TRQ ignition coils will have your engine running like new. TRQ ignition coils are manufactured to precise specifications using premium raw materials to optimize each vehicle's ignition system. To ensure peak performance, TRQ recommends replacing ignition coils in sets to prevent electrical output imbalances. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
High dielectric epoxy and reinforced bobbins for extended service life
Rubber, Silicone, or Phenolic Resin Shell: Prevents premature boot wear
Application Specific Design: No modifications required
Complete repair to restore your engine to like-new condition
Item Condition:New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
Returns: Parts with electrical components cannot be returned once installed.
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How to Replace Ignition Coils 2002-08 Dodge RAM 1500
How to Replace Ignition Coils 2011-17 Ram 1500
How to Replace Ignition Coil 2005-2010 Dodge Dakota
Created on:
Tools used
Air Blow Gun
Dielectric Grease
Torque Wrench
Socket Extensions
Socket Driver
8mm Socket
Ratchet
Pocket Screwdriver
All right, friends. To get started on this, we wanna of course be underneath the hood. Let's go ahead and remove this right here. It's for your air temp sensor. I always like to take a peek, make sure there's no funny colors. Loosen up this clamp right here. Let's move along to removing this mounting bolt right there. Let's get this off of here. There we go. Let's lift this straight up, and then slide it off of here, set this aside. At this point, we have a nice clear view of all of our coils. We have some along the driver's bank and of course along the passenger bank. To go ahead and remove them, if you press on this tab right where my thumb is, you should be able to kind of push this off. Always take a peek, that looks good. Grab your wire, give it a nice twist, and pull it right off of there. Right down along here, you're gonna be able to see the mounting bolt. Go ahead and remove that as well. Okay, once that's loose, go ahead and wiggle this, draw it up, there's our coil friends. Let's take a little blowgun, put some air in there.
Now we're gonna continue on with a little bit of dielectric grease. There's gonna be three areas that I wanna coat. Right along this area right here, that goes on to the spark plug. This area right here for the electrical, and then, of course, this area right here, which is where that wire is gonna go on, that's gonna help keep moisture out of all these areas. Let's move along. Slide this right down in here. Line up our bolt hole. Now we're gonna snug this up, and then we'll torque it to nine-foot pounds. Get our connector in here. Give it a nice tug, perfect. Move along to a spark plug wire, give it a nice twist, work in that dielectric grease, you would do the same to the rest.
Let's go ahead and get this on here. I'm gonna slide this in, lift it up in the front, slide it back like this, and now push it down like that. That kind of locks it in on the backside. Let's get our hose on here. Nice wiggle. Let's snug this up. Perfect. Move along to your mounting bolt under here. Give this a nice tug. Make sure it's completely secured. Make sure it's sitting bottomed out all the way along down here. You wanna make sure that has a good seal, so you don't get any dirty air getting drawn into your engine. Also double-check this, make sure that's tight as well. Very important. Let's move along to connecting in our air temp sensor. Good nice click. A nice tug. There we are. That feels great. The next thing you would wanna do is go ahead and start up your engine and make sure it purrs like a kitten
Tools used
Socket Extensions
Flat Blade Screwdriver
10mm Wrench
10mm Socket
Ratchet
Swivel
1. Removing the Passenger Side Ignition Coil
Remove the 10mm bolts from the ignition coil
Disconnect the ignition coil
Lift the coil up and out
Remove the boots from the coil
2. Installing the Passenger Side Ignition Coil
Attach the boots to the coil
Insert the coil into place
Connect the ignition coil
Tighten the 10mm bolts to the ignition coil
3. Removing the Driver Side Ignition Coil
Use a long extension or a 1/4 drive socket with a swivel on the end
Remove the 10mm bolts
Disconnect the wiring harness
Bend the coil to maneuver it out
Remove the boot from the coil
Check that the metal pin is still inside the boot
Hi, I’m Mike from 1A Auto. We’ve been selling auto parts for over 30 years!
These heavy engines have eight ignition coils, and each coil does two spark plugs and there's two spark plugs in each cylinder. We're going to show you how to remove this ignition coil. This is probably the easiest one on the engine to do. The one on the driver side rear, actually two of the ones on the driver side rear are pretty difficult. But we're going to start with this one and just show you how it comes out, and then we'll give you some tips later on how to do the driver side rear.
We'll start with removing these two 10 millimeter screws. They are really easy to come out. As soon as you crack them loose, you can just spin them up by hand. Then up here you have just a clip that you can push down on and release from the coil. All right, if pushing it down with your thumb doesn't work, you can always go with the screwdriver and just kind of wiggle it up. There we go. With the two bolts out of the way and the connector loose, you can slide this right up and out, and you can see it has these two boots on it. These boots can actually come off as well. They may come off when you do the driver side rear because pulling this out with these boots attached is really, really difficult.
All right, we're now going to slide this right back in. You want to make sure your connector is facing up so you can plug your plug in. Technically removing this engine cover will make it a little easier on yourself. But it's not necessary for this specific coil. All right, the connector's plugged back in. Now we can put these two 10 millimeters right back in the holes. With them tightened by hand, you can go back with your socket and ratchet and just kind of snug them up. You don't need to go too crazy with this. Just making them snug is perfectly fine.
Now if you've ever had to do spark plugs or ignition coils on one of these engines, you know that the driver side rear two ignition coils and all four of those spark plugs are really difficult to access. We would love to show you how to do that, but getting the camera in there to see anything is really difficult. I'm just going to give you a few tips on what I've done in the past to get these things out. A few things you can use are a ratcheting 10 millimeter wrenches to get the coils.
You can reach back, and if you remove this engine cover you have a little bit more swaying room. So you can use a 10 millimeter wrench, if you have a ratcheting one, that one's even better. And then you can get the bolts out. The other thing you can use is quarter drive socket with a swivel on the end, and make sure it's a shallow socket and you should be able to reach in and you can get some of these hard to reach 10 millimeter bolts.
Then once you do get those two 10 millimeters out of each coil, and you remove the plug on the top. You can just bend the coil out of the way because the boots are flexible. The only thing you have to watch out for is when the boot comes off there's a little tiny metal pin inside the boot and that's going to fall and you might lose it. So you have to be prepared to have that little pin pop out of the boot if you are going to remove the boots with the coil being separate. Those are a couple of my tips. It's definitely a challenge to do and it'll take a while, but hopefully that'll help you out and get you fixed up right.
Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.
Tools used
Dielectric Grease
Flat Blade Screwdriver
8mm Socket
10mm Socket
Ratchet
3/8 Inch Impact Gun
1/2 Inch Impact Gun
Pick
ICA61588
In Stock
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when to replace ignition coils
Texas
December 28, 2020
around 100,000 miles
The ignition coil on car is supposed to last around 100,000 miles or more. You will have reduced gas mileage when coil begins to go bad and becomes less able to transfer power. Your car requires more fuel to run, this means you will spend more money on gas than normal.
Customer Q&A
When is the best time to have this replaced? What does the mileage need to be before done ?July 10, 2018
Tommy H
10
We would not suggest replacing these items unless they have failed. If you believe you are experiencing issues with your ignition coils, we would suggest taking it to a mechanic to have diagnosed, thank you.
July 10, 2018
Jessica D
10
Replace as needed
February 24, 2019
B I
10
Ford coils start failing after 100000 miles. Mine started skipping at 124,000. So I replaced coils and plugs. Runs with more power and better fuel economy.
April 27, 2019
Steven E
10
Replace as needed
March 30, 2020
B O
Customer service
877-844-3393
Monday - Friday 8:00am - 9:30pm ET Saturday - Sunday 8:00am - 4:30pm ET
Dodge is a registered trademark of FCA US LLC. 1A Auto is not affiliated with or sponsored by Dodge or FCA US LLC.See all trademarks.
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