Kit Includes: (1) Front Passenger Side Sway Bar Link (1) Front Driver Side Sway Bar Link
Specification
Side Location
Driver & Passenger Side
Location
Front
Our steering and suspension components are pre-greased and sealed for long life and do not require the extra maintenance typically required by greaseable versions.
Item Condition:New
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Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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How to Replace Front Sway Bar Links 2006-11 Toyota Camry
How to Replace Front Sway Bar Link 2003-08 Toyota Matrix
How to Replace Front Sway Bar Link 2009-2010 Pontiac Vibe
Created on:
Tools used
Socket Extensions
Torque Wrench
17mm Wrench
Rust Penetrant
Pry Bar
18mm Wrench
17mm Socket
Jack Stands
18mm Socket
Brake Parts Cleaner
21mm Socket
21mm wrench
6mm Allen Wrench
Reciprocating Saw
Ratchet
Wire Brush
Floor Jack
1/2 Inch Breaker Bar
1. Removing the Wheel
Pry off the hub cap with a pry bar
Loosen the lug nuts with the vehicle on the ground
Raise and support the vehicle
Remove the lug nuts
Pull the wheel off the hub
2. Removing the Sway Bar Link
Spray rust penetrant on the upper sway bar link nut
Clean the upper sway bar link nut with a wire brush
Hold the upper sway bar link nut with a 6mm hex socket and breaker bar
Loosen the nut with a 17mm wrench
If the nut is stuck, hold the sway bar link ball joint with locking pliers if necessary
Remove the 17mm nut
If the nut remains stuck, cut the sway bar link stud with a hack saw or reciprocating saw
Hold the lower sway bar link ball joint with locking pliers
Remove the 17mm bolt from the lower sway bar link stud
Remove the sway bar link from the vehicle
3. Installing the Sway Bar Link
Hang the sway bar link where it attaches to the strut
Slide the sway bar link stud into sway bar
Start the 18mm nuts onto the sway bar link studs by hand
Hold the sway bar link ball joints with an 18mm wrench
Tighten the nuts with an 18mm socket and ratchet
Torque the 18mm nuts to 55 foot-pounds
4. Installing the Wheel
Slide the wheel onto the hub
Start the lug nuts by hand, with the tapered side facing the wheel
Tighten the lug nuts preliminarily
Lower the vehicle to the ground
Torque the lug nuts to 76 foot-pounds in a star pattern
Line up the hub cap with the valve stem
Push the hub cap onto the wheel
Hi. I'm Mike from 1AAuto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years!
Use a large pry bar or a flat bladed screw driver to remove the wheel cover. Just kind of slide it between the wheel and the plastic and pop it off. These lug nuts are a 21 millimeter socket. I'm going to use that and a breaker bar to loosen them while the vehicle's on the ground. Raise this part of the vehicle. We're using a two post lift, but you can use a jack and jack stands. The lug nuts are loose. I’m going to take my socket and finish removing them. I’m just going to hold onto the wheel and take the last lug nut off. It's going to be loose. You don't want to drop it. You can drop the lug nut. That's okay. You just don't want the wheel to fall.
I’m going to disconnect the sway bar link from the strut. Going to spray some rust penetrant on this upper sway bar mount. Use a wire brush to clean off some of the rusty bits. These can be difficult to take off, they get rusty and then the ball joint spins. It does have a hex spot here to put in a six millimeter hex drive. A lot of times that strips almost instantly as soon as you try to break it free ad you end up having to put vice grips behind to grab onto the ball joint, because there's no point here for a wrench. We’re going to do our best to get this one off without having to cut it off.
So this is 17 millimeter nut. Try to break it free first. See, it's turning, it's turning the whole ball joint with it. It's really tight. I’m trying to clean out any rust and dirt that's in this hex drive so I can get the hex drive to sit as far possible inside here, so it doesn't strip. Use some brake parts cleaner, I've sprayed some oil in there and I've been working the hex drive in to try to clean it out. I can see it's going in a little deeper, trying to get this sit as best I can. That's as far as it will go. Spray some more rust penetrant on there. I'm going to try to counter hold this hex drive while I free it with the 17 millimeter boxed wrench. We'll see how this goes. Sometimes you have to brace that against like the strut ad these just have so much – see, it's moving. That's good. It's really tight, though, so I'm just going to put that there. I'm going to spray some more rust penetrant.
These are typically self-locking nuts, so they're a little bit, they're not perfectly round. They're kind of oblong and that can make removing them difficult and also the rust gets gummed up in the threads. So I'm trying to spin this on and off to try to work the rust penetrant into the threads. So as I kind of expected, working these back and forth this hex drive they basically always strip. It's nearly impossible to remove them without these stripping, no matter what you do. So the next step I'm going to get some vice grips and try to hold the ball joint back here and use a 17 millimeter socket and ratchet and continue to remove this nut.
I’m going to try to slide these locking pliers behind the ball joint on the sway bar link. I’ve got a 17 millimeter deep socket on this longer ratchet, going to try to remove these. It feels like it's turning. One thing to mention if you're going to have to remove sway bar links for any reason or think you're going to have to remove them for any reason, you should have new ones on hand. They're almost a one-time use part.
If you're as lucky as us, you'll have to resort to power tools or a hacksaw to cut these sway bar links free. I'll do my best to avoid the strut, I don't want to damage that. I just want to kind of cut on the – going to try to find the narrowest part of the ball joint and the sway bar link. I think I'm on there.
I've actually gone in here. Because these sway bar links get seized on here so easily, I went in and cut the boot away, the rubber boot. So that I can get locking pliers in here to get a better grip on it and it's kind of working by holding it. I'm able to turn the nut out. Worst case if I get loose enough and it just keeps spinning, then I will take a saw and cut it right here. But I'm going to keep trying it right now with the locking pliers. Got it.
Here are our old sway bar links from our vehicle. You can see where I had to cut them. I was able to finally get this one out, but still, these have been destroyed by trying to remove them and you can see they're kind of rounded here. There's no real way to counter hold them to remove the bolts. They are supposed to have a hex drive in here. That strips out pretty quickly when you're trying to remove them.
Here's a brand new sway bar link this is from 1AAuto.com. These actually have a six-point on them so you can put a wrench on here and tighten them down and it's not going to spin on you and when you want to remove them to do other services, you can put your wrench over here and spin this off without destroying the ball joint and the sway bar link. So this should fit great and work great in your vehicle.
Put these up. Get this one up top. You can bend these around. Slide it through. These nuts are locking nuts, so the hole is not perfectly round. It's kind of oblong. So when this starts to tighten it will lock and it won't want to back off.
These nuts are 18 millimeter get this one set up here. The counter hold on the back is 18 millimeters. I'm going to use a deep socket 18 millimeter in the front. Get these snugged down and I'll come back and torque them. Torque for these sway bar links is 55 foot-pounds, and repeat it on the other nut.
Reinstall our wheel. It’s important to note these lug nuts have a taper. Taper meets the wheel and matches the inside of the wheel. Don't install them on the flat side like this; that is incorrect. Install them with the taper to the wheel. It helps locate the wheel on the lug nut stud. I'm just using the socket and ratchet to bring these down snug before I put the car on the ground. Torque the lug nuts to 76 foot-pounds, going in a cross pattern. Reinstall the hub cap. You’ve got to line up the opening for the valve stem with the valve stem on the wheel. Just push it in place.
Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.
Tools used
21mm Socket
Torque Wrench
Socket Extensions
Locking Pliers
Pry Bar
17mm Socket
Swivel
1/2 Inch Impact Gun
Okay friends, one of the first things we need to do is safely raise and support the vehicle with the suspension hanging. Once we've done that, we're gonna remove our five 21-millimeter lug nuts. Let's get the wheel off of here. So I've got my locking pliers holding onto the back side of the stud as tight as I possibly can. Now I'm gonna turn the 17-millimeter nut and try to relieve it. Easy-peasy.
Okay. So now I've got the locking pliers holding on to my stud again, we're gonna start taking off the lower nut for the sway bar link. You're gonna notice that it's gonna be very hard to get to this nut though and remove it. So what I like to do is take a nice pry bar, come in over the tie rod end under the sway bar, and then up and over this area right here just to hold the sway bar up so I can get my socket on there. So now I'm gonna use a swivel and extension, put this right onto the nut.
Okay friends, now it's gonna be time to install our brand new front sway bar link. Let's put it over by the vehicle, slide it right through. We can start on the nut. So I've got my tool holding the stud, and I'm gonna use my ratchet wrench. And I'm just gonna go ahead and tighten up that nut.
Now if you can get your torque wrench down here, go ahead and torque that to 55 foot-pounds. Let's get our bar out of there, bring this over, line it up with your hole. Start the nut on there. We'll bottom it out, and then we'll torque that to 55 foot-pounds as well. Torqued. All right, let's torque them in a crisscross manner. Torqued.
Tools used
21mm Socket
6mm Allen Wrench
Torque Wrench
Gloves
Locking Pliers
17mm Wrench
Socket Driver
17mm Socket
5mm Hex Socket
Ratchet
Safety Glasses
PSA55747
In Stock
Product Reviews
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4.65/ 5.023
23 reviews
5 Stars
4 Stars
3 Stars
2 Stars
1 Star
20
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Perfect fit
M
August 24, 2017
Good quality, not expensive, fits like a glove. Had my car running in no time.
Quality
Paul
May 30, 2018
Definitely made a world of difference and I mean my fianc could even tell, which I was surprised by.
great product
timothy
July 13, 2018
great service
reasonable prices
love the delivery time
??
Khen
September 17, 2018
Great product and nice quality, and it came earlier than the expected date. Totally recomend this product and 1a auto'
I bought a pair of sway bar links
M
November 17, 2018
The website was easy to use. The product I needed popped right up after I searched for it. I even called and was able to get in touch with an actual person, which is obviously a plus. Thank you 1aauto.com!
Great fit
John
November 24, 2018
These sway bars really helped with the front suspension, along with the struts it was a complete package.
Perfect price, perfect fit
C
January 31, 2019
It was just as described and fit perfectly. Shipped and arrived as the pictures and listing stated
My Sway Bar Purchase from 1A Auto
S
April 16, 2019
I love this 1A Auto, because I get a wonderful price, that's really not expected for the part I need. But at 1A Auto I get a price that's affordable and the part comes so quickly , until it's almost unbelievable. This is a wonderful thing for me, because my Husband died in January of Liver Cancer . He was the mechanic for this family, and now he is gone home to be with Our Father, but God has sent this company to my Son and I to help us with our mechanical needs. Thanks You so Much 1A Auto.!
DAVID
June 26, 2019
The's parts arrived ahead of time, had thnstalled professionally,even though I am a do it yourselier
They are working just great in the 3 to 4 weeks they have been in place
And I hope and expect they will last a long time
Great
S
May 10, 2020
Fit perfect....
Sway bar install easy and fast
Dominick
July 16, 2020
I bought the sway bars to replace when i did the struts. The sway bars were easy after watching the 1A-auto videos and having the right equipment. I did have to cut the drivers side old sway bar off but the new sway bar i had no issues or problems installing.
David
January 27, 2022
These parts fit perfectly and work as designed like factory parts.
Perfect fit
Theodore
May 22, 2022
It wad a perfect fit it handles good now
Very good quality. Product lasts a long time.
Sven
October 10, 2022
Installed then on my Toyota Corolla at 90,000 miles. I sold the car at 170,000 miles. The sway bar links were still in good condition.
Juan
January 25, 2023
Product description was not the same as it was.
MANFRED
June 16, 2023
Really nice quality. Install was easy and the video helped a lot!
perfect fit
John
July 13, 2023
perfect replacement fit. Following the video made this even easier.
Christopher
August 3, 2023
Easy installation. Good fit. Worked well for dad's Buick Enclave.
They work as should
4206
September 14, 2023
They did exactly what they were supposed to do an tightened up the front end
Bad nuts on Sway bar links
Alex
December 12, 2023
Well the links seemed ok but the problem was the nut it stripped the bolt and was unable to loosen or tighten the link properly had to take off ball joint and move the control arm to be able to grind if off. Not cool. Then they send me new links. Cool, thanks. But the new links had the same problem so i just used the old nuts of the original links and no problem. Bad part on 1Aauto though that's first time i have an issue with your parts. Was half the price on Amazon too.
2006 TOYOTA COROLLA SWAY BARS
Sandra
December 22, 2023
GREAT PERFECT FIT
Easy to install.
Ricardo
March 7, 2024
Had no problem installing them on Toyota Corolla. Nuts were a step up in size but ok. I torqued them in.
Quality
Brad
April 20, 2024
Poor quality
Go get Carquest instead
Customer Q&A
What brand or type of locking pliers did you show when removing these link ends? I have not seen that type before and they look like a lifesaver.August 3, 2023
Richard J
10
I apologize but we do not have any information on the locking pliers.
August 3, 2023
Emma F
10
May have been "needle-nosed" locking pliers. They typically are thinner and can fit in tight locations.
August 3, 2023
Christopher R
Customer service
877-844-3393
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