Replaces
Part Details
TRQ suspension kits are manufactured using premium raw materials and coatings for extended service life. Each TRQ suspension component is designed to be a direct, maintenance-free replacement to the stock unit. To extend the life of your steering and suspension components, TRQ recommends replacing components in pairs, sets, or kits. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Install Tip: When replacing steering components, have a professional alignment performed afterwards. This ensures proper tracking and even tire wear.
Our steering and suspension components are pre-greased and sealed for long life and do not require the extra maintenance typically required by greaseable versions.
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace a lower forward control arm in this Audi A4 this is a 2007. We do this on the driver's side but the passenger's side is pretty much the same procedure.
You'll need a new control arm from 1Aauto.com, Philips and flat blade screwdrivers, 90 degree pick or center cap removal tool, 13 to 18 mm sockets with a ratchet and extensions and wrenches of the same size, penetrating oil, a hammer, pickle fork, torque wrench, jack and jack stands, and the ball joint separator. We had some trouble with a few things seizing up. Being a car from New England it's to be expected so we used a couple more tools, some different types of pullers, cutting tools, and a hydraulic press. Hopefully your install goes smooth and you won't have to take the extra steps that we did but we do show them for you just in case.
Remove the quarter turn flat blade fasteners at the bottom of the bumper, normally there are three here, and there's several underneath. A lot of these bumpers are missing these fasteners. They become cracked, damaged, lost, and what have you, so just find all the ones you can. There’s a few more at the back. A couple of Philips – occasionally these are torx – are at the front of the wheel wells. Remove the screws inside the wheel well to allow you to remove the belly pin from the bottom of the car.
Using a 90 degree hooked pick, remove the center cap from your wheel. We also have the actual Audi tool for moving the center cap available on 1Aauto.com. Crack your lug nuts lose with a 17 mm socket and a breaker bar. With the vehicle raised and supported remove your lug bolts the rest of the way and take the wheel off.
Just to give you a heads up before you get started, we've been soaking the sub frame bolts for the rear of the lower control arms in penetrating oil for three or four days now, these bolts are very, very prone to being stuck, rusted, and frozen into the bushings, so we recommend if you can if your control arms have a little bit of time that you begin to soak these let it get in there for a few days, soak them in there every night or before you go to work and let them work in their over a couple days. It'll really make this process easier for you when the time comes to change them.
Using the 16 mm socket and ratchet remove the top bolt for the sway bar link. Using an 18 mm socket and breaker bar with a wrench to support the nut on the back, remove the bolt on the bottom of the strut. Using an 18 mm wrench and the socket and breaker bar, we're going to loosen the bolt on the back of the forward lower control arm. We’re not going to take it all the way out just yet, but taking the tension off the bushing is going to make removing the joint at the front a lot easier. Remove the 18 mm nut securing the forward lower control arm into the bottom of the spindle with an 18 mm socket and a breaker bar.
We're going to use a ball joint separator to remove the lower control arm from the spindle, if you don't have one they're usually available for rent at your local auto parts or hardware store. The top hammers into the joint just like a pickle fork. You'll set this arm onto the bottom of the stud so as we tighten this bolt on the top it pushes up on the stud while securing the back to pop the joint out of the spindle. Bring the bolt down until the joint separates.
We ran into some trouble here, our ball joint separator has failed us. If this happens to you or you don't have access to a ball joint separator we're going to show you a few extra steps you can do to still get the project done. So if you have a good ball joint separator and you manage to pop this out on this step we just showed you, you can skip the next couple of steps, just go right to removing this bolt and then reassembly.
Remove the 18 mm nut at the top of the rearward lower control arm ball joint, we are removing this control arm from the spindle to gain better access to the ball joint on the forward lower control arm. Using an 18 mm breaker bar and socket, on the bolt end an 18 mm box end wrench, on the nut break the bolt loose. Using a pickle fork keeping it up tight to the spindle remove the lower control arm. The tricky part about these control arms is they have a metal sleeve pressed into an aluminum spindle that both control arms actually seat into, it's very easy to make these pop out of the spindle and very difficult to remove them from the control arms and get them back in after that's happened.
The best way to remove the ball joint from the spindle on the forward lower control arm is with a high quality ball joint separator. Our separator failed when we attempted to remove the joint, we attempted it with a two jaw puller which pressed the sleeve partway out of the spindle at which point we fabricated a plate in an attempt to retain the sleeve into the spindle with the two jaw puller while pushing the ball joint out of the sleeve. We modified this several times, tried a different two jaw puller, and were still unsuccessful, at which point we drove the sleeve and ball joint out of the spindle and cut the ball joint with a combination of a cutting wheel, sawzall, and air chisel, to allow the control arm to be removed from the spindle, as well as giving us the clearance to remove the sleeve and bolt which we then separated on a press.
Now that we've removed the sleeve and the control arm from the spindle, we’re going to use an 18 mm socket and ratchet as well as a wrench to counter hold the nut to remove the sub frame bolt in the back of the forward lower control arm. There's a hole in the sway bar bracket here that you can send the bolt back into to remove and install and move your control arm.
Place the sleeve back over the hole in the spindle using a pair of slide jaw water pump type pliers. Go ahead and work it back into the spindle. We've removed and reused the axle bolt in our vehicle as a part of showing you the different ways in which this sleeve can be reinstalled. We do not recommend you remove the axle bolt unless absolutely necessary as it is torqued to yield and will have to be replaced with a new part if removed from the vehicle. The best method is with a ball joint press if you have access to one. Heating up the bottom of the spindle may help the sleeve slide in easier. When we know that our sleeve is going to sit back into our spindle we'll add some lock tight to the edges to help ensure it stays in place if we ever have to remove a control arm or spindle again.
Reinstall the lower control arm into the sub frame. Send your bolt through, start the nut but don't tighten it until the full weight of the vehicle is on the suspension. Install the lower control arm into the bottom of the spindle, start the nut on the bottom the ball joint to the lower control arm.
Notice we've placed the strut off to the side of the lower control arm so we can bolt it down into the spindle, give us more clearance to slide the strut back on afterwards. Using an 18 mm socket tighten down the nut on the bottom then torque to 81 foot-pounds.
Using a pry bar, pry up on the strut and allow it back over the control arm. To give us a little more clearance to install our CV axle we're going to cut the wheel all the way to the right. With the wheel turned all the way to the right, compress your CV axle, line up the splines, and reinstall it into the hub. Start the axle bolt on the other side, just a few threads to make sure that it doesn't fall out of alignment while we install the rest of our suspension.
Reinstall the bolt for the strut and the nut. Again, this will be left hand tight until we have the vehicle weight on the suspension.
Reinstall the rearward lower control arm into the spindle, install the nut. If you can get a torque wrench in there, torque it to 81 foot-pounds.
Reinstall the bolt for your sway bar link. While the nut on the back of the sway bar link can't be turned, it can be used as leverage for the 13 mm wrench to help line up your bolts.
Using the screw jack if you're on a lift or a floor jack if you're working with a jack and jack stands, load up the bottom of the spindle until the suspension is in the normal right height position. When the screw jack or floor jack begins to lift the vehicle by the suspension you've reached the highest point, the lowest point is with the suspension hanging. Your normal ride height will be in the middle of those two.
Tighten the rear control arm with an 18 mm socket and ratchet wrench, torque the bolt to 52 foot pounds. Tighten down the front lower control arm sub frame bolt with an 18 mm socket and ratchet and torque to 55 foot-pounds.
Tighten the strut bolt with an 18 mm socket ratchet and wrench. Torque to 66 foot pounds. Finish tightening the sway bar link bolt with a 16 mm socket and ratchet. Torque the sway bar link bolt to 52 foot pounds. Remove the weight of the vehicle from the suspension.
Reinstall the wheel onto the hub. It helps if you send a lug bolt through and hold it with a 17 mm socket on the other side. Start the first bolt by hand to help keep the wheel in place. Torque the lug bolts to 90 foot-pounds in a cross pattern. Using a 17 mm Allen socket and a torque wrench torque the axle bolt to 148 foot-pounds. This is a torque to yield bolt so be sure to always use a new one. Once it's torqued we'll add an additional 180 degree turn.
The slots on the back of the lug cap are staggered be sure to align them before installing.
Reinstall your lower engine cover. Reinstall whatever fasteners you had to remove for the belly pan. In our case they're mostly quarter turn flat blades. Yours may be secured with something different.
Thanks for tuning in. We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you upper control arm replacement on this 2007 Audio A4. Pretty much the same for 2000 to 2008. You'll need a center cap removal tool or 90 degree pick, 16 to 18 millimeter sockets with ratchets and extensions, 16 to 18 millimeter wrenches, penetrating oil, chisel, hammer, ball joint or tire rod fork, Phillip's screwdriver, torque wrench, large pliers and jack and jack stand.
To remove the wheel, you'll have to remove this lug cover. You can use the tool supplied with your spare tire kit. Often these are missing and are available on 1AAuto.com or you can use a hooked pick.
Remove the five 17 millimeter wheel bolts. I'm going to use the screw jack to push up on the suspension and simulate the weight of the vehicle on the tires. You can do the same thing with a floor jack at home. Bring it up until the suspension stops compressing. Hook a measuring tape to the top of your strut mount. Mark where you put the front of the tape on the strut mount and where it lines up at the bottom.
Our measurement here is 3 1/2 inches. Since the arms can't be torqued inside of the vehicle we will use a recreation of this measurement to set the angle of the control arm with the weight on before you torque on the bench. This arm will be aligned with our tape at both marks to 3 1/2 inches. We'll make our other arm parallel before torqueing on the bench.
Lower your screw jack or floor jack to release the weight from the suspension. Remove the pinch bolt at the top of the spindle. Often these are frozen in and will require heat power tools and just generally a lot of working back and forth to remove, but we're going to try starting ours by hand. You'll need a 16 millimeter wrench and a 16 millimeter socket and ratchet. Often even once the nut's been removed these pinch bolts tend to get stuck in the spindle. The best thing you can do for this is spray penetrating oil just about anywhere you can get at the bolt.
If you have to get a little outward pressure while you try to turn the bolt out of the spindle, you can use part of a chisel behind the washer just to put some outward pressure on it while you try to turn it out. We're going to be using a very thin wrench to get behind the washer, pry out on the bolt while we turn. When all else fails, you may just have to use power tools.
As the gap behind the washer gets bigger, you can up-size wrenches or even double them up to fill the gap. The best way to remove the upper control arms from the spindle is with a ball joint or a tire rod fork. Simply slide it under the joint, send it in with a hammer until it separates from the spindle. Remove the Phillips head screw on the top of the coolant expansion tank. Slide the tank out of its retainers. Just lay it off to the side. Be careful not to spill.
Remove the 16 millimeter bolt below the expansion tank. Our vehicle is missing the rain tray. If yours isn't, you'll have to remove it to access this rubber plug just before the fuse box. Remove the 16 millimeter bolt underneath. Remove the last 16 millimeter bolt between the break booster just by the fuse panel.
Using an 18 millimeter socket and ratchet and an 18 millimeter wrench, remove the bolt from the bottom of the strut through the lower control arm. Remove the bottom of the strut from the lower control arm and pry out to release the clip. With the strut assembly removed remove the 16 millimeter bolts holding in the upper control arms.
Reinstall your upper control arms. Remember to transfer the mark you used to measure the angle of the control arms from your old part to your new part so we can set the angle and torque the control arms appropriately. Torque the upper control arm bolts to 37 foot-pounds and then add 90 degrees.
Reinstall the other control arm the same way. Remove the protective caps on the new boots and you're ready to reinstall the assembly into the vehicle. Reinstall your strut assembly into the wheel well. Reinstall your top strut bolts. Torque the strut cap bolts to 55 foot-pounds. The strut may have rotated. All you have to do is use a small pry bar to twist it the way you want it. Once you're lined up send your bolt back through, tighten it back up with an 18 millimeter socket and ratchet and wrench.
Reinstall your forward control arm into the spindle. You may need a large pair of pliers to press the control arms into the spindle. Once it's in, install the pinch bolt halfway to keep it from falling out.
Reinstall the nut on the back of your pinch bolt. Tighten it down with a 16 millimeter socket ratchet and wrench. Torque the pinch bolt to 30 foot-pounds. Using your floor jack or screw jack to simulate the weight of the suspension on the vehicle torque your lower strut bolt to 66 foot-pounds.
Reinstall the wheel onto the hub. It helps if you send a lug bolt through and hold it with a 17 millimeter socket on the other side. Start the first bolt by hand to help keep the wheel in place. Torque the lug bolts to 90 foot-pounds in a cross pattern. The slots on the back of the lug cap are staggered. Be sure to align them before installing.
Reinstall the rubber cap and the rain tray if your vehicle has one. Reinstall the coolant reservoir into the slots on the fire wall. Reinstall the Phillip's head screw to secure it.
Thanks for tuning in. We hope this video helped you out. Next time you need parts for your car, please visit 1AAuto.com. Also check out our other helpful how-to and diagnosis videos.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks!
In this video, we're going to show you how to remove and replace a tie rod on this 2007 Audi A4. That's the same for '02 to '09 A4 as well as S4, some other Audi models, and VW Passat as well. Items you'll need are a new tie rod from 1AAuto.com, 17mm socket, ratchet with a breaker bar or your tire iron, 22mm and 18mm open end wrenches, 13mm and 16mm sockets and ratchet, jack and jack stands, hammer, and some penetrating oil.
Remove the wheel. Use the special center cap removal tool, available at 1AAuto.com, or you could use a 90 degree pick. Put it into the center of the cap and pull. Loosen your lug nuts. They're 17mm. Loosen them with the vehicle on the ground. Raise and support the vehicle. We'll remove the lug nuts the rest of the way.
Obviously, if you had the benefit of air tools, you didn't need to loosen them up on the ground, but you can loosen them now with either wrench. I'm going to use an impact gun. Now, remove the wheel.
We want to loosen this 22mm nut, and we're going to hold the 18mm nut in behind it. I'm just going to use a little bit of penetrating oil and spray it down first. I've got my 18mm wrench on that back nut and then 22mm on the locking nut. Just pull it and it loosens up actually fairly easily. I'm going to just loosen it up a little bit, about a quarter of a turn. Now, we're going to remove this 13mm bolt on top and this 16mm nut here. You need to drive this bolt out. I'm going to put the nut back on here just so I don't end up ruining the bolt itself.
Hammer, get it going. I've driven it out some. I'm just going to use my upper bolt to drive it out the rest of the way. Then, to get the tie rod to drop down, a couple good hits usually loosens it up a little bit. Just shaking and pulling it down. Put your 18mm back on the end of your steering here and then just turn your tie rod end right out.
The old part that we removed from the vehicle, new part from 1A Auto, you can see they're dimensionally the same length and the important part, which is where it goes in to the steering knuckle is the same as well as where it goes into the end of the rack is the same. This is going to be a functional replacement. It's going to fix your problem if your tie rod end is loose. It may look a little different.
For reinstallation, we're going to take the lock nut, set it to basically the same position as the original. This will give you a good preliminary alignment. You will want to take your vehicle to an alignment shop and have an alignment done after you do this repair just to make sure it's all good. This should be able to make it so it's drivable.
Just set that where it is on the original. Just like before, thread it in to the rack. While you're turning this in, make sure you hold the 18mm nut so it doesn't spin at all. Use a wire brush and just try and clean it out a little bit.
Need to move or twist this shaft so it will go up and this indent will line up so the bolt goes through. Just use a pair of pliers, grab it tightly where the indent is, and twist. The other thing is you'll have to line it up somewhat to go up in there. Once you feel like you have that pretty well lined up, put the tie rod up in to place. You should be able to get it started pretty well with some light hammer taps. It should drive it up in the inside.
This bolt goes in. The flat side should be facing the flat on the other side. Tighten the 13mm bolt first. Then tighten the 16mm nut. Now, hold the 18mm nut on the end of the tie rod and rack and tighten the locking nut.
Reinstall the wheel back up in place. Kind of a pain because no lug studs. Twist it and line up the holes. Tighten the lug nut bolts preliminarily. Lower the vehicle.
Now torque your lug bolts to 90 foot-pounds using a star pattern. Put your center cap back on, just note the largest space here. Find your largest space between the tabs on your cap then peek in behind.
Thanks for tuning in. We hope this video helped you out. Next time you need parts for your car, please visit 1AAuto.com. Also check out our other helpful how-to and diagnosis videos.
