★★★★★
June 21, 2026
It worked perfectly no
Replaces
Part Details
Specifications
About TRQ:
TRQ is a trusted brand dedicated to making every repair a success story by combining premium parts with easy installation. Each TRQ part is engineered by a team of automotive experts to meet or exceed OEM standards, delivering enhanced performance and maximum longevity. With rigorous in-house testing, the brand ensures superior fit and function across every product line. TRQ also provides customers with best-in-class, step-by-step installation videos—so you can complete repairs with confidence, whether you're a first-time DIYer or an industry professional.
Direct Fit Replacement
Premium Aluminum Core
100% Leak Tested
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
Packaging:
Radiators may incur bent cooling fins or small imperfections during shipping or manufacturing. A few bent fins or small dents and scratches do not affect the fit or the function of the part. Neither our 60 Day satisfaction guarantee, nor the manufacturer's warranty, cover these types of insignificant damages.
FREE Shipping is standard on orders shipped to the lower 48 States (Contiguous United States). Standard shipping charges apply to Hawaii and Alaska.
Shipping is not available to a P.O. Box, APO/FPO/DPO addresses, US Territories, or Canada for this item.
Expedited is available on checkout to the United States, excluding Alaska, Hawaii.
Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
Created on:
Tools used
Hi, I’m Mike from 1A Auto. We’ve been selling auto parts for over 30 years!
I'm going to put some protective tape on the edges of the bumper and the fender, so that while we're handling the bumper, we're going to avoid scratching up the paint. Just repeat this with the other side. To take the front bumper off.
You don't have to have the car in the air, but it does make it easier for us to show you what we're doing. You're going to remove this 10-millimeter bolt here. There was one here, all of them right across the front: one here, here, another one here, and this one over here. I’m just going to use a 10-millimeter socket. They do have a spot in them for a Phillips head screwdriver, but the socket makes it a little bit easier.
To remove these lower splash shields, I'm going to remove the other 10-millimeter bolts. One over here. I'm going to remove these bolts here, so I'm probably going to replace these with after-market ones. They're most likely going to be 10 millimeters, like the other ones, but on this car, they're 1/4". On each side of the bumper, there's a small plastic clip. We use a flat bladed screwdriver to turn it 90 degrees to unlock it.
Then we use a plastic prying tool, like the ones you can get at 1AAuto.com to pry it out. Put that aside so we don't lose it. That's what's holding in the bumper to this fender liner. Once you remove this pin, you got to move up here, and you can pull down the fender liner. There's a hidden fastener up here. It's 10 millimeter. Also has a Phillips head screw head to it, but I'm going to use a 10-millimeter socket because it's easier. Go ahead and remove it. Repeat this for the other side. This bolt might be a little rusty underneath. I'm going to spray some rust penetrant. Take our 10-millimeter socket and remove it.
This is a one single bolt that is holding on this entire middle support that's on the top of the bumper. On both sides of this bumper, there is a screw with a rubber cap around it and a bunch of these push pins. This larger one here attaches to the headlamp assembly. It's actually broken on our vehicle, so it needs to be pushed out so the bumper can come apart. I'm going to leave this one in here because it's already broken. We're going to remove this, and then the other side I will push this pin out.
Using a Phillips head screwdriver. That feels pretty rusty, I'm going to use some rust penetrant in there. See how the top of this bumper's now loose, so it's come off of this middle bracket. It should be pinned into here on the headlight, but this part of the headlight is actually broken off. You need to push this pin out. It's going to be pretty difficult where it's like a flush mounted pin, so I'm going to take a plastic prying tool that you can get from 1AAuto.com. I'm going to push it in here. I'll try to pry up on that. It'll work, it might not work. I might just take a very small flat-headed screwdriver, and go up in here. That actually did the trick. So that will be loosen from the headlight assembly. I need to remove this screw. With all the fastener removed, the bumper should unclip from the body.
You have to give it a bit of a pull to pull off of this bracket. It snaps down to here. It's going to actually sit on top of those metal brackets on the top of the bumper, so that's okay. I'm going to do the same on this side. Just got to put your hands underneath. Get a firm tug. With it loose, you can lift the whole bumper off.
Drain the coolant into an appropriate container. Open up the drain that's here. Once that's open, I can actually open the radiator cap. It should come out a lot faster.
Move the hood latch. Move the three 10 millimeter bolts that are holding it on. Pull this out. You kind of slide it out between the sheet metal. I just moved the horn out of the way. Now get some more slack. Take a flat bladed screwdriver and just pop this cable out of where it's sitting. Now with it out I can slide the little weight end just down there, and the latch is removed.
With the hood latch out of the way, I can get to this bolt because this entire upper radiator support is going to have to come out. That can just be loose. I'll put this bolt right back in the original spot, so it doesn't go missing. The horns are bolted to the radiator support that we need to remove. You can either unbolt them or unplug them and just take them with the radiator support, so we're going to unplug them by just squeezing on the lock tab and pulling it out. Same thing to the other side. Use just a flat bladed screwdriver to just push the lock in, and just pry them out.
Next up, we want to remove this intake tube. It's ten millimeter bolts that are holding it to the upper radiator support. That'll just lift out like that. Put that aside. I'm going to put our bolts back in there so I know where they go at the end. Then remove these two bolts. There's another two on this other side just like it, ten millimeter. I'll lift this upper radiator support off of these rubber mounts for the radiator. Slide it out from behind these air guides, and I've got the horns are going to come with it.
You could do this from up above, but it's easier to reach these from underneath. These are the transmission cooler lines that are going into the radiator, and you remove these clamps and then pull these lines off of the radiator. I'm going to put some glove fingertips over them, so they don't leak transmission fluid everywhere. Make sure you have a drain pan underneath to catch any fluid that leaks out. Take some more glove fingertips, put them over these lines because when we go to take the radiator out, we can swing it around, try not to get fluid everywhere. I'm going to remove this upper radiator hose.
The O2 sensor is clipped to it, so unclip it here and pull this apart. It just pops out. So squeeze these tabs, pull it apart, and then what I'm going to do, I'm just going to click it over here, so it doesn't get lost. Pull that out of the way, and use our pliers. Click these open. They do have little locks, but they're kind of tricky to get them locked. So all you have to do is move them out to the middle. Same thing for this one. That one actually locked for me, so it actually slid over the little tab there. I'm going to work this off the plastic of the radiator. I'm going to work it off the metal of the head. It kind of gets sealed on there with heat.
I'm going to use a pick to try to break the seal. I'm going to put this hose aside because we'll reuse it. One thing that's important to mention when you're dealing with a radiator on this car is that the AC condenser is bolted to it. The AC condenser has hard lines that run to your AC system and it's filled with Freon. Now you don't want to disturb this and puncture it or crack these lines and take them apart because you lose all your Freon and then your AC is not going to work, and then you'll need to go to a professional shop and have it recharged or repaired because it's not something that the average person can do in their driveway. So we're going to be really careful dealing with this AC condenser. I'm going to attempt to remove the fans right now to show you how to do that. I think with this upper radiator hose out of the way, it's pretty easy to do.
There's a flat bladed screwdriver to push the locks in. This connector out here, same way. You can use a clip prying tool to pry these out of the fan. Put this harness aside. The fan, the two fans are connected to the radiator with these push in clips on the top. There's three sets of them, and then it just slides over some pins in the bottom, so we're going to push these in, push it out, same thing over here. Push them in, push it out, and lift it up off the pins. It's a little tricky because it actually loops around the bottom of the lower radiator hose. Undo the lower radiator hose. I'm going to use a pick to break the seal. I'm going to remove this overflow tube, the hose. I'm going to use the pick to break the seal. I'm going to just put that aside.
Now we need to separate the radiator and the AC condenser. I'm going to use some rust penetrant on these top bolts and these two bottom bolts. Ten millimeter. Remove these and put them aside. What's going to happen is this condenser is just going to sit there. Now the radiator is completely loose and disconnected. I left the lower hose on here, so we'll pick it up out of the bottom grommets. Make sure you don't get caught under the AC condenser. Pull it straight up and out of the engine bay. I'm going to remove this lower radiator hose clamp. Now it's really easy to get to. Put the hose aside so I can reuse it. There are some grommets on the bottom of the radiator. Just slide them off so you can reuse them. There are two grommets on the top, also reuse those, and the radiator cap, we're going to reuse.
Here's our original radiator from our vehicle, and here's our brand new one from 1AAuto.com. You can see it's similar in design. You've got your automatic transmission cooling lines, pretty corroded, very corroded over here. You can actually see where the plastic end tank and the aluminum part of the radiator is crimped along the edge here. It looks like it's begun to separate and actually leak. You can see some dried coolant and a little bit of dampness from what looks like coolant that's come out. So this radiator looks like it was on its way out.
I'm just going to flip it over and compare it to the other one. It has the same mounting tabs as the original for the AC condenser, and the same pins top and bottom that those grommets are going to go on to. Can actually put them on right now. So these are our original grommets we'll have to reuse. These will go on the top, and these two will go on the bottom. Flip it back over.
We're going to reuse the radiator cap. This should fit great in our vehicle and help keep it cool. Radiator also shifts on these protective caps. They're on the end of these hoses so that debris doesn't get down in them. I'm going to leave them on until we're all the way installed and ready to put these lines back on. That way nothing gets in there. I'm going to reinstall our lower radiator hose while it's on the bench it's a little easier to deal with. It was roughly in that position. Put our hose clamp back down. Slide our new radiator down. It's going to go into the radiator support. And the grommets on the bottom of the radiator, one is going to sit here and the other one is going to sit in here. Trying to be very careful of our A/C condenser. I'm just going to put that there because it just kind of helps hold the radiator in place. I'm going to catch these top ones, so this actually is a little hook here. Go up and they will hook right there. Put our bolts back into them. Put in our bottom bolts.
Reinstall the lower radiator hose. Push the clamp back over. Reinstall the overflow tank hose. The bottom of the cooling fan shroud there are two tabs. They're going to match up with the two tabs down here in the bottom of the radiator. We also need to slide this hook. It's going to go on the other side of the lower radiator hose. It's pretty soft. I'm going to slide it in there. I'm going to have to squish the hose a little bit. You can feel them slide right over and they should line up with these upper push tabs. Once it's lined up you just push them in. They'll lock into place.
Now reinstall the electrical harness. These push clips will go right back in where they came out. We'll put this one over here. Put this back into here. This go back into here. This'll plug into here. So this original radiator hose. It's actually marked kind of where it was sitting. We'll put it back on that side and it lines up with the radiator on this side. You can also see the mark where our wire was sitting. So this one actually managed to lock so I can just slide it over without squeezing it together. Just going to sit it in the original spot, unlock it without snapping my fingers. Line it back up where it was. The upper radiator hose is installed.
We're going to put our O2 sensor wire back into place. Spin that back. This again, you squeeze it and it pulls apart. It goes underneath the hose.
Reinstall the upper radiator support. It's going to go down over, you'll have to slide it in these little air guides, those slots. They're kind of flexible. You can move them around. You also have to get it over these grommets. So it's in place. You can actually temporarily thread this in to help hold it and reinstall the four bolts, two on each side. Radiator support is reinstalled. Just going to tighten up this one. I'm going to plug the horns back in, and reinstall the hood latch. Take our hood cable, it was behind here. I can get the little lead weight part looped into here, and then we need to push the plastic part up into the bracket just like that. It's pushed up. I can spin this over, and then go behind that down and over. We'll get it lined up and these two upper bolts go here. It does have a little bit of adjustment, but you can kind of see the original, there's an outline where the original bolt heads were. For now I'm going to line it up with those and hope that it stays the same. If not, I'll have to come back and adjust it. See it moving around, so just do your best to line it up with where the marks were from the original bolts.
Got our drain pan in place because we're going to lose some transmission fluid here and we want to catch it. I'm going to take off these rubber caps that the radiator shipped with. You don't need them anymore. I'm going to grab this line here. This one goes here. Remove our zip tie. Install the hose clamp. Wipe up that oil. Pull this line down. Cut this zip tie off. I believe I had two of these because this one was like real leaky. Take this one off. Squeeze the clamp. Reinstall the air intake tube. Just slides over the air box. Lines back up on the radiator support. Install and tighten the ten millimeter bolts.
I'll reinstall the bumper. We'll hang it on the top brackets. This is why we put tape, so as we're moving around we don't scratch anything. This can be pushed back into the bracket now. Same for the other side. Install the push clips into headlamp.
Then these bumpers have bolts in them, Phillips head screw. Install the bolt on top of the bumper. I'm going to reinstall these plastic locks. They went in this way, and then turned. Install the self-tapping screw that's up here behind the fender liner. Reinstall the locking clip. Reinstall the self-tapping screw behind the fender liner. Reinstall the splash shield.
Slide up into the bumper. Reinstall the other half. This piece went up into here. Just reinstall whatever hardware that's original to the vehicle that you took out here. Peel off all the tape that you're using to protect the body work.
You need to adjust the alignment of your hood latch and loosen the three bolts, move the hood latch to where you need it to be. Close the hood. You can check the alignment of this panel gap between the hood and the fender and the same on the other side, along the edge of the bumper. Our car looks good, so I'm going to leave it alone.
Fill and bleed the cooling system. We have a special funnel setup to help us do that. You can do this with a regular funnel. This makes it a little bit easier. It's also easier for you to see it. I'm going to fill it with coolant, let the air bubble out. You can top the radiator off with the correct coolant, then we'll turn the heat on, start the car, let it idle to come up to temperature, then bleed out any air out of the cooling system. Now that's bled, we can take the funnel off. Carefully remove our adapter here. Replace our radiator cap. Dispose of the extra coolant properly.
Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.
RDA82718
It worked perfectly no
Radiator fit very well and is functioning properly. Our Camry doesn't have the transmission cooler so the extra fittings for that are not connected and are just capped. Great price for this radiator and we are pleased with it so far. It arrived undamaged and was fairly easy to install. Will continue to order part from 1 A auto
Perfect fit. Day after installation, drove car on 2000 mile trip without a problem. Been dealing with 1A Auto for years and everything, price, fitment, shipping/delivery and parts quality makes successful repairs affordable and long lasting. 1A Auto videos are always helpful and TRQ parts quality shows QA inspections are being performed with diligence and pride. Next up for my 320000 mile 2009 Camry is a complete replacement of brake components. TRQ all the way. ,
Part fit perfectly everything fit had no problems with any bolt alignment I would definitely recommend this product if your trying to save money and you can't beat the price obviously!!! This was purchased for a 2007 Toyota Camry CE
Worked well
It Mach perfectly for my Camry 2007
It was a perfect fit exact replacement would order again if needed
Fit perfect and quickly shipping, thanks
Good radiator at a good price and also a lifetime warranty. How could you go wrong . Also very fast shipping . I check here before buying any parts !!!!!!
Direct fit great price!
It should fit your 2011 Toyota Camry. Product lookup shows it fits 2007 to 2011 models. It fit my 2007 perfectly. Look up the part number and watch the installation video.
Please provide your full vehicle information or VIN number to confirm product availability and fitment.
Our parts are exact replacements for your vehicle's OEM parts. As long as your vehicle specifications match up with our listing, these parts will directly fit and function like the originals. Yes, this part will be compatible, provided that your vehicle is a 2007 Toyota Camry U.S Built model.
Yes
Yes it does
Mine is USA built and its been in my car a while and it was easy to install, exact match and has done great so far, I pray this helps and Im not sure if the radiator is the same in both but working great in the USA built God Bless you
Thank you for the inquiry. Currently, we do not carry this part for your vehicle. This radiator is specifically for US Built Models. We're always updating our inventory so please check back soon! If you have any other questions, let us know.
This part fits the following vehicles: 2007-2009 Toyota Camry (US Built Models) Radiator L4 2.4L without Tow Package
