Audi A4 RS4 S4 Driver Side Mirror DIY Solutions MIR01311

Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.

In this video, we're going to show you an outside rear view mirror replacement. This is a 2007 Audi A4. It should be pretty much the same for any 2003 to 2008 A4 both the sedan as well as the wagon as well as the S4 and RS4. You'll need a new mirror from 1aauto.com, Phillips and flat blade screwdrivers, 10 millimeter, T25, T30, and T45 Torx drivers, ratchets and extensions, pliers, and a flashlight.

To start out, open the driver's door and release the hood. Pull the lever here back, and that pops the hood, and then you want to disconnect your battery. Now on our vehicle, I believe a couple panels are missing but you just want to pull this weatherstrip back and you can pull the panels up and out. I think there should be one over the battery, but there's not and then you want to use one, once you have uncovered the battery, a 10 millimeter socket and ratchet or a 10 millimeter wrench. Loosen the negative or the black battery cable and pull it up and off and put it off to the side so it doesn't contact the terminal.

Use a flat blade screwdriver and a rag or paper towel to protect the plastic and fabric. There's a little oval panel underneath the door. Pull and you pry out the bottom and it comes out and then you want to pry out this bright strip. You just pry the front out and pull firmly and then pull the back towards the front of the car to remove it.

Six screws hold the door panel on. There's two underneath the door pull and four gold screws at the top. We'll just fast-forward here as I remove those with a Phillips screwdriver. The two that are under the door pull may stay in there. Just make sure you collect them after the door panel is off. Then you can pull from the, starting at the top, pull firmly and you'll release the clips. Our panel comes off a little bit easily, probably because it's been off before, so you may have to pull a little more than what I did there, so just pull around the edge and then once you have the clips released, pull the door panel up and off. I try and gather those screws.

Once you have the panel back, you're going to pull your cable out of the clip and then there's a little hook that you release. Then there's a wire that goes into the speaker. It just has two tabs at the top. Squeeze them together and pull the harness up and out, and then there's a harness here that has an orange safety clip, private safety clip a little bit first. Then pull the connector and the clip down at the same time.

Use a T25 Torx bit and remove the three screws that are holding the window motor in place. Then you can pull the window motor off. It has three connectors on it and they all have a little tab that you push and release. Some of them are a little more difficult than the other ones. Carefully remove the foam insulation and water shield. Even though I'm fast-forwarding it, I am pulling carefully making sure I don't tear or stretch out that shield.

And then you'll need a T25 Torx driver again to remove the sensor. Once that's off then finish, again carefully removing the shield from the door. Pull, and I watch, make sure that the glue doesn't tear the water shield. Connect the other lead from the speaker, again two tabs that you push inside toward each other, and then pull it out. Then the speaker's held in place, again, with three T35 large headed black screws. Then the speaker pulls out, up, and off.

Actually, there are two trim panels to remove at the top corner of the door, there's this outer one and there is one to the left of this that I removed and I didn't get to film, but it's a smaller one that's right next to the mirror. Remove them both. They both pull off. Then there's a T30 Torx screw at the bottom of the window frame. Remove that. You want to remove the bottom of the door weatherstrip the bottom of the door, so pull out on the weather strip, and once you pull out you can see the white and yellow clips that are in behind there. Pull out and then pry the clips. I have a little trim tool, but you could also use a pair of needle nose pliers and do the same thing.

You can see I start using the needle nose pliers right there. Try and do this carefully. The better shape that you leave the clips, the better it'll go together afterwards. In behind where you pulled the speaker, there is a T25 Torx screw that holds the bottom of the regulator on. Remove that one, and then there's the other one further back, remove that.

Now we're going to free up the harness for the mirror. There's basically a little strap clip that you pull off. Pull firmly and it'll come off, and then that frees up the end of the harness. Pull the plug from the door and feed the harness through into the door. Then what I didn't shoot very well, and I apologize for this, there are two harness clips inside the door. You have to reach in there, feel the harness where it's attached to the door, and pull firmly to pull the harness clips from the door.

Four T45 bolts now hold the frame to the door. One up here in the front. I'll fast-forward there to remove that one. Then there's another silver one further back. Now there's a black phosphate coated one at the front, and this one is the longest of the four. Pull this weather strip off and then flat blade screwdriver, pry that cap out. Then there's another T45 Torx bolt, and you'll need the T45 Torx bit as well as a socket ratchet and extension, and remove that one. Use a screwdriver or a pair of pliers to push the teeth that are on the regulator transmission and then push them through.

Now pull the window frame up and out. Be mindful of your power of your harness as well as your weather strip. Then, with your window frame out and on the surface, we're just going to pull the two other clips out for the wiring harness. Just grab onto the harness and work them back and forth and pull them out.

Now remove the T30 Torx screw that holds the mirror in place. The mirror that comes off of our vehicle actually is in perfectly fine shape, but we'll put the new one from 1A Auto on and then we're going to install the painted cover that's already on our original mirror, just so it matches. We'll show you how to remove it, and we'll even show you how to take apart the whole mirror. But some of the steps that we're going to show you, you're not going to need, because you're just going to take your old mirror off and put the new one on.

We're going to remove the glass. Again, this is one of those steps that looks like the mirror is all wiped out anyways and you don't need to do this, but if you want to remove the glass work your fingers in behind there. Good idea to have gloves. I couldn't actually fit my fingers in behind with gloves on, but in case the mirror did break you'd be protected. You work your fingers in behind and try and push near the ring where it's clipped in and pull the glass off. Then you just have to work the two leads for the defrost off of the mirror glass.

To remove the painted bezel, I'm pushing up on the black part and pushing down as you see it here on the painted bezel. That unlocks the clips that are along the bottom. Then I reach in with a 90 pick and pull apart. There's a little clip in there that you release and then you can pull the bezel up. Then I pull with that pick. Then there's another clip further back in the middle of the mirror that you might need to use right there to try and release that. Then that comes off. Again, this is a step that you may not need because if your mirror has been wiped out none of this is usable anyways. It helps to turn over the frame and work on it from the other way.

Remove the old pad. Then you have to walk the mirror down in. The mirror does have a couple of guide pins, so you have to work it up into that upper weather strip and then down and in until it goes in correctly. Once it's in it sit nicely and then put that T30 Torx bolt in place. Make sure that the wire harness comes down where it's supposed to, it's not pinched. Then tighten up that T30 Torx bolt. Now put the clips from the wire harness back into the frame. If the harness is still coiled up just take the tie off and relax it.

To prepare your door to reinstall, the assembly goes inside, and remove the wire clips, and then you'll want to attach them back on to your wire harness. Down the door, take note, there is a clip that the regulator cable goes into. Raise up your assembly, make sure the weather strip is inside the door, and then feed the power mirror harness down in and lower it into place. Make sure the window regulator transmission goes down into place and evenly put it down in. As you can see, the front slides into place pretty easily once you get it lined up, and then you should pull up on this rubber piece of weather strip and pull it out of the way, and push the frame down in.

From the inside, check, make sure everything's lined up correctly. Clip the cable in for the regulator, and then pull the transmission for the window regulator down and push it into place. Now get the harness for the power mirror back into place, and replace the clips back into the holes and in the door so the harness stays out of the way of the window. Install that T30 screw that's way up front, and then the two silver T45 screws that are at the top of the door, and then the longest black one goes in the front, and then the one in the rear, and then you want to tighten those up nice and firm. Install the T25 screws that hold the bottom of the window regulator rails to the door and we'll keep the speed up as we tighten those up. Then replace your speaker. There is a tab at the top that you hang it up on, and then three T25 screws hold it in place. Those would be three, they have a larger head and they're the coarse thread bolts.

Then I don't even know how I keep working this fast, but we're going to go and put the clips back in on the weather strip, and they should push back into place, and they'll snap a little bit. Make sure it's nice and secure, and reinsert the rubber cover over the bolt hole. Now reach in through and push that power mirror harness through and get it set into that grommet. A good time also to make sure your speaker is connected. Put your water shield back in place, make sure you get that door handle cable to come through, and then put that sensor back on with the two T25 Torx screws. Install the window motor. What I'm going to do is take the three screws and I'm going to put them in a few turns first and give them a good pull to make sure that those studs are locked into the door. Screw them in a few threads, it also helps to get them going, and then once you do that, put the window motor in place.

If you get it, and it won't go on all the way, move the window down a little bit and keep applying pressure on the motor. The gears will mesh and it'll slide right on, and then put those three T25 screws back in place. Tighten them up nice and firm. You are going into plastic, so don't over tighten them. Reconnect the three connectors that go into that door module. Make sure you press them up in there and they click. They are nice and secure. Then put that strap clip back on the mirror harness.

Reinstallation of the panel is the reverse of the procedure. Take the large clip, make sure that the safety clip is forward. Put it up and in, and then push the clip up and in while you rotate the safety clip back, and make sure it clicks into place and locks. Replug the speaker wire back in and make sure it clicks. Pull your panel up close and clip, or put the hook back into the door handle and clip the cable in. You want to lift the panel up into place. Push the top of the panel towards the window and make sure it goes into the ledge clip. Once you get it down, you basically want to look in behind and feel behind and make sure that the clips find their holes.

You can see I do that here. I hit it once in the back, but it didn't really set so I'm just trying to line it up correctly. You may have to move it back and forth just a little bit or up and down, but once you get them in, you can give them a few hits and they set into place. Four screws at the top, fast-forward as I put those in, and then using a flashlight, put the screw onto your screwdriver and guide it in. It might help to use a little bit of glue on the end of the screwdriver just to hold the screw onto the screwdriver while you start it in and I'll fast-forward as I do the other one.

Put the trim panel back in place. Slide the backend first and then again look in behind, line up the clips, and then it goes right into place once you have it lined up. The lower panel, the larger clip, goes at the bottom, and then you basically kind of put it into place, force it up into the panel, and then push the bottom in.

Reconnect your battery and then tighten up the 10 millimeter nut. You want to get it until its firm. You don't want to overtighten it and then once that's all set, put any of the panels back in place and reset that weatherstrip to hold them down in the front.

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