2010 Dodge Challenger V6 3.5L EGR Valve Mopar 04593892AA

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In this video we're going to be working with our 2006 Chrysler 300. We're going to show you how to remove and replace your vehicle's EGR valve on a 3.5-liter V6.

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Here are the items you'll need for this repair.

Before removing your wiper arm, use a small piece of tape on your windshield. I like to use painter's tape. Mark the edge and the angle of your wiper blade, so when we reinstall the arm we can make sure it's in about the same place.

Take a small flat blade screwdriver and pop the cap off the end of your wiper arm and remove the nut. Using a 15 millimeter socket and ratchet, loosen and remove the nut on the end of your wiper arm. Once the nut is out, push down on the joint of the arm to loosen it from the splines and remove it. Repeat these steps with the opposite wiper arm.

Using a trim removal tool, remove the nine push pins securing the cowl to the cross member going all the way across and in the same place as on the opposite side. In each corner there's a Phillips head screw and a little plastic pin on this rubber piece here. We'll have to pop the rubber off of that pin. It pops off by hand. Remove the Phillips head screw. These screws only need to be turned a quarter turn counterclockwise to release the hooks. If yours strip, you can reach underneath and move the hook by hand. The rest of the cowl is held in with metal clips under the windshield, which simply pull up to release so you can remove your cowl cover.

Disconnect the electrical connector from the motor. Remove the two 10 millimeter bolts securing the wiper transmission to the vehicle. We'll do this using a 10 millimeter socket ratchet and extension. Remove the assembly from the vehicle.

Now unfortunately, the EGR tube and valve are on the back of the motor here. They're pretty difficult to see, so you'll need to remove your wiper transmission to access it. We're going to remove a few other major components just to make it easier to show you where everything is. Now if you look through the opening in the manifold where your transmission dipstick tube is here, you can actually see the EGR. You'll have to reach here right where your wiper transmission would have been and access it from the back side of the motor on the passenger side. Remove the 8-millimeter volts. There's two of them here on the flange securing the lower half of the EGR tube to the EGR valve. We'll do that with an 8-millimeter socket and ratchet. Now on the rear bolt it may be useful to get an extension on there to give yourself a little more room to turn the ratchet there. You could also use a universal joint. You may be more comfortable with a shorter or a longer extension than I've used, really, anything to help get you some more room. On the back of the intake manifold a little bit to the driver's side of center, just the top of your EGR tube, that simply pops out. Be sure to get the seal, if it pops off. Remove the EGR tube from the vehicle.

Now there are two bolts securing the EGR valve to the back of the cylinder head. You can see one of them here in the 9 o'clock position under the flange where our tube bolted up. There's another on the opposite side in the 3 o'clock position. We'll remove both of these with the 10-millimeter socket and ratchet, and use whatever combination of U-joints or extensions makes it easiest for you to reach. Pop the red safety tab off to the side. Push down and release the connector. The reason we're doing this now is because it's a lot easier to get at here than it is when it's bolted to the engine. Once all that's done, you can remove your EGR valve from the vehicle. Be sure to get the gasket that goes on this flange here. Whether it's attached to the flange, the motor, or it's fallen off like ours did on the way out, be sure it's not on the engine when you install your new one.

Here we have our old EGR valve which we removed from our vehicle and our new part from 1AAuto.com. As you can see, these parts are exactly the same. We have the same body of the EGR valve, same connector. We have the same two-bolt flange for our EGR tube and the same two-bolt flange for where our EGR mounts up to the back of the motor. What you can see is this actually looks like it's a little bit bigger from carbon build-up. That looks very dark, so it's probably a little deceiving on camera to see the size of that opening. The actual openings are the same size, just that carbon build-up makes a dark ring and makes it look bigger. What your EGR valve does is controls the flow of exhaust gases back into the intake manifold. This lowers combustion temperatures and reduces emissions of a harmful gas called NOx. EGR stands for exhaust gas recirculation for this reason and if stuck closed can cause emissions-related faults and check engine lights, or if stuck open can cause issues with idling and acceleration, getting misfires or a low power feeling. This is because the exhaust gases are meant to come in during part throttle cruise like at highway speeds when it's not going to damage the feel or fuel economy of the vehicle. If you're having EGR-related check engine lights, or faults, or a misfire or lack of power condition that can be traced back to a stuck open EGR valve, this new part from 1A Auto is going to go and direct fit just like your original equipment and fix you up right.

Now the new EGR gasket has a square hole for the bolts. This is convenient because you can start your bolts a couple of threads in like I have here to keep them in place while we line up this EGR valve without needing to line them up later and hold everything at once. Simply line it up to its spot on the back of the head. Be sure the old gasket is off of the back of the head before installing the new valve and gasket. Once everything is lined up, take your 10-millimeter socket ratchet extension and U-joint and get both bolts started into the head a couple of threads before tightening either one down fully. Reconnect the electrical connector and engage the red safety tab.

Reinstall your EGR tube. Make sure that the gasket is on the end, that everything slides in nicely. We'll then take one of our 8-millimeter bolts and our gasket, set them into the EGR tube at the bottom. Then tighten these bolts down with your 8-millimeter socket ratchet extension and U-joint, if necessary.

Reinstall the wiper motor and transmission assembly and start your two 10-millimeter bolts by hand, one on each end. We'll then tighten them down with a 10-millimeter socket ratchet and extension. Reconnect the connector to the wiper motor.

Reinstall the cowl cover. Line up the metal tabs on the windshield side, snap those into place. Reinstall the hooks. If your Phillips head screws didn't round off like ours did, you can turn them with a screwdriver. However, ours are stripped, so I have to reach underneath, and turn the hook by hand, and slide the rubber under and lock it back over its tab. Reinstall any of the nine plastic clips you have. Don't worry if you're missing one or two. Ours is as well.

Reinstall your wiper arms. They are different. The one with the shorter leg here where the hinge is goes on the passenger side. Line it up to the tape mark you made. Reinstall the 15-millimeter nut. Hold it in place and use your 15-millimeter socket and ratchet to tighten it back onto the splines. Reinstall the caps on the ends of the wiper arms. Remove your tape from your windshield.

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