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The radiator drain you can access from your passenger's front wheel well. Pull back on the inner fender. It's here. Now, you're looking at it from the middle of the vehicle. There's a nipple to put a hose on on the outside, so we'll put a rubber hose on. Put the rubber hose on, now you put your drain pan under. Put the hose right in to your drain pan. With a 19 mm wrench, and you should be able to break it free pretty easily and then turn it with your hand counterclockwise. Your coolant should start to drain out. Then loosen the radiator cap and let it drain. Once it's done draining, turn it clockwise to close it.
We're going to remove this whole panel, so we'll start by taking off the spare tire jack crank. Take that off, and now there's a series of clips. They have Phillips head screws in 'em. We'll show you how to get 'em out. There's four across the front, two more -- which are missing on this vehicle -- and then there's two clips back here, which are a different style, although I'm sure they should be this Phillips screw style.
So, the way these should come out is you turn 'em counterclockwise and very lightly almost pull up on the screwdriver while you're doing it so they come out. Then, once you have that out, whole clip will come up and out. You may run in to them where they don't want to come out that easily. In that case, you'll probably need a little 90 degree pick tool, although sometimes you can get a fingernail under there, but what you'll probably have to do is get a pick tool right in underneath just to pry up a little bit while you turn it. Then pull it out.
These ones back here are a different style. You pry up, pull the center up and pull it out, although I'm pretty sure these should be the Phillips screw style. Once you have all the clips off, panel lifts up and off. Now, remove this cover. Two 10 mm bolts on this side, and one over on the passenger's side. Remove those, 10 mm socket and ratchet. Loosen the throttle body clamp with a flat blade screwdriver, and just pull up and down on the whole ducting. There are tubes that go on the side. Once you pull off the throttle body, you can twist a little bit and pull those tubes free.
Clamp for the air filter, pull those off and there's two connectors. One, easy to see here. Press down on the tab and disconnect. You may press on the tab. Use your screwdriver, pry a little bit to help loosen it up. Connector's off, then there's another connector. Press the tab and disconnect and the intake tube comes up and out.
To remove the fan, you want to have fan removal tools. This is designed to go onto the bolts that hold the fan pulley on. It holds, once you get it on there correctly, it can hold the pulley bolts with that. Then a 36 millimeter wrench goes onto the bolt. Then you can use a ratchet for some more leverage. Once you break it free then your fan will spin right off. Then just get around the radiator hose. Up and out.
Pair of pliers and loosen the radiator hose clamp, pull it back and you'll let it go, and twist the hose to break it free and remove it. Now there's an 8mm bolt here and one pretty much in the same location on the other side. Remove those and we can lift our fan and shroud up and out.8mm socket with a ratchet and extension, and remove. Okay, with those bolts out and the fan off, you can pull your shroud up and out.
Ours is broken 'cause this vehicle has a lift kit on it that they had to break in order to put it on. Just going to use some rust penetrating fluid and spray the transmission line fittings that go into the radiator. And we're going to remove these two fittings, and either 16mm or a 5/8" tubing wrench is the best, it appears that 5/8" just fits a little better. Put the tubing wrench on. Okay, and once you get it to go, you want to make sure that you break it free and then remove the hose from the coolant reservoir. You can use pliers to squeeze the clamp and just like the larger hose, twist it and pull it off.
Okay, it looks like about a 1 1/16" bolt. I don't happen to have that wrench around, so I'm going to use a large pair of pliers. Hold that fitting and loosen the nut. And the same thing down lower. Once you have the transmission lines loose, make sure you have a drain pan underneath ready to catch any fluid that comes out.
You finish out, just pull the line out and again have a pan underneath to catch any fluid that may drip. Use some pliers to remove the hose to the coolant bottle just to get it out of the way. Squeeze, and squeeze the clamp. Slide it down and off, and then use the pliers again. Get on the clamp that's on the big hose at the bottom of the radiator. Squeeze that. You probably want a pan underneath that, 'cause you're gonna get some fluid that comes out. Two 10mm bolts hold the brackets atop, remove those.
Then the radiator is in a set of pads at the bottom. Tilt it towards the passenger side to keep the water from flowing out the outlet on the bottom. Okay, back here I have my original radiator from the vehicle. Quality new radiator from 1AAuto.com, you can see everything's the same. You've got all the fittings. All the mounting points of the same. You'll need to remove a lot of these shipping protectors, but this is a great replacement. It's going to go into the vehicle, fit like the original and function like the original.
Radiators can get rocks through them, damage in an accident. Also as the vehicle ages, they are made of aluminum, so they tend to corrode at the bottom and you might get a leak. Also the tanks are plastic, and sometimes they'll get cracked or damaged somehow. All the reasons you might need to have a new quality radiator from 1AAuto.com.
Make sure the mounts are clear. One on the passenger side and obviously, the one right over on the driver's side. I always like it when things go together nice, so I just have a little bit of oil on my finger. Just put it in the mount to make sure the radiator goes down in there easily. The new radiator from 1AAuto. This is a 4.6L V8, so we're going with the dual core, and it goes down into place. I'm only worrying about one side right now, got to make sure my lines are out of the way over here. We'll put it in place. One side went down, and the other side's down in. Put the top mount in. Down on and back into place.
Same thing for the other side. On and down. Go tighten those up. Make sure this fitting is up and then there's a tab here that you pull, so this plastic can shrink and reduce. Take a little bit of oil and just coat the inside of the hose. We've already moved our clamp back. Put the hose on. Make sure it goes all the way over the white clamp. Now use your pliers.
Squeeze the clamp and move it all the way up to the end of the hose. Remove your shipping protectors. Insert the transmission lines. Tighten them up. Make sure that these are going in straight and they start easily by hand. Tighten them up. Put your 5/8" tubing wrench and get them firm. Then about another 1/4 of a turn tight. With these, basically refill everything. Make sure your transmission fluid is correct, and then double-check them afterwards, if you get any transmission fluid leaking from them, hold the fitting nut and tighten them up more. Gonna put the one on the bottom of our coolant reservoir. Squeeze with the pliers. Put it into place. Remove the shipping protector.
Put your radiator overflow bottle hose back in place. Pliers. Squeeze the clamp. We had the hose out of the way, so we'll just move it back over. We'll put that back on after we put the shroud in.
Probably the easiest way to get these together is actually to do the fan and shroud itself. My shroud's badly damaged. You basically just feed the shroud and fan down in together. Once it gets to a certain point, grab the fan, then just keep feeding the shroud down in. This will work for most vehicles. Doesn't work very well for mine, because the shroud has been broken, because somebody put a lift kit on the vehicle. There we go. Keep it everything in the right place. Then get the fan on a couple threads. Shrouding, and look down, make sure it goes into the little clips. Little clip here and the other side, then put your bolts in on this side. These are eight millimeters so we'll tighten them up. Tighten your fan up.
All right, now take your special fan tool and make sure you put it in. It's holding the correct way. This should be tightened up 40 to foot-pounds. There's no real good way to torque it, so I'm just going to take my wrench and get it tight and we'll call that 40.
Put your radiator hose back on. Squeeze the clamp back in to place and release it.
Put your air intake in place. Back in place over here. The tab winds up there and this clamp goes on. Just reach down and make sure nothing's getting pinched. Lock that down into place and your mass air flow connection, reconnect it. Reconnect this connector. Tube down here goes in there. Flat blade screwdriver to tighten up the clamp that holds it onto the throttle body. Throttle body cover back in place. And kind of move it around a little bit, figure out where the bolt hole is. I'm actually cheating, just looking right through here. See there, start it up and then push this side down into place and start my two bolts over here and then tighten them up.
Put the cover back on. It's in place, you can see all the holes. These back clips, just make sure the center's popped up. Push them down in, push the center in and then these ones across the front, clip in first and just push the center right in to lock it.
Put your jack handle back in. Refill your coolant with a Ford-specified coolant, and the total capacity of your system is just over 19 quarts, which is almost five gallons. But, depending on the repair you did, you'll have to put an appropriate amount in. But, you basically just put it in through here and then once you fill it, you'll want to run the vehicle through a couple cycles and just check and make sure that the coolant is filled to the full hot line on here. And, again, first few times you drive it, check the coolant because it'll be working air out of its system. Keep refilling at the coolant reservoir.
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