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In this video we're going to be working with our 1996 GMC Sierra. We're going to show you how to remove and replace the EGR tube on a 5.7L V8. If you like this video please click subscribe, we have a ton more information on this and many other vehicles, and if you need this part for your truck you can follow the link down in the description over to 1AAuto.com. Here are the items you'll need for this repair.
Items you need for this repair: 13mm to 25mm sockets, pliers, radiator hose pliers, drain bucket
To remove the EGR tube, right at the back of the manifold there is a one inch nut on the bottom. Now ours again is very rusty, and we're not able to remove that with any tools, so we're going to cut it right there. If you're just replacing the EGR tube, you can use a one inch socket on it with a big ratchet at that point and get it off, but we're replacing our entire manifold, so we're just going to cut it and pull our manifold out of the truck. Now we took this out of the truck completely to make it easier to show you, but you should be able to do this in the vehicle. It's really difficult to get on this nut with it up against the firewall, so if you cut the hose off like we did, you should be able to get in there with a one inch socket and a ratchet and remove it that way. You just want to make sure you don't fall down onto the lower stud on the actual exhaust, or you're going to get stuck on there.
You'll need to remove your thermostat hose from the thermostat housing in order to access the other end of the EGR tube. Now, you could lower your coolant level, but where we've just gotten done putting fresh coolant in the motor, we're going to use a set of block off pliers, which can be had pretty cheap. We still have a drain bucket underneath the engine as we are still going to lose a small amount of coolant, but choking off that hose is going to mean we lose a lot less and we'll only have to top it off as this is the top, and we shouldn't have to force out much for air bubbles.
Using a pair of pliers, compress the clamp and remove it from the flange. You should then be able to twist the hose and remove it from the thermostat housing. Using a 22 millimeter wrench, loosen and remove the fitting for the EGR tube into the intake manifold. Grab the base of the oil fill neck, rotate it counter clockwise to remove from the engine. Remove the 13 millimeter bolt on the hold down bracket at the back of the lower intake manifold. You should now be able to sneak the EGR tube out, you may want to pop out this breather line just for a little extra room.
Here we have our old part that we removed from our vehicle, and our new part from 1AAuto.com. As you can see, these parts are exactly the same with the same fittings on each end. We did have to cut our old one off. We have some nice new heat wrap on there, as well as the new hold down bracket for the EGR tube.
What tends to happen to these is they get brittle and crack or break from rust, as well as getting damaged during the removal of other parts. If these leak, you're going to get a check engine light, an exhaust smell, and you're going to hear an exhaust leak under the hood. Fortunately, with this new part from 1A Auto, we can replace our old one with a part that'll fit just like our original equipment, and fix you up right.
Reinstall the EGR tube. We’re going to want to set up the threaded end first. Start the fitting back into the intake manifold, and then tighten it back down with your 22 millimeter wrench. Set up the other end after you get the intake side tight, and start those threads. You'll need to get in there with a 25 millimeter or a one inch stubby wrench, or crows foot. Really whatever you can get in there with to tighten it down, and these don't have to be super tight. When it's a pipe thread, once the threads start getting tight, you want to just give them a little bit more and that's it.
Reinstall the oil fill neck and the breather, as well as any other components you moved to get the EGR tube out. Reposition the bracket, once the bracket is in place, reinstall your 13 millimeter bolt and tighten it down. Reinstall the thermostat hose, compress the clamp and slide it back into place and refill your coolant as necessary.
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