BMW Engine Oil Line URO 11 36 1 705 532

What's up guys? I'm Andy from 1AAuto. In this video, I'm going to show you how to replace this engine oil line on this 2001 BMW 325xi. If you need this part or other parts for your car, click the link in the description, head over to 1AAuto.com.

All right. The battery is in the trunk. I'm going to disconnect the negative terminal. I'm just going to use a 10 millimeter wrench to loosen up this nut right here. Grab the connector and disconnect that. Set it aside. I'm going to remove this piece. I just want to take some side cutters, remove these pushpins. Be careful not to cut them. Pull that out. I'll just grab this, pull this aside. There is a couple of clips on there. If it's not coming out too easy, just get straight blade screwdriver and push those in.

Disconnect the mass airflow sensors, push down. Wiggle the connector off. Set that aside. Get a straight blade screwdriver, loosen up this worm clamp. Right there, just like that. We can take that snorkel off right now. Next, I'm going to take these two 10 millimeter bolts out. You could take this top cover up first if you want to, unclip it, pull that off, pull the air filter out, but I'm going to keep that all together. Use a 10 millimeter socket extension and electric ratchet. If you don't have an electric ratchet, use a regular ratchet. Loosen these up. Take those two bolts out. You can grab the airbox all as one and just slide it up.

I'm going to take this cover off right here. Just take these clips, twist it to the side, just like that. Grab this and slide it out. This weather strip might come in the way. It should slide forward, and take the cabin filter out. It slides out as well. I need to remove these wires from this housing right here. You can either take the cover off or you can slide it up right there. I like to take this cover off. Just take a screwdriver, slide that off like that, pull that out of the way.

Grab these wires, pull that down, pull this one down, and I'm going to use a T30 socket extension and a ratchet and I have four screws right there. Take those off. So it's all loose, you just slide this panel up, slide it out of your way. We're going to take this cover off. Normally you'll have some little covers over here, kind of like these. You just take a screwdriver and pop those out and then there's two 10 millimeter bolts. I'm going to use a 10 millimeter socket extension and an electric ratchet. You can use a regular ratchet if you don't have one. Loosen those up. Just use a magnet, grab those bolts. Grab the cover, slide it off.

There's a couple of connectors right here. I'm just going to take some needle nose pliers and squeeze this retainer right here. Slide that through. Same with this one, slide that through, just like that. There is a wire tie connecting these wires right here. Just cut it and you're just going to have to replace it with a new one. Take these wires out of the way. Set them aside. I'm going to disconnect this breather hose right here. Just squeeze these together and you should be able to slide it off. Be careful, it's plastic. They get kind of brittle sometimes. Then we're going to disconnect this connector right here. Just push down on this little clip and slide it up. Just push on that clip.

I'm going to take this intake snorkel off. I'm going to take these two hoses off right here. You can just grab them, twist them, slide it out. You could use a little pick in there if you're struggling to get this off. All right. You can just go around like that. Then you should be able to twist it off. It should come off a little bit easier. If you have hose pliers, you can use hose pliers. Always makes it a lot easier. Take that off.

So there's a hose that slides off this intake tube right here. So there's two different hose clamps that I have to remove. This one and then one that's further in there, it's kind of hard to see. So I'm just going to take a pocket screwdriver, slide underneath here, try to get on it and loosen that hose clip. You'll be able to see it a little better once I get this snorkel out. Well it was actually a little bit easier to take a six millimeter socket and extension and a ratchet and loosen that worm clamp up like that.

Now, I mean, I put it on a longer extension. I'm going to try to get this one out. If not, I'm going to have to use a screwdriver, or use a ratchet, six millimeter socket. It should get this to loosen up. So those are both loosened up. Just grab it, wiggle it a little bit, twist it back and forth. Make sure you don't rip it. Slide it up just like that.

We want to take the dipstick tube out. There's a bracket right here that has a retainer that holds this vacuum line and then also the fuel line right here. Just slide the fuel line out, just pop it out like that. Then this little bracket, I'm just going to take some needle nose pliers and just pinch this together. Push it through. A little bit tricky to get in there, but here we go, push that through. Then there's a bolt down here that's going towards the front of the vehicle. So we're going to take a 13 millimeter socket and a ratchet. If you have a flex head ratchet, that would help out. All right.

So I was able to break it free. If you struggle with this, you can try breaking it free with a wrench. It's just really tight in there. All right. So I'm going to Take that bolt out. So I'll just take a right angled pick, try to get in underneath it. Then just go around the hose, loosen up that seal. It's kind of made a seal and that's what makes it stick to the hose. Now with that loosened, I should be able to twist this. Yep, and pull it off. There we go. Grab the dipstick tube and just slide it up. All right.

So we got the dipstick loose. What we want to do is take this cover off right here because we can't get the dipstick to slide any further up. So loosen this up right here, take that off. Take this weather stripping off right here. Slide this up, slide this wire out of the way. Oops, it fell down. Just make sure these hoses are not attached. Slide the hoses out of the way. I should be able to slide this cover back. Watch out for this vacuum hose right here. That slides out pretty easily. So then you can slide the dipstick up. A little bit easier to get that out, and there you go. I would recommend taking this cover out before you started taking the dipstick out. It'll give you a little bit more room in there and it'll be less of a struggle for you.

Disconnect the connector right here. This is on the purge solenoid. You just push that little tab down right there. You can remove the purge solenoid and just grab it, slide it out if you need to. You could use a pocket screwdriver to loosen this up, or just pull it. We want to disconnect this hose right here, push down on this retainer, twist it out a little bit. Pushing down like that, it's going to loosen up the hose. Then on the backside you can just twist it or use a right angled pick, loosen that up. I'm trying not to rip the hose. Just grab it and try to twist and pull, just like that.

A connector right here, remove this connector. A little tab right there, push down on that, slide that off, and there's another connector right under here. It's kind of hard to see. Just push down on that. Slide that out. You can mark all these connectors if you want to, but they pretty much don't give you enough wire to connect them in the wrong spot. So you should be all set in trying to figure out which connector goes where when you're going to put it back together. Slide that one out and right here there's one that goes to the alternator. Just disconnect this connector, just like that. There's one more connector down here. This goes to a camshaft sensor. You can disconnect this one. I think we could probably leave this one plugged in, but we'll disconnect it anyway.

You can use a 10 millimeter socket extension and ratchet. Take this bolt out right here. Then I'm going to take this nut out. I can still use the same socket and ratchet. Take that off. Right by the throttle body, there's another bolt, a nut that's attached. You're going to have to go under the wire or over this wire right here. Take a 10 millimeter socket extension and a ratchet. Get that one out. Once you crack it free, you can loosen it by hand. Pull the nut out. We'll slide this out. That should be out of our way.

There's a wire tie right here. I'm just going to cut that off. Actually use some side cutters. There you go. Pull these wires out and then there's this vacuum line right here. I'm going to take this out of that retainer right there. The connector that comes from this junction block right here, a junction of wires, and just follow the wire up. Disconnect the connector right there. That one right there, and you just push down on that little spring clip. I'm just going to disconnect this vacuum line right here, get that out of the way a little bit. Just keep in mind how that was routed. Stick that over there. Now there's a little more room.

Next, I want to take this idle air control out. I'm going to use a T30 socket extension and a ratchet. Take these two screws out. Take that out. I'm going to take this one out. Pull that screw out then grab the idle air control valve, just pull on it. It should come right out. All right. So I really had to force it out, kind of grabbed it like this and then used my other hand and pulled it real hard. Got it out. There's just a rubber grommet that holds it in there. All right.

So this throttle body connector right here, we'll disconnect that. Just push down on that tab, slide the connector off, just like that. Put that out of the way. Great. So we're going to pull the throttle body off and use a 10 millimeter socket extension and electric ratchet. You can use some regular ratchet if you don't have an electric one. Take these four bolts out. There's two more on the bottom. All right. Slide that out. Now let me grab the throttle body, and just slide it out. Make sure the gasket comes with the throttle body, or you can peel it off the intake if it gets stuck to the intake.

Now there's the bolt or a nut that's underneath here. We're going to have to take that off. That's holding this bracket that holds the bottom of the intake. I'm going to use a 16 millimeter socket along the extension. Get right down there. I'm going to use a breaker bar to break it free. Once it's loose, then I can use a ratchet. All right. I got that loose. Carefully pull the socket out with the nut on there. I'm going to disconnect the brake booster hose, so just grab this carefully and just pull it out. I'm going to twist it a little. You're going to hear the vacuum leaking out when you pull it off, just like that. Just make sure that grommet stays in there properly, and there's a bracket that holds this hose on. I am going to take that screw out of that bracket.

Now, this bracket, if you're able to unclip this hose from the bracket, you can do that. This one's pretty rusty, so I don't really want to risk it. So I'm just going to take this screw out. I'm going to use a T30 socket and a ratchet. Take that screw out, slide that down. There's a vacuum hose right under here. It's kind of hard to see. It goes right under this starter into this little cylinder thing. You can try to take it off right there, and this one actually ripped right there because it's all dry, rotted, and brittle. So pull that vacuum line up, or if you disconnected it from up top, that's fine. Then there's a little retainer that holds it in there, I'm just going to pull that aside, set that over there.

So on the backside here, there is a vacuum line with a one way valve. We're going to leave that attached. I'll leave that attached for right now. There's another vacuum line that comes from this side of the vehicle. Just disconnect that, set that aside. Disconnect this connector right here. This is another one of those spring connectors, you just push down on the spring. Slide the connector out. It's a little bit hard to show, my hand's in the way. Get that. The seal actually got stuck to the sensor. So I'm just going to take a pick, slide the seal off. I'm going to reinstall that right in there, because you don't want to lose that because that keeps it weatherproof.

Now, we want to disconnect the fuel injector connectors. What I'm going to do is take a pick, and there's a little clip on the injector connector, right there. I'm just going to slide it this way. Slide this this way. Pull the clip out of the way. You might need two picks while you're doing this. We're going to do all six injectors, just like that. Hopefully that sits right like that. The same on these. Right. So all those clips are taken off of the connectors, and just slide this harness up. Be careful of this hose. There's a little bit of insulation on this hose that kind of gets in the way a little bit. See if you can get that past, you don't want to rip the hose. Make sure none of these click back in. This one clipped back in. Slide this out.

Now it's off. The mounting is off. So it should all come up. Slide this out of the way. So there's all the clips, so you don't want to lose these. I'm trying to get these back on so that when you put it back together, it's a little bit easier, just like that. They probably make a special tool for removing this. If you don't find it on the connector, it's probably down near the injector. So let me just grab a pick, pull it off. Just slide it back on the connector. Just take this harness, slide it out of the way. Just leave that over there.

Now, before I pull the fuel rail up, I am going to disconnect this cable right here that runs across. Make sure you disconnected the battery in the trunk if you hadn't done that yet. There should be a cover that goes over this, pull that cover up. Taking the 19 millimeter wrench and loosen this up. Take the cable off, just slide it there, and then place it around that side. I am going to release the fuel pressure, just take this cap off right here.

There's a Schrader valve in there. I'm just going to take a pocket screwdriver. Make sure you take a rag. It's a good idea to wear safety glasses while you're doing it, and I'm just going to push on that Schrader valve, and it's just going to release any fuel pressure and there's not really any fuel pressure in the system right now, so that's good. I'll just put the cap back on.

Now there's four bolts that I'm going to take off the fuel rail. I'm going to use the 10 millimeter socket extension and a ratchet. Loosen these up. Let me just go around and loosen them all up first, and go back and take them out. So I want to pull the fuel rail up. There's a couple of ways you can do this. There's some clips right underneath the injectors right there, you can pull those up, or you can just pull the rail up with the injectors. But generally the O-rings in there get stuck in there. Take a little bit of lubricant, make sure it's not a silicone based lubricant because you don't want to ruin the O2 sensors. Take something that doesn't have silicone in it. Let that soak for a minute.

Now that that has soaked a little bit, you could even use a little bit of engine oil or a transmission fluid would be acceptable as well. It's not going to hurt anything. I'm just going to get a pick and try to get under here. Try not to crack anything. Just try to slide this up. Try to wiggle it back and forth a little bit. A pick's not going to work. Okay. It slid right up. Actually let me do that. This harness is in my way, so I'm just going to move it over here. Just rotate this a little bit, and then you can disconnect the fuel line right here if you want. You could probably just slide this out of the way and have the room. But there's a disconnect right here, and as long as you let the pressure off, this shouldn't spray too much pressure. It's still a good idea to have safety glasses on.

So you're going to push in on the fuel rail, push this disconnect off, and then you're going to try to slide it all out together. Just like that, up, and the connector stayed with that, and there you go. All right. So now I want to take these nuts off, all holding the intake down. I'm going to use an 11 millimeter socket extension and a ratchet. So it'll loosen these all up. I realized there's a little more dirt in there than I'd like to see. So what I'm going to do is just cover up these little ports for the fuel injectors, and then I'm just going to take a blow gun and blow that out of the way. None of the dirt's probably gonna go down these injector holes, but just to be a little more cautious. Now I can pull these out. That's a little less there, which is nice. Okay.

So this is all loose. Just rock this back and forth a little bit. Just slide it up. This positive cable is going to go through the intake, so just unclip it right there as you slide this up, just do it gently in case something's still attached. We have this hose attached right here. Remove the connector right here. Slide that connector out of the bracket right there. This is not attached. Slide it up. There we go.

Now, what you want to do is check in the intake valves, they're right here through all these ports, and just make sure there's no dirt or anything in there. What you can do is take a blow gun and just blow it out. If you see anything in there, make sure there's no metal in there. Obviously you don't want to drop a bolt in there. So what you can do is take some rags and just stuff up these holes. You just want to make sure you remove these rags before you put it all back together. So I try to leave them out a little bit so it's obvious you don't forget these. I want to remove this hose. I am going to take something to catch the oil. You can either use a little pan or a little absorbent pad right there.

I'm going to take a 19 millimeter wrench, loosen this bolt up here. It's just a banjo bolt with two seals on either side. Slide that out of the way. Get the seals. Not too much oil came out, which is good. It's just dripping a little bit. Just let that drain. Then I'll take on the other side, take this bolt out over here. Keep in mind the angle of the way the line went, because you're going to want to put the new line on that same angle. You can put a rag underneath here if any of the oil starts dribbling out. This one looks okay though. Just slide that. Slide the hose out. Here's the old part. Here's the new part from 1AAuto.com. The hose is the same length, fittings on the end are the same. Get yours at 1AAuto.com and you'll be ready to rock and roll.

All right. So we want to install this. This is going to go in this location. I did get some new seals. So take the banjo bolt, put one seal on that side. They're a little like crush washer type seal. Get another on this side. Get this started over here. Then the same down here. It's one of those old seals out. Take the banjo bolt, take the new seal, put that on there. Slide this through there. Slide the new seal on that side as well. Let me get this started over here. All right.

Then I'm going to take my 19 millimeter wrench, make sure the hose is the right angle of how it came off. Just snug this up. It's going to be hard to get a torque wrench in there. Then the same with this side and just snug this one up as well. Oops. One thing to note, the straight part of the line goes at the top. The curved or the bent part goes down below down to the section where it attaches to the engine. All right.

When you have the intake off, it's a good idea to look at your vacuum lines because if they're old and decrepit like these, then it's a good idea to replace them because they're going to leak, especially on the ends and stuff. So get some vacuum line. This is 530 seconds vacuum line, and just reroute it the way it came off. There's also a vacuum line over here. There's a vacuum accumulator right there and there's a line that goes from that all the way up to right here next to the brake booster. So it's a good idea to check that line and replace that as well.

I'm going to leave these rags in the intake ports while I clean around the intake area. Just take a little brake parts cleaner on a rag and just wipe it down. If you have any tough spots, what you can do is take a scraper and just very gently scrape it, scrape off some of the dirt, wipe it off with a rag. Try to keep as little dirt out of the intakes as possible. They do make plastic scrapers, you can use one of those, the plastic razor blades. You can use a razor blade if you're very gentle. Be careful. Don't scratch any of the metal, the aluminum. It is soft.

Here's one of those plastic razor blades or scrapers. You can try this. These don't work great. They work okay. Sometimes it's easier just to use a real razor blade, but they're not dangerous to the head of the vehicle or any of the engine parts. It's not going to gouge into the aluminum. All right. So that's all cleaned up. I'm just going to take some compressed air and just anything loose, blow it away. Now it's important that you take these rags out before you install the intake. So just grab some needle nose pliers, take the rag out. Make sure if there's anything got on top, it doesn't fall down in there, any debris. Just slide these out. Then what I like to do again is just look down the porch, see if you see anything, and take a blow gun and blow them out.

So we want to get the intake ready to install on the vehicle. We're going to take the old intake gasket off, just peel it off just like this. Now, you do want to take a rag and some brake parts cleaner and just clean these all out? Make sure you don't get anything inside the intake runners. A little bit of brake clean is not going to hurt it, but you don't want any dust to go up there or anything. I'm just going to tip it and let it dry. All right.

So that's all clean. You can just take a rag and try to dry some of that. Take a screwdriver, get right in there. Just go all around like that. Now it looks good. Then take the new gaskets or seals, install these. These are a little bit different. They're not all connected, but there's still going to do the same job. Just match these up the right way. Just like that, and do the same with the other ones. All right.

So I temporarily reattached this fuel rail so the fuel would not spill out. So I'm going to disconnect this now. Just make sure it doesn't spray on you. You could use a rag to cover this if you wanted to. Just push down. Push down on this, and then slide it out. It comes out just like that, there's a little bit of fuel. I'm going to set that aside. Before I install the intake plenum, I want to connect this connector right here because it's going to be hard to get to. So, we'll just slide this over here. That's the connector that goes to it. Lock that in place right there, and then just try to have these wires out of the way, and we're doing that. All right. That's all set.

This is going to go in the front. Smooth that out of the way. You could clip this up there. So this positive battery cable is going to go through here. Slide that through, and it's going to go up through here as well because it goes and gets secured right there. So we'll just slide that like that. So as you're installing this, just feed that through. Then we're going to look underneath, there's a couple of things we have to attach underneath here. These knock sensors we have to attach into that bracket. So while you have this up in position, try to get that installed. It's going to be hard to see. You're just going to have to do it by feel. All right. It seems good. I'm just going to make sure they're all in there.

Then one thing to keep in mind also before you go any further, just to look down the runners and the intake ports and see if there's anything fell down in there. You could use a blow gun again. Pull that out. That looks good. There's a stud underneath here with the line that stood up with that bracket. As you line up the studs for the intake top, just lift that. Make sure you're not going to pinch anything over here. It's looking good. All right.

So underneath here, right where this accumulator is, right there, you need to hook up this vacuum line that comes off the intake. It's a good idea to hook it up right now before you tighten anything down, just because it's easier access. Hook that up. Make sure that's out of the way. That's good. One thing I should have done while I was on the bench with the intake plan was clean out these fuel ports. Just take a rag and a screwdriver, just get in there and twist, clean those out. They're not too bad, so I'm not that worried about it, but it's a good idea to do this on the bench before you put it on.

Now we'll take these intake nuts and we'll install these. All right. With all those nuts in, I just want to hold the intake and I'll take an 11 millimeter socket extension and I'll use an electric ratchet just to snug them down, and then I'm going to torque them. Then I'm going to use a torque wrench and I'm going to start from the center nut and work my way outwards, and I'm going to torque these to 132 inch pounds. Make sure you're on inch pounds, not foot pounds. There's no specific order for which you have to torque these. I just like to do it from the center, working my way out. That's good. Just alternating side to side, front to back.

After those upper intake nuts are secure, then we can secure this bracket that goes at the base of the intake on that stud. Take that nut. It's kind of hard to see and to get that started. Take a 17 millimeter socket and extension and a ratchet and we'll tighten this up, and just snug that up. That's good. Okay. So we want to reconnect this vacuum line on the back of the intake plenum. You're just going to have to feel for it. You really can't see anything. So this one. Slide this connector right here while you have some of this stuff pretty loose. You can get in here and you just want to connect this. There's a solenoid on the back of here , the vacuum actuated solenoid. So just plug that in where you can access it.

Now we're going to patch the fuel injector rail. I want to find the fuel line back here. This is the fuel line. Okay. I'm just making sure I'm not going to block anything. So what you can do is attach this. Try not to spill any fuel. Just twist it a little bit. Lock that in place. That's good. We can slide this back over here into position. There is a bracket that this fuel line will sit in on the backside here. I think that vacuum line might be on my way. I'm going to disconnect that vacuum line and then reattach it. All right. So that's good. Reattach that vacuum line over the fuel line.

Now, before we slide these fuel injectors back into the intake, what I want to do is just lubricate the seals. It's a good idea to replace these seals, or you can just check them, make sure that they look pretty good. But generally, replace those. What I like to do is use a little bit of transmission fluid, a little ATF. Just put it on your fingers and then just rub the seals. It's a good idea to use either engine oil or transmission fluid. Otherwise, if you use a silicone lubricant, you're going to cause your O2 sensors to fail. So, you don't want to do that. So I'll just lube them up. That's just going to make them go in a little easier. Make sure those holes were clean, line them up. Those lined up, you just press this down. Just wiggle it a little bit. Just like that til they're down. There we go. There you go. It's all the way down. Now I can reinstall those bolts. These bolts, get these all started. Now we'll snug them down. Now I'll take a 10 millimeter socket extension and a ratchet, tighten these down, just snug.

Now I'll take these. These are the connectors for the fuel injection. Just make sure you connected that in the back underneath the head or on the head. That's all set. I just need to slide this over here. Slide this in position. When those are all lined up, then you just grab it, lock it in place. Take this connector, connect that to this solenoid right here, lock that in place, and this one right here, connect that one. Make sure they're tight so we don't forget about this. Just hook this up now. Lock that in place, and take these retainers off right here, just slide this into the fuel rail first. Then it'll be easier to install these connectors. Just slide the wires in first and then the connector. Just like that.

We can hook this battery positive cable up. Just goes from the starter motor. Just take a wire brush, clean this up. It looks like it's getting corrosion on it. Just make sure it's nice and clean. Take this as well and clean this area, even the backside of the nut. It's all clean. Install this here, just like that. Just take a 19 millimeter wrench, snug this up. That's good. Then if you have the cover, put the cover over there. All right.

Now we're going to reconnect this bracket right here. Just take this little screw here, get that started. In actuality, we probably didn't need to take that off, but it's okay. I'll take a T30 socket and a ratchet, get this started, and then we'll snug it up. Now we can reconnect this vacuum port to the brake booster. Just carefully slide that in. Great. Make sure you have a new seal. If you don't have a new seal, just make sure it's at least raised up from the actual throttle body, which is good. Then also make sure you clean this surface right here. Just take a little brake parts cleaner on a rag, just wipe this down, make sure that surface looks good. Take the throttle body with your new gasket, slide that in position, and take one of the bolts. All right. That's good. All right.

Now I'll just take a 10 millimeter socket and a ratchet and I'll snug these bolts up. Not too tight. Take this idle air control valve. Make sure the grommet is in the intake, in the proper location. Now line this little part right into that grommet. Slide it in. Take these screws, get these lined up, and then get the other ones started right here. Let's get them both started and then you can snug them down. I'll just take a T30 socket and a ratchet. We'll snug these up. It's good.

Now I want to reattach this piece, but just make sure any connectors you can get, plug those in. This one was to the oil temperature sensor, so that was right there. Then once we attach this, there's a stud right here. That is the stud down below here. Make sure you get that bracket on the stud, and then take the two nuts. This one that goes up here, get that one started. One goes to this lower stud, get that one on. Then we have a bolt that goes right there, install that bolt. Then I'll just take a 10 millimeter socket and ratchet, tighten this up, and those other two nuts. For this lower nut I just use an extension. It's kind of hard to get to. Then just snug this one up as well.

Now we're going to plug in the throttle body connector right there. Line it up, lock it in place. There's a crank sensor connector right here. Line that up, lock that in place. This connector right here goes to the alternator, plug that in, lock it in place. This connector is going to go right here, lock that in place. This connector goes to the idle air control valve right here, line that up, lock it in place. Where the dipstick hole is, where it goes into the engine, there's an actual O-ring there. It's a good idea to replace that O-ring if possible. You're going to have to use a pick and try to pick it out and just make sure it doesn't fall into the engine oil pin, but ours looks okay, so I'm not going to, but if you end up with a ... you could end up with a vacuum leak afterwards or even an oil leak. So just keep that in mind if you're putting the dipstick to the valve.

So with the new O-ring, or take the old O-ring out of the engine, just slide that up there. Then you can lubricate this with some white lithium grease or some engine oil, or just line this up in position. These coolant hoses kind of get in the way a little bit. I'm kind of going to move those out of the way. Slide that down, just like that. Push that dipstick down. Make sure it goes down all the way. What you could do is take a mirror and just check the bracket, make sure the bracket's lined up with the bolt hole. Sometimes that can be tricky. Just make sure you lubricate the O-ring and you should be able to get it.

Now I'm going to put the bolt in. I'm just going to get it lined up. All right. Now I'm going to tighten that bolt down. I'm actually going to use a 13 millimeter swivel socket and an electric ratchet. If you don't have a swivel socket or an electric ratchet, you can use a regular one. There's not a lot of room to work back here, so I'll just tighten this up, snug it down. I'll go back with a wrench. I'll just use the 13 millimeter wrench and just snug it. You could use a ratchet wrench also. There we go, that's good.

So here's the other end of that breather or the drain hose, and we're going to slide that on to the dipstick tube right here. There we go, and then just slide it all the way on, and that's good. Now I did take this bracket off before I put the dipstick tube on. This is just going to hold the fuel line, so I'm just going to reinstall that. Just slide that back into the bracket on the dipstick too. Right there. It's kind of hard to see, and then slide the fuel line back in there. So if these hoses got in your way, you could remove this bracket when you were doing the dipstick. So just reinstall this. Slide these hoses back in, and then this will slide right over here. That's good.

Next, before I install this panel right here, it is going to be significantly easier to install this snorkel. So we're going to install this now. When we took it out, we did it the other way, but it's a lot easier to get this in. Just line this up, make sure your worm clamps are on there. Then from up here, I'm just going to use a screwdriver, a straight blade screwdriver and tighten up that worm clamp that goes on that top port of the snorkel. Snug that up, and then do the same with the bottom one. So we're going to take these vacuum lines, one that goes to the top, this comes right off the intake right there, and then this one comes from underneath there. So install that, that's good.

Now we'll take this cover, slide this over here. If you struggle with this, you can pull the brake booster hose off, get a little more room. There we go, that lined up. So it's actually one of these push twists retainers that hold these in. So just get that lined up, push it in. So that's good. You may have one over here, this vehicle did not have one there, so keep that in mind. I will take this vacuum hose that goes to the brake booster. Line this up right there. Reinsert it into the booster, and then the same with this wire, just slide this right there. Now we can take the weather strip. Get this lined up just like that.

Take the valve, we're going to slide this underneath here. There is a vacuum line that you need to attach that to. That goes to the intake. So slide that in position there first. Then this is the mounting. This is a rubber mounting grommet that you're just going to slide it onto the bracket. Kind of hard to see. We'll go that back and forth. This is going to attach to the bottom of the valve. If it makes it easier, you could probably attach this before you slide it into the bracket, and lock it in place. It's good. Take the connector. This is the connector for that, and lock that in place.

Install the dipstick. Reinstall this cover, slide it under the wires. Okay. So this has to ... there's a couple of clips underneath here that have to slide onto this rail. Let's see. There we go. All right. So make sure those clips slide in position and take the bolts. Get the bolts started. Take a 10 millimeter socket extension and a ratchet, tighten these down. Just snug. It is plastic, not too tight. There should be two caps that go over here. This vehicle doesn't have them, they're missing. So I'm not going to put those in, but make sure you reinstall those caps.

I'm going to reinstall the airbox. Get back in position. Move this clamp over here. Install these two bolts here and here. Take a 10 millimeter socket extension and ratchet, tighten these bolts up. Just snug. It's good. Use a straight blade screwdriver, tighten up this worm clamp, snug, and plug this connector to the mass airflow sensor, lock it in place. This intake, put this back through the airbox, clip it in place. Take the push pins, get these lined up. I'm just going to get them all started first and then lock them down. Lock it down.

Now we want to install this. Just get this lined up. You can get these screws started. I'm going to take a T30 socket extension and a ratchet. Tighten these up. Now reinstall these wires in this cover right here. Just like that. Take this cover, line it up, and it's good. Take the filter. We're going to slide it in with the curved side towards the vehicle, so the board side more towards the outer of the vehicle. Just slide that in position like that. I'm going to take this cover, it's going to just slide in underneath this weatherstripping. Just push it in. Get these lock tabs to line up and lock them down. They're spring loaded, and the last one, and you're good to go. Reconnect the battery, put the negative terminal on. Take a 10 millimeter wrench, and just tighten up this nut, and just snug it up. Make sure it's tight, it doesn't wiggle loose. You're good to go.

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