2011 Toyota Prius Front Driver & Passenger Side 2 Piece Wheel Bearing & Hub Assembly Set TRQ BHA53776

Hi, I’m Mike from 1A Auto. We’ve been selling auto parts for over 30 years!

Going to use a small pry bar or you can use a large flat bladed screwdriver. Going to pop the wheel cover off. We're going to loosen the axle nut with the wheel on the ground so it doesn't spin on you. First I need to unstake the axle nut. So it's been staked in there so it can't come off. Once we punch that out, we can use the socket to remove the axle nut. Just going to use a small punch and a hammer. That should do the trick.

Just going to spray some rust penetrant on here to help it spin. Going to use a 30 millimeter 12 point socket. Use a long breaker bar. The reason why I like to loosen the axle nut with the wheel still on and the vehicle on the ground is that these are on here with a lot of torque. You're not going to rock the vehicle off the jack stands, and you don't need a second person to step on the brake and to keep that axle from spinning on you while trying not to ruin the nut. There it goes. Just get it fairly loose. Don't have to take it all the way off, but you want to make sure it's loose enough so that when your vehicle's in the air, you'll be able to get it off without spinning the axle and the brake around. Going to use a 21 millimeter socket and a large breaker bar loosen the lug nuts with the vehicle on the ground so the vehicle doesn't turn.

Raise and support your vehicle with a jack and jack stands. We're going to use our two post lift. With the vehicle in the air, the lug nuts are loose. I'm going to use the socket to finish taking the wheel and tire off. Loosen the 12 millimeter bolts that's holding on the ABS wire and the brake hose to the strut body. Using a 12 millimeter ratcheting wrench. Pull this aside and unhook it. Use this cook tool to unhook this from the strut body. This is the ABS wire. Just pop it out. Pull that aside.

Use a 22 millimeter socket, long breaker bar, I'm going to turn on the nut here for the two strut bolts. Going to loosen both of these up. If the bolt starts to spin, I'll put a 22 millimeter box wrench on either end to counterhold it. I'm going to try to loosen it first. Just be careful you don't smash the fender with your breaker bar.

Going to switch to a ratchet and make this go a little quicker. The other one loose. Before I can remove the caliper, I need to remove the bolt holding the bracket for the soft line here for the brake hose. Because without it, with it bolted here I won't be able to move the caliper far enough to hang it off of the strut and get it out of the way. It is a 12 millimeter bolt.

I'm going to use a 12 millimeter socket, extension, and ratchet, and loosen this bolt. Take the bolt out. Now the hose will be loose. Going to use a small pry bar to compress the caliper a little bit so that it's easier to pull off. Oops. Just gently pressing it. Squeezing the piston in. That should be enough.

I just wanted to have some movement so I can slide it off. Going to turn this knuckle out. So I can have better access to the upper and lower caliper bolts. These are 17 millimeter. I'm just going to use a 17 millimeter deep socket because it acts like a little extension, or you can use a regular size 17 millimeter socket with a short extension.

I'm going to use a ratchet to remove them. Get that one free and the lower one free. Just switch to shorter ratchet to remove these quicker. Got to hold on the caliper so it doesn't fall. The rotors loose too, so be careful. Don't let that fall. I'm going to take our caliper. I've got a bungee cord ready around our strut and we're just going to hang it right here in place. It'll hang up and out of the way. This rotors nice and loose.

If it was seized to the hub, you can put a couple six millimeter bolts in here and push it off, but this one's going to come right off for us. We got lucky. So these are the backside bolts that are holding in our hub. There's four of them. I'm going to try to spray some rust penetrant on here. They are pretty rusty. Before I take the knuckle out of the strut and push this axle out of the back of the hub, I'm going to try to loosen the four wheel bearing bolts so they're 14 millimeter.

I'm going to use a 14 millimeter deep socket. Just give me a little bit of an extension to it. Break them free. That one pretty loose. I'm going to loosen this one. I'm going to turn the knuckle so I can get to the other two. Best I can. I don't have a lot of leverage on it. They're kind of hard to see. They're on the other side. Just opposite of the other two.

So I'm going to do, these are coming out fairly easily. I can't quite get to this one because the axles in the way. I'm going to lower, remove the two strut bolts that are holding the knuckle to the strut. I'll move the knuckle down and push the axle out of the back of the hub. Then I'll have access to that bolt. All right. So I'll take these out.

That lower one is free. Lower this down. This axles in here. It's pretty well free. If yours is stuck, you'll have to spray some rust penetrant in here and hit it out and break it free. We did it earlier with the brake rotor and caliper on here. It's not a big deal. It'll be the exact same thing with those removed. So once this is loose, I can spin this nut off.

We'll push this axle through and pull the axle out of the hub. Use the dead blow and just tap it out. There it goes. Push this aside. Now I can get to the other wheel hub bolt. It's a steel hub and bearing assembly and it sits inside an aluminum knuckle so it has corroded a bit to the outside edge. Now I did leave, you can see the ABS sensor. So the backside of this is a magnet, and that's an ABS wheel speed sensor. It picks up on this magnet. I did leave that in place. It shouldn't be a problem.

If you're worried about it, you can remove it. But what I'm going to do is tap on these bolts because they are threaded into the hub and bearing assembly. I'm going to try to push them out by tapping on those. I'm going to tap on these bolts with a small hammer. Push this out of the way. To avoid damaging the ABS sensor, it comes through here and picks up on the magnet on the wheel bearing, I'm going to remove it from the knuckle. It's out here. It's a 10 millimeter bolt.

Use a 10 millimeter socket, extension, and ratchet. Loosen the bolts. Carefully remove. Don’t pull on the wire. Try to wiggle it back and forth and then pull it out. Then I'll just put this aside so it won't be damaged. I'm going to try to scrape out some of this stuff here so that I can get some rust penetrant in between the two. Going to use our torch, and we're going to heat the aluminum part of the knuckle up to try to get it to expand and allow the rusty wheel bearing part to come out. Also maybe in that gap I can spray some rust penetrant in there to help them slide apart.

So we're just going to heat this up evenly. Trying to keep it away from any rubber stuff like the ball joints and the tire rod ends. I don't want to ruin those. I don't want to ruin our CV axle goop. This is why I remove the ABS sensor. It's just plastic. I don't want to melt it. Going to try to tap on these. Going to remove the bolts.

Let's see, they're pretty loose but they are hot. Spin them out of here. Hopefully with them free, I can tap on this and try to spin it to break the seal. Just be careful while you're doing this because it might still be very warm.

This is a bolt-in wheel bearing. So you should be able to replace on the car. Once you unbolt it, it should simply slide apart. However, this vehicle has been on the road quite awhile. Rust built here. The aluminum has corroded, the steel has rusted, and now they're stuck together.

So I'm going to have to take the whole knuckle off of the vehicle and put it in the shop press. I know a lot of people don't have access to that, but unfortunately that's the way we're going to have to get this apart. I'm going to undo the tire end and then unbolt the ball joint from the control arm and bring it over to the shop press.

Need to remove this cotter pin. I'm just using a pick to pry it out. Out and up just like that. Then just work it out, put it aside, and we can reuse it. Spray some rust penetrant on here. So when I try to remove this ball joint nut, it's going to want to rock around. So what I'm going to do is just stand this up. I'm just going to put this axle in just temporarily. Ideally, you'd remove the tire rod end beforehand, but since this is not going the way it should, we have to back track a little bit.

So I'm just going to put it up into the strut. A single bolt through. So this will hold in place while I loosen that nut. So this nut is 17 millimeter. You can use a short socket or a deep socket. Doesn't really matter. I happen to have the deep socket handy. Get this off. Going to use a ball joint separator tool. Just because this knuckle is aluminum, I don't want to smash this with a hammer. We could shatter the aluminum. So going to want to use a separator tool. Just get it set up in place.

Going to use the appropriately sized socket for your tool. Those usually snap out with quite a bit of force. Basically separating it from this taper. So I can put that aside now. Instead of separating this ball joint from the knuckle, I'm simply going to unbolt it from the control arm. There's two 17 millimeter nuts and the 17 millimeter bolt. We'll just remove them. Loosen them all up.

So now the knuckle is basically only being held in by this upper bolt so we're going to take it out. Slide this out. It's also on the CV axle. So going to pull it out. Tap it out. There's a knuckle and wheel bearing assembly. We've got this set up with different press tools. That's going to bend that a little bit.

Take our press pieces out of here. Bent the dust shield a little bit, not a big deal, can bend it back. Take it out of the way so you can see what was going on. That's all rusty. This is aluminum. It basically was stuck in there. So I'm going to clean that up as best I can, and we'll put the new on in and reinstall it in the vehicle. Just going to spray some rust penetrant on here. Use some emery clothe and just clean it up.

This is the original wheel bearing pulled from the vehicle. A brand new one here from 1AAuto.com. Same style bolt in wheel bearing. Spin this around. So two of the holes are close together and two of them are wider same as the original. Comes with the wheel studs installed. This will fit great and work great in your vehicle.

It has the magnetic backing for the ABS wheel speed sensor. All right. We're going to put some white grease on the inside of the bore. This way the wheel bearing and hub assembly will slide into place easier. Don't forget to reinstall your dust shield. It does go underneath the wheel bearing. Line it up with the holes. Then we're going to line up the appropriate holes. There are two that are closer together. Those go towards the top. Get it lined up. Push it down into place evenly.

If it doesn't go all the way in easily, that's fine. Going to put one of the bolts through. Use the bolts to draw it into place. Getting all the bolts caught and just drawing the wheel bearing and hub assembly in evenly using the bolts. Torque these bolts to 30 foot-pounds. Once it clicks, you're all set. I'll just do them in a cross pattern. Make sure they go evenly.

Reinstall the knuckle and going to push the CV axle in. Lift it up and get it started on the control arm. Push the control arm down. Capture one of these nuts here so it doesn't come out. Just going to temporarily put the knuckle into the strut, and put one of these bolts in here. The axle nut on. This will just be temporary for now. I'll tighten it up later, but in case I'm moving this around, the axle won't pop out.

I'm going to put the tie rod end back in the knuckle. Slide it up into place. Push it up as far as I can get it to go and reinstall the nut. Tighten this up. Tap the ball joint up into the knuckle here to try to catch the taper some more because I'm trying to tighten the nut, and it’s spinning on the ball joint. Just get it seeded in there. Get this tightened down.

So the cotter pin hole lines up with the opening in the castle nut. Little bit more turned. Right there. Reinstall the cotter pin. This is a special style. Goes through and then you flip it over. Might have to bend it out a little bit. There's a grove in the edge of the castle nut. Use a little flat bladed screwdriver just to help pop it down, and then it locks in place like that. Get these nuts and bolts snug and then I will torque them. Going to torque these two nuts and the bolt to 66 foot-pounds. Get the other bolt in place. Wiggle it around. Get the two nuts started for now.

Reinstall the ABS wheel speed sensor. I put the bolt in here so it wouldn't get lost, so I'm just going to spin it out. Slide it into place. Reinstall the bolt. Just gently tighten it. Feel it get tight, and just stop. You don't want to break the bolt off. It's a very small bolt. It doesn't take a lot of torque. So we'll put our brake rotor in place. Just in case we touched it with some greasy fingerprints. We'll use some brake parts cleaner, just clean those off.

Reinstall it on the hub. Same. To keep it from flopping around, I'll put a lug nut on here to make it easier to reinstall the brake caliper. I'm not fighting with the brake rotor moving around. Pull the brake caliper down off the bungee cord. Take the bungee cord out so I don't forget it. It's going to slide with the pads in place right over the brake rotor. Get the top bolt caught. Might have to move the brake caliper around. Get that one started and get the bottom one started. Get these tightened, and then I'll come back and torque them. Going to torque the lower and upper caliper mounting bolts to 101 foot-pounds.

Reinstall the bolt that holds the brake hose to the knuckle. Tighten this up. Don't want to over tighten it. Don't want to break the bolt. Once you feel it get tight, just stop. So take off the lug nut now. All right. Put the brake line back in place on the bracket. Kind of slides up behind here. If there's key, key that it sits into. Sits like that. This bracket goes on top of it.

Install the original bolt. Tighten this up. Until feel it get tight, I'll stop. Don't forget to clip this back into the strut. Your ABS wire so it's not hanging loosely. Counterhold the bolt and tight the nut. Do this for both of the bolts. Counterhold the bolts and use a torque wrench, torque the nuts and strut bolts to 177 foot-pounds. Snug the axle nut down. Torque it with the wheel on and the vehicle on the ground, but I want to get it down so it's tight enough to put the wheel back on.

Reinstall the wheel. Start the lug nuts by hand. These lug nuts do have a shoulder on them. The opening of the wheel is a little bit bigger, so you might have to line it up and just kind of fiddle with the wheel a little bit while you're tightening these down.

Just going to use the socket and snug these down. When I'm done, lower the vehicle to the ground and torque them to spec. Going to torque the lug nuts in a cross pattern to 76 foot-pounds. Going to torque the axle nut to 159 foot-pounds. Reinstall the wheel cover. Line up the hole for the valve stem. Then snap it in place.

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