Chevrolet Nissan Front 10 Piece Steering & Suspension Kit TRQ PSA44091

You want to keep in mind when you're doing this job, after you're done, you're gonna want to go to a local garage and have the vehicle aligned so you don't have premature tire wear. Take the wheel off. I'm gonna use a 21-millimeter socket. Remove the wheel. I'm gonna loosen up this jam nut. I'm gonna use a 17-millimeter wrench. And it's loose enough. Just little rust penetrant in here. Suck that down for a little bit. I'll use a 14-millimeter socket, take that nut off. And just take a hammer and just hit it out. Just give it a tap.

Now I'm gonna remove the outer tie rod. Just count the turns when you take it out, one, two, three and so on just so that you know where it was when you go to put it back together. 4, 5, 17, 18, 19. We're gonna take this nut off, take the jam nut off. If you have to, you can use some locking pliers and then a socket. This one's coming off pretty easy though. And now you can use some hose clamp pliers or needle-nose pliers just take this clamp off. I can just use a straight pick and loosen this clamp up right here. And then if I twist it that way it'll be a little easier to loosen it up over here. I'm just gonna use a right-angle pick, just loosen this up a little bit more. I can try to pop it off, make it easier. I might reuse it and I'm pretty sure I can reuse it. I can grab the boot, just slide it off.

All right. Now you can take this clamp off. Now I'm gonna use a tie rod tool with the correct adapter. Slide it over the inner tire rod and lock it in place. And I'm just gonna use some locking pliers as close to the tie rod tool as possible so you don't mess up the steering shaft. I'll get that in place, then I can loosen this up. And it should be loose. I can take the locking pliers off and take the tie rod tool off and just loosen this up. Take it off.

I'm just gonna use a little bit of the grease that comes with the tie rod end, just put it in there. Try to pack it in there a little bit. It's good.
And then I'm just gonna use a little Loctite or a threadlocker. I'll say it again. I'm gonna use a little threadlocker just on these splines right there and get this lined up. And I'm gonna use the same adapter and tool to reinstall it or install the new one. Just the locking pliers just on the steering shaft. Now I'll tighten this up. It's good and tight. Gonna take a little more of this grease and just put it right here where that boot's gonna ride, rub it around. I just put this clamp back on the boot. And line it back up. Specially made clamp tool for this, just gonna squeeze the clamp, tighten it up. Now that's good.

Now I'll just take the clamp. Use some pliers, get that back over the boot. That's good right there. We can install the jam nut and just take the tie rod end and just count the turns. 1, 2, 3, 17, 18, 19. Just move the jam nut a little closer. And I'll just gonna take this castle nut off first and slide it into the knuckle. Put the castle nut back on and torque this nut to 25-foot-pounds. And take the new cotter pin and line it up. Use some side cutters, just bend the tab over. Then you can cut off the excess and just use a 18-millimeter wrench, tighten up the jam nut. If you have the ability to torque this, torque this to 31-foot-pounds. Put the wheel back on, and the lug nuts. Now I'm gonna torque these lug nuts to 83-foot-pounds in a star pattern to tighten the wheel down evenly. Just go around again. Double-check.

You wanna keep in mind, when you're doing this job, after you're done, you're gonna wanna go to a local garage and have the vehicle aligned so you don't have premature tire wear. Take the wheel off. I'm going to use a 21-millimeter socket. Remove the wheel. I'm just going to spray a little rust penetrant on here, this is pretty rusty. Let it soak. I'm going to take this nut off using 18-millimeter wrench, and then to hold the stud I'm gonna use a 6-millimeter hex bit. Loosen this up first. And take that nut off, and then slide this out. And take the ABS wire out of this bracket right here, just slide it out. And this one too. And we want to remove the brake hose from this bracket, there's a little clip right here, just take a screwdriver, just try to pry it out a little bit. Slide that off and slide the brake hose out. Now I'm going to use a 21-millimeter wrench on this bolt here and 21-millimeter socket, take these two nuts off. Be careful with the brake hose, don't get it caught. Don't want to rip it. And then you can take these bolts out. And slide the knuckle off of here. You might want to support this knuckle, you don't want to put too much tension on the brake hose or on the CV joint, if it start pulling out.

And we need to take these bolts out, but before we take these two out, there is a third one that's behind the cowl, right here. You can just take a straight blade screwdriver, raise this up right here. Take this out of the way. And then there's a little cover right here, pull this up and out of the way, and then you can access it. I just take a 13-millimeter socket and an extension, then I pull this cover off so I can access it from here with my hand, just to get on it and loosen it up. And pull the other two out. Now I'm going to grab the strut assembly from underneath and take this last bolt out. And I'll pull it right up. All right. Take the new strut assembly. Now, this only goes on one way, these bolt holes will only line up one direction. So, slide this in position. Then you can get one of these bolts started. It might be easier if you have a helper hold that while you get the bolt in. And get this other one in. Just make sure you get a couple turns on these bolts. I am going to leave this loose so that we can attach everything underneath first before we torque these down.

Now, take the knuckle, slide this in position. If you have to twist the strut, you can. And raise it up. Slide the bolt there. And this one right here. And now we'll torque these to 92 foot-pounds. Line the brake hose up. Take the clip, slide the clip in position, and just take a hammer and just give it a tap. There we go. Looks good. Take the ABS wire, put that back in the bracket right there and right there. Reattach the upper sway bar link. Put the nut on. Now we'll torque this to 62 foot-pounds. And then line these bolts up to kind of where they were before, there is an alignment adjustment right here. I'm going to use a 12-millimeter socket to tighten these down. And then torque these to 12 foot-pounds. And put these covers back on, here and right here. Put the wheel back on, and the lug nuts. Now I'm going to torque these lug nuts to 83 foot-pounds in a star pattern to tighten the wheel down evenly. Just go around again, double check.

To take the wheel off, we're going to use a 21-millimeter socket. Remove the wheel. I'm just going to spray a little rust penetrant on here because it's pretty rusty. Let it soak. I'll do the same on the bottom one. I'm going to take this nut off using 18-millimeter wrench, and then to hold the stud, I'm going to use a 6-millimeter hex bit. I'm going to loosen this up first. And take that nut off, and then slide this up. And then you're going to do the same with the bottom one. Use an 18-millimeter wrench, and a 6-millimeter hex bit. Take that nut off and slide the link up. The new link, line it up. Put the nut on.

I'm going to use a 22-millimeter wrench on the back side of this stud to hold that from spinning, and use an 18-millimeter socket to tighten the nut down. And then torque that nut to 62 foot-pounds. There you go. And take the top link, top part of the link, and slide it through the strut. Put the nut on and do the same. And then torque to 62 foot-pounds. And put the wheel back on, and the lug nuts. Now I'm going to torque these lug nuts to 83 foot-pounds in a star pattern to tighten the wheel down evenly. Just go round again, double check.