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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet.
Hi, I'm Mike Green. I am one of the owners of 1A Auto. I want to help you save time and money repairing and maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20 plus years' experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this, to show you the correct way to install parts from 1AAuto.com. The right parts installed correctly, that's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.
In this video, we will be replacing the hub on this '98 Pontiac Grand Prix. This hub fits a whole bunch of different GM cars, Buick Century, Regal, Cadillac Deville, Eldorado, Olds Mobile, Chevy Impala, Monte Carlo, Bonneville, Grand Prix, Montana Transport, Chevy Venture, all kinds of different stuff. Here's the list of tools you need for the Grand Prix. Really what you need is basically metric sockets from 13 mm up to 19 mm, plus the large hub nut, which is anywhere from 32 to 35 mm and then the rest of the stuff and plus throw in there some penetrating oil and a hammer and rubber mallet.
If your hub doesn't come apart as easily as the one that did in this video, you may need an axle or a gear puller. If you are working with hand tools, start on the ground. Remove your lug nut covers, and loosen up your lug nuts. I've got the benefit of air tools, so I'm going to raise and secure the car and remove the wheel and tire.
I've removed the wheel and turned the wheels all the way to the right here, so I can access the brake caliper bolts, which is the inside ones, one here and then this one here. Those bolts are 15 mm, I am going to remove them. You don't want the brake hose on the caliper to be stressed, so I just kind of took a wire tie and tied the caliper up here, then remove the brake disc. Be careful not to touch the disc and if you do touch it, just clean it off with some rubbing alcohol or mineral spirits when you put it back together.
There's three bolts that hold the hub on. I'll go in behind here and show them to you. There's one here, one up in the middle there, and then back here next to the, this is the steering tie rod, there is one right there. It'll help probably using a little penetrating oil, right on the opposite side. Now we are going to remove those bolts. They are 13 mm, 1/2 inch is a standard equivalent actually it fits, but I am using 3/8 drive tools, so I going to remove those three bolts and the reason you have to use this size tool, is to get in behind on this top one, you need smaller tools in order to get in there. Then you get a nice big handle to work it.
I'm just going to kind of fast forward through here. As I remove these three bolts and as you can tell, they take quite a bit of force to get going. It will help if you have a large breaker bar and then just swivel the steering back and forth to make it easy to get to the bolts on each side. Now I am going to remove the middle hub nut. I have impact tools, so that makes it really easy. If you don't have impact tools, what you want to do is, before you remove the brake caliper, have somebody hold the brakes and then with hand tools, you can pull that hub nut off. This hub nut is 35 mm, so you'll need a 35 mm socket.
Now you need to get the axle back out. You don't want to use a hammer and whack it hard, but what I'd do is just give it a check. If I see it move a little bit with the hammer, which it does, then I would have you break out the rubber mallet and whack away. Rubber mallet is not going to hurt the insides of your CV joint. Now I got the two lower bolts out and the top one is really loose, so now it is kind of a matter of not being nice. You got to pound on each side of the flange and the hub and slowly work the flange out of the steering knuckle.
I have the hub work loose, now I am just removing the top bolt the rest of the way. I just kind of left it in there in case I hit it hard enough and it just came flying out, just safety. Unplug the harness right here and flip up this with your thumb and pull it off. This is what you would rather not see happen. Basically, the hub has been in there so long, the back part stayed in the steering knuckle and this came apart, so what I am going to have to do is use some driving tools and just try and drive the rest of it out of the steering knuckle.
As you see, it turns out to be not much of a problem. You just beat on it with the punch and hammer and it pops out. Don't worry about damaging it or anything like that. I poked a few holes in it.
You just want to push the clip off of this bracket and the rest of that comes out. Push in on the axle and kind of up a little bit and your connector comes out.
Clean up some of the corrosion on here. I'm just gonna use some penetrating oil just to lubricate it. Now it's ready for the new one to go in. Okay, here's our new hub from 1A Auto and not only is it prettier and shinier, it's all in one piece, as it should be, as opposed to three separate pieces. If you kinda use your imagination here this is all the same, it's gonna bolt up the same and now we are gonna put it in and it's not going to make a big groaning grinding noise.
Okay so that ends this part of this video, part one. Check out our other videos to see the installation of the hub.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com. Your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll free 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the internet and in person.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners of 1A Auto. I want to help you save time and money repairing or maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20-plus years experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this to show you the correct way to install parts from 1AAuto.com. The right parts installed correctly: that's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the front hub on this '97 DeVille, same as any '97 to '99 DeVille. Tools you'll need are jack and jack stands, 15 and 19 millimeter sockets with ratchet and extension, a breaker bar or a pipe for some extra leverage on some of those tougher bolts, a 13 millimeter 3/8 drive socket with a ratchet and extension, a large 34 millimeter socket, a large hammer, and a flat blade screw driver.
Use the screwdriver. I like to use a rag so I don't scratch the wheel or the center cap right underneath there. Your lug nuts 19 millimeter if you don't have the benefit of air tools, you want to start with the wheel on the ground, loosen the lug nuts then ready to secure the vehicle and remove the lug nuts the rest of the way. Also at this point, since we're doing the hub, if you don't have access to air tools with the vehicle on the ground, you're going to want to use your breaker bar and your 34 millimeter socket to loosen up that center hub nut.
Okay, now with your wheel turned, you can see right inside here, you can see that little hole in the brake pad, that is actually a wear indicator, it would indicate on this brake pad you're in good shape and then if you look at your outer pad, we can see that there's still some pretty good life left in it and then you want to make sure you check on both sides because sometimes you can have one side that's not worn, and the other side can be more worn but our brakes are fine. I have checked both sides, but I am going to take them apart and put them back together just to show you how to do it.
The next thing you want to do is removes these two bolts here which releases your caliper. These two bolts are 15 millimeter. These should just pull apart pretty easily. We'll speed it up here as we take out those bolts. Make sure that before you put these back together, that these pins are nice and clean and they have a little bit of grease on them. These look very good. Now, wrench the caliper off. We put the caliper up here out of the way. There's our inner pad again, and our outer pad and you can see the wear mark there and they've still got some good life on them, not a ton of miles but definitely don't need to replace them yet. But if you did want to replace them, you can just pull your pads right out like that. Now check your rotors and on this vehicle, well, with most vehicles, what you want to do is take your back of your fingernail, run it along the rotors, feel for any deep groves or gouges and then just kind of inspect the condition of the routers and these look absolutely fine. If you feel any grooves or there's too much rust or corrosion or your rotors look thin, then you do want to replace them.To remove and replace the rotors, there's two large bolts here and here. These bolts are 15 millimeters as well. What I have here is my ratchet and I'm going to use a piece of pipe. Okay, the pipe goes on there, gives me some extra leverage and then I'll push slowly down on the pipe. I can feel the bolts start to break loose. On top here I'm going to use a short extension. With this pipe again, it's easy pressure to the bolt to break lose. And then once that's bracket's off the rotor comes right off.
To remove the hub, there are three bolts. See one here, one up in there, then one around the other side. What you want to do is use some penetrant, spray the back sides of those bolts and let it sit for a while. Okay, while it's sitting, we're going to remove our hub nut; it's 34 millimeter. If you don't have an impact tool, what you need to do is loosen this while your tire is still on the ground and you do that with a big breaker bar and your pipe probably. Since I have impact tools, it'll come right off. You want to make sure your axle is free of your hub and generally you don't want to just bang on this thing repeatedly but what I usually do is just give it one good wrap and watch the axle in relation to the hub and if the axle moves, that means it's nice and free and most of the time they are free. Just give it one good hit and I saw it move.
This will come apart pretty easily. I'm going to use 3/8 inch drive tools, they're narrower, allows you to fit them in better. I'm going to put my 13 millimeter socket on there and then I use a piece of pipe again to create some leverage. Then slowly apply the pressure and the bolt will start moving. We're juts going to fast forward through removing the front two bolts and then turn our attention onto the rear bolt. Additionally, while I'm back here, I'll pull and disconnect my ABS harness. Remove the clip from the backing plate. Now, we're going to fast forward as we manipulate the steering and just remove those bolts the rest of the way. Now, you want to unseat the hub and you want to be careful not to damage this backing plate and then they come off pretty easy. Then, just start to come out, push the axle kind of the side and feed the harness clip through. Now that's the end of part one. We'll stop there with the hub off and if you want to see re-installation, just check out our other videos for the one with the same name but part 2.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
This is Part 2 of installing a hub on this 1997 Deville, same as any '97 to '99. The tools you'll need for this, just a little refresher. Hopefully, if you've already gotten it out, you've already got all these tools together.
Okay, now you want to unseat the hub. You want to be careful not to damage this backing plate. Then they come off pretty easy. As they start to come out, push your axle kind of to the side and feed the harness clip through. New hub from 1AAuto: exactly the same. Just take your ABS clip out of there. You want to feed this in with the ABS clip kind of up that way. This goes on like that. Put the hub on, put the clip through, push it through, push on it a little bit. Four bolts probably the easiest one here feed it through, through the backing plate and into the hub. Start it. Use my socket ratchet extension. I'm not going to tighten it up a lot, just get that bolt going for you a bit. Make sure it's in there properly. Then you take your top one, same thing. Feed it through, through the backing plate. Push on the hub some. Start the bolt. Okay, we'll fast forward as we put in those two front bolts and then spin it over to the rear.
Okay, take my clip, clip it on, and plug in my ABS lead. Now, my third bolt, I'm going to tighten up most of the way so it's snug. Now, the rear we're going to tighten up, we're going to snug it up, and then do the same thing for the other ones. Then we'll torque them afterwards. Okay, now I'm going to tighten these to 70 foot-pounds. Then, I'm going to put my hub nut on here and I'm just going to use my impact wrench to get it seated. I'm not going to tighten it yet. I'm going to torque it when it's all back together. What I like to do is I just put one lug nut on, just to kind of help hold it in place.
The bracket goes between the knuckle and the rotor. Then the bolt goes in with the space around the back. We'll speed it up here, as we just put those bolts in and tighten them up preliminarily. Tighten them up to 85 foot-pounds.
You're going to want to use a wire brush. You're going to actually take these slides off, and you'll want to clean out where the pads move back and forth. Now, your pads. Obviously, I'm not putting new pads in, because mine are fine. All this vehicle really needed was a new hub. So put the pads back in and start placing them, like that.
If you're putting new pads on, you'll need to . you can see my cylinder is out of the caliper some . so, you'll need to push that cylinder back in. You can do that with a large C-clamp. Now, that can go right down like that.
Okay, put the slides back in, make sure they're nice and clean and have some grease on them. Tighten them up with your ratchet and socket, and pull them nice and snug. They should be probably about 25 to 30 foot-pounds. Then remove that lug nut.
Now we can put our tire back on. Start the lug nuts by hand, tighten them up preliminarily with your wrench, and then you'll do the rest of the tightening when the car's on the ground. Now we want to tighten this to 118 foot-pounds. And now here with the car on the ground, tighten the lug nuts up to 90 to 100 foot-pounds using a star pattern. And then, most important is the last step. Make sure whenever you take your brakes apart, pump your brakes a bunch of times first. Do a test stop from five and then ten miles an hour.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Hi, I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners of 1AAuto. I want to help you save time and money maintaining and repairing your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20-plus years' experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this, to show you the correct way to install parts from 1AAuto.com. The right parts, installed correctly: That's going to save you time and money. Thank you, and enjoy the video.
Okay, this is part two of a two-part video, installing the hub in this '98 Grand Prix, and again, this hub fits all kinds of different GM vehicles, Buick, Cadillac, Pontiac, Chevy, Olds, everything from transport minivans to Cadillac Eldorado. Here's the list of tools you need for the Grand Prix. Really what you need is basically metric sockets from 13 millimeters up to 19 millimeters plus the large hub nut, which is anywhere from 32 to 35 millimeters, and then the rest of the stuff, and plus throw in there some penetrating oil and a hammer and rubber mallet.
Okay, so here's our new hub from 1AAuto, okay. Not only is it prettier and shinier, it's all in one piece, as it should be, as opposed to three separate pieces. If you kind of use your imagination here you can see that this is all the same. It's going to bolt up the same, and when I put it in there it's not going to make a big groaning grinding noise. Okay, so one thing I do prior to installation is put just a little bit of anti-seize on my bolts. Okay, if you just use some kind of penetrator, whatever, it just helps. Most likely this car won't outlast the new hub, so the next person, if anybody else has to take it apart, they'll be able to get it apart easy. If not, then I just sleep better knowing that I did it right.
Okay, so I'm ready to put my hub back on. Notice I put my three bolts kind of back in place, because as I slide the hub in, I'm just going to start them. Want to make sure we put this in, and I'm going to hang it up here with the middle one. Okay, and then the hub, okay, this piece you want down at the bottom. Okay, so put it, kind of barely start on here, and basically stick your I stick my thumb through, push the axle some. Push my connector through. Push the hub on some more. Kay, make sure my oops. Make sure my harnesses come through okay. It's not stuck on anything. Okay. Now, it'll be easiest to start one of these bolts down here. Start it with your fingers.
On the other side, push the hub in, start the bolt with your fingers. Okay, and now I'm just going to swivel the steering back and forth, and tighten up those bolts. Then I'll slow down the motion when I'm torquing them. Okay, now I'm ready to torque, I'm going to set my torque wrench at 65 foot pounds. I've got these kind of tightened up fairly evenly, so I'm just going to torque them one time.
Okay, so now that's parallel, so I'm going to put that, start that back in. Now, if you are working with hand tools, you can put the brakes back together, put it on with a wrench. I'm going to use an impact wrench to protect my hand. I'm going to tighten up. But I'm going to use a torque wrench as well. On, use an impact wrench. Again, you can wait and do this, if you have only hand tools, you can put your disc back on, put your brakes back on, have the assistant hold the brake pedal for you if you do this by hand, but I'm going to use a torque wrench. I'm just going to tighten it up. I'm not going to tighten it up all the way with a torque wrench. I'll tighten it until the torque wrench sounds like it's starting to work hard.
Kay, put my disc on, and I'm actually just going to put a lug nut on just to hold it in place when, while I put the caliper on. We'll cut this down. Kay, now that I have the caliper on here, I'm just starting to bolt the caliper in. I'm just tightening it up some with the impact wrench. Just to get them started. Okay. Then I've got my impact wrench set at 75 foot pounds. Okay. Take the lug nut off. Okay, just going to reach back in here, okay. I'm going to clip my harness back onto the bracket. Plug in my ABS harness.
Okay, so, as I found out when I put the wheel on to put the car down, because that's usually how I do this, but the socket was too big to get inside the wheel. I have a person in the car holding the brake down, and now I'm going to torque it, okay. First I'm going to go to 90 pounds, and then further, and now I'm going to back off. Okay, and then go to 90 again. Kay. Okay, now you can put your wheel on. I just start the lug nuts. I tighten them a little bit with the impact wrench. I don't tighten them all the way, because you want to lower the car down, and then you want to use a torque wrench. Torque them to 75 foot pounds, and then reinstall your little lug caps. When you reinstall those lug caps, just do it by hand, and then you're all set.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this helps, the video helps you out and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the front hub on this 2000 Buick LeSabre, pretty much the same as any 2000, 2005 Buick LeSabre and obviously we sell new hubs at 1AAuto.com.Tools you'll need are Jack and Jack stands, 34, 19, 15 and 13mm Sockets. You'll need Ratchets and Extensions and you'll also need a Breaker Bar and possibly a Pipe for some extra leverage on some of those bolts and a large Flat Blade Screwdriver, a Hammer and Torque Wrench. On this LeSabre, you want to remove this center hub cap. Just pull firmly. If you don't have the benefit of air tools, you want to use a 34mm Socket and a big Breaker Bar, probably the pipe. With your vehicle on the ground, loosen up this center knot. Loosen up here first. You want to loosen your lug nuts with the wheel on the ground then raise and support the vehicle and then remove the lug nuts and wheel the rest of the way. I'll fast forward here as I use a 19mm Socket with an Impact Wrench and remove the lug nuts and the wheel and tire, and then just turn the suspension so that I can get a good look at the brakes. To get the brakes apart, first you're going to remove two 15mm bolts here and here. You should be able to use a 15mm Socket with a Ratchet and this should come apart with some force but it should come apart very easy.
I'll speed it up here as I loosen the top one and take both those bolts out and I'll show you them in a minute. The bolts are actually, the items that the calipers slide on as well so I'll show a little close up to you. These are slides taken apart. You want to note their condition. This probably should be just clean up and put a little grease on to them. I'll speed it up here again as I just remove, finish removing the upper bolt out of the top. With a large screwdriver, put it right in here and pry out and that actually forces the piston back into that actually forces the piston back into the caliper a little bit. You could see, I use a screwdriver pry out on the caliper a little bit and that loosens up so I can get the caliper up and off and then I just hang it up on the strut. I'll show you that right there. Now, your brake pads very easily. Just pry out. Remove these two bolts here. I needed my Socket again and a Ratchet. Use a Breaker Bar or a piece of pipe. A piece of pipe helps you get some extra leverage and just push nice and firm until you start to get them loose. I'll fast forward here as I use the Ratchet and pipe to loosen up the top one and then take both the bolts out. Now, your rotor comes right off. Here, I'm applying some penetrating oil to the center hub knot as well as the three knots that hold the hub to the steering knuckle. Here, I'm removing that nut with an Impact Wrench.
Again, if you don't have air tools, you'll want to loosen up this knot when your tire is still on and the vehicle is on the ground. You want to make sure that your axle is free from your hub. You're going to give a one good hit with a hammer. You don't want to be on it continuously with a hammer because you could damage your CV joints but one good hit and just watch the axle in relation to the hub, if it moves then your axle is free and is no problem. Just give it a good wrap and just watch. Like I said, the axle in relation to the hub and it moved so it's nice and free. I can actually move it just with my thumb. Now, three bolts hold the hub to the steering knuckle. You could see one down there and one up in there. Generally, you want to use 3/8s drive tools because they're a little narrower and they can get in here better. There's the bolt here, there's one down here and then over on the other side, there is a bolt right down in here. This is your ABS lead, you want to use a screwdriver, pry this clip away. Pull that off and then just push up on this clip here and disconnect it. I'm going to fast forward here as I take and loosen up those three bolts and you should be able to get them with a good sized 3/8s Ratchet. You want to just keep applying even pressure. Don't jerk the wrench or anything. Apply even pressure and they'll come loose and what I'm doing is actually turning the steering knuckle back and forth so I can easily get to all three of the bolts. Once you get up to this point, you need to push. I've got pushing it with my thumb on the axle and then pulling the center wire out. You want to take this off and put right there.
New hub available on 1AAuto.com, you want to put in there. You want the sensor kind of towards the rear towards where it goes in and this goes on so that this tab is in this position over here. Put it on and again, just reach through with your thumb, push on the axle so that you could push your sensor connector through. Pull that connector through this bracket up and on. I'm going to get that up on here. Pull this connector; pull this back and in there. Kind of a matter is getting the grooves all lined up and in. Tug on your ABS sensor a little bit, make sure it's through cleanly. Push that on, the bolt. These ones' the easiest lugs that put it through and start it into the hub. I'm going to speed it up again as I start all three bolts in. You want to make sure you start them all in first, then usually tighten up the rear one until it snug and then you tighten up the other two until they're snug. The last step of tightening is to torque them. Make sure the leads through correctly. Put right on to that bracket and then plug it in. I'm going tighten these bolts to 60 foot pounds, starting with this rear one. I'm going to reinstall this hub knot just preliminarily. Rotor goes back on. Before you put this caliper bracket back on, take a wire brush and make sure these all nice and clean. In particular, you're cleaning the grooves where the brake pads sit and slide.
This part goes between the rotor and the steering knuckle and that bolt goes to the steering knuckle first, then into the caliper bracket. Start my lower one. Now, start my upper one. I'll speed it up here as I just kind of preliminarily tighten those two bolts up. Now, we'll torque these to 80 foot pounds. Put it down and make sure your hose isn't twisted. You might want to pull these grommets in a little bit. Put your caliper down on, make that those aren't bunched up. Here are my sides, I cleaned them up, put a little light coated grease on them. That's a little one came out with this sleeve so I took that off, cleaned it all out, put a little bit of grease on the inside, on the outside of it. Put our brake pads back, it just kind of slides right in, the support one. Now, push down in a little bit diagonally. Top one back in first, start it a little bit and our bottom one. I'll fast forward again as I just kind of preliminarily tighten those bolts. I'll torque these for about 50 foot pounds. Again, apologize for the low volume, 50 foot pounds is what you want to torque those to. Okay, speed it up here as we put the wheel and tire back on and then just start the lug nuts by hand and then tighten them preliminarily with the Impact Wrench. Now, you want to torque the center nut to a 118 foot pounds. Torque your lug nuts to a 100 foot pounds using a start pattern. Okay, and we'll speed up the tape as we torque up the lug nuts. Anytime you take the brakes apart, make sure that you pump your pedal a whole bunch of times until it gets firm and then do test stops from five and 10 miles an hour, make sure the brakes are working correctly before you road test your vehicle.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the internet and in person.
