Replaces
Part Details
TRQ brake kits are designed to restore your brake system to like-new performance. TRQ brake pads are positive molded, thermal scorched, chamfered, and utilize a multi-layer shim for enhanced performance and service life. TRQ rotors have a non-directional finish that reduces the break-in period for new rotors as well as reducing vibrations throughout the rotor’s lifecycle. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Tools used
Hi. I'm Mike from 1A Auto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years.
Use a pry bar, or a large flat-bladed screwdriver to remove the hubcap. Just gonna slide it under the edge. Put that aside. Take a breaker bar and a 21 millimeter socket, and loosen the lug nuts with the car still on the ground.
Raise and support the vehicle. Now you can finish removing the wheel. These lug nuts are pretty loose, so I'm just going to use the socket and take them off. I'm removing the last lug nut. I'm just going to hold onto the wheel so that it doesn't fall off and take it right off.
Start by removing the two caliper pin bolts--one on the bottom and one on the top. Use a 14 millimeter. It actually broke free without having to use the mallet.
If it's tight, you can take a mallet and just tap it to break it free. You can squeeze the caliper a little bit by pulling it out. It should slide right off the pads. Take a bungee cord and just hang it up and out of the way.
So I'm going to use a small pry bar, or you can use a flat-bladed screwdriver. You need to pop them away from the brake rotor and out of the caliper bracket. Remove the caliper bracket bolts. There's two at the back--one on the top and one on the bottom. They're 14 millimeter. They can be in there pretty tight. Use a box wrench and a mallet and break them free.
Going to get the bottom one loose and then work on the top one. See that they've broken free--you can switch to a ratcheting wrench. Got it pretty loose, just got to remove the bottom one with my fingers. Put that aside and reuse it, and get the top one out. Pull the bracket out, and the bolt out.
This car is missing a rubber plug that goes in the rotor here. The rubber plug is so you can access the parking brake mechanism to release it. Somebody just put some duct tape over it. I'm going to peel it off. Inside here is the mechanism. I'm going to try to pull it off first, though, 'cause sometimes it's loose enough, you don't need to release it.
Parking brake's not on--it is spinning free. I can spray some rust penetrant around the hub. A little bit in here. We'll take our dead blow mallet. I'm gonna hit around the edge here to try to break it free.
Sometimes you'll get lucky. These might come off, but they usually get stuck on the parking brake shoes. Need to release the adjustment. It's very hard to see right now, but through this opening, it normally has a rubber plug on it. It had some duct tape on it. We removed it. Take a flat-bladed screwdriver. We're gonna spin it. Trying to grab the little tabs on there and spin it up, it's in a little wheel. Make sure I'm going the right way. You can check and see I went the wrong way. It locked it, so it's going to be actually spun down.
You basically just have to spin that wheel down and keep retracting the parking brake shoes in, so the converter will come free. When you adjust it, you're going through the rotor and into this hole, and then you're pushing down on it. And that spins the parking brake shoes in to release them.
Here's our original pads and rotors from our vehicle, our brand new ones from 1AAuto.com. Same exact style of rotor. Pads are same design--same lug pattern, pusher bolts, holes if you need to, the same access hole for the parking brake, which rides on the inside of the brake rotor hub here. These should fit great and work great for you.
We're going to clean and reuse our brake caliper hardware. It's in the caliper bracket, and I'm going to use the brake parts cleaner. Let's take a wire brush. Use the brake parts cleaner and a rag, and just wipe it down. Typically this hardware is stainless steel, so it can be reused. It doesn't get very rusty. And repeat it for the other side.
Now's is a good time while we have this out, just make sure that your caliper slide pins move freely. These ones move nice and free, and we install that in the car. Install the rotor backwards, take brake parts cleaner, and clean off the oil that comes on these so they don't rust while they're shipped.
Flip it over. Make sure you install it in a way that this hole lines up with one of the openings here so you can adjust the parking brake. Instead of taking the caliper off of our bungee cord, I'm going to take one of the old brake pads, take a ski clamp. And now what I'm going to do is gently compress the caliper, push the piston into the body, and that way when we put our new pads in it'll slide right together. I'm just going to rest the caliper like that.
Take a brake parts cleaner and clean it off. Reinstall our caliper bracket, keep the top one caught first, and it makes it a little bit easier. And I'm going to install the bottom one. It's a little easier, 'cause it just hangs on the top one. Reach in behind here. Put that bracket lined up.
Use the 14 millimeter ratcheting wrench to snug these up. Install our new pads. Just take some brake parts cleaner and make sure they're nice and clean. Brake caliper grease on the ears of them. Inside and outside pads are the same. Let's start with the inside pad. Place it on the bottom clip and push it up into the top clip. It snaps into place. Do the same for the outside one.
We're just following the curve of the pad too, the contoured, so the wider part is gonna match up with the lighter outside part of the rotor--same with the inside part. Just push them down into the clips and squeeze them together. Place the caliper back in place. Reinstall the bolts. Tighten these up. They'll get tight and I will stop.
Torque the caliper bolts to 46 foot-pounds. You need to adjust the drag on the parking brake. You can turn this so you can see the adjuster and then you can put your screwdriver in and just catch the gears in the wheel just right.
So now that's how you'd adjust it so that it's actually really tight. It's holding the brake runner, so now you know where the limit is. You want to back it off a little bit by turning it back down. Eventually if you touch the parking brake pedal it would self adjust out, but this way it just gets it closer right away.
So now I'm going to reach in and turn it down a little bit. So what it's dragging on right now is just the brake pads, but that should spin freely enough. And of course when you hit the parking brake pedal, it should come out and lock the rear wheels.
It's important to note these lug nuts have a taper, taper meets the wheel, matches the inside of the wheel. Don't install them with the flat side like this--that is incorrect. Install them with the taper to the wheel, it helps locate the wheel on the lug nut stud.
I'm just using the socket and ratchet to bring these down snug before I put the car on the ground.
We'll torque the lug nuts to 76 foot-pounds. Going in a cross pattern. We reinstall the hubcap. It'll line up the opening for the valve stem, with the valve stem on the wheel. Just push it in place.
Before we start the car, just going to gently press the brake pedal down, not all the way to the floor, maybe about a quarter of the way, and just pump it, and this will bring the brake caliper piston out to meet the pads, because we can press it, and you'll start to feel it get more solid as it pumps up.
Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.
Tools used
What's up, guys? I'm Andy from 1A Auto. In this video, I'm going to show you how to replace the rear brakes on this 2010 Toyota RAV4. If you need these parts or other parts for your vehicle, click the link in the description and head over to 1aauto.com.
I'm going to remove the wheel. I'm using a 21 millimeter socket and an air gun. If you don't have an air gun, you can remove it on the ground with a breaker bar before you raise the vehicle up. That wheel wasn't too difficult to get off. If you do have trouble getting it off you can just put a lug nut on there and hit the back of the tire with a hammer. Generally that gets them off.
Now I just want to compress this caliper a little bit just to make it easier to pull off. Just take a straight blade screwdriver, get in here and just try to pry it out a little bit. It'll just make the pads slide off easier. Now I'm going to take these two bolts out. I'm going to use a 14 millimeter socket and ratchet break these free. Then if the slide starts spinning you can use a wrench on that slide. Before I take that one out, break the top one free.
All right, now I'll just take these bolts out. Slide those out. You can grab the caliper and you want to use some type of a caliper hook. We actually sell these at 1aauto.com. Then we'll just hook this onto the spring right here. That way it keeps the tension off the hose. You don't ever want to just let the caliper hang from the hose because it could damage the hose.
Next I'm just going to remove these pads. Just grab the pads and slide them out. Just like that, set them aside. Then I'm going to take a 17 millimeter socket and a ratchet, loosen these two bolts up that hold this bracket on. They're pretty tight so if you need to use a breaker bar to break them free. To make it easier I'm just going to use an electric electric ratchet.
All right. This rotor's stuck on there pretty good. There is these two little threaded holes. What you can do is find a bolt that's going to work with those threads. Then take a ... Well, depending on the bolt, I'm using a 12 millimeter socket and electric ratchet. I'm just going to tighten this down a little bit. Now I'm actually going to tap the rotor with a hammer. I just want to tap in these locations. Be careful not to hit the studs. That loosens up. Tighten that up a little bit more. And you could get two bolts, but I'm just going to use one. There we go. Nice and loose. You can slide it right off.
Here's the old parts, here's the new brake parts from 1AAuto.com. As you can see, the height of the rotor is the same. It's machined the same way. It actually is slotted and drilled for better cooling. The pads themselves are made of the same material and shaped the same direction. Get yours at 1AAuto.com, you'll be ready to rock and roll.
I'm just going to take a pocket screwdriver, take these clips off. You can take them off both sides. We just want to clean up this caliper bracket. Be careful if you have to reuse those, and then take a wire brush just clean up this area right here. Then we'll do the same for the other side.
All right. So, this is more of a preference but you can put a little grease on this area right here. Then when you take the clip put the anti-rattle clip back on. Then we're going to take some more grease and just clean up on here. If you had any dirt on there you want to clean that off as well. But, just grease that area up there, just like that. Do the same for the other side. What happens on these caliper brackets is they corrode underneath there and the rust actually pushes up on these rattle clips. That prevents the pads from sliding properly.
Then also with the slide pins, I'm going to take these slide pins out, take some brake parts cleaner, clean these off and a rag, just wipe them down. Then same in the hole, you can spray a little brake parts cleaner in there, clean those out the best you can. Just like that. Dump some of that out. Take a little break caliper grease, grease up the pin. We'll do the same with the other side. Slide it in, make sure that little grommet is sealed properly.
I need to take this little cover off on the old rotor. This is actually the adjuster cover for the parking brakes. You can pull this off and then you can adjust the parking brakes, transfer it over to the new rotor. Just take a pocket screwdriver, get it back in position. That's good.
Now we do have a new hub on this vehicle so we wouldn't need to do this, but normally you would take a wire brush and just clean the hub surface. Any of the rust right here and right here. Just try to get in there, clean it out the best you can.
All right. The first thing I want to do put the rotor on backwards. So I'm going to spray the rotor. There is a protective coating on the rotor, so just wipe it off. That's just to prevent it from rusting. And slide it the other way. Then spray some more brake parts cleaner and wipe it off.
Now we'll take the bracket, slide that back in position right there. Take the caliper bolts, caliper bracket bolts get those started. I'm just going to take my 17 millimeter socket and a ratchet tighten these up. Now I'm going to use that same 17 millimeter socket and a torque wrench. We're going to tighten these bolts to 65 foot pounds.
Okay, now take these brake pads. It doesn't really matter which way they go. Slide those in position there and then same on the inside. That's good. Now we can grab the brake caliper, slide the hanger off of the caliper. I'm going to use a piston compressor, a caliper piston compressor. There's obviously different types of caliper piston compressors. We actually sell this on at 1AAuto.com. I like the way this one works. Just get this lined up in there and then it ratchets. Ratchets one way to tighten it and another way to loosen it. Now you want to go nice and slow when you're doing this. As you're compressing this piston into the caliper fluid's going through the lines up to the master cylinder and into the reservoir. So it's a good idea to check the reservoir after you're done and adjust accordingly.
All right. Put it back on loosen. Loosen this up. Take the caliper, slide it over the pads. Take these caliper bolts, slide those in there. One there, one there. Then I'm going to use a 14 millimeter socket and a torque wrench. I'm going to torque these bolts to 20 foot pounds. If you have to, you can use a wrench to hold the slide from spinning. If the slide spins, then just use a 14 millimeter wrench. That's good. Same with the bottom one. All right, for the bottom one, I just need an extension because the hose was in the way. Just like that.
Now I'm going to reinstall the tire. Take the lug nuts, install the lug nuts. Now I'm going to use a 21 millimeter socket and a torque wrench. I'm torquing these lug nuts to 76 foot pounds and I'm going to do it in a star pattern. That way that the wheel gets tightened down evenly. I'll just go around again, just make sure. Good to go.
Now we want to make sure we pump up the brake pedal because there is going to be a little bit of an air gap between the brake pads and the rotor. This is going to eliminate that air gap. Just pump it up, it's going to squish the piston into the brake pads and it's good. Make sure it feels good and last under under the hood you want to make sure you check your brake fluid level and make sure it's not too high. If it's above the max, you want to empty some out, use some kind of fluid transfer pump, and then if it's too low, you want to add the appropriate brake fluid.
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