1994 Chevrolet Blazer V8 5.7L 8th Vin Digit K with Air Conditioning Pulley TRQ BPA03846

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Hi, I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners of 1A Auto. I want to help you save time and money repairing or maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20-plus years experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this to show you the correct way to install parts from 1AAuto.com. The right parts installed correctly: that's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.

In this video we're going to replace the idler pulley on this 2002 Sierra with a six liter. That's basically the same procedure for any 4.8, 5.3 or 6 liter Chevy or GMC from '99 to '07. The only tools you'll need are a flat blade screwdriver and a 15mm socket with ratchet.

The symptom of a bad idler is a squeaking as your engine is idling from the front of the engine which could also be your belt tensioner and if you want to see how to replace the belt tensioner just check out our other videos.

First, you'll want to move your intake hose by removing or loosening two clamps, one there and one there. We're going to kind of speed up through this part here. Use your screwdriver to kind of pry and break the rubber loose from the plastic. Maybe twist is a little bit as well, and then pull it from the throttle body and also pry it. There's a little clip that holds the radiator hose in. Pry that out with your screwdriver as well. Now I'll install it back on my intake hose. Make it easier for later. Now you can see your tensioner is right here so what you're going to do is take a 15mm socket and ratchet and put the socket on there. Then that takes the . you just move the ratchet clockwise and that takes the tension off. You can pull the belt either off of your tensioner or I'm actually over here pulling it off of the idler pulley in the middle. Then slowly release this back. It's going to actually go back further than the original point. Now get your wrench back off.

To remove the idler pulley you want to use a ratchet with a short 15mm socket. We'll just fast forward through taking that bolt out. Pull the assembly out. There's a washer on the back here. Make sure you don't lose that. The new idler pulley from 1A Auto. You can see the shape is a little bit different, but that's not going to really affect anything. Take off the spacer and then the bolt assembly. Then with the new one, make sure we put the spacer on the back here. We'll kind of speed through putting the bolt in and tightening it up. When you tighten this bolt up you want to tighten it up to probably about 35 to 40 foot-pounds.

To put the belt back on what you want to find is your routing diagram. We're going to be using this one right here and so the solid belt is the one that we're going to be looking at. What you're going to do is actually feed it down and around your crank pulley first and then up and over your water pump, around your power steering and then up in here. Then you'll pull. What I usually do is pull on here and then pull it up onto the alternator. So, I'll kind of show you that. Of course, I can't really film it very well so you'll have to take my word for it that that's what I'm doing. You can take the belt, feed it down, feed it down and just kind of make a loop. Make sure it goes all the way around your crank pulley, up over the water pump here and down and around the power steering pump. First, I went down and around my crank pulley, up and around the water pump with the back side of the belt, then around the power steering pump. Now I have this part that I can hold to put onto the alternator. I'm going to set it there for a second. Take my socket, put it on my 15mm bolt on my tensioner. Then while I pull this way on the tensioner, take the belt and pull it up onto the alternator. Then the tensioner takes over and I'm just going to push it on a little more to my idler pulley here. Make sure it's pretty well centered. After you have the belt on just a quick check. Make sure it's on all the pulleys. Look way down at the crank pulley and make sure that it's on correctly down there and also obviously over here at the alternator and the power steering pulley. Everything looks good.

We're going to fast forward though this section which is just putting that tube back in basically and pushing the rubber onto the plastic, tightening up the clamps and reinstalling that little clip that held the radiator hose to it. After that you should be pretty much all set.

We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.

Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.

Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.

In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the idler pulleys on this 2008 Dodge Ram. You'll need a new pulley or pulleys from 1AAuto.com, a 3/8" drive ratchet, and a 13mm socket, and this pulley fits a multitude of vehicles. This video will help you through a multitude of Dodge and Chrysler vehicles.

Here's your serpentine belt. Before removing, you'll want to make sure you have the diagram for it, usually located under the hood or on the radiator support of your vehicle. Using the drive from a 3/8" ratchet, you'll insert it into the slot on the tensioner. Remove the tension from the belt, take it off a pulley.

Your smooth idler pulley is located directly below your alternator. There's a second smooth idler pulley located below the belt tensioner. Installation and removal is the same as the one above. Remove the 13mm bolt in the center of the pulley. The pulley will come right out with it.

Reinstall your idler pulley. These are available from 1AAuto.com, but this pulley seems okay. We're not going to waste a good part changing it. Refer to your diagram or drawing to ensure that your serpentine belt is routed properly.

Install your 3/8" ratchet into your tensioner, release the belt tension, and install the remainder of your belt over your alternator pulley. If your serpentine belt fell off during the repair, or if you decide to replace your serpentine belt at the same time, here's a quick run-through of how to route the belt onto the pulleys properly.

Thanks for tuning in. We hope this video helped you out. Next time you need parts for your car, please visit 1AAuto.com. Also check out our other helpful how-to and diagnosis videos.

Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com. Your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet.

Hi I am Mike Green. I am one of the owners of 1A Auto. I want to help you save time and money repairing or maintaining your vehicle. I am going to use my 20 plus years experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this, to show you the correct way to install parts from 1aauto.com. The right parts installed correctly; that's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.

In this video we are going to show you how to replace the serpentine belt idler pulley on this 2001 Ford Taurus with a 3.0L. The only tools you will need are a 15mm wrench and a little bit larger wrench for leverage and also an 8mm wrench to unhook your battery.

The squeaking noise is a bad idler pulley; pretty common symptom. First you want to disconnect your negative battery cable. You will probably need to use an 8mm wrench to loosen it. Right here is your idler pulley and right down and below is your belt tensioner. What you want to do is take a 15mm wrench and put it on to that belt tensioner. You are going to push it clockwise to loosen the tension on the belt. What I am doing is using a larger wrench to hook on to that 15mm wrench to give it some more leverage. I am going to pull that idler pulley over and as I push you might be able to see the tension give on the belt and I flip the belt right off the idler pulley. I can pull the belt up and out and the wrenches up and out.

Put your 15mm wrench on there. Now I am going to do the rest of this by hand and then pull the idler pulley up and out. You can see there, and what I am going to do is take that washer and I am going to remove that washer so that I can take the bolt out of the pulley. Here we've got the new pulley with the bolt in it, down and in; belt out of there, bolt started.

Now I am going to put the serpentine belt back on. Here is a diagram of how it goes on, on this 3.0L with AC. Right now I am working it down onto the belt tensioner, around the water pump and the belt tensioner, and then I am going to have it up and I am actually going to work it down underneath the idler pulley. Now I have a loop that goes up next to the alternator in my left hand there. I am going to put my 15mm wrench on my tensioner. I am using the larger wrench; I am going to hook it on there for more leverage. As I pull on the tensioner to release tension on the belt, I will pull the belt up and on to the alternator.

Release the tensioner and the belts all pretty much routed. I am just doing check, look down in there and check and make sure that everything is on correctly. Now running the engine it is nice and quiet. No more squealing, squeaking, or screeching.

We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com. Your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll free 888-844-3393. We're the company that is here for you on the internet and in person.

Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the serpentine belt idler pulley.

When you start your vehicle up and you can hear a high pitched squeak, not quite a belt squeal, but you just hear some squeaking from your engine compartment, it can sometimes be this idler pulley. We'll show you how to do that. The only tools you'll need are an 18 mm wrench and a 15 mm wrench. To change this idler pulley, first we're going to remove the belt, so 18mm wrench, your tensioner is right down here. Put the wrench right on the bolt, lift it up, just pull the belt right from there. You can actually let the belt go back tense. 15mm wrench. Before I do that, if you feel any play here, which I'm just twisting it and I can feel, I can see the pulley moving a little bit, and I can hear some shaking, so the bearings are starting to go bad. Pull it off, take the bolt out, take this plastic spacer off. Pull through, tighten it right on with your 15mm wrench, probably want to tighten about 20-25 foot-pounds. Use your 18mm back down on the tensioner, pull up, and you're all set.

We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll free: 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the internet and in person.

This video brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Hi I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners of 1AAuto.com. I want to help you save time and money repairing and maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20 plus years' experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this to show you the correct way to install parts from 1AAuto.com. The right parts installed correctly that's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.

In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the idler pulley for you serpentine belt on this '98 explorer. The procedure's the same for a lot of explorers with both the V6 and V8 engines. The tools you'll need are 8mm wrench, flat blade screwdriver, 3/8 drive ratchet handle, and a 15mm socket ratchet and handle. Disconnect the negative battery cable with an 8mm or 5/16 wrench. You're going to want to pull your intake hose back, which is fairly easy. You're going to loosen up this clamp here and then you want to unclamp your air filter box. Pull that off of your throttle body. Pull this up and you can flip this up and move it away. Now to remove the belt, right here is your belt tensioner and you want to take a 3/8 drive ratchet handle and it is square hole right in the tensioner. Put my wrench down in there and push down and you can the belt loosen up and slide it right off of the idler pulley and let your wrench back up, and you can take the belt off of all the components. Reach down and lift it off of the crank shaft and it comes up and off.

This right here is your idler pulley. Once you get your belt off you can actually test it, just try to shake it back and forth and spin it and you shouldn't hear any noise. If you hear noise or you feel play you'll want to replace it. This one actually is in good shape so we'll put it right back on. You got your 15mm socket on there, and a little trick for extra leverage, I put a larger wrench down around my ratchet handle and I pull nice and easy on the big wrench and that gives me the extra leverage and keeps my hands out of this area so they don't get cut up. Once it's loose, I can just use my ratchet. Then you do need to twist this little lock washer off. The bolt comes out and see there's little bushing right here. Here's a new pulley from 1AAuto, the original pulley. You can see they're both the same. We tested this one and it was still in good shape so I'll put that one back on. It's pretty easy. You put the bolt through and make sure this washer gets on the back, hold everything together, put it right back into place.

I'm going to use the same trick with my big wrench, tighten up and put the belt back on, very important. Here's your belt diagram. It shows how the belt is routed. What we want to do is make a little loop and work it around the crank shaft here first and then we'll work around everything else. Make that loop and make it tight and pass the belt under the shaft of the fan a little bit, get it into your other hand, get it up under the crank shaft and around the whole crank shaft and the top. Take the belt up and over the water pump, around the power steering pump and ac compressor, over the alternator and into the tensioner, press on it here. Make sure everything's lined up well. Push your tensioner down and in with your wrench then slide the belt underneath the idler and then you're all set. Put the air hose back over. Push it on the there, push it back in here. Then the three tabs right here, make sure they go into the right slots. Clip it back on. Make sure that's pushed on there well. Tighten your clamp back up. Make sure all these connections are still good. You're all set.

We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet, please feel free to call us toll free at 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the internet and in person.

Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.

Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.

In this video, I'm going to show you how to replace two of the idler pulleys on this 2008 Equinox with a 3.4-liter, same as a Torrent with the 3.4-liter. Replacing the idler pulley is actually quite easy, but you do have to remove the air box and a couple of other things to make it easy to get there. Tools you'll need are a flat blade screwdriver, 10mm, 15mm, and 18mm socket with ratchets and extensions, a 3/8 drive ratchet or flex handle.

To get to it, you have to remove the intake tube. Not too difficult, there's a plug here, you just take a little tab, move it to the side, and pull that off. Then there's two clamps to loosen. I'm going to speed this up a little bit. What I found, actually, is you only need to loosen up the clamp that's on the engine side or closer to the engine, and then you pull the tube off the engine. Actually, that's good enough. Now there's a couple of clips, you just pull off with your thumbs and you can lift this up. To get to your air box up and off, there's a little safety clamp here that you'll want to remove carefully. Then you can disconnect this harness and pull this right out. 10mm bolt right back here, remove that. You probably take your air cleaner out. Now your air box will come right up, pull it back and out. There is a harness right here, just pull that up and out and take your air box out.

You'll want to put a jack right underneath the engine. With your air box out of the way, you want to remove your engine mount, and that's why you're supporting the vehicle with a jack. It's 18mm nuts on the outside, and then 15mm bolts on the engine side. Remove those two nuts then, jack the engine up a little bit, remove the 15mm bolts, and then you can remove, you'll see me remove the mount. In this next part, it's a little difficult to see what I'm doing, so I drew an arrow. The arrow points to your belt tensioner, and you can see down at the bottom, if you're looking at it in good enough resolution, that the tensioner has a small 3/8 square hole in it so you take a 3/8 drive flex handle. If you jack up the engine enough, you probably get a regular ratchet handle on there. You put it into that square hole, and you'll see what you do with it.

Now here's your tensioner, and you're going to need a flexible handle like this. Basically, you just want to put the handle in, flex that into the tensioner, and push it in. Then you can pull up on your handle, let the tension off the belt, take the belt off, and slowly let your handle back down and out. In this shot, you'll notice the belt is gone. To replace any of the idler pulleys, you really don't have to remove your belt all the way, you can just loosen it, and then take the idler pulleys off and back on. If you do remove it, I do have a diagram later in the video that shows you how to get it back on. There are two of these smooth style idler pulleys, one's right on top, nice and easy, 15mm socket and ratchet. Remove the bolt, just take note of how it's installed. Make sure you install the new one the exact same way.

To reinstall, tighten the bolt to about 30 to 35 foot-pounds, don't over tighten it. There's another smooth idler pulley right down here, put a 15mm wrench on it and I'm just going to put it on like that. What I suggest, take another wrench, hook right into your 15mm, that will give you some extra leverage to loosen up that bolt. I'm going to fast-forward here. Once you get it loosened up, it's just a matter of reaching down in there and getting the bolt off. No real, great, easy way to do it, you just got to keep working the wrench, it's a tight close quarter. Again, once you get it off, take note of how it's installed, make sure you install your new one the same way. Use the same trick to tighten it.

Next up we're going to put the belt back on. I am going to pick it up just from having the belt preliminarily routed. Here is a diagram to help you route it if you either took your belt off or if it fell off a couple of pulleys and you weren't sure how to get it back on. Put your bar in and pull up on your tensioner. Put your belt down onto this idler pulley, make sure it's on the alternator well enough. Let your tensioner go. With your engine jacked up high enough, you can get that right out. Now put your mount back on and start the bolts. You can let your engine down some. Make sure you get the bolts started first. Speed it up here some. I'll start those bolts in, just make sure the jack is positioned so that the engine is just barely lifting up on that mount and preliminarily tighten those bolts. Those are 15mm bolts. Then let the engine down some and put on the 18mm nuts. Then preliminarily tighten them. Then I'm going to tighten the 18mm nuts to 85 foot-pounds and then I'm going to tighten the 15mm bolts to 45 foot-pounds.I

I'm going to put my air box back down in and my wiring harnesses go up above. Now there are two rubber plugs that go in the holes in the front. Guide them in place, push them forward. Tighten up that bolt nice and firm, and then make sure you put the pin for the wiring harness back in place. Put the air cleaner back in, make sure it's seated correctly. It does have a little tab here so make sure it goes in the right way. Put the hose in first and make sure the harnesses doesn't get in your way, Down in place, put that back on, clip that back on, pop that one back on, and make sure that's all back and tighten up the clamps. Be sure to reconnect that hose and that right there. This little lock inserts from the back like that.

We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.

Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years. We're dedicated to delivering quality auto parts, expert customer service, fast and free shipping, all backed by our 100% satisfaction guarantee. Visit us at 1AAuto.com, your trusted source for quality auto parts.

In this video, we're going to be working with our 2006 Ford Explorer 4.6 liter V8. We're going to show you how to remove and replace your vehicle's serpentine belt tensioner pulley. If you like this video please click subscribe. We have a ton more information on this and many other vehicles. If you need this part for your car you can follow the link down in the description over to 1AAuto.com. Here are the items you'll need for this repair.

Loosen the clamp on the air box side of the intake duct with a flat blade screwdriver. You'll then want to disconnect the breather lines. There's a little green tab here that you just pull back and pop them off. You'll then need to undo the clamp on the throttle body. You'll then want to remove the intake duct.

For some jobs like your alternator or idler pulleys, it may not be necessary to remove the belt fully. However, if the pulley has been dragging from a bad bearing or a weak alternator, it's probably damaged your belt a bit too and it's not a bad idea to replace it while you're in here.

Using a 1/2" drive ratchet, place it into the square drive of the serpentine belt tensioner and rotate the tensioner clockwise to release pressure and remove the belt from one of the pulleys. It's usually easiest to do this from a smooth pulley. Then carefully release tension and remove your ratchet. Remove the serpentine belt from under the A/C compressor and then pull the loop up and through over your tensioner. You'll then want to get it out from under the crack where it loops over the water pump. You've already unhooked it from the idler pulley on this side so loop it out from the grooved idler pulley and the power steering pump and remove your belt.

Remove the three ten millimeter bolts along the top of the serpentine belt tensioner with the ten millimeter socket and ratchet. You can then remove your tensioner from the vehicle.

Using a 13 millimeter socket and ratchet, remove the 13 millimeter bolt securing the pulley to the tensioner. You can then remove the pulley from the tensioner.

Here we have our old tensioner pulley that we removed from our vehicle and our new part from 1AAuto.com. This is a great option to have because sometimes your tensioner pulley goes bad and the tensioner itself is okay, so you can save money and reuse your old tensioner by installing a new pulley. You can see the pulleys are the exact same size and shape, with a brand new bearing on the new one. If the pulley seizes or gets too much slack it can grind and groan as well as creating issues with your serpentine belt's tension, as well as potentially wearing it down, overheating it, or breaking it. Fortunately this new part from 1A Auto will go on direct fit just like our original equipment and fix you up right.

The new pulley comes with a small spacer. This is to make the part universal so it fits a wide variety of applications. We don't need that so you can just drop it right onto the tensioner, install your 13 millimeter bolt, and tighten it back down with a 13 millimeter socket and ratchet.

Reinstall the serpentine belt tensioner along with its three ten millimeter bolts. Once you've got the bolts started, go ahead and tighten them down with your ten millimeter socket and ratchet.

Now reinstalling the serpentine belt on this is going to be pretty difficult to show. You want to start with a loop and send it down and around the crank pulley. Now you're going to take the passenger side of the belt and bring it down between the tensioner and the A/C compressor at the bottom of the motor. With the right side of the belt, you're going to go up and over the water pump pulley all the way to the button of the motor on the driver side, where you'll go under the grooved idler pulley, as well as under the power steering pump pulley. Install your 1/2" drive into the tensioner and rotate it clockwise to release the belt tension. It's usually easiest to get over the alternator, then move your hand to the other side of the engine and go under the smooth idler pulley on the driver side, and then just use a light or your hand to check the belt path and make sure that everything went over and under all the pulleys currently and that it isn't hung up anywhere.

Reinstall the intake duct and pop on the two breather connections, then tighten it down with a flat blade screwdriver.

Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.