2012 Toyota Tacoma 4 Wheel Drive Front 4 Piece Drivetrain Kit TRQ CSA64083

Once your vehicle is raised and supported safely, you're going to remove all six lug nuts.

Now, with the wheels off, we have a clear view of what we need to do. We're going to remove this bolt right here using a 12-millimeter, and that's going to relieve this bracket. Once we've done that, we're going to move along to removing the caliper. Awesome. Now, if you look right along your caliper, you're going to see your mounting bolt right there. It's a 17, and there's a second one up higher. Get them both out of there. Just be careful not to let that caliper hang. Awesome. Grab something so you can hang this. Next, we're going to remove the rotor. This exposes the bearing. Now, it's going to be time to take off this cap. You want to be careful not to puncture it because you don't want any moisture getting inside. Just try to get something along the lip. Once you get it near there, just give it a couple of bonks and see if you can get this off. Let's get this cotter pin out of the way. Get this off of there. It's time to remove the axle nut. Let's get this nut off of here. Use a little center punch, go right in the center, obviously, and just try to drive the axle in. You want to make sure that it breaks free. If it doesn't, hit it with some penetrant, let it sit, and move along. Now, we're going to use a 17-millimeter wrench and a rubber mallet. Go ahead and put that boxed end right on the bolt right there and break it. Do the same to all. Now that we have them all broken free, just go ahead and loosen them up as far as you can get them.

Okay. Now, you may have noticed that you can get some of the bolts out further than others. Well, that's okay. What we're going to do is we're going to spray it down once again, and then we're going to give it a couple of loving bonks and just try to get the bearing away from the knuckle. Once that's completed, we'll be able to continue taking out those bolts. As you can tell, it's starting to separate right along here. That's looking great. I'm just going to come from the side now, keep trying. This is working perfectly. Go ahead and loosen up those bolts more. There it is. Just work that. If you need to replace your backing plate, now's a perfect time for it. This one seems fair. Let's just clean out this center area here. Be super careful for your ABS unit, which is right there. You can try to clean it off, but definitely don't use anything magnetic. Let me go ahead and wipe this down as well. Make sure you have any big chunks off of here. If you have any raised areas, it's going to be a major issue. If it's just a little bit of discoloration, I wouldn't necessarily worry about it, but I think I'm going to actually give this a little sanding real quick. All right. So this looks pretty great at this point. Something that I would mention is you don't want to use parts cleaner inside here, because there is actually a rubber seal and, of course, parts cleaner isn't the best for rubber. The next thing I want to mention is it's a good idea to use a little bit of copper never-seize, but go ahead and cover up that ABS sensor, just so you don't get anything on it. Once you've done that, go ahead and coat the mating surface. That looks great. And I'm also going to get right along here. Awesome. That's going to make it so this comes off much easier the next time.

Something that's really awesome is, of course, the bearing comes with the bolts, which it has to because they're captured, but it does also come with thread locker on there. So, you don't have to make the decision on whether or not you want to use it, you just go ahead and use it. I'm going to grab the backing plate. It goes just like this. We know the caliper goes on the rearward side, so that's where the cutout is going to be. Go ahead and take your bearing, slide it right over the axle splines there, give it a little spin, and line up the bolt holes. Nice. Start in all the bolts. Don't bother tightening any of them down until you have them all started. As I start snugging these up, I'm just kind of going criss-cross. And that way there, I'm kind of bringing in the bearing level and I'm making sure that I put all these bolts in instead of tightening down two and then realizing that I have two bolts jammed in. Once you have them all snugged down the best you can, obviously, it's going to be a little difficult to torque these down. They do have a torque specification, but to torque it, I just kind of have to use a wrench. You get them as tight as you can by hand. All right. Once you get it, nice and snug, just go ahead and give it a couple of bonks with your rubber mallet, okay? And I'll just keep doing that until it doesn't seem like it wants to turn. Okay. And I'm going to go criss-cross here, do the same down on the far corner.

Then if you wanted to, just go back around real quick and just double-check them. Obviously, it's integral that this is tight. Let's go ahead and get this nut on there. We're just gonna carefully bottom it out, and then we'll torque it to manufacturer specifications. The way that I like to torque this is by using a big old flat pry bar like this. I'm going to come right in between these lug studs and turn the wheel bearing so it can't turn anymore to the right. Now, I'm going to use that same 36-millimeter socket and I'm going to torque this to 173 foot-pounds. Torqued. Now that we have this nice and torqued down, let's go ahead and put on our little locking mechanism here. Just line up the slots so it lines up with the hole for the cotter pin. Make sure you pin it over. Otherwise, it's useless. And that's going to hold this from loosening up. Now, it's going to be time to get the cap back on here. Just pay special attention to make sure you didn't damage it when you were removing. If it's pinned over and you feel as though moisture can get in, obviously, you'd want to use some sort of sealer on there. You can use something such as like RTV or whatnot and just make a nice seal. This one's still in very good condition. I don't see how there'd be an issue. So, let's continue. Just going to line it up. Use my rubber mallet. Start it on there, and then I'm just going to grab onto that lip and continue that way.

Okay. So, before we go ahead and put on the rotor, we need to pay special attention to it. If it's in the same condition as this, well, it probably would be a great idea to maybe look into a brake job. But for the purpose of this video, we're just going to take the rotor that we have and make it just fine. So, this looks pretty decent in exception of we have a lot of this, a lot of crusties. If any of this was to fall down in between the wheel bearing and the hub right here, obviously, it's going to cause a major brake pulsation, and you're also more than likely have a loose wheel over time. So, get off as much of this as possible. With that said, it's not only right along inside here, but you're also going to notice inside these vented areas. If you look inside the vents, you can see that that's also very rusted as well. Are you going to be able to get it all out? No. Probably not. But you can give it a try. All right. So, we did the best we could up along here, you can go ahead and hit it with the little pry bar like that, try to get off as much as possible that way. Once you've done all that, come inside here and do the same thing. Okay. So, this is looking pretty great at this point. Now, we need to make sure we sand down this mating area. It's super important to make sure there's no raised areas at all.

All right. So, let's put a little bit of copper never-seize around this mating area. We have our freshly cleaned rotor here. There's definitely nothing that could be in between the mating surface. Once you start it on there, make sure you start on one of those lug nuts so the rotor can't move around. Let's go ahead and get this caliper back over this. Grab your two bolts. I like to use a little bit of thread locker, but we'll call it your prerogative. Go ahead and bottom those out, and then we'll torque them to manufacturer specifications. Torque these to 80 foot-pounds. Now, it's time to get this resecured. If you want to put a little bit of a copper never-seize in there, it's probably a great idea. Snug it up. And a little bit more. It's nice and secured. This looks great. Okay. We're cruising. Let's get the wheel back up on here And, of course, get all your lug nuts on and started. Let's go ahead and bottom out all the lug nuts. Okay. Now, we're going to do the same to the other side and then we're going to torque them to manufacturer specifications. All right. Let's go ahead and torque the wheel in a criss-cross pattern to 83 foot-pounds. Torqued.