Replaces
Frequently bought together
Part Details
About TRQ:
TRQ is a trusted brand dedicated to making every repair a success story by combining premium parts with easy installation. Each TRQ part is engineered by a team of automotive experts to meet or exceed OEM standards, delivering enhanced performance and maximum longevity. With rigorous in-house testing, the brand ensures superior fit and function across every product line. TRQ also provides customers with best-in-class, step-by-step installation videos—so you can complete repairs with confidence, whether you're a first-time DIYer or an industry professional.
Product Features
TRQ brake pads are manufactured using premium raw materials and design standards to restore original performance. TRQ brake pads are positive molded and utilize a multi-layer shim for enhanced performance and service life. TRQ’s combination of materials and design ensures a low dust and low noise braking experience. TRQ recommends replacing your brake rotors when you replace your brake pads to ensure even wear of components and improved braking comfort. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet.
Hi, I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners of 1A Auto. I want to help you save time and money repairing or maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20-plus years' experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this to show you the correct way to install parts from 1AAuto.com. The right parts installed correctly. That's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.
In this video we'll show you how to service the front disc brakes on this 1994 Camry, pretty much the same as any 1992 to 1996 Camry. The tools you'll need are a large flat-blade screwdriver, a 21 mm socket and ratchet or your lug wrench, 14 and 17 mm sockets with ratchet, a torque wrench, a large C-clamp and a jack and jack stands.
First we'll remove the hubcap. Use a large screwdriver or a pry bar. Remove the lug nuts from your wheel. I've got a 21 mm socket and I have an air wrench. You can obviously leave your car on the ground, use your lug wrench or a 21 mm socket and wrench to get them off.
As you can see I've turned the wheels, and to remove the caliper which you need to do to remove the pads you've got two 14 mm bolts, one here and then one up here. You can remove the caliper and the pads and then if you want to replace the rotor, which actually this car the rotors look really good. If you did want to replace the rotors you've got bolts that need a 17 mm bolt here and then one down lower right there.
Remove these 14 mm bolts just using a regular wrench. You can see that it's not hard to do. It's just going to take some pressure but not a ton. The other bolt is removed. Use your screwdriver and pull the caliper right off. Support it up here. Here are my pads. I'm just using my screwdriver to pry them out. You can see that they're pretty well worn, but as I said my disc is nice. What you want to do is just kind of take the back of your fingernail and run it back and forth across there. If it's nice and smooth then you're okay. If it has any deep grooves or gouges in it you'll want to replace them.
If your discs are in bad shape and you want to replace them, it is 17 mm bolts down in here. These ones are going to be quite a bit more torque to get them loose. I always like to hang up and hang down. That's usually the best way to get torque on them, or stand on the wrench. That comes off and once that bracket is off the disc for the rotor generally just comes right off. Just to show you, if you do order new discs from 1A Auto, they are going to go on there just like the originals and work for you. Like I said, these are in good shape, and I'm not a person to waste good discs. I'll put those back on.
One thing you'll want to do is take these little pins out. These look nice. They are well lubricated. They slide well. You can either take them out or just make sure that they slide back and forth with no drag. Tighten these up to the foot panels. Here are the old pads, new pads from 1A Auto. You can see they've got quite a bit more meat on them and they even have the plates and everything. They actually just kind of go down into the little. Just squeeze them together. Next, you're going to want to use a C-clamp and you're going to want to force the piston back into the caliper here. You can see the piston right in there. I'm just going to keep this C-clamp right on there and it goes back in pretty easy without a whole lot of pressure. You probably can loosen up your cap on your brake fluid reservoir and make sure it's not overfull because it will leak out if there is too much in there.
Before you install your caliper you'll want to put this little spring back in. Just kind of keeps them apart so they don't squeeze on the rotor. What we did with that C-clamp is we pushed this piston back in. Now this will go down on there very nice. Now the two 14 mm bolts. These 14 mm bolts you'll need to tighten up to about 25-foot pounds. I've got a wrench holding the stud that they're going into. Okay, and 25-foot pounds is not a lot, but it is the right amount. Let's see here. These don't really do any of the braking. The braking energy is absorbed by that big bracket. These just kind of hold that caliper in place and let it float. Now we'll do the other side and then put the wheel back on and when you put the wheel back on you want to torque the lug nuts to 100-foot pounds and then before you drive your car anywhere you want to get in, start it up and pump the brakes a few times to make sure that piston gets back out and the brakes are working. They'll take a few pumps to the brakes to make sure that everything is back where it should be. Then before you drive your care just put it in gear, make sure the brakes hold then do a stop from 5 miles an hour before you go out and test it on the road.
Here we've put the wheel on. I am just preliminarily tightening up the lug nuts with an air gun, and now I'm tightening them to 100-foot pounds using a star pattern with the torque wrench. Install the center cover; line up the indent on your valve stem there.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the internet and in person. Thank you.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to do a front brake job on this Chrysler Pacifica. We show you the front right hand, or front passenger side. Obviously, the driver's side is the same process, and we always do recommend that you change them in pairs. The tools you'll need for this job are jack and jack stands, 14 to 21 mm sockets, ratchets and extension, large flat blade screwdriver or small pry bar, large C-clamp, small wire brush, and a torque wrench.
Start by removing the cover. Next remove the lug nuts. You'll probably want to start with the wheel on the ground, loosen the lug nuts first, then raise and support the vehicle, and then remove them. Fast forward, here, as I just remove the rest of the lug nuts and then remove the wheel and tire.
Now, you can inspect the brakes and even though these brakes look a little rusty, that's not a big deal. It looks like this car has just been sitting for a while. You want to take the back of your fingernail, run it up and down the rotor. You'll feel some small groves, but you shouldn't feel anything deep. Then, also, you can look right in here and spin the rotor. You can see, here's the brake pad in between the metal here. It's nice and thick on the inside, as well as, you can see it's nice and thick here. This actually has good brakes on it but I'll take them apart and put it back together just to show you.
Turn your brakes. Here, on the back side, you'll want to remove these two bolts first. Before you remove those bolts you can take a large screwdriver or a small pry bar and put it here and just press this way, pry this way. That just helps push the pistons back into the caliper some and it makes it easier to get the caliper off. These bolts are 14mm, so they should not be too hard to remove. Speed up here as I remove those the rest of the way. Once you have those off, you can get the pads to just pry right up easily. Like I said, you can see these lines in the middle are wear marks. You can see these have quite a bit of life left.
If you want to replace the caliper you want to remove these two large bolts here. These two bolts are 21mm. I'm going to put my ratchet on there and use a piece of pipe for some extra leverage, slow and easy. These are actually coming apart pretty easily, maybe a little too easily. Fast forward here as I remove those bolts. Those bolts, as you'll see later, are tightened to 110 foot pounds. I have a feeling that whoever put this together before didn't tighten them up as much as they should have.
Before you put this back together, sometimes new pads will come with these slides that you'd actually just pull them right off with just a little bit of force. If your new pads don't come with the slides then you'll want to take a wire brush and just clean them up a little bit. Put the rotor back on. Put this back in place. Start the bolt from the back side. Just move this around until you get the bolt going in. I like to take just one lug nut and put it on. It just helps keep stuff in place. I'll speed up here, as I just tighten those bolts preliminarily. Torque these two bolts to 110 foot-pounds. Now, you want to make sure these two slides go back and forth nice and easy. If they don't move freely, then you can pull them out, clean them up, and grease them and put them back together to get them to move free.
Now you want to reset your caliper. What happens is, as the brakes wear, these two pistons actually work themselves out of the caliper. What you'll want to do is take your old inside pad and put it in place. Get a large C-clamp and put it on, and as you tighten the C-clamp it pushes those pistons back into the caliper. They just go right into place. To put the pads in place, the caliper just goes right down on them. You push these slides in a little bit and calipers slide on. Then put the two bolts in. These bolts should be tightened between 22 and 25 foot-pounds.
Fast forward here as I straighten it up, take off that lug nut, then put my wheel and tire back in place. Thread all the lug nuts back on hand, make sure don't cross thread them, and then tighten the lug nuts preliminarily. Now, torque your lug nuts using a star pattern to 100 foot-pounds. And last, but certainly not least, make sure after you do your brake work, obviously, we showed you the left hand side, then do the left hand side, then pump your brakes up. Get a nice hard pedal before you road test the vehicle.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
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