Chevrolet Pontiac Saturn Front Driver & Passenger Side 2 Piece Wheel Bearing & Hub Assembly Set TRQ BHA53438

Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet.

Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks. In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the hub on this 2005 Cobalt. This vehicle has four lugs and no ABS, but the process for a vehicle if you have the five lug and you have ABS on your vehicle, the process is generally the same. There's just one extra lug but and you also have to disconnect and reconnect the ABS harness. So we're going to show you front hub replacement. The tools you'll need are jack and jack stands, 14 and 19 mm sockets, a 30 mm socket, and the reason I put that separately is because that's generally not one that's in a common tool set. You'll need ratchet extensions, and you'll need either a breaker bar or a pipe for the bolts, because they will be difficult to loosen, and then you'll need a large screwdriver, and probably a hammer.

With the wheel cover off, you'll want to remove the center hub nut, it's a 30 mm nut, and you'll want to probably have the car on the ground. If you're working with hand tools, have the car on the ground, the car will hold itself in place. Use a large breaker bar or a ratchet with a pipe and remove that center nut. Then, also, again if you have just hand tools, loosen up the lug nuts, then raise and secure the vehicle on jack stands and remove the lug nuts and wheel and tire.

Ok, use a small pry bar or screwdriver and just pry out here. That will allow the caliper to come off easier. You'll want to remove this 14mm bolt and this 14 mm bolt. Take your caliper and brakes off. Ok, just speed it up here as I remove those two bolts. Those bolts should not be in there that tight, so they should come out with a regular wrench with some force. And then when I take the caliper off, I just put it up on the strut and then use a large screwdriver and just pry the pads off. Ok, now you want to remove the caliper bracket, which is two 15 mm bolts, one here, one here. 15 mm socket, and then you'll want to use a breaker bar or a piece of pipe like this for extra leverage. Speed up here again as I just remove those two bolts the rest of the way and then remove that bracket.

The axle, it's already nice and loose. What you can do if it doesn't just push right out - you don't want to beat on it too much with a hammer, cause you don't want to ruin your constant velocity joints. But what you can do is give it one good rap, and if you see it move, then once it starts moving, it should come out pretty easily. The next step would be to remove the three bolts that hold the hub, which is one here, one up here and then one on the back side, right here. Use an extension and our bar again for the extra leverage, and they should come apart fairly easily.

Fast forward again here as I remove the other bolts and just one note - if you have ABS, the car I'm working on does not ABS brakes, but if you have ABS brakes, you'll want to disconnect your ABS lead, probably before you take out the rear bolt. And that's pretty easy, you'll see the connection it's right in behind the hub, you put it off the clamp that holds on to the metal bracket, and then just pull a tab up and disconnect the lead. Ok, if you had ABS brakes at this point, actually, before you hammer it out, you unhook the ABS sensor, and when you pull it out just be careful, pull the center out, washer, and then take the backing plate off. Backing plate can stay right there for right now.

New hub from 1A Auto, goes right on, if you have ABS, you'll want to feed the sensor wire through first. Ok. This goes on pointed to the front. Get the hub into the axle bit. Start one of the bolts from the backside, press the hub against it, and then start the bolt in. Start the bolt in. I'll speed up here as I start all three bolts in and then kind of tighten them, just firm, you want to torque them afterwards, and obviously at this point if you had the ABS brakes, make sure you reconnect your ABS harness and clip the connection back on to the backing plate. Tighten these to 70 to 75 foot-pounds. And I'll speed up here again as I just tighten the other two bolts. Put the washer on, and the nut. And I'm just going to preliminarily tighten this up.

Ok I'm going to kind of speed up through here, putting the brakes back together. If you wanted to see this in regular speed, we do have a video for the brakes for the Chevy Cobalt, but you put the disk back in place, or the rotor back in place. I use a nut to hold it on or a lug nut to hold it on. Then put the caliper bracket back on, tighten those bolts. You want to torque those bolts to 75-80 foot-pounds. And then once you have that all set, you'll put the pads back in place, put the pads back in place and then put the caliper down into place and tighten the bolts that hold the caliper. You want to tighten those 20-22 foot-pounds. Continuing with the faster motion here, put your wheel and tire back in place. If you put a lug to hold the disk on, you can take that off. Put the wheel and tire back in place. Start the lug nuts by hand and then preliminarily tighten them before you let the vehicle down. Ok, torque your lug nuts to 100 foot-pounds. Ok, now you'll want to torque your spindle nut to 155 foot-pounds.

And if applicable, put your center cap or your hub cap back on and install the retainers. Any time you've had the brakes apart, pump them up a bunch of times, then do test stops of 5 and 10 mph before road testing the vehicle. Make sure everything's working well.

We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the internet and in person.