are. I'll just grab the wiring harness. Check it like always, make sure there's no funny colors. I don't know if you can see it with the camera, but I can see it with my eyes. It's good. I'll set it aside. I'm going to go back to using my 10 millimeter without the long extension.

I'm going to take out that one bolt that's holding it in. Or at least that's my plan. Turning to the left, counterclockwise. Okay. I'm just going to get my hand in here. If I had a shorter ratchet on hand, I would use that, of course. This is a little overkill. There's our 10 millimeter head bolt. Grab our sensor, wiggle it around. If it doesn't want to come up, you could try using something as simple as a pry bar or a flathead screwdriver. There's our sensor. Got a little gasket on there. Perfect.

All right, friends. A quick product comparison for you. We have our old sensor from a 2010 Nissan Altima. We have our new sensor. This is a transmission speed sensor. Here's our original sensor. Like I said, we'll just take a look at it. Doesn't look like anything's too bad with it. We'll notice it's got three prongs in there for the connection. Our new 1A Auto part has three prongs. Same hole for mounting it. Comes with a new gasket, which is great. As you can tell, they're the exact same, so that's great. So, I don't see any reason why this wouldn't be a great part to install. So, if you need this or any other part, you can always come to 1A Auto and check us out.

Okay, friends. We've got our quality 1A Auto part. I used a little bit of dielectric grease going around the side here. You can sue something like oil or Vaseline or whatever you have access too. Or nothing, if that's what you're into. But a little bit of lube goes a long way. I'm just going to go ahead, I'm going to put it in the hole and I'm going to try to line up where the bolt hole goes through at the same time. Try to squeeze it down in. Just needs a little bit of coercing. Like I said, that's why we used a little bit of lubricant because it'll help it get in there. If I didn't use any, then I'd be having even more of a hard time.

There it is. Okay. I'm just going to line up the hole the best I can. I'll grab my bolt. I'm going to go ahead and start it in there. I'm going to get it bottomed out by hand, same myself some time with that super long handled ratchet that I mistakenly grabbed. Going back to our 10 millimeter. We're going to tighten it up, turning to the right. Clockwise. All right. Now we've got that tight, we can go ahead and grab this. We'll get this put on there. See if I can turn it enough, which way. Come on. It's the three fingers. Just clip it in. All right.

Okay. So we got our air filter housing box, we've got this right here. This is going to plunge into that little rubber right there. And then there's another one right here, this goes here. Okay. One, two. One, two. We're going to make sure that we have this hose up and it's going to slide over this at the same time. And we've got our wiring still up and out of the way. So we don't have to worry about anything getting pinched. So here we go. I'm going to come in this way, start the hose. Bring these down. Line up those little nubs with the rubbers that we've got down there. There we are. Give it a little push. Very nice.

We'll make sure we have our hose 100% on there. That's very good. I'm going to go ahead and tighten this up. We've got our eight millimeter socket. We're going to turn clockwise. If you were using a flathead screwdriver to remove this, tightening it back up, you might want to go ahead and use an eight millimeter. You'll probably be able to get it snug with a flathead. But to be able to make sure you got it tightened down enough, an eight millimeter would be handy for that. The reason for that is because this is where your air filtration is. If you have an air leak beyond that, then you're going to be sucking dirty air into your engine. So, you know, it's your engine, you do you, boo boo.

I'm going to go ahead and put this back in. I'm going to put this one back in. There we are. Gonna get this connector on here. Make sure, give it a little wiggle. Feels good. So, we've got our bolt, 10 millimeter head. We're going to use our little magnet right here. See if I can get it lined up with the hole. Just go straight down. I could try doing this by hand, but odds are, you're going to drop it. I can't say that I didn't do it a couple times. I'm going to go ahead and tighten this down, turning it clockwise, to the right. All right. Next step is to get our air filter housing back on.

All right. We already checked the air filter, so we know it's good under there. We got two little prongs. Those are going to go into these slots. Just going to go in like that. Lift up these. I'm going to squeeze this together. Give it a little wiggle. If it happens to lift up like this, and it separates from the other part. Then you know you don't have it inside the slots down there. It's pretty common. It's easy to fix. You just unclip it, try again. Okay? Next, we've got out air duct. This right here. We're going to go ahead and put it inside that hole right there. And we're going to bring this down. Line these up with our holes for our bolts. Sure doesn't want to slide right down.

There we are. Grab our two bolts. We're just going to start this one. A few threads. We'll get the other one in. This one we can tighten up all the way. We already have the other side started. It's just a rubber mount, so really, you don't have to go tight, tight. It's pretty much just so you can keep this from coming completely up. There it is. We've completed our service everybody. Great job.

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