Replaces
Part Details
Our steering and suspension components are pre-greased and sealed for long life and do not require the extra maintenance typically required by greaseable versions.
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
FREE Shipping is standard on Orders shipped to the lower 48 States (Contiguous United States). Standard shipping charges apply to Hawaii, Alaska and US Territories. Shipping is not available to Canada.
Expedited is available on checkout to the United States, excluding Alaska, Hawaii and US Territories as well as P.O. Boxes and APO/FPO/DPO addresses. Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
Created on:
Tools used
Hi, I’m Mike from 1A Auto. We’ve been selling auto parts for over 30 years!
You can use a small pry bar, or you can use a large flat-bladed screwdriver. We're going to pop the wheel cover off. Going to use a 21 millimeter socket, a large breaker bar. Loosen the lug nuts with the vehicle on the ground, so the wheel doesn't turn. Raise this sporty vehicle with a jack and jack stands, or we're going to use our two post lift. The vehicle in the air, the lug nuts are loose, I'm going to use the socket to finish taking the wheel and tire off.
Remove the sway bar link. Spray some rust penetrant on the top nut. It's a 17 millimeter nut. Try to break it free first. It might want to spin on the ball joint part. There is a way to counterhold it. Typically, before I try to counterhold it, I like to try to break it free a little bit. It started to move, and then, now it's spinning on the ball joint part, but I did free it up a bit.
We're going to take a 6 millimeter hex drive on the breaker bar. Put it in here to counterhold it. Now, loosen the nut. It's possible that these could be so rusted together that you may have to cut the sway bar links off. If you're replacing the strut, you should have a new sway bar link on hand, in case you destroy it while you're removing it. This one came off really nicely. Pull it right out.
Spray some rust penetrant on the lower sway bar link nut. Wipe it so it doesn't drip all over the floor. Using the 17 millimeter wrench, break it free first. There you go. This one, I actually got lucky, I didn't have to counterhold it like the top one, and it spun right off.
Here's the original sway bar link we pulled from the vehicle, and the brand new one from 1AAuto.com. Comes with new hardware. Similar in design, this will work great and fit great in your vehicle. This can be installed in either direction. They're reversible. I'm going to start with the bottom one. Put it through. Use the new nut that was included. It is a locking nut, so it's going to get to a point and then stop. Take the one off here, and we'll install it here. Bend it a little bit. Nut installed here.
Now, we'll work on tightening the bottom one first. Nuts that come on this new one were 18 millimeter. Hold the bolt in place and tighten them up. It's starting to turn the ball joint. The stud's turning with it, so now I'm going to have to counterhold this. Use our 6 millimeter hex drive with our breaker bar. I can counterhold it and tighten it up. Get it tightened down, come back and torque it. Torque the sway bar link upper nut and lower nut to 55 foot-pounds. Once it clicks, you're all set. Do the same for both.
Reinstall the wheel. Start the lug nuts by hand. These lug nuts do have a shoulder on them. The opening in the wheel is a little bit bigger, so you might have to line it up, and just fiddle with the wheel a little bit while you're tightening these down. Just going to use the socket to snug these down. When I'm done, we'll lower the vehicle to the ground and torque them to spec. Torque the lug nuts in a cross pattern to 76 foot-pounds. To reinstall the wheel cover, line up the hole for the valve stem, and then snap it in place.
Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.
Tools used
What's up guys? I'm Andy from 1 A Auto. In this video I'm going to show you how to replace the front sway bar links on this 2010 Toyota Rav4. If you need this part or other parts for your vehicle, click the link in the description and head over to 1Aauto.com.
All right, I raised and supported the vehicle. I'm going to remove the wheel and I'm using a 21 millimeter socket and an air gun. If you don't have an air gun, you can use a breaker bar. Just crack the lug nuts free while the vehicle is still on the ground. All right, now I want to take the tire off. This one's stuck on there pretty good. So I'm going to put one lug nut on and just hit it on the backside of the tire with a hammer. Break it free, reason you leave the lug nut is so the tire doesn't go flying.
Now take the lug nut off, pull the tire off. I'm just going to take a little rust penetrant. Spray this sway bar link nut. It's a little bit rusty, so let that soak for a little bit. So there's a couple ways you can take this nut off. One, you could take a 7/32 hex key or a 5.5, it's pretty close as well. And then a 17 millimeter wrench and try to loosen it up that way. But I find it takes forever if you do that. So what I'm going to do is take some walking pliers, get behind here on the back side. This is going to prevent the stud from spinning. Just lock those in place. Take a 17 millimeter socket and an air gun and just take it off. Generally if you just bump it a couple of times like that, it'll loosen up. But I got to readjust the locking pliers. Make them a little tighter. Let's give this a try.
There we go. Got it off. Now we can slide this out and then you can see how this was on here. Now if you weren't replacing the sway bar link, then you probably don't want to do it this way. You probably want to do it with taking the wrench and the hex key. It just takes a lot longer.
Take the locking pliers off. I'm just going to use a little rough penetrant on this nut. Let that soak a little bit. Before I take this nut off, I don't want the stud to spin while I'm taking that off, so I'm going to use some locking pliers right here. Should be able to lock this stud or we could do similar to what I said up top, you could use a hex socket in the center there and then use a 17 millimeter wrench. It just takes a lot longer. 17 millimeter socket and an air gun and there we go. Nice and easy. Here's the old part. Here's the new sway bar link from 1Aauto.com. As you can see, the length of the parts are the same, they're machined the same way, the ball and socket ends are the same. They come with new nuts. Get yours at 1Aauto.com and you'll be ready to rock and roll.
Take the sway bar link, slide the stud through the sway bar and then put the nut on. Now as far as tightening it down, I don't have the ability to use locking pliers right here because I don't want to mess the boot up. So what I'm going to do is just use a ratchet wrench and a hex key. This nut is a different size, so I'm going to use an 18 millimeter ratchet wrench and the center for the stud to hold that, I'm going to use a hex bit with a six millimeter hex socket.
Tighten this up. I got that snugged. Now I'm going to use an 18 millimeter socket and a torque wrench and I'm going to torque this to 55 foot pounds. Just makes sure the stud isn't spinning when you do that. It's good. Now, align the link up into the bracket on the strip. Put the nut on.
I need an 18 millimeter ratchet wrench and a six millimeter hex key on a ratchet. So then I'm going to just tighten this up. And then the same as the bottom. I'm going to use an 18 millimeter ratchet wrench and a six millimeter hex key in a ratchet. Tighten this up. All right, I'm going to snug that up real tight. Then I'm going to use an 18 millimeter socket and a torque wrench and torque this to 55 foot pounds. Now install the tire. Take the lug nuts, install the lug nuts. Now I load the vehicle down to the ground so that the tire's just touching the ground and I'm going to torque these with a 21 millimeter socket and a torque wrench to 76 foot pounds, and I'm going to do this in a star pattern. The reason you do it in a star pattern is so that the wheel gets tightened down evenly. And then I always like to go around again just to double check and you're good to go.
Thanks for watching. If you want the parts to do it yourself, check out 1Aauto.com. The place for DIY auto repair.
