Replaces
Frequently bought together
Part Details
About TRQ:
TRQ is a trusted brand dedicated to making every repair a success story by combining premium parts with easy installation. Each TRQ part is engineered by a team of automotive experts to meet or exceed OEM standards, delivering enhanced performance and maximum longevity. With rigorous in-house testing, the brand ensures superior fit and function across every product line. TRQ also provides customers with best-in-class, step-by-step installation videos—so you can complete repairs with confidence, whether you're a first-time DIYer or an industry professional.
Product Features
TRQ fully loaded shocks and struts are manufactured using premium raw materials and calibrated to restore original ride comfort. TRQ shocks are fully loaded featuring a pre-loaded bearing plate, upper and lower spring isolator, upper spring seat, coil spring, boot kit, and premium strut. TRQ recommends replacing your shocks or struts in pairs to ensure even wear of components and improved ride comfort. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Replacing struts used to require specialized tools to compress, remove, and transfer the old spring and mount. Our Pre-assembled, complete strut & spring assemblies come with all new parts and make the job much quicker and easier for the do-it-yourself mechanic.
Strut & spring assembly contains:
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Chromium (Hexavalent Compounds), which is known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
FREE Shipping is standard on orders shipped to the lower 48 States (Contiguous United States). Standard shipping charges apply to Hawaii and Alaska.
Shipping is not available to a P.O. Box, APO/FPO/DPO addresses, US Territories, or Canada for this item.
Expedited is available on checkout to the United States, excluding Alaska, Hawaii.
Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
Created on:
Tools used
Hi, I’m Mike from 1A Auto. We’ve been selling auto parts for over 30 years!
Before we jack up the car, we're parked on level ground. We're going to set the parking brake, because we're jacking up the front of the car. We're going to leave the rear wheels on the ground. Loosen the lug nuts on the vehicle on the ground. We're going to use a breaker bar and a 19 millimeter socket. You've got a socket like this. It potentially might not fit inside of the lug openings. This particular car has very small lug openings. So, I'm just going to use a basic chrome 19 millimeter socket. That fits great. And I'll use the breaker bar to break these free. Go around and get them all loose.
Roll our jack underneath. Find the jacking point just behind the oil pan. Make sure you don't jack directly under the oil pan. Get the jack set up here. Make sure you're doing this on level, flat ground. It's lined up. Bring the car up. Get the wheels off the ground. All right. We'll set our jack stands up right here, right between these two notches and the pinch weld. Put our lock pin back in. Set the jack up the same way on the other side. Put our lock in and slowly lower the floor jack. Just going to leave the floor jack in place. Just take some of the weight off of it, but the majority of the vehicles weight is on the jack stands. Going to use the socket to finish taking off the wheel. I've already loosened the lug nuts. They should come off by hand. Take our wheel off, and put it aside.
I like to put the wheel underneath the car here. That way, if a jack stand gets knocked out, the car will land on the wheel. Pull the hood release. It's just under here, under the dash. Lift up on the hood. Find the safety release. Push it to the passenger side. Lift the hood up. Prop rods here. Put it in place.
Before you change the strut, just be aware, you'll want to have the car aligned afterwards, because the upper strut bolt does have a cam too it. And the camber adjustment can be adjusted at an alignment shop. So, in the meantime, I'm going to use this blue paint marker. You can use a paint marker, and color that you have. I'm just going to give a rough mark where the strut was on the knuckle. That way, when I install the new one, I can get it close and remove the bolt, holding on the ABS wire to the strut. I'm going to use some rust penetrant on the back side of the bolt. I'm going to use a 12 millimeter socket to ratchet and short extension, break it free. ... Once it's loose enough, I'll pull it out with my fingers. We'll put that aside and I'll put the bolt in here, just for now, so I don't lose it.
Going to remove the bolt, holding on the brake hose. And spray some rust penetrant. Get the back side of the bolts. Use the 12 millimeter socket, a ratchet, short extension, and break it free. Thread it out with my fingers. Pull the hose out, just like that. Put it aside. And I can move it just out of here. And thread this bolt back in here, so I don't lose it. I'm going to loosen the strut bolts.
I'm going to spray some rust penetrant on the nut side, with the exposed threads. Try to use this ratchet and a 19 millimeter deep socket. This ratchet might not be long enough. So, it is turning the bolts. It's not turning off the nuts. So, I'm going to use a 19 millimeter wrench to counterhold the bolt, while I loosen the nut. If you don't have enough leverage with a short ratchet like this, you can switch to your longer breaker bar to get it free. Just be careful you don't hit the fender.
With this one, I'm able to use the smaller wrench. Loosen that one up. Do the same for the lower one. So, the lower one, stuck on there, pretty good. I'm going to use the breaker. Get this broken free. Now, I can switch to the smaller ratchet. If you bend the metal, it's not a big deal, you can just bend it back—they're thin sheet metal. I'm going to take this bolt all the way out. That one's going to be the lower one. That's just a normal strut bolt. See if I can take this one off. It's not quite loose enough to come off with my fingers yet.
There's a washer on this upper one. Make sure you get that. Push this bolt out. You might have to push in on the knuckle a little bit. You can turn it with the ratchet. Pull it out. I'm going to put the washer and the nut on here, so I don't lose them. And you can see the top bolt has a cam to it. And that adjusts the camber as you turn it. It's also called an eccentric bolt. So, don't mix these up. This one will go on the top. The regular one goes on the bottom.
Loosen the nuts on the top of the strut. There's three of them. Spray some rust penetrant on here. Use a 12 millimeter deep socket, just have an extension, so I'm not hitting the fender of the car. I'll get these all loose. Be aware as you loosen them up. The struts going to start to drop out of the strut tower. It's not attached to the knuckle anymore. Strut is now in the car with only this nut. So, what I'm going to do, is reach underneath with one arm, and I'll hold up onto these struts, so it doesn't fall. And I'll loosen this nut. Put this down. Take this nut off. Lower the strut down off the knuckle. And guide the strut out.
Here's the original strut and spring assembly you pulled from the vehicle. This is the brand new one from 1AAuto.com. Spring is already assembled on it. It has a brand new top hat. No need to use a spring compressor to take this spring off. This is all set and ready to go in the car. They are marked. This one is for the front right, so front passenger side. The driver side would be marked FL.
There's a little warning label here. You can take this off. Basically it tells you, you do not need to loosen the nut that's under here. It's already set. Leave it alone. But, you can take that warning sticker off. Then this little sticker is just telling you that with the new springs the vehicle may appear to sit a little bit higher, and eventually will settle, with the vehicles weight. Will take that off.
The only thing I'm going to switch over. I'll take out these old bolts, so I can re-use them. That one's for the brake hose. And there was one in here for the ABS wire. I'll take it out. Comes with new mounting nuts on the top. I'll take them off. This is ready to go up inside the car. There's no direction to this. It can be mounted any way, as long as the bolts line up. As long as, the studs line up. All right. Put our strut up into the car. Be careful of our ABS wire and our brake hose.
I'm going to go up into the strut tower. Get them lined up. Get one of these new nuts caught. And I'll get another one caught. They're locking, so I'm just going to thread them on till they stop. I'm going to let that hang. Get our knuckle back into position. Line up with the strut. Going to start with the lower one. That's the one that doesn't have the eccentric part. Put it in from the back. Might have to move the knuckle and strut around. Maybe move it up or down, wiggle it around, push it in place.
Now, I'll just capture the nut, so it doesn't fall out. I'll do the same for the top one. Put the washer on. Put the nut on. The replacement nuts are 13 millimeter, so, I'm going to use a 13 millimeter deep socket and just tighten these up evenly. Bring this one up a little bit. Tighten the next one. Once I feel these get tight, I'll just stop. They do have a locking part of them, make sure all three of them are tight. Let's snug this top nut up, using the closed end of the wrench. I don't want to go super tight, because I can turn the whole bolts and make a camber adjustment. I'm going to bring the outer edge up to meet that blue line. Turn it this way. But, when you turn this, you can see it pushes the hub out. And as you turn it around, it pulls it in. So, I'm just going to pull it in, so it's close as it was.
I may not have been perfectly exact with that paint line, but we'll make it as parallel as possible. And, of course you can have your alignment checked afterwards. So, right about there is good. And we'll tighten this down. Tighten this one down. Not going to over-tighten them, because I want to torque them. I'm going to counterhold the bolts, closed part of my wrench, then torque the nut to 112 foot-pounds. Once it clicks, you're all set. Do the same for both. I'm going to reinstall the ABS line. Take out that bolt. Line up the line here. I'll just thread it in as far as it will go by hand. Use that 12 millimeter socket and ratchet. Thread it in. Feel it get tight. I'll stop.
Reinstall the brake hose. Just take it out of the way for a second. Get the bolt out of there. Put the brake hose back up in place. Line it up. Re-install those bolts. Get it started by hand. And then tighten it up with the 12 millimeter socket. Just tighten it up. And once I feel it get tight, go a little bit more, then I'll stop. This side complete. The opposite side will be the same exact procedure.
Reinstall the wheel. Start the lug nuts by hand. This one went down pretty far. Then get an opposite one caught. Use the socket and thread them in. We'll jack up the car, take it off the jack stands. Push the locks out. Do the same for the other side, as well. Lower the vehicle to the ground. Un-torque the lug nuts to 89 foot-pounds in a cross pattern. That's a click.
Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.
Tools used
Hi, I’m Mike from 1A Auto. We’ve been selling auto parts for over 30 years!
In this video, we are replacing front struts in a 2008 Subaru Outback. If you need this part or other parts for your car, click the link in the description and head over to 1AAuto.com.
We're going to pull this left front tire off. I'm going to a use a 19mm socket and a breaker bar. Just crack them free while it's still on the ground. You're going to want to raise and support the front of the vehicle. We're using a lift, but you can do this with jack and jack stands in our driveway. I'm going to loosen up the rest of the lugs. Once I get all the lugs off, pull the tire off. Before we crack any of these bolts or nuts free, I'm going to spray some rust penetrant on here, and then on the threads of these bolts, and then on this bolt. That will give it a chance to soak in a little bit.
We're going to take of this ABS sensor wire. We're going to use a 12 millimeter socket with an extension and ratchet. Break that free. It's loose enough to do it by hand. Pull this out of the way. We're going to put our bolt back in, and do the same over here. This is for our brake line. Get that out, and put our bolt back in there, so we know where it goes. All right, before I pull these nuts and bolts off of this bracket, you're going to want to remember that when you're doing this job it's going to require and alignment afterwards. This bolt on the top does have a cam in it, so it will need to be realigned afterwards. We are going to mark this housing here, so that we can get it close. I'm going to mark the top part of the bolt here, so we know that's where it was when we took it off, and then it will at least be close, but you're still going to want to have an alignment done.
We're going to use a 19 millimeter socket with a ratchet, and have to put a wrench on this side. Then we'll loosen up the nut. That is loose enough to do it by hand. There's a little washer here. Pull this out. As you can see, the bolt has a cam. This is the top bolt. The bottom will not have this. And we're going to take off the bottom nut and bolt. It's a 19mm wrench and a 19mm socket and ratchet. We should be able to do it by hand. This one does not have a washer.
Okay, I'm going to lift up on this slightly, and then the bolts will come out. We can slide this out. As you can see, the bottom bolt does not have this extra cam on it, so that's why we marked it. And that one goes in the top, it goes in the bottom. We're going to pop the hood. The latch is right here. Pull that. The safety is right here. Push it to the side, and the prop rod is right here. It's going to go right in that slot. We're going to use some rust penetrant on these nuts. Let that soak in for a minute.
We're going to use a 12 millimeter socket, and extension, and a ratchet, and take these nuts out. So, we're getting to the last bolt. We're not going to want to take it all the way out. Once we get down a little bit more, you're going to want to support the strut from down below. Grab it with your hand. So pull that out, and then come underneath, while you're holding it, and pull it down. And you're going to tip it out this way and pull it out.
This is our old spring and strut assembly; this is our new spring and strut assembly from 1aauto.com. As you can see, they are identical. They all have the same brackets down here, the same spring set up, and the same upper strut mounts. It comes with new nuts, as you can see. On here there's a warning, telling you to not touch this nut underneath here, because it would be a safety hazard.
Replacing your struts and springs like this is safer than if you were just going to replace the strut alone, and you don't have to deal with compressing it or anything, put the whole thing in. Down here, we'll take our bolts out and transfer them over to the new one. It's the same, same with this one. There, we're good, and get your part at 1aauto.com, and you'll be ready to rock and roll.
So, we're going to pull our nuts off the top first, before we slip it in. We're going to guide this in this way, in between the ABS wire and the brake line. We're going to feed it up top. Once we got it in up top, while you're holding it you put one of the nuts on. You can put the other nuts on. These nuts are a different size, these are actually a 13mm, so we're going to tighten it up with a 13mm extension and a ratchet. Tighten these all up, evenly. We're going to align our knuckle up. We'll grab the bolt. We're going to start with the bolt that doesn't have a cam on it. Stick it in the bottom. You're going to have to wiggle it a little bit. There we go.
Take our nut and start threading the nut on. And so we'll take our cam bolt and slide that in. Remember, we wanted the paint mark at the top, because as you can see it lines up pretty good, right there on the knuckle. Take the washer. Put the washer on and the nut.
Next, we're going to torque these nuts down. They're going to get torqued to a 112 foot-pounds. There we go. Good. One more reminder, remember just because we painted this doesn't mean your alignment is going to be exactly where it should be. You're going to want to go to a shop and at least have the alignment checked, if not have them perform an alignment. It's a good idea so that you don't wear your tires out prematurely.
Next, we're going to install this front ABS wire. Remember, we pulled the bolt out. Get that in, and then tighten it up with a 12 millimeter socket and ratchet. Snug that up. Get that same 12 millimeter bolt out of the brake hose. Use your 12 millimeter socket and ratchet. Snug that up. All right, now I'm installing the lug nuts. You're going to snug them right down, and we'll torque it when we put it down on the ground. We're going to torque the lug nuts in a star pattern. We're torqueing them to 90 foot-pounds. The reason why you want to do a star pattern, it is going to get the wheel flush against the rotor properly, and it won't be warped. It'll prevent vibration.
Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.
SCA57156
