Replaces
Part Details
TRQ suspension kits are manufactured using premium raw materials and coatings for extended service life. Each TRQ suspension component is designed to be a direct, maintenance-free replacement to the stock unit. To extend the life of your steering and suspension components, TRQ recommends replacing components in pairs, sets, or kits. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Install Tip: When replacing steering components, have a professional alignment performed afterwards. This ensures proper tracking and even tire wear.
Our steering and suspension components are pre-greased and sealed for long life and do not require the extra maintenance typically required by greaseable versions.
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Created on:
Tools used
Hey friends, it's Len here at 1AAuto. Today I'm working on a 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser and I'm going to be replacing the upper control alarm. It's going to be a very easy job and I want to show you how to do it. If you need this or any other part, you can always check us out at 1AAuto.com thanks.
Okay, so here we go. We're going to remove the wheel, a 21 mm socket, six lug nuts. The reason why I left this on a few threads is so I can put down the rest of the lug nuts so I have empty hands. We'll remove our wheel, set this aside so it's safe. So now that we've got the wheel off we've got a clear view of our upper control arm right here. We're going to remove this 10 mm head bolt. This just holds your ABS wire bracket. Once this is out of the way, we'll be clear to continue. So I'm just going to, you didn't see that, you should use a hammer.
Grab our bracket, this wobbles around. It's nice and free. This clip right here goes straight through the ball joint on this side, but this side right here has a little hooky-do that goes around the backside. So what you want to do is grab a small screwdriver or pick, whatever you've got, drag it out, see if I can get it now, and along the bottom side of the ball joint, just like that. Grab your cutters, don't cut it, but just kind of tug it out. That's what it looks like right there. Okay. You get the straight straight through, goes through the ball joint and you've got the hooky-do that grabs on.
We're going to remove this nut right here. The easiest way to do that would be if we didn't have the sway bar link in the way right here. If you wanted to, you could take this off and then just take out your sway bar link. It should be pretty easy. Once you do that, you'll be able to get to this very easy, or you can just use a wrench and a ratchet. You can use a ratchet and a socket. I've got my 19 mm socket, fits right on there. Wearing my safety glasses so I don't punch myself in the eye.
Give that a nice tug. I want to make sure I don't go down too far because it'll get to the point where I won't be able to get my ratchet out of there. So just make sure you pay special attention to how much space you have. Once it's loose, you can just grab it with your hand. Take it right off of there. Easy-peasy. This is a castle nut, it's got slots. You want to line the slots up with the holes in your ball joint. Let me grab my little hammer and I'm going to go ahead and give this a bonk, right on the knuckle right here. I want to be careful for the boot and I want to be careful for those threads. Super important that I don't damage the threads. I guess it doesn't really matter cause I'm replacing this anyway. Come to think of it, but if you weren't, then you want to be careful. I'm not going to worry too much about it, but basically I want a bonk right here.
I wanted to mention that you want to put your nut back on a few threads, just like that. This is so that when I break this free and this wants to come down, it can't come down and hurt me. Safety is the number one concern at 1AAuto. Now I'm just going to give this a couple bonks. I'm going to wait for it to break free. It separated right here. Still got plenty of slack on my ABS cable on my wire. Pull that up and here we are. Okay.
At this point, we want to make sure that this can't go very far because we don't want to pull our axle apart. That'll hold it enough for me. Yeah, so I'm not putting too much pressure on anything. Still nice and loose. I'm going to remove this right here and that's going to take the bracket off of the knuckle here and it's going to give us more slack on this ABS wire. We definitely want to make sure we don't put any tugs on the ABS wire. I'm removing this with a 12 mm. socket. That's what our bolt looks like. We'll set this aside.
Cool, so now this moves around, we've got plenty of slack on everything, I like it. So right behind here we've got a nut with a stud that comes out and then over here we've got a bolt end, okay. So I'm going to grab the wrench for this, 19. Now what we're going to need to do is turn this to the left counterclockwise to break it free, and get it off of there. Super tight, super-duper tight. I'm going to pop these pins real quick. I'm just going to see if I can find my tool. There we are, get that out of way, this out of the way. Very nice. We have a clear view of what's going on. I'm going to try to remove this right here. Once I removed this, I'm going to be able to hopefully move this out of the way and I'll be able to get a ratchet with a socket in there and it's gonna make my life a lot easier.
As you can tell, everything's pretty rusted here. So I'm just going to go ahead and spray everything with a little bit of penetrant spray. Let's go over here too, just because, okay. We're going to remove that. I've got my 12 mm socket. Just get it down on there. Just try to give like short vibrations essentially just to try to break it free just because I don't want to twist it. If I twist that it could break off into the frame and it's just going to cause me a headache. That's what that bolt looks like. We'll set this aside. Okay, so now this can move. Now I've got plenty of room to be able to get a bigger socket and a bigger ratchet on here and it should be a little bit easier for me. So I've got my ratchet, my 19 mm socket. This is so much easier. All it took was just a 12 mm. bolt and did a ... It really made my life easier.
So this is spinning all the way up here, so I'm going to hold that. If you wanted to use an air gun on this, you had access to it. That might be great for you. I'm just going to go ahead and do it this way since I'm almost all the way done. Remove that nut and the washer. We'll put them together so we can remember that they go together. They were happy that way been together a long time. Cool. I'm going to take this off of here. There we are.
Okay, now what should happen? You should be able to put this bolt straight up this way? Just feel around behind there. See if there's anything that feels like it's getting in your way. I'm holding the washer because obviously the washer is not going to want to go up with it. If you feel anything in your way up there, just slide it out of the way. No big deal. Easy-peasy. Good old Toyota, there we are. There's our bolt and our right front upper control arm. Easy-peasy.
Here we are friends, a quick product comparison for you. Right over here we have our original right front upper control arm out of our 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser, and over here we have our brand new quality 1AAuto part. As you can tell, these two parts are shaped the exact same. It's very important to make sure that you've got your U going in the same direction, right? The ball joints located over here and not over here. If for some reason yours is on this side, you've just got the wrong side, it's no big deal. Okay? You've got our mounting areas right here. This is where that through bolt went through. This is where it connects to the knuckle right here. The ball joint you take off this nut right here comes to the brand new nut, which is always great. Comes with a brand new boot as well. Of course, right? It's very important that it does. This has everything that we need to go ahead and complete this job, so I'm going to go ahead and install it. If you need this or any other part, you can always check us out at 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
Okay, so we've got our long bolt here. All right, it will be nice to use something like this. A little bit of Copper never seize. I'm not going to do this yet, but I am going to do it once I start getting it up into the vehicle. If I do it now, of course, then I'm going to be handling it. That's going to be a pain in the butt. So Copper never seize it would be good. You can go right up inside the tube area. This tube comes down from here diagonal, and it comes out the other end.
Okay, that's going to make this bolt come out nice and easy in the future. If we end up having to take it out again for any reason. Okay. We'll take our control arm. We want to make sure that we have our ABS wire out of the way. It goes above the control arm. We'll just set this down for now. I'm going to bring the bolt up into the fender well. Now I'm going to start sliding it right through the control arm, through that tunnel area, and then through the other end of the control arm. So I'm going to get the washer down at this end, obviously.
I'm gonna go this way. Bring this up here. There we are, okay. Then my control arm. Getting everything lined up is fun. Just spray that on there and I'm going to continue putting my bolt through and it's just going to walk along with it. It's going to come out the other end there. Here we are, clean off the excess. We don't need all that on there. Cool. So now when we go to tighten up this control arm bolt, you want to make sure that the control arm isn't sitting straight down like this.
Essentially you want the control arm to be happily sitting, imagining that the ground force was on the vehicle or the, yeah, so essentially the wheels were on the ground. Your suspension is going to kind of hold this up approximately about here. Pretty much parallel to the ground. So that's about where you want to keep it when you're tightening this up. So, however you need to make it, so it's going to stay like that. You can go ahead and use something like a ah, this is pry bar is a little long, but pry bar, just stick it through like that. That'll hold it. You of course want to make sure you're wearing safety glasses for all this. Now I'm going to take my washer and my nut. They both go together. Put that on there.
If you want to use a little bit of thread locker, you can clean this down. Use thread locker. It's up to you. Your prerogative. For the purpose of this video, I'm not going to worry about it. Here we are, I'm going to hold this side with my 19, tighten that side up with my 19 socket. Okay, getting snug here. We're going to torque this down to 85 foot pounds with our 19 mm. Get it on there. Hold the wrench side. Hold that. There we are, just going to hit it one more time, perfect. Torqued 85 foot pounds with a 19 mm. Get this out of the way. Okay, so now what we're going to do, I'm going to put a little bit of Copper never seize here. Just in the bolt hole where we took that line off or the line bracket.
The line bracket has a little ear that's going to sit inside the rearward hole and then the forward holes for the bolt. Squiggle it around. Set that in there. We're going to tighten this up. Grab this. Just going to slide these through, just like that. This one, same thing over here, just not up in there. Perfect. Now we can move ahead to the next step. There bring this over. Here we are. So we know this is gonna go like this. Just grab our new nut. Okay, cool. We'll bottom this out put the nut on here and move along to the next step. We're going to go ahead and tighten up this control arm right here. Upper ball joint to the knuckle. Just going to take a peek.
Okay, now we'll torque it to 81 foot pounds. The hole in the ball joint stud doesn't line up with the slots and the upper ball joint nut. So now what we need to do is continue turning that clockwise until the next slot lines up with the hole. Continue with our ratchet. I'm just going to bring this, like I said, so the slot matches up with the hole and we're going to take our little clip, put it through, just like this and then bring it up and you should want to grab into one of those little slots. Now it's going nowhere. It's happy there. Perfect. We'll put it in this upper bolt. I'll just use a little bit of Copper never seize there it's your prerogative if you want to. We've got our 10 mm head bolt.
We're gonna line up this bracket. Try and get our bolt going straight here we are, just get our sway bar link in there. There we are. If you want to, you could use a little thread locker on this. It's up to you, and I tighten that down. 18 mm. There we are. Tight, tight, can move along to the next step right down here. That's a 12 mm. I'll grab my 12 mm socket. If you wanted to put a little Copper never seize into the knuckle on this, that's up to you. Might make it so this comes out easy someday down the line. A lot of times they like to break off into the knuckle and you'll have to drill and tap and it becomes a little bit of a pain in the butt. Okay bottomed out. I'm just going to give it a little bit and that's enough. We don't want to break it off. Okay, now we'll just feel around, make sure everything's secured. You definitely want to make sure that your ABS wire is nice and secured. It's not hanging off anywhere.
This one looks like it's doing all right. All right, let's move to the next step. Okay, so now we're going to put the wheel up onto the rotor/hub area. To do that, these wheels can be fairly heavy. I'm just going to show you something. You want to make sure you have a couple lug nuts in your hand here. It's going to be helpful. You're going to take it, roll it up against your leg, just like this. Now you're going to use your leg/core muscles, abs, whatever, to roll it up your leg and then lift with your leg and ab muscles instead of using your back. Now we're just going to get one of these lug nuts started on here. Once we have a few good threads, we can release the wheel if we need to. I have a couple lug nuts, so I'm just going to hold it.
We know the wheel can't go anywhere. Now I can grab the rest of my lug nuts and start all those on. Now all that we're going to do is bottom them out. We're going to go in a crisscross pattern or I guess in this we would look more like a snowflake. Okay, so here, here, here, here, here, here. We're never going to go around in a circle. You do that. It could kick your wheel off to the side. Think you have it tight. Even go ahead and torque it down. Think it's tight. Drive it down the road, hit a bump. Next thing you know it breaks free. Okay? So make a nice little snowflake.
Okay, they're all bottomed out. We can move to the next step of torquing them. Okay, so now we're going to torque up the wheel. We're going to use our 21 mm socket. We're going to go on a crisscross pattern, snowflake, call it whatever you want, 85 foot pounds. That one's a little looser than I could have had it, but that's all right. There we are. You want to go around again? Go around again. There we are. Easy-peasy.
Thanks for watching. Visit 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts shipped to your door. The place for DIY auto repair, and if you enjoyed this video, please click the subscribe button.
Tools used
Hey, friends. It's Len here from 1A Auto. Today, we're gonna be working on our 2006 Toyota 4Runner. And I want to show you how to replace your outer tie rod ends. If you need these or any other parts, check us out, 1aauto.com. Thanks. Okay. Friends, so it's time to remove our wheel. To do that, you're gonna remove all of your lug nuts, you can use a 21-millimeter socket. If you're gonna be using a ratchet it might be easier to do this while the wheel is still on the ground so it can't spin while you try to loosen up your lug nuts. I'm using an air gun, so I've got my eye protection, my hand protection. Here we go. This one I'm gonna leave on a few threads. Now I have a spare hand will try to wiggle this around. A lot of times on Toyotas they don't want to break for you right away. It's not really that big of a deal, you could use something as simple as a rubber mallet or if you have a pry bar. Either way, what you want to do is make sure you have a lug nut on, at least a couple threads but it's still nice and loose.
I'll come right under here, I'm gonna bonk right on the edge of the rim. Okay, if you're using a real hammer that's not a rubber mallet, definitely don't hit your rim you'll mar it up, cause issues. You could try bonking on the tire you just have to be careful because when you bonk it's gonna want to come back. Rubber mallet right on the rim. There we are. That lug nut did his job, made it so the wheel didn't come falling off and hurt anybody. Super important, safety is number one. Take our wheel off and we'll roll it out of the way. Okay, so right here is your tie rod jam nut, we're gonna use a little bit of penetrant spray. That's gonna do its job, work its way into the threads right here.
Nice long set of pliers, it's gonna grab right onto that jam nut, break it free just like that. I'm gonna remove this cotter pin right here, if you have access to new ones go ahead and cut it. If you have to reuse it, well, obviously, don't cut it. But I do have access to new ones so I'm just gonna cut it right out of there. I'm gonna remove this now. I've got my 19-millimeter socket and an extension, I'm using an air gun but you can, of course, use a ratchet. You do you, boo-boo. Now I'm gonna take a hammer and I'm gonna give the knuckle a couple of bumps just right up along here. I'm gonna be careful not to try to damage my nut, the threads of my tie rod, or of course, break the boot. Maybe it matters, maybe it doesn't to you. That broke free. The reason for putting that out on there like that is just so when it did break free, it didn't come falling down, potentially hurt me, break anything, super important.
Now we're gonna take our tie rod and we're gonna count how many times we come all the way around to the straight-up position. And you're also gonna take note that when you took the tie rod out, the stud was going up through the knuckle not down. Ready? 1, 2, and so on 3, 15. So it took 15 turns to go from straight up and down all the way around to straight up and down as it came off. Keep that in mind. Write it down if you can't remember, that's fine. I'm just gonna give this a little blast of Never-Seez just like that, jam nut. It's probably pretty decent. Okay, so we're gonna get this outer tie rod end on here. We're gonna count it out for our 15, right? So we'll find where it starts. Okay, here it started. 1, 2, 3 and so on 15. So that's our 15.
Slide this up and into its hole, that's where it's happy. You want to make sure that this hole is facing front to back, it's gonna make your life easier. If it isn't, just bonk this out, grab down here on the stud, grab some pliers and just twist it, it should turn fairly easily. Brand new slotted slash castle nut. So we're just gonna snug this up using our 21-millimeter socket. Okay, that's fairly snug. Let's find the torque specification, we'll torque it down. Okay, so it's time to torque down our outer tie rod end nut. We're gonna torque it to 67-foot-pounds. Just check it one more time. Awesome.
So now what we're gonna do is we're gonna take a look at our tie rod jam nut here and we're gonna see if it lines up with where it's supposed to. If it doesn't line up between the hole and one of the slots, you need to continue on to the next hole by tightening. You never want to loosen it up to the next hole or to the hole previous, I guess you would say. You want to continue tightening until you get to the next hole. All right. So let's get one of these slots lined up with the hole. I got my 21 socket, it's pretty close. Perfect.
I'm gonna install the cotter pin straight through just like this. Then use my cutters, you can use pliers or whatever you want. You can probably you can use your fingers for these things. You just kind of bend them so that the ears come up and over the top. Some people like to go from one side to the other side, you could do whatever you want as long as the ears that come out the other end are bent to the point that the cotter pin cannot come out. The cotter pin is what locks this nut in. If the cotter pin for some reason came out, the nut came loose, your tie rod end falls down, your wheel can do whatever it wants to do, so we'll prevent that. That looks good.
We're gonna go ahead and snug up this jam nut real quick, that feels good. Just grab the tie rod, move around a little bit, maybe. Okay, I've got it, so it's pretty much straight. That looks good. It's gonna move around as we drive anyway, it's gonna do its own thing, but anyway. So we know that this is tight, we know that this is tight, let's move along. Now we're gonna grab our wheel. These wheels can be heavy and I don't want you hurt yourself so instead of grabbing your wheel like this and trying to lift with your back and potentially hurting yourself, I'll show you a little secret. You take your leg, assuming you're not worried about your pants getting a little dirty, I'm just gonna grab it like this, roll it right up your leg.
And now you can use your legs/ab muscles to lift it right up, use your leg to hold it. Balance it. See? That works pretty good. I'm gonna take my lug nut, my socket, put it right on here. Now that we know we've got one locked in, we can release it, grab the rest of our lug nuts. We're gonna start all these on. We'll bottom them out and then we'll torque them down. All right, so let's bottom out these lug nuts. Perfect. We'll get this down on the ground and we'll torque them down to manufacturer's specifications. Okay, friends, let's get our torque down. We've got our 21-millimeter socket, we've got our torque wrench set to 83-foot-pounds. We're gonna go in a crisscross manner. Okay. I'm just gonna go around one more time. It's a small price to pay for safety. Awesome.
Thanks for watching. Visit 1a auto.com for quality auto parts shipped to your door, the place for DIY auto repair. And if you enjoyed this video, please click the subscribe button.
Tools used
Hey, friends. It's Lenny here from 1A Auto. Today, we're gonna be working on our 2006 Toyota 4Runner. And I wanna show you how to replace your inner tie rod ends. If you need these or any other parts, check us out, 1aauto.com. Thanks.
Okay, friends. So, it's time to remove our wheel. To do that, you're gonna remove all of your lug nuts. Gonna use a 21 millimeter socket. If you're gonna be using a ratchet, it might be easier to do this while the wheel is still on the ground so it can't spin while you try to loosen up your lug nuts. I'm using an air gun so I've got my eye protection, my hand protection. Here we go. This one I'm gonna leave on a few threads. I have a spare hand. Try and wiggle this around. A lot of times on Toyotas, they don't want to break free right away. That's not really that big of a deal. You could use something as simple as a rubber mallet or if you have a pry bar. Either way, what you want to do is make sure you have a lug nut on at least a couple threads but it's still nice and loose. Come right under here. I'm gonna bonk right on the edge of the rim, okay? If you're using a real hammer that's not a rubber mallet, definitely don't hit your rim. You'll mar it up, cause issues. You could try bonking on the tire. You just have to be careful because when you bonk it's gonna wanna come back. Rubber mallet right on the rim. There we are. That lug nut did its job, made it so the wheel didn't come falling off and hurt anybody. Super important. Safety is number one. Take our wheel off. And we'll roll it out of the way.
Okay. So, right here is you tie rod jam nut. We're gonna use a little bit of penetrant spray. That's gonna do its job, work its way into the threads right here. Nice long set of pliers. Just gonna grab right onto that jam nut. Break it free just like that. I'm gonna remove this cotter pin right here. If you have access to new ones, go ahead and cut it. If you have to reuse it, well, obviously don't cut it. But I do have access to new ones so I'm just gonna cut it right out of there. I'm gonna remove this now. I've got my 19 millimeter socket and an extension. I'm using an air gun but you can of course use a ratchet. You do you, boo boo. Now I'm gonna take a hammer and I'm gonna give the knuckle a couple bonks just right up along here. I'm gonna be careful not to try to damage my nut, the threads of my tie rod will of course break the boot. Maybe it matters, maybe it doesn't to you. That broke free. The reason for putting that on there like that is just so when it did break free, it didn't come falling down, potentially hurt me, break anything. Super important.
Now we're gonna take our tie rod and we're gonna count how many times we come all the way around to the straight up position and you're also gonna take note that when you took the tie rod out, the stud was going up through the knuckle, not down. Ready? One, two, and so on, three. Fifteen. So, it took 15 turns to go from straight up and down all the way around to straight up and down as it came off. Keep that in mind. Write it down if you can't remember. That's fine. So, now we're just gonna put some locking pliers on the inner tie rod end. Get it as tight as you can. The size of this jam nut right here is a 22 millimeter. So, I'm gonna use my socket and of course my air gun. You can use whatever you have to. But this is a 22 millimeter. Got our jam nut. Remove these. Next, what we're gonna do is we're gonna remove this clamp right here. And it's just a little squeezy clamp. It's gonna loosen up as we squeeze. We'll remove it from the bellows boot. That comes right off. Inspect your clamp. Make sure it's still in good condition, still in good working order. If you squeeze it and it doesn't return, replace it. You can use whatever you want for a clamp. If you needed to and in a pinch, you could use something as simple as a wire tie. This one looks reusable so we'll set it aside. We'll grab right onto this upper lip right here with my pry bar and I'm gonna try to give it a couple bonks with a hammer. Okay. Seems like it's starting to wanna break free. Let's see. I don't wanna do anymore bonking than I have to so I'm just gonna keep checking it. It's definitely getting a little looser or a little more loose I should say. But I wanna keep going. Just need this clamp to wanna let go. So, here's our clamp. This went up and around the bellows boot. This was part of this, okay? So, what I did is I just kinda tried to bonk on this ear right here. Bonk, bonk, bonk, bonk, bonk, until it finally just let go. This is a one time use only clamp. At this point, you can grab your bellows boot, you can twist it all around and it's pretty much ready to come off. So, we're gonna be careful because as we try to twist and pull, we could catch our arm up on the skid plate and it might be sharp. So, just be as safe as you can. Give a little pull. Give a little twist. If it doesn't seem like this end wants to come off just give it a little push. Just gonna work it in there. And here my friends is your steering bellows boot.
So, I went ahead and I grabbed our new quality 1A Auto inner tie rod end here. And I just wanted to show you what we're gonna be dealing with. You're gonna have something that looks like this on your old part over there. This is the lock washer. What happens is it has these ears right here peened over into this groove and this groove. And that just kinda locks it in because you also have these that slide into slots on the rack which I'll show you in a second. I just wanted to show you what you're dealing with. This is pretty much what it looks like right here except the ears aren't bent in. So, what we need to do to unlock this inner tie rod end is to drive these back out and away from the tie rod and then at that point we can use a tool and we'll unscrew the inner tie rod end from the rack. So, I'm gonna go right on that ear, just drive it away from the inner tie rod end. Same to the other one. Something that's good to mention also is that we turned the steering wheel all the way to the left and that brought our inner tie rod end out further instead of being tucked in way inside here where we have a hard time getting to it. So, just turn your wheel to the left. That'll bring the inner tie rod end out to where you can deal with it a little bit better.
So, now we're gonna use this clamp looking tool. All right. You'll notice on the tool it has these knurls right along here and then some up all along this. And that's great because what we're gonna do, we're gonna go right over the inner tie rod end until we get up to the big part here. Then what we're gonna do is tighten up these nuts. I'm gonna use my 13 millimeter socket. So, it's pretty darn tight here. Last thing we want is the tool slipping and stripping out our nice knurls. That's definitely tight. Awesome. So, you can see right here you have an area for a three-eights ratchet. I actually prefer to go with something a little bit different. I have myself an adapter and an extension and then I grabbed a nice long half inch ratchet because I need some leverage here. We're gonna turn this to the left. All right. That just broke free, the inner tie rod end. Can almost get it all the way off. It's all right. This has to come off the tie rod anyway. We're not leaving it on there when we recycle the tie rod, so. Just take this back off. So, that's our tool. 1aauto.com. Here's our inner tie rod end.
So, what we're gonna do now is we're gonna take the majority of this nice new grease that 1A Auto provided us. We're just gonna put this right inside with that tie rod end. I'm gonna keep some of this grease because we're gonna use it in a minute and I'll show you when. I'm just gonna use my gloved finger here. Just put it all along here. This is gonna help with lubricating it as it moves around. Obviously an inner tie rod end isn't gonna go, it just kinda does, like, couple, you know, teeny movements at this pivot point right here, okay? But it will work its way in there over time. Now what we're gonna do is we're gonna take our lock in washer, slide it right over this just like this. And what the lock in washer is gonna do is it's gonna make it so we don't have to use any thread locker on this. As long as you have your lock on washer on there, which you should because I'm showing you, use your locking washer, you don't have to use any thread locker.
So, we're just gonna get this jam nut off of here. We don't need that on there right now. We'll set it aside because we will be using it. This right up here. Just gonna see if I can get this started on. All right. So, we've got the inner tie rod end started into the rack. Now we're gonna pay attention to the locking washer. As you press it up against the rack and spin it, you'll notice that it latches in and that's just those two little ears latching into the power steering rack. Now we're gonna snug up this inner tie rod end. Just get it as tight as we can by hand. That's pretty great. Now we're gonna grab our 1A Auto inner tie rod end tool and we'll snug this up the rest of the way. I'm gonna try to start this as far as I can all the way over in this direction because as I tighten it's gonna wanna swing around this way and I don't wanna get it caught on this. Obviously we wanna make sure this is tight just like when we were removing the old one. See about getting this in here. Let's see what we can do. Feels pretty great. It does have that locking washer on there. So, as long as its bottomed out and then a little further, just a teeny bit further, it should be all right because it can't loosen up once you have that locking washer on there. I'm gonna grab my small hammer. We're getting pretty close here. This is right peened right over up against the flat area of the inner tie rod end. And now it's locked in. I'm gonna do the same to the upper portion and we can continue.
Just gonna use these pliers, grab that last ear, crimp that down. Oh, yeah. Perfect. So, now we're just gonna use a little bit more of this grease that we got. It's gonna go right up along here. You can see where the line is right there and that's just kinda telling you where the bellows boot's gonna sit when you're done. So, I like to put some lube right along there and that's just gonna help the alignment specialist later on down the line. So, I'm gonna take a wire tie, just bring it right around like this and just get it so it's kinda sitting there hanging out. It's not tight or anything. It's not crimping down this boot. It's just waiting. So, now when I install it into the vehicle, this is already gonna be on and I don't have to worry about trying to finagle my hands around anything while I'm in there. Just gonna go just like this. Get this started. I'm gonna bring this boot all the way so it lines up right where that edge is, okay? So, now what we're gonna do is we're gonna straighten out the wheel of the vehicle so that it's gonna be ready to go in a straight line. And at that point, this is gonna be pulled all the way in, right? Or I guess half way in because if it went all the way it would be turned to the right. We want it to just be so the steering wheel's straight. So, now we're gonna take the inner portion of this boot, slide it onto the rack. You should feel it click in, give it a nice little tug. That feels good. So, we got the outer portion sitting just past where that little groove was in the inner tie rod end and we have the inner portion where it's all the way up against the rack, all the way into its groove up there. Use some long nosed pliers or needle-nose pliers. Give this a nice little twist around. Regroup. Do it again. Awesome. Cut off the excess if you want or leave it on. It's hidden. But I prefer to just take it off. We'll get our clamp. That's up on there. That looks good. This moves as it should. Awesome.
Just gonna give this a little blast of Never-Seez just like that. Jam nut. That's probably pretty decent. Okay. So, we're gonna get this outer tie rod end on here. We're gonna count it out for our 15, right? So, we find where it starts. Okay. Here it started. One, two, three, and so on. Fifteen. So, that's our 15. Slide this up and into its hole, it's where it's happy. You wanna make sure that this hole is facing front to back. It's gonna make your life easier. If it isn't, just bonk this out, grab down here on the stud, grab some pliers and just twist it. It should turn fairly easily. Brand new slotted/castle nut. So, we're just gonna snug this up using our 21 millimeter socket. Okay. That's fairly snug. Let's find the torque specification. We'll torque it down.
Okay. So, it's time to torque down our outer tire rod end nut. We're gonna torque it to 67 foot-pounds. Just check it one more time. Awesome. So, now what we're gonna do is we're gonna take a look at our tie rod jam nut here and we're gonna see if it lines up with where it's supposed to. If it doesn't line up between the hole and one of the slots, you need to continue on to the next hole by tightening. You never want to loosen it up to the next hole or to the hole previous I guess you would say. You want to continue tightening until you get to the next hole. All right. So, let's get one of these slots lined up with the hole. Got my 21 socket. It's pretty close. Perfect. I'm gonna install the cotter pin straight through just like this. I'm gonna use my cutters. You can use pliers or whatever you want. You could probably even use your fingers for these things. You just kinda bend them so that the ears come up and over the top. Some people like to go from one side to the other side. You can do whatever you want as long as the ears that come out the other end are bent to the point that the cotter pin cannot come out. The cotter pin is what locks this nut in. If the cotter pin for some reason came out, the nut came loose, your tie rod end falls down, your wheel can do whatever it wants to do. So, we'll prevent that. That looks good. We're gonna go ahead and snug up this jam nut real quick. That feels good. Just grab the tie rod, move that around a little bit. Maybe. Okay. I've got it so it's pretty much straight. That looks good. It's gonna move around as we drive anyway. It's gonna do its own thing. But anyway. So, we know that this is tight. We know that this is tight. Let's move along.
Now we're gonna grab our wheel. These wheels can be heavy and I don't want you to hurt yourself. So, instead of grabbing your wheel like this and trying to lift with your back and potentially hurting yourself, I'll show you a little secret. Take your leg, assuming you're not worried about your pants getting a little dirty. Just gonna grab it like this, roll it right up your leg, and now you can use your leg/ab muscles to lift it right up. Use your leg to hold it. Balance it. See? That works pretty good. I'm gonna take my lug nut, my socket, put it right on here. Now that we know we've got one locked in, we can release it. Grab the rest of our lug nuts. We're gonna start all these on. We'll bottom them out and then we'll torque them down. All right. So, let's bottom out these lug nuts. Perfect. We'll get this down on the ground and we'll torque them down to manufacture specifications.
Okay, friends. Let's get our torque down. We've got our 21 millimeter socket. We've got our torque wrench set to 83 foot-pounds. We're gonna go in a crisscross manner. Okay. I'm just gonna go around one more time. It's a small price to pay for safety. Awesome.
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