2014 Toyota Rav4 All Wheel Drive Rear Driver & Passenger Side 2 Piece Wheel Bearing & Hub Assembly Set TRQ BHA53771

What's up, guys? I'm Andy from 1A Auto. In this video I'm going to show you how to replace the rear hub bearing on this 2010 Toyota RAV4. If you need this part or other parts for your vehicle, click the link in the description and head over to 1aauto.com.

I'm going to remove the wheel. I'm using a 21 millimeter socket and an air gun. If you don't have an air gun, you can remove it on the ground with a breaker bar, before you raise the vehicle up.

That wheel wasn't too difficult to get off. If you do have trouble getting it off, you can just put a lug nut on there and hit the back of the tire with a hammer. Generally, that gets them off. Now I just want to compress this caliper a little bit, just to make it easier to pull off. Just take a straight blade screwdriver. Get in here, just try to pry it out a little bit. That'll just make the pad slide off easier. Now I'm going to take these two bolts out. I'm going to use a 14 millimeter socket and ratchet, break these free. And then, if the slide starts spinning, you can use a wrench on that slide. Before I take that one out, break the top one free.

Now I'll just take these bolts out, slide those out. And you can grab the caliper, and you want to use some type of a caliper hook. We actually sell these at 1aauto.com. And we'll just hook this onto the spring, right here, that way it keeps the tension off the hose. You don't ever want to just let the caliper hang from the hose, because it could damage the hose.

Next I'm just going to remove these pads. Just grab the pads and slide them out. Just like that. Set them aside. Then I'm going to take a 17 millimeter socket and ratchet, and loosen these two bolts up that hold this bracket on. They're pretty tight, so if you need to use a breaker bar to break them free. To make it easier, I'm just going to use an electric ratchet.

This rotor is stuck on there pretty good. There is these two little threaded holes. What you can do is find a bolt that's going to work with those threads, and then take a, well depending on the bolt, I'm using a 12 millimeter socket and electric ratchet. I'm just going to tighten this down a little bit. Now I'm actually going to tap the rotor with a hammer. I just want to tap in these locations. Be careful not hit the studs. That loosens up. Tighten that up a little bit more. And you could get two bolts, but I'm just going to use one. There we go. Nice and loose, you can slide it right off.

I want to take this nut off, but there is a little part where it's pinched down right there to prevent it from loosening up. So just take a little punch and a hammer and try to get underneath there. Try to bring it back to the original shape. Generally, if you put a socket on there and loosen it up, it'll be a little bit tricky, but you should be able to get it anyway. But this will help.

So I lowered the vehicle down to the ground, close enough to the ground where I can take this pry bar and slide it in between the lugs, because what I'm going to do is try to loosen this up. This will prevent the hub from spinning. I'm going to use a 30mm 12-point socket and a breaker bar. Loosen this up. If you have to, you can always put a pipe on the end of your breaker bar.

All right, so I'm going to use a pipe, get a little more leverage. That's pretty tight on there, but once you get it loose, it makes it a lot easier. Then you could just take a regular ratchet and take that off. Or an air gun. All right, take that nut off.

I just want to make sure this axle is loose from the hub. We'll just take a punch. The reason why I'm going to use a punch and then a hammer is I don't really want a mushroom the end of the axle, because I am going to reuse the axle. All right, so it is moving a little bit, which is good. I don't have to hammer it all the way through. We'll take a little rust penetrant, spray it in there. Spray it in there, let it soak for a while. Oops.

Just so I don't miss the wheel speed sensor up, I do want to pull that out. So I'm just going to use a 10 millimeter socket, a extension, and a ratchet. Remove that. Pull that bolt out. Then I should be able to slide this sensor out. So it's rusted in there a little bit, which kind of stinks. So I'm just going to use some pliers. Remember it is plastic, so you got to be careful. Try to wiggle that out. I'm just going to use a little rust penetrant. Let that soak for a second. Here we go. Slides right out.

All right where the mounting flange is for the hub, there's four bolts. There's one here, one here, and then two on the other side. They're very hard to see, but what I'm going to do is use a 14 millimeter socket and ratchet, take these off. We'll see it better, a little bit more once they're loosening up. They're not extremely tight on there, they're pretty tight, but... Should be able to loosen it by hand. There's one. Try to get this lower one. You can almost see it from the inside, here, right next to the shoe. It's right there. That's where the front of the bolt is. Now over on this side, this bolt. Loosen that one up. We'll take that one out. All right. Slide that bolt out.

All right. For this one, I'm going to have to use a long extension. I'm going to go from underneath here, and I already had the socket on the bolt. Loosen that up. Now I can do it by hand, and take that last bolt out.

I installed a slide hammer on here, so I'm going to slide hammer this off. If you don't have a slide hammer, you can try to get behind here and try to give it a tap. If it's not too rusted, it might come off, but do what you can. All right, what I do need to do is press that axle in a little bit, so I'm going to pull this off real quick. Push the axle in a little bit. There we go. All right, that's loose. Now I should be able to pull the hub, no problem. There we go. It wasn't that bad.

Here's the old part. Here's the new wheel hub bearing from 1aauto.com. As you can see, the studs are the same. The machine surfaces are the same. Flip it over, the backside's the same. It has the ABS ring on the inside, just like the old one. Get yours at 1aauto.com, and you'll be ready to rock and roll.

All right, I'm just going to take a wire brush, and there's some rust in here, I'm just going to try to clean this out the best I can before we slide the new hub assembly back in. Try to make sure it doesn't get any of that debris into the brakes, into the parking brake shoes. But, just clean that up the best you can. I'm going to take a little bit of high-temp anti-seize and just put it on here and just for future... I put a little bit too much, a little more than I would have wanted to, but I'll just spread this around just so this new club doesn't ever get stuck in there. If this ever has to be removed again in the future. I put a little too much on there. I am just going to wipe that off for the rag, a little bit off. That's good. You don't want it on the brakes either, so that looks good.

All right. Take the new hub, slide it over the axle and just get that in position. That slips in nice. It does seem like there was some thread locker on these bolts, so if you prefer to put some new thread locker on you can. All right, so I put that one in, right there. It's kind of hard to see. You can get the other ones started. I want to get them all started before I start tightening this down.

All right, for the front side of it, I am going to use the socket and an extension to help guide it in. Again, this is kind of hard to see. Now I'm just going to snug these up before I torque them. I'm going to use the 14 millimeter socket, extension, and electric ratchet. If you don't have an electric one, just use a regular ratchet. Let me just make sure that's all the way on. That looks good. And then I'm just going to cross, I'm going to go from the bolt that goes there, and then I'm going to go to the one down here, just to try to get it to tighten down evenly. And then just move to this one. And the lower one.

I'm going to use that same 14 millimeter socket, and a torque wrench, and I'm going to tighten these to 66 foot-pounds, and I'm going to do it in a cross pattern as well. So I'll tighten this top one. Basically this one. And then I'll go to there, then I'll go here, and then there. You don't have to do it in a cross pattern, I just feel like it's just going to be better to tighten it down evenly.

All right, we're going to install the nut. It is a good idea to replace this nut, but it's not necessary. With the 30 millimeter socket and a torque wrench I'm going to torque this nut to 159 foot-pounds. I am going to use a breaker bar, I mean a pry bar, to prevent the hub from spinning. Now you could do this by hand like this, or you could also lower the vehicle down and just have the bar sit on the ground while you torque it on. It's your preference. Wrap it around this way.

So, just be careful doing that by hand. Now I'm going to take a punch, and we just want to cinch this down. That's just going to prevent the nut from loosening up. Just take a punch and a hammer. And that should be good, just like that. Now we can reinstall the ABS wire. Slide that back in position. If yours comes out kind of difficult, you can just clean that hole out a little bit. Just take some sandpaper or some emery cloth, just clean it out, or a wire brush.

I'm going to take this bolt, install that, and tighten it down with a 10 millimeter socket and a ratchet. Just snug it up. That's good. I'm just going to take a pocket screwdriver. Take these clips off. You can take them off both sides. We just want to clean up this caliper bracket. Be careful if you have to reuse those. And then take a wire brush, just clean up this area right here. Then we'll do the same for the other side.

All right, so this is more of a preference, but you can put a little grease on this area right here, and then when you take the clip, put the anti-rattle clip back on. Now, we're going to take some more grease. Just clean up on here. If you had any dirt on there, you want to clean that off as well, but just crease that area up there, just like that. And same for the other side. What happens on these caliper brackets is they corrode underneath there, and the rust actually pushes up on these rattle clips. And that prevents the pads from sliding properly. And also with the slide pins, I'm going to take these slide pins out, take some brake parts cleaner, clean these off, and a rag, just wipe them down. And then same in the hole. You can spray a little brake parts cleaner in there, clean those out the best you can. Just like that. Dump some of that out. Take a little break caliper grease, grease up the pin. Then we'll do the same with the other side. Slide it in, make sure that little grommet is sealed properly.

I need to take this little cover off on the old rotor. This is actually the adjuster cover for the parking brakes, so you can pull this off and then you can adjust the parking brakes. Transfer it over to the new rotor. Just take a pocket screwdriver, get it back in position. It's good.

All right. First thing you want to do, put the rotor on backwards. So I'm going to spray the rotor. There is a protective coating on the rotor, so just wipe it off. That's just to prevent it from rusting. Slide it the other way, and then spray some more brake parts cleaner, and wipe it off.

Now we'll take the bracket, slide that back in position, right there. Take the caliper bolts, caliper bracket bolts, get those started. Now I'm just going to take my 17 millimeter socket and ratchet, tighten these up. Now I'm going to use that same 17 millimeter socket and a torque wrench. I'm going to tighten these bolts to 65 foot-pounds.

Now, take these brake pads. It doesn't really matter which way they go. Slide those in position there, and then same on the inside. That's good. Now we can grab the brake caliper, slide the hanger off the caliber. Then I'm going to use a piston compressor, caliper piston compressor. There's obviously different types of caliper piston compressors. We actually sell this one at 1aauto.com. I like the way this one works. Just get this lined up in there, and then it ratchets. Ratchets one way to tighten it, and another way to loosen it. And you want to go nice and slow when you're doing this. As you're compressing this piston into the caliper, fluids going through the lines up to the master cylinder and into the reservoir. So it's a good idea to check the reservoir after you're done and adjust accordingly.

All right, get back on loosen. Loosen this up. Take the caliper, slide it over the pads. Take these caliper bolts, slide those in there, one there, one there. Then I'm going to use a 14 millimeter socket and a torque wrench. I'm going to torque these bolts to 20 foot-pounds, and if you have to, you can use a wrench to hold the the slide from spinning. If the slide spins, then just use a 14 millimeter wrench. That's good. Same with the bottom one. All right, for the bottom one, I just need an extension because the hose was in the way. Just like that.

Now I'm going to reinstall the tire. Take the lug nuts, install the lug nuts. Now I'm going to use a 21 millimeter socket and a torque wrench. I'm torquing these lug nuts to 76 foot-pounds, and I'm going to do it in a star pattern. That way the wheel gets tightened down evenly. I'll just go around again and just make sure. Good to go.

Now we want to make sure we pump up the brake pedal, because there is going to be a little bit of an air gap between the brake pads and the rotor, and this is going to eliminate that air gap. Just pump it up. It's going to squish the piston into the brake pads. That's good. Make sure it feels good.

And last, under under the hood, you want to make sure you check your brake fluid level, and make sure it's not too high. If it's above the max, you want to empty some out. Use some kind of fluid transfer pump. And then if it's too low, you want to add the appropriate brake fluid.

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