Replaces
Part Details
TRQ suspension kits are manufactured using premium raw materials and coatings for extended service life. Each TRQ suspension component is designed to be a direct, maintenance-free replacement to the stock unit. To extend the life of your steering and suspension components, TRQ recommends replacing components in pairs, sets, or kits. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Replacing struts used to require specialized tools to compress, remove, and transfer the old spring and mount. Our Pre-assembled, complete strut & spring assemblies come with all new parts and make the job much quicker and easier for the do-it-yourself mechanic.
Strut & spring assembly contains:
Our steering and suspension components are pre-greased and sealed for long life and do not require the extra maintenance typically required by greaseable versions.
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Chromium (Hexavalent Compounds), which is known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
FREE Shipping is standard on orders shipped to the lower 48 States (Contiguous United States). Standard shipping charges apply to Hawaii and Alaska.
Shipping is not available to a P.O. Box, APO/FPO/DPO addresses, US Territories, or Canada for this item.
Expedited is available on checkout to the United States, excluding Alaska, Hawaii.
Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
Created on:
Tools used
Hi. I'm Mike from 1AAuto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years!
Use a large pry bar or a flat bladed screw driver to remove the wheel cover. Just kind of slide it between the wheel and the plastic and pop it off. These lug nuts are a 21 millimeter socket. I'm going to use that and a breaker bar to loosen them while the vehicle's on the ground. Raise this part of the vehicle. We're using a two post lift, but you can use a jack and jack stands. The lug nuts are loose. I’m going to take my socket and finish removing them. I’m just going to hold onto the wheel and take the last lug nut off. It's going to be loose. You don't want to drop it. You can drop the lug nut. That's okay. You just don't want the wheel to fall.
I’m going to disconnect the sway bar link from the strut. Going to spray some rust penetrant on this upper sway bar mount. Use a wire brush to clean off some of the rusty bits. These can be difficult to take off, they get rusty and then the ball joint spins. It does have a hex spot here to put in a six millimeter hex drive. A lot of times that strips almost instantly as soon as you try to break it free ad you end up having to put vice grips behind to grab onto the ball joint, because there's no point here for a wrench. We’re going to do our best to get this one off without having to cut it off.
So this is 17 millimeter nut. Try to break it free first. See, it's turning, it's turning the whole ball joint with it. It's really tight. I’m trying to clean out any rust and dirt that's in this hex drive so I can get the hex drive to sit as far possible inside here, so it doesn't strip. Use some brake parts cleaner, I've sprayed some oil in there and I've been working the hex drive in to try to clean it out. I can see it's going in a little deeper, trying to get this sit as best I can. That's as far as it will go. Spray some more rust penetrant on there. I'm going to try to counter hold this hex drive while I free it with the 17 millimeter boxed wrench. We'll see how this goes. Sometimes you have to brace that against like the strut ad these just have so much – see, it's moving. That's good. It's really tight, though, so I'm just going to put that there. I'm going to spray some more rust penetrant.
These are typically self-locking nuts, so they're a little bit, they're not perfectly round. They're kind of oblong and that can make removing them difficult and also the rust gets gummed up in the threads. So I'm trying to spin this on and off to try to work the rust penetrant into the threads. So as I kind of expected, working these back and forth this hex drive they basically always strip. It's nearly impossible to remove them without these stripping, no matter what you do. So the next step I'm going to get some vice grips and try to hold the ball joint back here and use a 17 millimeter socket and ratchet and continue to remove this nut.
I’m going to try to slide these locking pliers behind the ball joint on the sway bar link. I’ve got a 17 millimeter deep socket on this longer ratchet, going to try to remove these. It feels like it's turning. One thing to mention if you're going to have to remove sway bar links for any reason or think you're going to have to remove them for any reason, you should have new ones on hand. They're almost a one-time use part.
If you're as lucky as us, you'll have to resort to power tools or a hacksaw to cut these sway bar links free. I'll do my best to avoid the strut, I don't want to damage that. I just want to kind of cut on the – going to try to find the narrowest part of the ball joint and the sway bar link. I think I'm on there.
I've actually gone in here. Because these sway bar links get seized on here so easily, I went in and cut the boot away, the rubber boot. So that I can get locking pliers in here to get a better grip on it and it's kind of working by holding it. I'm able to turn the nut out. Worst case if I get loose enough and it just keeps spinning, then I will take a saw and cut it right here. But I'm going to keep trying it right now with the locking pliers. Got it.
Here are our old sway bar links from our vehicle. You can see where I had to cut them. I was able to finally get this one out, but still, these have been destroyed by trying to remove them and you can see they're kind of rounded here. There's no real way to counter hold them to remove the bolts. They are supposed to have a hex drive in here. That strips out pretty quickly when you're trying to remove them.
Here's a brand new sway bar link this is from 1AAuto.com. These actually have a six-point on them so you can put a wrench on here and tighten them down and it's not going to spin on you and when you want to remove them to do other services, you can put your wrench over here and spin this off without destroying the ball joint and the sway bar link. So this should fit great and work great in your vehicle.
Put these up. Get this one up top. You can bend these around. Slide it through. These nuts are locking nuts, so the hole is not perfectly round. It's kind of oblong. So when this starts to tighten it will lock and it won't want to back off.
These nuts are 18 millimeter get this one set up here. The counter hold on the back is 18 millimeters. I'm going to use a deep socket 18 millimeter in the front. Get these snugged down and I'll come back and torque them. Torque for these sway bar links is 55 foot-pounds, and repeat it on the other nut.
Reinstall our wheel. It’s important to note these lug nuts have a taper. Taper meets the wheel and matches the inside of the wheel. Don't install them on the flat side like this; that is incorrect. Install them with the taper to the wheel. It helps locate the wheel on the lug nut stud. I'm just using the socket and ratchet to bring these down snug before I put the car on the ground. Torque the lug nuts to 76 foot-pounds, going in a cross pattern. Reinstall the hub cap. You’ve got to line up the opening for the valve stem with the valve stem on the wheel. Just push it in place.
Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.
Tools used
Tools used
Hi, I’m Mike from 1A Auto. We’ve been selling auto parts for over 30 years!
Use a large pry bar or a flat bladed screw driver to remove the wheel cover. Just kind of slide it between the wheel and the plastic and pop it off. These lug nuts are a 21 millimeter socket. I'm going to use that and a breaker bar to loosen them while the vehicle's on the ground. Raise this part of the vehicle. We're using a two post lift, but you can use a jack and jack stands. The lug nuts are loose. I’m going to take my socket and finish removing them. I’m just going to hold onto the wheel and take the last lug nut off. It's going to be loose. You don't want to drop it. You can drop the lug nut. That's okay. You just don't want the wheel to fall.
After removing your wheel and raising and supporting the vehicle, we're going to remove the bolt that is holding on the brake line and the ABS wire from the strut. Bolt goes all the way through. It's a threaded nut, so I'm just going to spray some rust penetrant on the back side. A little bit up here. This is a 12 millimeter bolt. Push the brake caliper line down, and then this ABS line just pulls out of the bracket and can go aside. It's also clipped with a piece of plastic to the strut. You just pull these two tabs apart it pops out of the holes, so that will be loose from the strut now. Just push those aside.
Next thing to remove would be the upper sway bar link. We've already replaced this one. We had to cut ours off. Most likely you will have to cut yours off too before you do the strut. You can get new sway bar links from 1AAuto.com. On the one that we have, the replacement it is an 18-millimeter nut and then an 18 millimeter. There's a socket. Sort of like a six point on the back, so you can counter-hold it to remove it. Our originals did not have that. It made it very difficult to remove them, and we had to cut them off. If these get bound up a little bit you can take a small hammer and just tap them out.
Next, I'm going to remove the two lower strut bolts that are mounting it to the knuckle. Start with some rust penetrant on here. A little bit between there. These are 22 millimeter. They're very, very big, so I'm going to counter-hold on the end of the bolt and I'm going to loosen at the nut. I'm going to use a 12-point 22 millimeter so I can get a better angle. I'm just going to push it down to free that one up. Work on the bottom one. Worst case, I can go under here. Once they're initially broken free, you can switch to a socket and a ratchet and finish removing them.
With the nuts removed, I'm going to take a small ball-peen hammer, and I'm going to tap out the lower bolts. If you need to, you can push on the knuckle a little bit to free it up. I'm going to leave the top one in for now because I want to loosen the three nuts that are holding the strut to the strut tower, and if this bolt is out and I loosen them the strut could fall, so it's just going to help me keep the strut where I need it to be right now.
I'm going to spray some rust penetrant on the top of these studs and nuts that are holding the strut in. Do not need to loosen the center nut. That is what's holding the strut together and the spring under compression, so don't touch this nut. Just these three outer ones. These are 14 millimeter. I'm just going to start by loosening them all evenly. It did drop down, but since I had it bolted to this knuckle, it didn't fall out on me. You can actually lift up on it. Pull this bolt out. Wiggle it. It's going to come off the knuckle. Pull it right out.
Here's our old strut assembly and a brand new assembled strut from 1AAuto.com. That means you don't have swap over the spring, and you don't have to swap over the mount. It's all ready to go and bolt right into the car. These right and left specific, so just like the OEM one it's got a little R here. On our new one from 1A Auto, it's got an R there, so that's going go on the passenger's side front.
Right-hand side of the car. It has the same mounting holes for the strut, same mount setup for the sway bar link, and of course, where I was pointing out the R, it's the same mount for the brake line and ABS line. At the top, we have the same style strut top. There's actually a warning sticker here. It's telling you not to undo this nut, so we can peel that off before we install it. This one came with three new locking nuts. I'm going to take them off before I install it, but this should fit in your car and work great for you.
We're going to take our new strut and put it up into the strut tower and line up the holes. I'm just going to capture some of these nuts. We can let it hang like that, that's fine. I'm going to one of our bolts and make it lined up into the knuckle. You might have to actually lift it up. If you need to you can put a jack under here. I'm going to get the other bolt in. I'm just going to thread in on these nuts for now. Now I'm going to go to the top of the strut and I can start tightening down. These new lock nuts are 15 millimeter. I'm going to start tightening them down just evenly bringing the strut up. The torque on these is 63-foot-pounds. I'm just going to go evenly. Just going to take our socket and snug these down before I torque them to the final spec. I'm going to torque these to 155-foot-pounds. Make sure you counter-hold the bolt. Do the same for both bolts. I'm going to reinstall the sway bar link. Counter-hold the sway bar link. Tighten it, so with the upper sway bar link to 55-foot-pounds.
Reinstall the ABS wire bracket because tabs where it slides into the hole. That's where it fits over. This is a little tight. I'm just going to tap it into place. Put the brake fluid line back up here. The bolt line up. Clip the ABS retainer right back onto here.
Reinstall your wheel. Lower your vehicle to the ground and torque it. The strut is replaced. Reinstall our wheel. Important to note, these lug nuts have a taper. Taper meets the wheel, matches the inside of the wheel. Don't install them the flat side like this. That is incorrect. Install them with the taper to the wheel. It helps locate the wheel on the lug nut stud. I'm just using a socket and ratchet to bring these down snug before I put the car on the ground. Torque the lug nuts to 76-foot-pounds. I'm going at a cross pattern. Reinstall the hubcap. You've got to line up the opening to the valve stem with the valve stem on the wheel. Just push it in place.
Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.
