Replaces
Part Details
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
FREE Shipping is standard on Orders shipped to the lower 48 States (Contiguous United States). Standard shipping charges apply to Hawaii, Alaska and US Territories. Shipping is not available to Canada.
Expedited is available on checkout to the United States, excluding Alaska, Hawaii and US Territories as well as P.O. Boxes and APO/FPO/DPO addresses. Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
Created on:
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the idler pulley on a Ford Escort ZX2 with 2 liter dual overhead cam engine. It's going to be pretty similar to most of the Ford Escorts with that engine type. The items needed are a new idler pulley from 1AAuto.com; 10, 13, and 15mm socket and socket wrench; a 17mm wrench; and a floor jack.
The first thing you're going to want, before you do this repair, is a belt diagram and we have a nice one made up for you right here. It should give you a pretty good representation of how the belt is routed. Starting at the top left, that's the alternator. Then, going to the right, that's an idler pulley, to the power steering pump them down to the A/C compressor, then over to the crank shaft, then to the tensioner pulley, then to the water pump, another idler pulley and up to the alternator.
In the lower front and right in the wheel area, there's seven 10mm bolts that hold this splash pan in place. In this case, on our car, there's only four, but you're going to remove all of them. Actually, what we find is we take off one and the pan kind of bends down, and we try to remove the other ones but the clips in behind were so rusted that we decided we didn't want to break all of them. We just left it that way and let the pan, or the splash pan hang down out of the way.
I've got a 13mm socket on the end of my ratchet and I'm going to put it on the bolt that goes through the pulley, on the tensioner pulley. I'm going to turn it clockwise to remove the pressure on the belt and then slide the belt off the crank and the rest of the pulleys. The rest of the way, it's a matter of just pulling it down, twisting it a little bit to get it off some of the pulleys and you could also pull it off from the top, as well.
We've got the jack under the oil pan, just enough to support it. We're not really lifting the engine, we're just supporting it. I'm taking out the 17mm bolt that holds on the engine mount. I'm going to fast forward through me removing that bolt. We've got Mike jacking up the engine just a little bit to give us a little more clearance. Here, I've got the wrench on the idler pulley. I'm going to fast forward removing the bolt.
We've got the old part and we've got the identical part from 1A Auto. We're going to fast forward this but it's just the idler pulley and bolt going back in.
Here, I'm reinstalling the bolt for the engine mount and I'm having Mike lower the engine slowly so it lines the holes back up. Once you've got the bolt in, just go ahead and tighten it up.
You're not really going to be able to see me doing the belt, but snake it back in and follow the diagram for routing it. That first step that Don just did, he just got the belt down below the A/C and the crank pulley, preliminarily. Here, I'm just continuing the push the belt down in and trying to get it around as many of the pulleys as I can. I'm just going to speed it along a little bit as I get the belt on. What Don just did there was, there's just some clearance issues getting by the water pump and those tensioner pulleys, he just kind of twisted it to the side and got it over on its way to the alternator. With the top part, it's pretty much done. It's around the alternator, underneath the idler and over the power steering. I want to get this belt on the other side of this pulley, the ribbed pulley here. I'm going to twist it and try not to have it fall of the alternator pulley which is right above it. All right, good.
What we've done here is we've pulled a loop across and you can see I'm helping him out a little bit. I'm holding the belt off of the A/C pulley so he can pull the loop from that tensioner on the back side of the motor towards the front and put it on to the tensioner in the front of the engine. In order to get the wrench in there, it's better to have the pulley off of the crank rather than the A/C pulley, so he just transfers it, takes it off the crank so he has enough room to get it on. I'm using a 15mm here, which is what the new one came with and turning it clockwise. I have to release the tension on the bearing and I've got to make sure, too, that all my belts are on the pulleys because if they're off a little bit, it's not going to give me the room I need. Everything is on except for the crank pulley, and as I do this, it's going to give me room. I'm going to hold it in tight. You can see, Don. He's working the wrench with the right hand and then using the left hand push the belt on to the crank pulley.
Make sure they're all on. Make sure all of them are on and the belt is lined up with the teeth on your pulleys and plug your AC back in. I'm just going to give it one more look up top, like below. I want to make sure that the toothed belt is seated correctly on the power steering, alternator, water pump and below this idler pulley. Once you've done that, just put the splash pan back up and bolt it back in place.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
Hi, I'm Mike from 1AAuto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years! We're dedicated to delivering quality auto parts, expert customer service, and fast and free shipping, all backed by our 100% satisfaction guarantee. So visit us at 1AAuto.com, your trusted source for quality auto parts.
In this video, we're going to be working with our 1996 GMC Sierra K1500 5.7-liter V8. We're going to show you how to remove and replace the idler pulley on your serpentine belt.
If you like this video, please click subscribe. We have a ton more information on this truck as well as many other makes and models. If you ever need parts for your car, you can follow the link down in the description over to 1AAuto.com.
Here are the items you'll need for this repair: 13mm socket, ratchet, socket extension, torque wrench
Be sure your vehicle has a belt path diagram somewhere on the cowl or under the hood before removing the belt. If it's missing or unclear, be sure to draw it somewhere under the hood or take a good picture. Put the 3/8 drive of a ratchet into the square on your serpentine belt tensioner and turn it counterclockwise to release tension. Then simply pull the belt off of any one of the pulleys, slowly release the tension from the tensioner. Remove your ratchet, and take the belt off of the pulleys.
Your idler pulley is located at the top center of the engine at the front, right between your alternator and your A/C if your vehicle came equipped. Use a 13mm socket and ratchet to remove the 13mm bolt in the center of the pulley. Remove the pulley from the vehicle.
Now our pulley is still in okay shape, so rather than waste a new part, we're going to reinstall it, but installing your new part will be exactly the same. Simply line up the bolt, which is captured inside of the pulley so it doesn't come out. We'll bring that in as far as we can by hand and then tighten it down with our 13mm socket and ratchet before torqueing. Torque this bolt to 37 foot pounds. Make sure that it rolls smoothly and freely.
Hook the serpentine belt around the crank pulley or harmonic balancer from the passenger side. Be sure that it seats fully into the grooves of the pulley and doesn't lay over the edge on either side. Wrap the driver's side of the belt around the water pump, under the power steering pump on the other side, and up and over the AC compressor. I already have the left side wrapped around the tensioner here just because that's where it falls. Then, from over the AC compressor under the idler pulley, reinstall the ratchet into the tensioner. Turn the ratchet counterclockwise to release the tension, and install your belt over the alternator. Take a second just to look around and make sure that your belt is seated and routed properly before releasing the tension and removing your ratchet.
Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.
Tools used
This video brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Hi I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners of 1AAuto.com. I want to help you save time and money repairing and maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20 plus years' experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this to show you the correct way to install parts from 1AAuto.com. The right parts installed correctly that's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the idler pulley for you serpentine belt on this '98 explorer. The procedure's the same for a lot of explorers with both the V6 and V8 engines. The tools you'll need are 8mm wrench, flat blade screwdriver, 3/8 drive ratchet handle, and a 15mm socket ratchet and handle. Disconnect the negative battery cable with an 8mm or 5/16 wrench. You're going to want to pull your intake hose back, which is fairly easy. You're going to loosen up this clamp here and then you want to unclamp your air filter box. Pull that off of your throttle body. Pull this up and you can flip this up and move it away. Now to remove the belt, right here is your belt tensioner and you want to take a 3/8 drive ratchet handle and it is square hole right in the tensioner. Put my wrench down in there and push down and you can the belt loosen up and slide it right off of the idler pulley and let your wrench back up, and you can take the belt off of all the components. Reach down and lift it off of the crank shaft and it comes up and off.
This right here is your idler pulley. Once you get your belt off you can actually test it, just try to shake it back and forth and spin it and you shouldn't hear any noise. If you hear noise or you feel play you'll want to replace it. This one actually is in good shape so we'll put it right back on. You got your 15mm socket on there, and a little trick for extra leverage, I put a larger wrench down around my ratchet handle and I pull nice and easy on the big wrench and that gives me the extra leverage and keeps my hands out of this area so they don't get cut up. Once it's loose, I can just use my ratchet. Then you do need to twist this little lock washer off. The bolt comes out and see there's little bushing right here. Here's a new pulley from 1AAuto, the original pulley. You can see they're both the same. We tested this one and it was still in good shape so I'll put that one back on. It's pretty easy. You put the bolt through and make sure this washer gets on the back, hold everything together, put it right back into place.
I'm going to use the same trick with my big wrench, tighten up and put the belt back on, very important. Here's your belt diagram. It shows how the belt is routed. What we want to do is make a little loop and work it around the crank shaft here first and then we'll work around everything else. Make that loop and make it tight and pass the belt under the shaft of the fan a little bit, get it into your other hand, get it up under the crank shaft and around the whole crank shaft and the top. Take the belt up and over the water pump, around the power steering pump and ac compressor, over the alternator and into the tensioner, press on it here. Make sure everything's lined up well. Push your tensioner down and in with your wrench then slide the belt underneath the idler and then you're all set. Put the air hose back over. Push it on the there, push it back in here. Then the three tabs right here, make sure they go into the right slots. Clip it back on. Make sure that's pushed on there well. Tighten your clamp back up. Make sure all these connections are still good. You're all set.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet, please feel free to call us toll free at 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the internet and in person.
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and the next time you need a part for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the idler pulley on this 1996 Chevy Tahoe with the 5.7-liter V8 engine. It's the same part in similar process on a large variety of GM vehicles, and it fits the Tahoes from 1996 to 2008. The items you'll need for this include: a new idler pulley from 1AAuto.com; a 10mm and 13mm socket and a ratchet with an extension; and a 3/8-inch ratchet.
First, we need to just remove this cable. Push back on that tab and pull the harness up and out. Next, you want to remove this series of 10mm bolts that line this panel. We'll just fast-forward as Don removes each of those. Now, lift that shroud up and off.
Now, using your 3/8-inch ratchet, just push it in to that square hole. Then when you push down on it, it will loosen up the tension on the belt allowing you to pull it free. Just start off by pulling off the alternator, and then carefully let the ratchet up, pull it out, remove your belt the rest of the way, and pull it over that fan. Your idler pulley is located right here, and it's held in with a 13mm bolt. Just go ahead and remove that. Once that's removed, the pulley will pull right off.
Take your new idler pulley and push it into place with the bolt already through it, and just tighten that bolt up. Now, to put the serpentine belt back on, you're going to want to use this belt routing diagram. If you don't have AC, you use the dash line. If you do, then you're going to use the solid line, and you just want to follow this and put your belt on in this order. It's kind of hard to show Don doing it, so we're just going to fast-forward as he fits it over each of the pulleys.
When all that's left is your alternator, put that 3/8-inch ratchet back into your tensioner, push down, put the belt up on the alternator, and then carefully release the ratchet and pull it out. Fit that shroud back down into place, and make sure all of your holes are lining up. We'll just fast-forward as Don replaces that series of 10mm bolts. Now, just push that harness back into that clip and push it down into place.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the idler pulley on this 2002 Chevy Suburban. It's the same part and process on these Suburbans from 2000 to 2008. The items you'll need for this are a new idler puller from 1Aauto.com, a 10 and 15 mm socket and ratchet, and a flat blade screw driver.
Start off by loosening these two hose clamps, using your flat blade screw driver. We'll just fast forward as Don does this. Just pry this clip out and then pull the hose back. You may need a flat blade screwdriver to help you pry it free. Then pull forward and lift it up and out.
Next, remove these two 10mm bolts, and we'll fast forward as Don does that. Pry the clip on this hose out of the fan shroud. Then remove these four clips around your shroud. To remove these clips, you just pry up the center and then pull the clip out. We'll fast forward as Don does this to the other three. Now, just pull that hose back and lift the shroud straight up and out.
Using a 15 mm socket and ratchet, just put it here on the tensioner. Push down on the tensioner and pull the belt up and over the idler puller. Then, carefully release then tension on the tensioner and loosen this 15 millimeter bolt. We'll just fast forward as Don loosens that. Once you loosen that enough it will just pull free with the pulley. Now, to separate the bolt from the pulley, you just need to pry off this ring and then pull the bolt out.
On the left is the old idler puller. On the right is the new one from 1A Auto. You can see they're identical, and they'll fit exactly the same. Put the bolt back into the idler pulley and then slide that nut down, and then that ring. Make sure that ring's pushed all the way back down in and that you bend those tabs back down if they got popped up when you pried it off. Then, push the pulley back into place with the bolt and just start hand tightening it. Once you've got it started you can use your ratchet to tighten it up the rest of the way. Now, push back down on the tensioner and push the belt back underneath the idler pulley. Then carefully release the tension on the tensioner and pull the ratchet free.
Now, to replace the shroud just push it back down into place. Then replace those four clips. Just push them back down into place and push the center down to lock them. Push the hose back into place and then replace those two 10 mm bolts.
Now, take this air intake hose and push it back down into place on the air intake box, and then, on to the engine. Then just tighten up those two hose clamps. Then just re-clip that hose to the air intake hose, and you're all set.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
