Replaces
Part Details
Product Features
TRQ drivetrain kits are manufactured using premium raw materials to restore original performance. Each TRQ drivetrain component is designed to be a direct, maintenance-free replacement to the stock unit. To extend the service life of your drivetrain, TRQ recommends replacing wheel hubs, bearings, and constant velocity (CV) drive axles at the same time to ensure even wear of components and improved ride comfort. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
CV axles are designed to transmit the power from your vehicle's drivetrain to the wheels while being able to flex and pivot to the demands of the steering and suspension systems. If your vehicle is making clicking noises at lower speeds or when making turns, it may be time to replace your CV axles with our 100% brand new assemblies.
Our steering and suspension components are pre-greased and sealed for long life and do not require the extra maintenance typically required by greaseable versions.
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
FREE Shipping is standard on orders shipped to the lower 48 States (Contiguous United States). Standard shipping charges apply to Hawaii and Alaska.
Shipping is not available to a P.O. Box, APO/FPO/DPO addresses, US Territories, or Canada for this item.
Expedited is available on checkout to the United States, excluding Alaska, Hawaii.
Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
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Hi, I’m Mike from 1A Auto. We’ve been selling auto parts for over 30 years!
In this video, we will be removing and replacing a rear wheel bearing and hub assembly in a 2008 Subaru Outback. I'm going to take off the lug nuts. Use a 19mm socket and a breaker bar. I'm just going to crack them loose before we lift the vehicle off the ground. Then I'll take the lug nuts out. Put them aside. Grab the wheel and pull it off.
All right, we're going to take the caliper off. To do that, we're going to take these two 14mm bolts out. We're going to use a 14mm wrench and take the bolt out. Now, when you're taking this bolt out, if this stud is spinning, you can hold it with some Channellock pliers then take it out.
Before we take this bolt out, we're going to break free the top too. Now we can take them both out. If this caliper is really tight, take a screwdriver and pry it against the rotor. Squeeze the piston down a little bit, and you can pull it right out. Take a bungee cord, wrap it around the spring, and the caliper's out of the way and secure. We can pull our pads off.
To take these caliper bracket bolts out, I'm going to use a 14mm socket on an extension. Pull that out, and then we're going to pull the rotor off. Our rotor is nice and loose. If your rotor was stuck on there, you can use a hammer and hit on all this surface right here. You will also have some areas where you could put a couple bolts, where you could push the bolts in and tap it, and that'll help you take the rotor off.
I'm going to pull the axle nut out, but before we do that, there's a little lock right here, so I'm going to take a little punch and a hammer and try to move it out of the way. That moved it a little bit.
Next we're going to take this off with a 32mm socket to get the axle nut free. All right, we're going to drop it down so that we can get the hub closer to the ground, because we're going to put a pry bar in between the lugs. That'll keep it from spinning. Then we're going to take our breaker bar. I'm not going to use this. And then break the nut free. There you go. Now it's free. And it's free. Take a punch. We're going to use a hammer and tap the axle in so it's loose.
To take this speed sensor out, take a 10mm socket and an extension and a ratchet. I'm pulling the speed sensor out so that it doesn't get in the way when pulling the hub out, because you could break it. Now I'm going to pull the sensor out. You can, to break it free a little bit, take a little screwdriver and just get next to it. Just wiggle it a little bit. These sensors are very sensitive and can break easily, so we'll get that and pull it out of our way. I'm going to spray a little bit of rust penetrant on the bolts. Be careful not to get any on the parking brake shoes. And right there, that's good. If it drips down and is on the metal part of the parking brake shoes, that's okay. Just, you don't want it on the fiber part. And spray a little bit on the back side, just on the bolts.
We're going to take the hub bolts out. I'm going to use a 14mm socket, a long extension, and a ratchet. Get a longer extension for this top one here. Once we get those all out, we can take the hub off. I'm just going to loosely put this nut on the outside so if it does start coming out. It won't just fall on the ground.
Now, I'm going to put some of the bolts in from the back side, just loosely, and then I'm going to take a long punch and a hammer to try to tap it forward. There it goes. It's loose now. Take these bolts back out. We can pull our hub off. In this case, the backing shield came with the hub. Take a hammer and just knock it out.
Here's our old part. Here's our new part from 1AAuto.com. As you can see, they're machined the same. The reluctor ring on the back is the same. The front, the stud configuration is the same. The bore is the same. Everything looks good. Get your part at 1AAuto.com, and you'll be ready to rock and roll.
Before we put our new hub in, we're going to take a wire brush and just clean this up a little bit. It'll make going in a little bit easier. Putting our parking brake setup back. Slide our new hub in. Just put the nut on the outside to hold it. Now, while holding the hub from the outside, I'm going to take our 14mm bolts and screw them in from the back side. Try to get the two corner ones lined up, and the other two will come easier. I'm going to snug these all down evenly, then we're going to torque them.
I'm going to torque these bolts to 47.9 foot-pounds. I'm going to tighten our axle nut, and then take our pry bar, stick it on this side, and have it right up against the ground. We're going to take our torque wrench, and I'm going to torque this nut to 177 foot-pounds. Do that one more time. Good.
I'm going to install our speed sensor. Need to put back in the hole, then get our 10mm bolt in there and tighten it down. Get our extension and our ratchet and our 10mm socket, and snug it down.
First, before we install the rotor, we're going to put it on backwards so we can take some brake parts cleaner and clean the back side of the rotor. Then we want to wipe it off. When they make these rotors, they put a protective coating on them so they don't rust on the shelf. All right. I'm going to spray Brakleen on this side, and wipe it down.
Install our caliper bracket. Take the bolts and put them in from the backside. I'm going to torque these bolts for this caliper bracket to 47.9 foot-pounds. Take some brake caliper and brake pad grease, put it on the ears of the pads, and we're going to put a little bit on the surface here. Be careful. Don't get it on your fingers. We're going to slide that in, in the back side. There we go. Do the same with the front one. Put a little bit on the ears, and then put a little on the face, and install that. It's ready.
Get the bungee cord off of the caliper. Then you want to compress the piston. We're going to use some Channellock pliers. You can use a C-clamp or a brake caliper tool. When it's all the way down, then we're going to reinstall the brake caliper. Install the brake caliper bolts. I'm going to torque these bolts to 19 foot-pounds. Think this one I can just do this right on top. After we tighten this nut for the axle, we can take a punch and a hammer and you can chisel this down. It's to make it so it will not spin. It's just a lock. That's good.
Install our tire. Put the lug nuts on. With a torque wrench, we're going to torque the lug nuts down to 90 foot-pounds, going in a star pattern. You want to go in a star pattern so that you torque the wheel to the hub evenly. There you go. And before you drive away, you're going to want to make sure that you pump the brake pedal slowly, multiple times, because there'll be an air gap between brake pads and the caliper, so when you pump it, it will push the fluid back to the caliper and compress the brake pads.
Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.
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