Kit Includes: (2) Front Sway Bar Links (2) Rear Sway Bar Links (2) Front Strut & Spring Assemblies (2) Rear Strut & Spring Assemblies
Specification
Trim
Limited
Drivetrain
All Wheel Drive
Steering / Suspension Option
without Sport Suspension
Location
Front & Rear
TRQ suspension kits are manufactured using premium raw materials and coatings for extended service life. Each TRQ suspension component is designed to be a direct, maintenance-free replacement to the stock unit. To extend the life of your steering and suspension components, TRQ recommends replacing components in pairs, sets, or kits. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Application Specific Design: No modifications necessary
Anti-Corrosion Coated: Enhanced surface life
Pre-greased: No additional maintenance required
Kitted for Restored Performance: Improved road-feel and handling
Replacing struts used to require specialized tools to compress, remove, and transfer the old spring and mount. Our Pre-assembled, complete strut & spring assemblies come with all new parts and make the job much quicker and easier for the do-it-yourself mechanic.
Strut & spring assembly contains:
Upper Strut Mount
Strut Bearing
Coil Spring
Boot & Bumper Kit
Gas-charged Strut
Our steering and suspension components are pre-greased and sealed for long life and do not require the extra maintenance typically required by greaseable versions.
Item Condition:New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Chromium (Hexavalent Compounds), which is known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
FREE Shipping is standard on orders shipped to the lower 48 States (Contiguous United States). Standard shipping charges apply to Hawaii and Alaska.
Shipping is not available to a P.O. Box, APO/FPO/DPO addresses, US Territories, or Canada for this item.
Expedited is available on checkout to the United States, excluding Alaska, Hawaii.
Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
How to Replace Front Sway Bar Links 2006-11 Toyota Camry
How to Replace Rear Sway Bar End Links 2002-06 Toyota Camry
How to Replace Rear Sway Bar Links 2012-17 Toyota Camry
How to Replace Front Sway Bar Link 2001-2007 Toyota Highlander
How to Replace Rear Sway Bar End Links 2002-06 Toyota Camry
How to Replace Front Sway Bar Link 2014-2019 Toyota Highlander
How to Replace Rear Sway Bar Links 2012-2017 Toyota Camry
How to Replace Rear Sway Bar Link 2001-2007 Toyota Highlander
Created on:
Tools used
Socket Extensions
Torque Wrench
17mm Wrench
Rust Penetrant
Pry Bar
18mm Wrench
17mm Socket
Jack Stands
18mm Socket
Brake Parts Cleaner
21mm Socket
21mm wrench
6mm Allen Wrench
Reciprocating Saw
Ratchet
Wire Brush
Floor Jack
1/2 Inch Breaker Bar
1. Removing the Wheel
Pry off the hub cap with a pry bar
Loosen the lug nuts with the vehicle on the ground
Raise and support the vehicle
Remove the lug nuts
Pull the wheel off the hub
2. Removing the Sway Bar Link
Spray rust penetrant on the upper sway bar link nut
Clean the upper sway bar link nut with a wire brush
Hold the upper sway bar link nut with a 6mm hex socket and breaker bar
Loosen the nut with a 17mm wrench
If the nut is stuck, hold the sway bar link ball joint with locking pliers if necessary
Remove the 17mm nut
If the nut remains stuck, cut the sway bar link stud with a hack saw or reciprocating saw
Hold the lower sway bar link ball joint with locking pliers
Remove the 17mm bolt from the lower sway bar link stud
Remove the sway bar link from the vehicle
3. Installing the Sway Bar Link
Hang the sway bar link where it attaches to the strut
Slide the sway bar link stud into sway bar
Start the 18mm nuts onto the sway bar link studs by hand
Hold the sway bar link ball joints with an 18mm wrench
Tighten the nuts with an 18mm socket and ratchet
Torque the 18mm nuts to 55 foot-pounds
4. Installing the Wheel
Slide the wheel onto the hub
Start the lug nuts by hand, with the tapered side facing the wheel
Tighten the lug nuts preliminarily
Lower the vehicle to the ground
Torque the lug nuts to 76 foot-pounds in a star pattern
Line up the hub cap with the valve stem
Push the hub cap onto the wheel
Hi. I'm Mike from 1AAuto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years!
Use a large pry bar or a flat bladed screw driver to remove the wheel cover. Just kind of slide it between the wheel and the plastic and pop it off. These lug nuts are a 21 millimeter socket. I'm going to use that and a breaker bar to loosen them while the vehicle's on the ground. Raise this part of the vehicle. We're using a two post lift, but you can use a jack and jack stands. The lug nuts are loose. I’m going to take my socket and finish removing them. I’m just going to hold onto the wheel and take the last lug nut off. It's going to be loose. You don't want to drop it. You can drop the lug nut. That's okay. You just don't want the wheel to fall.
I’m going to disconnect the sway bar link from the strut. Going to spray some rust penetrant on this upper sway bar mount. Use a wire brush to clean off some of the rusty bits. These can be difficult to take off, they get rusty and then the ball joint spins. It does have a hex spot here to put in a six millimeter hex drive. A lot of times that strips almost instantly as soon as you try to break it free ad you end up having to put vice grips behind to grab onto the ball joint, because there's no point here for a wrench. We’re going to do our best to get this one off without having to cut it off.
So this is 17 millimeter nut. Try to break it free first. See, it's turning, it's turning the whole ball joint with it. It's really tight. I’m trying to clean out any rust and dirt that's in this hex drive so I can get the hex drive to sit as far possible inside here, so it doesn't strip. Use some brake parts cleaner, I've sprayed some oil in there and I've been working the hex drive in to try to clean it out. I can see it's going in a little deeper, trying to get this sit as best I can. That's as far as it will go. Spray some more rust penetrant on there. I'm going to try to counter hold this hex drive while I free it with the 17 millimeter boxed wrench. We'll see how this goes. Sometimes you have to brace that against like the strut ad these just have so much – see, it's moving. That's good. It's really tight, though, so I'm just going to put that there. I'm going to spray some more rust penetrant.
These are typically self-locking nuts, so they're a little bit, they're not perfectly round. They're kind of oblong and that can make removing them difficult and also the rust gets gummed up in the threads. So I'm trying to spin this on and off to try to work the rust penetrant into the threads. So as I kind of expected, working these back and forth this hex drive they basically always strip. It's nearly impossible to remove them without these stripping, no matter what you do. So the next step I'm going to get some vice grips and try to hold the ball joint back here and use a 17 millimeter socket and ratchet and continue to remove this nut.
I’m going to try to slide these locking pliers behind the ball joint on the sway bar link. I’ve got a 17 millimeter deep socket on this longer ratchet, going to try to remove these. It feels like it's turning. One thing to mention if you're going to have to remove sway bar links for any reason or think you're going to have to remove them for any reason, you should have new ones on hand. They're almost a one-time use part.
If you're as lucky as us, you'll have to resort to power tools or a hacksaw to cut these sway bar links free. I'll do my best to avoid the strut, I don't want to damage that. I just want to kind of cut on the – going to try to find the narrowest part of the ball joint and the sway bar link. I think I'm on there.
I've actually gone in here. Because these sway bar links get seized on here so easily, I went in and cut the boot away, the rubber boot. So that I can get locking pliers in here to get a better grip on it and it's kind of working by holding it. I'm able to turn the nut out. Worst case if I get loose enough and it just keeps spinning, then I will take a saw and cut it right here. But I'm going to keep trying it right now with the locking pliers. Got it.
Here are our old sway bar links from our vehicle. You can see where I had to cut them. I was able to finally get this one out, but still, these have been destroyed by trying to remove them and you can see they're kind of rounded here. There's no real way to counter hold them to remove the bolts. They are supposed to have a hex drive in here. That strips out pretty quickly when you're trying to remove them.
Here's a brand new sway bar link this is from 1AAuto.com. These actually have a six-point on them so you can put a wrench on here and tighten them down and it's not going to spin on you and when you want to remove them to do other services, you can put your wrench over here and spin this off without destroying the ball joint and the sway bar link. So this should fit great and work great in your vehicle.
Put these up. Get this one up top. You can bend these around. Slide it through. These nuts are locking nuts, so the hole is not perfectly round. It's kind of oblong. So when this starts to tighten it will lock and it won't want to back off.
These nuts are 18 millimeter get this one set up here. The counter hold on the back is 18 millimeters. I'm going to use a deep socket 18 millimeter in the front. Get these snugged down and I'll come back and torque them. Torque for these sway bar links is 55 foot-pounds, and repeat it on the other nut.
Reinstall our wheel. It’s important to note these lug nuts have a taper. Taper meets the wheel and matches the inside of the wheel. Don't install them on the flat side like this; that is incorrect. Install them with the taper to the wheel. It helps locate the wheel on the lug nut stud. I'm just using the socket and ratchet to bring these down snug before I put the car on the ground. Torque the lug nuts to 76 foot-pounds, going in a cross pattern. Reinstall the hub cap. You’ve got to line up the opening for the valve stem with the valve stem on the wheel. Just push it in place.
Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.
Tools used
21mm Socket
15mm Wrench
Torque Wrench
14mm Socket
15mm Socket
Socket Driver
Pry Bar
Jack Stands
Large Locking Pliers
Floor Jack
3/8 Inch Impact Gun
Tools used
14mm Wrench
Torque Wrench
17mm Socket
5mm Hex Socket
1/2 Inch Impact Gun
All right. One of the first things we need to do is safely raise and support the vehicle so the wheel's off the ground. We're gonna remove the lug nuts and take the tire off. Let's go ahead and get the proportion of the sway bar link off of the strut. Use your wrench, and then you're gonna need to use a tool to hold the center. There we are. Now, let's do the same to the lower. Let's get ready to install our brand new sway bar link.
Something I want you to look at is right here on the stud. You have an area that you can grab onto with a wrench. Start that nut on there. Let's get our sway bar link in here. Let's torque this to 55 foot-pounds. Do the same to the other one. Let's get the wheel back on here. We'll snug up all the lug nuts, and then, we'll torque them to 76 foot-pounds. With the wheel so it's just barely touching the ground, let's go ahead and torque these. Torqued.
Tools used
Torque Wrench
Socket Extensions
18mm Wrench
17mm Socket
18mm Socket
Safety Glasses
21mm Socket
Gloves
Socket Driver
Blowtorch
Large Locking Pliers
1/2 Inch Impact Socket Set
Swivel
1/2 Inch Impact Gun
Tools used
21mm Socket
15mm Wrench
Torque Wrench
14mm Socket
15mm Socket
Socket Driver
Pry Bar
Jack Stands
Large Locking Pliers
Floor Jack
3/8 Inch Impact Gun
Tools used
21mm Socket
Torque Wrench
Locking Pliers
18mm Wrench
17mm Socket
Jack Stands
18mm Socket
3/8 Inch Drive Ratchet
Floor Jack
Swivel
Safety Glasses
1/2 Inch Impact Gun
Tools used
Torque Wrench
15mm Socket
17mm Socket
Jack Stands
Safety Glasses
21mm Socket
Gloves
Wheel Chocks
Anti-Seize Grease
Ratchet
Floor Jack
1/2 Inch Breaker Bar
3/8 Inch Impact Gun
1/2 Inch Impact Gun
Tools used
21mm Socket
14mm Wrench
Torque Wrench
Locking Pliers
14mm Socket
3/8 Inch Impact Gun
SCA67192
In Stock
Product Reviews
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4.67/ 5.09
9 reviews
5 Stars
4 Stars
3 Stars
2 Stars
1 Star
6
3
0
0
0
Great fit, excellent quality = rides like new!
A
November 12, 2018
High quality product which fit perfectly for my 08 Highlander Sport 4WD. This kit saved me a ridiculous amount of money compared to dealership. My Highlander rides like the day I bought it!
Toyota Highlander strut kit.
Brandon
July 11, 2019
The product was as described and worked perfectly. I recommend this kit if you're doing the struts yourself. I was able to swap out the old struts with the news ones and the car rides like new. I recommend the sway bar links because you almost everytime have to cut the old ones off.
momma's ride
J
March 26, 2020
the 8 piece strut and stabilizer kit came in on the day they said it would. I am a certified diesel mechanic and when I say everything fit perfect it is no joke.Tthe price was fantastic and service excellent. Momma has a smooth ride again the suv sits level again and I am a happy man. thank you 1Aauto
M
October 8, 2020
The part is fit perfectly, deliver on time except the boxes are not wrapped good enough for the item when I get it
Complete struts
robert
June 8, 2021
I work for Mercedes Benz my technicians are very particular I have a 2008 highlander I use for transportation a lot of miles an on it 170k It needed struts all the way around I ordered from a1 complete struts with the Springs and the technician was so impressed he wrote down the brand of struts so that he would get him for the next time he did a job
Good first experience
Frank
July 1, 2021
Fast delivery, good quality and affordable price, very happy with the purchase, just a bit inconvenience with the a part but, customer service was very quick to resolve the issue and will take care of it soon.
2008 highlander sport awd
L
October 13, 2021
They are well made but gave 4 stars because I have to modify the struts in order to fit perfectly in my 2008 highlander awd sport.
MARK
October 13, 2021
These fit my 2008 Toyota Highland Sport very well. Watched a YouTube video on how to do it. I changed out the front two one Saturday morning and the back to the next Saturday morning.
2008 Highlander struts
David
November 12, 2021
Left front hose mounting tab had to be cut to fit up to the strut. A very minor issue. Otherwise a painless and rapid installation. Struts perform well. I didn't realize the original ones had lost as much performance as they had.
Customer Q&A
!I would like to know if this part fits a 2008 front wheel drive toyota highlander? and if it does not work I can return the partsMarch 28, 2021
Raul G
will this fit 2008 highlander hybrid awd ?October 13, 2021
Allen C
10
No, these parts are not listed to fit the hybrid model.
October 13, 2021
Andra M
10
I have a 2008 Toyota Highlander Sport. I purchased this kit from A-1 Auto and they fit very well. It took me a couple hours to complete the project. I did front two one day and the back two another day.
October 13, 2021
MARK E
Will this part work on my 09 Toyota highlander sport?March 7, 2023
John D
10
There should be an automatic compatability check on the website. I had a 2010 Highlander Sport Utility 4WD, that these were a perfect fit on. Excellent kit.
March 7, 2023
Eugene P
10
This set will not work. We do not carry the correct front set for your vehicle. We may carry the correct set for the rear. Can you confirm if the vehicle has AWD or FWD?
March 8, 2023
Andra M
Customer service
877-844-3393
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