Replaces
This part doesn’t fit a . Select from parts that fit.
Specify your vehicle's year, make and model to guarantee fit.
Frequently bought together
Specify your vehicle's year, make and model to guarantee fit.
If your vehicle isn't listed, search Idler & Tensioner Pulleys
Item Condition:
New
1 Year Warranty
This item is backed by our 1-year warranty. In the event this item should fail during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
FREE Shipping is standard on Orders shipped to the lower 48 States (Contiguous United States). Standard shipping charges apply to Hawaii, Alaska and US Territories. Shipping is not available to Canada.
Expedited is available on checkout to the United States, excluding Alaska, Hawaii and US Territories as well as P.O. Boxes and APO/FPO/DPO addresses. Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
Created on:
Tools used
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the idler pulley on a Ford Escort ZX2 with 2 liter dual overhead cam engine. It's going to be pretty similar to most of the Ford Escorts with that engine type. The items needed are a new idler pulley from 1AAuto.com; 10, 13, and 15mm socket and socket wrench; a 17mm wrench; and a floor jack.
The first thing you're going to want, before you do this repair, is a belt diagram and we have a nice one made up for you right here. It should give you a pretty good representation of how the belt is routed. Starting at the top left, that's the alternator. Then, going to the right, that's an idler pulley, to the power steering pump them down to the A/C compressor, then over to the crank shaft, then to the tensioner pulley, then to the water pump, another idler pulley and up to the alternator.
In the lower front and right in the wheel area, there's seven 10mm bolts that hold this splash pan in place. In this case, on our car, there's only four, but you're going to remove all of them. Actually, what we find is we take off one and the pan kind of bends down, and we try to remove the other ones but the clips in behind were so rusted that we decided we didn't want to break all of them. We just left it that way and let the pan, or the splash pan hang down out of the way.
I've got a 13mm socket on the end of my ratchet and I'm going to put it on the bolt that goes through the pulley, on the tensioner pulley. I'm going to turn it clockwise to remove the pressure on the belt and then slide the belt off the crank and the rest of the pulleys. The rest of the way, it's a matter of just pulling it down, twisting it a little bit to get it off some of the pulleys and you could also pull it off from the top, as well.
We've got the jack under the oil pan, just enough to support it. We're not really lifting the engine, we're just supporting it. I'm taking out the 17mm bolt that holds on the engine mount. I'm going to fast forward through me removing that bolt. We've got Mike jacking up the engine just a little bit to give us a little more clearance. Here, I've got the wrench on the idler pulley. I'm going to fast forward removing the bolt.
We've got the old part and we've got the identical part from 1A Auto. We're going to fast forward this but it's just the idler pulley and bolt going back in.
Here, I'm reinstalling the bolt for the engine mount and I'm having Mike lower the engine slowly so it lines the holes back up. Once you've got the bolt in, just go ahead and tighten it up.
You're not really going to be able to see me doing the belt, but snake it back in and follow the diagram for routing it. That first step that Don just did, he just got the belt down below the A/C and the crank pulley, preliminarily. Here, I'm just continuing the push the belt down in and trying to get it around as many of the pulleys as I can. I'm just going to speed it along a little bit as I get the belt on. What Don just did there was, there's just some clearance issues getting by the water pump and those tensioner pulleys, he just kind of twisted it to the side and got it over on its way to the alternator. With the top part, it's pretty much done. It's around the alternator, underneath the idler and over the power steering. I want to get this belt on the other side of this pulley, the ribbed pulley here. I'm going to twist it and try not to have it fall of the alternator pulley which is right above it. All right, good.
What we've done here is we've pulled a loop across and you can see I'm helping him out a little bit. I'm holding the belt off of the A/C pulley so he can pull the loop from that tensioner on the back side of the motor towards the front and put it on to the tensioner in the front of the engine. In order to get the wrench in there, it's better to have the pulley off of the crank rather than the A/C pulley, so he just transfers it, takes it off the crank so he has enough room to get it on. I'm using a 15mm here, which is what the new one came with and turning it clockwise. I have to release the tension on the bearing and I've got to make sure, too, that all my belts are on the pulleys because if they're off a little bit, it's not going to give me the room I need. Everything is on except for the crank pulley, and as I do this, it's going to give me room. I'm going to hold it in tight. You can see, Don. He's working the wrench with the right hand and then using the left hand push the belt on to the crank pulley.
Make sure they're all on. Make sure all of them are on and the belt is lined up with the teeth on your pulleys and plug your AC back in. I'm just going to give it one more look up top, like below. I want to make sure that the toothed belt is seated correctly on the power steering, alternator, water pump and below this idler pulley. Once you've done that, just put the splash pan back up and bolt it back in place.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
Okay, friends. To get started on replacing our idler pulley, we're gonna have to remove the serpentine belt. To do that, you're gonna have to relieve tension with the tensioner right down here. But before we go ahead and do that, just take a quick note of your serpentine belt routing. Meaning by that is how it goes around all of the pulleys. Once you have a quick note of that, just go ahead and use your 3/8 ratchet, we're gonna come right down into the groove, turn this counterclockwise, that's gonna release the tension, and we'll take the belt right off of the idler pulley.
At this point, we can continue on to removing our 13-millimeter headed bolt right here, and that'll remove the idler pulley. There's the idler pulley. Next, we need to remove this tab right here so we can get our mounting bolt out of there. Most times with these, what you can use is a pair of cutters. We're just gonna grab onto one of these ears, try to break this off. At this point, we can take the bolt with our washer off, and then remove the adapter as well. There's our idler pulley.
Now, we just wanna inspect this area here where the mounting plate is gonna be. We wanna make sure that it's nice and clean. After you're sure of that, go ahead and take your little adapter here, put it on the backside of the brand new pulley, start your bolt through. This looks great. Just like this. Now, let's get this onto the engine.
First, what we're gonna do, is we're just gonna go ahead and snug this up so it's bottomed out. Once we've done that, let's torque it to 37 foot-pounds. Now that that's torqued, let's get our belt back on there.
Now, if you set your belt inside the grooves, you're gonna see it fits perfectly. Essentially, just make sure it's not hanging off like this. If it does, it'll ruin the belt. Start this onto all my grooves. Make sure you're on all of the flat pulleys as well. This looks great. Okay. So, I have my belt on here now. Now, you just need to double-check. Like I said before, make sure it's sitting inside all the grooves. If it's hanging out, you're gonna ruin your belt.
Okay, friends. So, we successfully replaced our idler pulley. All you have to do now is start up the truck, let her run for 5 or 10 seconds, turn it off, come back out, and double-check to make sure your belt is on all those pulleys properly. Assuming it is, take it for a road test.
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and the next time you need a part for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the idler pulley on this 1996 Chevy Tahoe with the 5.7-liter V8 engine. It's the same part in similar process on a large variety of GM vehicles, and it fits the Tahoes from 1996 to 2008. The items you'll need for this include: a new idler pulley from 1AAuto.com; a 10mm and 13mm socket and a ratchet with an extension; and a 3/8-inch ratchet.
First, we need to just remove this cable. Push back on that tab and pull the harness up and out. Next, you want to remove this series of 10mm bolts that line this panel. We'll just fast-forward as Don removes each of those. Now, lift that shroud up and off.
Now, using your 3/8-inch ratchet, just push it in to that square hole. Then when you push down on it, it will loosen up the tension on the belt allowing you to pull it free. Just start off by pulling off the alternator, and then carefully let the ratchet up, pull it out, remove your belt the rest of the way, and pull it over that fan. Your idler pulley is located right here, and it's held in with a 13mm bolt. Just go ahead and remove that. Once that's removed, the pulley will pull right off.
Take your new idler pulley and push it into place with the bolt already through it, and just tighten that bolt up. Now, to put the serpentine belt back on, you're going to want to use this belt routing diagram. If you don't have AC, you use the dash line. If you do, then you're going to use the solid line, and you just want to follow this and put your belt on in this order. It's kind of hard to show Don doing it, so we're just going to fast-forward as he fits it over each of the pulleys.
When all that's left is your alternator, put that 3/8-inch ratchet back into your tensioner, push down, put the belt up on the alternator, and then carefully release the ratchet and pull it out. Fit that shroud back down into place, and make sure all of your holes are lining up. We'll just fast-forward as Don replaces that series of 10mm bolts. Now, just push that harness back into that clip and push it down into place.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
Hi, I'm Mike from 1AAuto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years! We're dedicated to delivering quality auto parts, expert customer service, and fast and free shipping, all backed by our 100% satisfaction guarantee. So visit us at 1AAuto.com, your trusted source for quality auto parts.
In this video, we're going to be working with our 1996 GMC Sierra K1500 5.7-liter V8. We're going to show you how to remove and replace the idler pulley on your serpentine belt.
If you like this video, please click subscribe. We have a ton more information on this truck as well as many other makes and models. If you ever need parts for your car, you can follow the link down in the description over to 1AAuto.com.
Here are the items you'll need for this repair: 13mm socket, ratchet, socket extension, torque wrench
Be sure your vehicle has a belt path diagram somewhere on the cowl or under the hood before removing the belt. If it's missing or unclear, be sure to draw it somewhere under the hood or take a good picture. Put the 3/8 drive of a ratchet into the square on your serpentine belt tensioner and turn it counterclockwise to release tension. Then simply pull the belt off of any one of the pulleys, slowly release the tension from the tensioner. Remove your ratchet, and take the belt off of the pulleys.
Your idler pulley is located at the top center of the engine at the front, right between your alternator and your A/C if your vehicle came equipped. Use a 13mm socket and ratchet to remove the 13mm bolt in the center of the pulley. Remove the pulley from the vehicle.
Now our pulley is still in okay shape, so rather than waste a new part, we're going to reinstall it, but installing your new part will be exactly the same. Simply line up the bolt, which is captured inside of the pulley so it doesn't come out. We'll bring that in as far as we can by hand and then tighten it down with our 13mm socket and ratchet before torqueing. Torque this bolt to 37 foot pounds. Make sure that it rolls smoothly and freely.
Hook the serpentine belt around the crank pulley or harmonic balancer from the passenger side. Be sure that it seats fully into the grooves of the pulley and doesn't lay over the edge on either side. Wrap the driver's side of the belt around the water pump, under the power steering pump on the other side, and up and over the AC compressor. I already have the left side wrapped around the tensioner here just because that's where it falls. Then, from over the AC compressor under the idler pulley, reinstall the ratchet into the tensioner. Turn the ratchet counterclockwise to release the tension, and install your belt over the alternator. Take a second just to look around and make sure that your belt is seated and routed properly before releasing the tension and removing your ratchet.
Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the idler pulley on a Ford Escort ZX2 with 2 liter dual overhead cam engine. It's going to be pretty similar to most of the Ford Escorts with that engine type. The items needed are a new idler pulley from 1AAuto.com; 10, 13, and 15mm socket and socket wrench; a 17mm wrench; and a floor jack.
The first thing you're going to want, before you do this repair, is a belt diagram and we have a nice one made up for you right here. It should give you a pretty good representation of how the belt is routed. Starting at the top left, that's the alternator. Then, going to the right, that's an idler pulley, to the power steering pump them down to the A/C compressor, then over to the crank shaft, then to the tensioner pulley, then to the water pump, another idler pulley and up to the alternator.
In the lower front and right in the wheel area, there's seven 10mm bolts that hold this splash pan in place. In this case, on our car, there's only four, but you're going to remove all of them. Actually, what we find is we take off one and the pan kind of bends down, and we try to remove the other ones but the clips in behind were so rusted that we decided we didn't want to break all of them. We just left it that way and let the pan, or the splash pan hang down out of the way.
I've got a 13mm socket on the end of my ratchet and I'm going to put it on the bolt that goes through the pulley, on the tensioner pulley. I'm going to turn it clockwise to remove the pressure on the belt and then slide the belt off the crank and the rest of the pulleys. The rest of the way, it's a matter of just pulling it down, twisting it a little bit to get it off some of the pulleys and you could also pull it off from the top, as well.
We've got the jack under the oil pan, just enough to support it. We're not really lifting the engine, we're just supporting it. I'm taking out the 17mm bolt that holds on the engine mount. I'm going to fast forward through me removing that bolt. We've got Mike jacking up the engine just a little bit to give us a little more clearance. Here, I've got the wrench on the idler pulley. I'm going to fast forward removing the bolt.
We've got the old part and we've got the identical part from 1A Auto. We're going to fast forward this but it's just the idler pulley and bolt going back in.
Here, I'm reinstalling the bolt for the engine mount and I'm having Mike lower the engine slowly so it lines the holes back up. Once you've got the bolt in, just go ahead and tighten it up.
You're not really going to be able to see me doing the belt, but snake it back in and follow the diagram for routing it. That first step that Don just did, he just got the belt down below the A/C and the crank pulley, preliminarily. Here, I'm just continuing the push the belt down in and trying to get it around as many of the pulleys as I can. I'm just going to speed it along a little bit as I get the belt on. What Don just did there was, there's just some clearance issues getting by the water pump and those tensioner pulleys, he just kind of twisted it to the side and got it over on its way to the alternator. With the top part, it's pretty much done. It's around the alternator, underneath the idler and over the power steering. I want to get this belt on the other side of this pulley, the ribbed pulley here. I'm going to twist it and try not to have it fall of the alternator pulley which is right above it. All right, good.
What we've done here is we've pulled a loop across and you can see I'm helping him out a little bit. I'm holding the belt off of the A/C pulley so he can pull the loop from that tensioner on the back side of the motor towards the front and put it on to the tensioner in the front of the engine. In order to get the wrench in there, it's better to have the pulley off of the crank rather than the A/C pulley, so he just transfers it, takes it off the crank so he has enough room to get it on. I'm using a 15mm here, which is what the new one came with and turning it clockwise. I have to release the tension on the bearing and I've got to make sure, too, that all my belts are on the pulleys because if they're off a little bit, it's not going to give me the room I need. Everything is on except for the crank pulley, and as I do this, it's going to give me room. I'm going to hold it in tight. You can see, Don. He's working the wrench with the right hand and then using the left hand push the belt on to the crank pulley.
Make sure they're all on. Make sure all of them are on and the belt is lined up with the teeth on your pulleys and plug your AC back in. I'm just going to give it one more look up top, like below. I want to make sure that the toothed belt is seated correctly on the power steering, alternator, water pump and below this idler pulley. Once you've done that, just put the splash pan back up and bolt it back in place.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and the next time you need a part for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the idler pulley on this 1996 Chevy Tahoe with the 5.7-liter V8 engine. It's the same part in similar process on a large variety of GM vehicles, and it fits the Tahoes from 1996 to 2008. The items you'll need for this include: a new idler pulley from 1AAuto.com; a 10mm and 13mm socket and a ratchet with an extension; and a 3/8-inch ratchet.
First, we need to just remove this cable. Push back on that tab and pull the harness up and out. Next, you want to remove this series of 10mm bolts that line this panel. We'll just fast-forward as Don removes each of those. Now, lift that shroud up and off.
Now, using your 3/8-inch ratchet, just push it in to that square hole. Then when you push down on it, it will loosen up the tension on the belt allowing you to pull it free. Just start off by pulling off the alternator, and then carefully let the ratchet up, pull it out, remove your belt the rest of the way, and pull it over that fan. Your idler pulley is located right here, and it's held in with a 13mm bolt. Just go ahead and remove that. Once that's removed, the pulley will pull right off.
Take your new idler pulley and push it into place with the bolt already through it, and just tighten that bolt up. Now, to put the serpentine belt back on, you're going to want to use this belt routing diagram. If you don't have AC, you use the dash line. If you do, then you're going to use the solid line, and you just want to follow this and put your belt on in this order. It's kind of hard to show Don doing it, so we're just going to fast-forward as he fits it over each of the pulleys.
When all that's left is your alternator, put that 3/8-inch ratchet back into your tensioner, push down, put the belt up on the alternator, and then carefully release the ratchet and pull it out. Fit that shroud back down into place, and make sure all of your holes are lining up. We'll just fast-forward as Don replaces that series of 10mm bolts. Now, just push that harness back into that clip and push it down into place.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
877-844-3393
Monday - Friday 8:00am - 9:30pm ET
Saturday - Sunday 8:00am - 4:30pm ET
Specify your vehicle's year, make and model to guarantee fit.
This part doesn’t fit a . Select from parts that fit.
If your vehicle isn't listed, search Idler & Tensioner Pulleys