Replaces
Part Details
TRQ fully loaded shocks and struts are manufactured using premium raw materials and calibrated to restore original ride comfort. TRQ shocks are fully loaded featuring a pre-loaded bearing plate, upper and lower spring isolator, upper spring seat, coil spring, boot kit, and premium strut. TRQ recommends replacing your shocks or struts in pairs to ensure even wear of components and improved ride comfort. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Replacing struts used to require specialized tools to compress, remove, and transfer the old spring and mount. Our Pre-assembled, complete strut & spring assemblies come with all new parts and make the job much quicker and easier for the do-it-yourself mechanic.
Strut & spring assembly contains:
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Chromium (Hexavalent Compounds), which is known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Shipping is not available to a P.O. Box, APO/FPO/DPO addresses, US Territories, or Canada for this item.
Expedited is available on checkout to the United States, excluding Alaska, Hawaii.
Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to be working with our 1998 Toyota Camry. We're going to show you how to remove and replace the rear strut assembly, which means that our new part from 1A Auto is going to come with a new strut, a new spring and a new strut mount. What happens is, over time, these wear out and sag or become soft, which can cause our vehicle to ride lower than it's designed to. We can get a softer ride or a harsher ride. We can have poor handling, some noises in the back like some clunking over bumps, as well as having some suspension and alignment issues, which can cause odd tire wear patterns.
Fortunately, this new part is much easier and safer to replace than the old-style struts. If you like this video, please click subscribe. We have a ton more information on this car as well as many other makes and models. If you want this part for your vehicle, you can follow the link down in the description and get it from 1AAuto.com. Here are there items you'll need for this repair.
Grab onto the hub cap and remove it from the wheel. We're going to use a 21 mm socket and breaker bar to remove all five lug nuts. We'll crack them loose now, raise and support the vehicle, and then finish removing the lugs. We've put our vehicle on a lift to make it easier to film for you, but this job can be easily done with a jack and jack stands. Remove the wheel and tire.
Remove the 12 millimeter bolt, holding the brake line in place and the 10 millimeter bolt, holding the ABS sensor in place. We use a 12 millimeter socket for the brake line and a 10 millimeter socket for the ABS sensor. We'll remove both of these things. Be careful of the brake line and the sensor. We'll remove them from the strut.
Place a pair of locking pliers around the back side of the sway bar. Use a 14 millimeter socket and ratchet to remove the nut on the other side. Remove the sway bar link and the locking pliers. Remove the two 19-millimeter bolts, securing the bottom of the strut to the spindle with a breaker bar, 19 millimeter socket, and a wrench. You may need to use a cheater pipe on the breaker bar to get the leverage you need to break the nut loose. Once it's loose, we can remove the rest with a socket, ratchet and a wrench. Remove the nut and bolt, lift up on the spindle, and remove the nut. Remove the spindle from the bottom of the strut.
Find the anchor points under the seat and lift up firmly. Push the seatbelt buckles through the holes in the base of the seat cushion and remove it from the vehicle.
Using a 12 millimeter socket and ratchet, we'll remove the bottom bolt on the sides of the seat bolsters on both sides of the vehicle. We'll use a 12 millimeter socket and ratchet. Fold the seat back in. Pull some slack onto the seatbelt and push the bolster up to remove it. Again, we'll repeat this step on the opposite side.
We'll move the seatbelt out of the way. We'll wrap it around the headrest here just to give us some room to work, fold up this sound-deadening and remove these three 12 millimeter bolts with a socket and ratchet. When doing this on the ground, we'll support the strut and finish removing the last nut on our strut mount inside the vehicle. Once the nut has been removed, hold the strut and remove it from the vehicle.
Here we have our old strut that we removed from our Camry and our new part from 1AAuto.com. As you can see, these parts are exactly the same with the same mounting locations for the sway bar link, the ABS sensor and the flexible brake hose. They have the same size spring as well as the same size strut tube here. These parts are directional. You can see that these are the right side. The left would be a mirror image of what we see here. These new quick struts are already assembled with a new spring and a new strut mount, meaning that it's going to eliminate any strut-related noises we're hearing and restore our vehicle to it's factory ride height and original ride quality. These parts are simpler to install and eliminate the headache and hassle as well as the need for special tools like the old struts did where they would be replaced as a single piece as opposed to an entire assembly. If your struts are making noise, bouncing, aren't sitting at the proper ride height, or are causing you alignment issues, these new parts from 1A Auto are going to go in direct fit just like your original equipment and fix you up right.
Our new quick strut assembly comes with some new hardware. This hardware is 13 millimeters so the 12 millimeters we used to remove the nuts on the top of the strut mount inside the vehicle will now be reinstalled with a 13 millimeter socket and ratchet.
Insert the quick strut back into the strut tower in the rear of the vehicle. Line up the studs with the holes at the top. Once you have it lined up, push up and start a nut onto the strut mount to keep it in place. Lift up and realign the spindle into the base of the strut. Send your 19 millimeter bolts through and start the 19 millimeter nuts. Tighten the bolts down with a socket and ratchet. Torque these bolts to 83 foot-pounds.
Reinstall the ABS sensor bracket and the 10 millimeter bolt. Tighten that down with a 10 millimeter socket and ratchet. Carefully bend the brake hose back into place. Reinstall the 12 millimeter bolt and tighten that down with a 12 millimeter socket and ratchet. Reinstall the sway bar link into the strut. Start the 14 millimeter nut. Clamp onto the backside of the link with your locking pliers and tighten the nut with a 14 millimeter socket and ratchet.
Reinstall the wheel and tire. Get all the lug nuts down as tight as you can by hand. Lower the vehicle carefully back onto the wheel and tire. Since we've started the nuts on our strut mount, this will push the strut fully into its position and make it easier for us to tighten down the nuts at the top. Torque the lug nuts to 76 foot-pounds in a cross pattern. Line up the notch in the hubcap over the valve stem, and tap the hubcap back into place.
We'll tighten down the nuts at the top of the strut mount. Remember the new ones are 13 millimeter. We'll use a 13 millimeter socket and ratchet. This spot can be pretty tight so if you have access to gear wrenches, stubby wrenches, a short ratchet, extensions, U-joints, anything like that, do whatever you can to make it work and make these easier to access.
This slot here is where we're going to install this plastic tab on the back of the side backrest. Push in and down. Grab the back of the backrest and pull toward you to make sure it's locked into place. Now we'll reinstall our 12 millimeter bolt at the bottom. Reinstall the bottom seat cushion. Once you've got it laid into place, you'll have to reach through and pull the bottom of the belt buckles back in. There are two on the passenger side and one on the driver's. Slide the back of the seat into place. Line up the brackets and knock them in at the front and you're good to go
Thanks for tuning in. We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the struts on this '98 Toyota Camry. It’s pretty much the same for any '97 to '01 Camry with the 2.2 liter four cylinder. You'll need new struts from 1AAuto.com, 12 to 22 millimeter sockets with wrenches and ratchets and extensions, vice grips, breaker bar, hammer, and jack and jack stands.
Break all your lug nuts lose while the vehicle is still on the ground. You'll need a 21 millimeter socket and a breaker bar. Install your jack under the vehicle. Line it up with the pinch weld. Jack the vehicle up high enough that you can get a stand underneath. Making sure you have enough clearance to remove your tire or do whatever you have to do under the vehicle, install your jack stand onto this uni-body frame rail under the vehicle. If you need to work on the rear of the vehicle put your jack stand underneath and just ahead of the lower control arm here right by the tow point. Once the weight is on your stands give the vehicle a little shake to make sure they're on there secure. Repeat these steps on the opposite side. Make sure that you bring the vehicle up so that when it sits on the other set of jack stands the vehicle will be level. You can now lower your vehicle onto the stands on this side. With the vehicle raised and supported, remove your lug nuts the rest of the way. If you need a little more room to work, you can pull the hub cap off. Remove your wheel from the hub.
We've put our vehicle on a lift to make it easier to film for you, but this job can be easily done with a jack and jack stands.
This is the passenger side of our '98 Toyota Camry. Removal and installation of the strut will be exactly the same on the driver's side. Unless you're replacing your sway bar links with the strut you only have to remove the 14 millimeter nut on top and move the sway bar link out of the way. These are prone to spinning so we'll use a small pair of vice grips to clamp onto the metal collar on the back of the sway bar link. Remove the nut with the with the 14 millimeter socket and ratchet. With the nut removed you can remove your vice grips. Take the sway bar out of the strut. So with the sway bar installed, you would want to take the vice grips and clamp to this ring to keep the stud from spinning while you remove the nut.
Lift up on these tabs and remove the clip for the wheel speed sensor. Remove the 12 millimeter bolt, holding the brake line and the ABS sensor wire in place. Remove the brake hose and the sensor wire from the retainers. Allow them to hang off to the side.
Loosen the two 22 millimeter nuts from the bolts using a wrench, 22 millimeter socket and breaker bar. Once they're broken lose you can switch to a ratchet. Don't remove the nuts fully. Be sure to leave a couple of threads. The reason we didn't remove the nuts fully is these bolts tend to get stuck into the spindle. We use a hammer and tap them out. Then we can remove our nut. A little more. The reason we leave the nut on there is so we don't mushroom the end of the bolt and prevent it from coming out or going back in easily. With the nut removed, you should be able to wiggle the spindle. Remove your bolt. Repeat this process on the bottom. With the bolts removed separate your strut from the spindle.
Remove the three 14 millimeter nuts at the top of the strut using a socket and ratchet. Leave the last nut on with a few threads. Support the strut from the wheel well. Finish removing the last nut. Remove the strut spring assembly from the vehicle.
Here we have our old strut from the vehicle and our new strut from 1A Auto. As you can see, this is a spring strut assembly ready to go out of the box directly into your car. No need to compress the spring, remove the strut top, change everything over, and replace new parts. As you can see we have a new strut mount on top with new studs. We have the same spring, same upper strut mount, same spring perch. We have the same bolt locations into the spindle. The same bracket to hold our ABS wire as well as our break line. These smaller holes here are to hold the clip for the ABS wire and on the opposite side we have the ear for the sway bar link. If your old suspension is worn out, bouncy, rusted out or your ride quality just isn't what it used to be, this new strut from 1A Auto is going to go right in, direct fit like your original equipment, and fix you up right.
Reinstall your strut into the wheel well. Use the new nuts included with your new quick strut. The nuts included with the new strut are 15 millimeters so use a 15 millimeter socket and ratchet to install the new hardware. Torque the 15 millimeters nuts to 59 foot pounds.
For easiest installation make sure the steering wheel is straight so the spindle will line up with your strut. Line the spindle up. Send your bolts back through front to back. Start the nut on the back side. Tighten these back down with a 22 millimeter socket, ratchet and wrench. Using a 22 millimeter socket and torque wrench as well as a 22 millimeter wrench, torque the steering knuckle to strut bolts to 156 foot pounds.
Reinstall the hook and tab for the ABS wire. Reinstall the brake hose into its clip. Tighten down the 12 millimeter bolt with a socket and ratchet. Reinstall the clip for the ABS wire into the holes of the strut.
Reinstall your vice grips onto the sway bar link. Send the sway bar link through the strut. Tighten down the 14 millimeter nut. Use a torque wrench to tighten the nut to 29 foot pounds. Remove the vice grips.
Reinstall your wheel and tire. Start your lug nuts. Check that they're all seated. Jack up on your pinch weld. Be sure that where you jack isn't going to interfere with your ability to remove the jack stands. Bring the vehicle up until it's off the stands. Remove your stands from under the vehicle. With the stands clear, lower the vehicle. Move to the other side and repeat these steps. If you've removed a tire, only lower the vehicle until the wheel touches the ground. With partial weight of the vehicle on the ground, torque your lug nuts to 76 foot pounds in a cross pattern. Then you can remove your jack the rest of the way. Reinstall your hub cap. Align this notch with the valve stem on the wheel. Snap it back into place.
Thanks for tuning in. We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
