2011 Chevrolet Tahoe V8 6.0L Main Engine Water Pump TRQ WPA07406

Hi, I’m Mike from 1A Auto. We’ve been selling auto parts for over 30 years!

In this video, we will be removing and replacing a water pump in a 2009 Chevy Suburban. If you need this part, or other parts for your vehicle, click the link in the description, and head over to 1aauto.com. We're going to remove this cover. Just grab underneath, pull up, and then you're going to pull out. You're going to have to wiggle it a little bit, and it will come right out. That's where it's secured down, and there's clips that hold that in.

Next, we're going to remove this snorkel. We have a worm clamp right here. We're going to use an 8mm socket, an extension. Loosen that up, and then over here it's a worm clamp right here, do the same. We're going to take a trim tool, and over here where the hose is secured. We're going to separate that. We're going to remove this hose that goes to the upper valve cover. Pull that out. We're going to lift up right here, and pull towards the front of the vehicle. Then pull this off the airbox. Pull that out of your way.

Now, we're going to take the serpentine belt off. I'm going to use a 15mm wrench. You can use a serpentine belt tool, but we'll just use a wrench. You're going to put it on the adjuster. We're going to push it down, and we're going to pull the belt off over here on the idler pulley, and then loosen up on the adjuster, and pull our wrench off.

Take the belt off. Just pull it straightforward, just like that. Next, we're going to take off this radiator hose on the thermostat side. We're going to push this clamp together. I'm going to use some channel locking pliers to just grab it. They do make special pliers for this, but you can use channel locks. We're going to twist the hose back and forth. You want to make sure you have a drain bucket underneath, because coolant's going to come out. Just hold it there.

Next we'll take the heater hoses off the same way. Use our channel locks and squeeze these clamps together. You can move the clamp to the inside, and we can wiggle the holes back and forth, wiggle the hose back and forth, you pull. Same with this heater hose. I'll wiggle the hose back and forth. Twisting motion will generally break it free. Just wiggle it back and forth. It comes off.

I'll take this one off, the upper radiator hose. Squeeze with the channel locks. There is a way to lock these clamps together, but generally, when you lock them together, it's somewhat difficult to unlock them. I just loosen them up a little bit. Twist this hose back and forth, and you pull it off.

Now, we're going to pull the tensioner off. I'm going to use a 15mm socket and a ratchet. Loosen these bolts up. Pull that bolt out. I'll pull the other bolt out, and I'll pull the tensioner off. We're going to pull off the water pump bolts, there's six of them. One, two, three of under here, and then three on the other side. We're going to use a 10mm socket, an extension, and a ratchet. When you're doing this, coolant's going to start draining out from the engine. They're all loose, I can pull them out.

Now, we're going to grab the water pump with two hands and pull it towards you just like that. We can pull it out, and there's your water pump. This is our old pump. This is our new pump from 1A Auto. As you can see, it's the same design. All the hole configurations are the same, and the pulley's the same. It comes with this little protector here in case you had a mechanical fan. Our vehicle does not have a mechanical fan. As you can see, the new one comes with a new thermostat, and a new thermostat housing. Flip it over on the back where the gaskets go. The new one comes with new gaskets, so we'll put those on. The holes and everything is exactly the same as the original. Get yours at 1A Auto, and you'll be ready to rock and roll.

Before we put the water pump on, the new one, one of the old gaskets got stuck on here, so we're going to grab it with a straight blade screwdriver and just pry it off. Once you get it up a little bit, you can grab that with your hand, and pry it out. Now, I'm going to take a razor blade, and just clean this surface up a little bit. You want to be careful. You can use a scraper, or a wire brush. Just clean a little bit of gasket material right here as well. I'm just going to use the wire brush and clean this up a little bit. You can use a rag with a little bit of brake parts cleaner on and wipe it. Try to get as much of the gasket off as possible.

Here's the gaskets that go on. They're on top of each other, they're the same gasket. One's going to go on one side like that, and the other is going to go on this side like that. What I do, is I take two of the bolts, stick two of the bolts through, so that it lines them up like that. Same with this side, and then we can install the water pump. We'll slide this in carefully like this.

Line the holes up, and I have the 10mm socket and an extension in my other hand. I'll get these ones started. I'll have to get the back two started. Once they're started, just double check to make sure your gaskets have not fallen down. Ours look like they're pretty good. I can grab the other two bolts, and feed those in, down there, and down here. Then I can start snugging them down before I torque them. Now we're going to torque these down to 11 foot-pounds for the first pass, and then the second pass we're going to torque them to 22 foot-pounds. We're going to torque these on our second pass to 22 foot-pounds. That's just to spread torque out evenly, so that it seats properly. That's good, now we'll reinstall our tensioner.

Get the bolts lined up and tighten these down with our 15mm socket and ratchet. Just snug them up, and then we'll torque them. Then we're going to torque them to 37 foot-pounds. Now we're going to install the heater hoses there. I'm going to put the clamp on with my channel locks. Tighten this like that. I'm going to take the other heater hose. Put that on and remove the clamp with the channel locks like that.

Now, I'll put our lower radiator hose on, and squeeze this, and put it over the thermostat housing. Just wiggle it on, and I'll put this last hose on, slide that down, then use the channel locks to get the clamp down. We're going to start and put the belt on down at the crank pulley first. We're going to come over the water pump pulley, and it's going to go down to the power steering pump pulley. We're going to go up on the alternator, and before we put it on our idler, we're going to put it over here on our tensioner. We're going to hold it down here as we grab our tensioner with our 15 mm wrench. We're going to pry up on the tensioner, and slip the belt under the idler pulley.

Next, we'll install the intake snorkel. Slide it down. I'm going to slide it over the throttle body here, and watch this rubber grommet over here. We're going to pull up on it while we slide it back. That's in, and that's in right here. Next, we're going to come over here, pull this onto the airbox like that. Over here, there's a little retainer for the hose. Slide that in there like that. Then on the backside, this hose that connects to the upper valve cover, pop that in. Now, I'll take my 8mm socket extension and ratchet. Tighten up this worm clamp right here. Not too tight, just a little bit snug. Then same on this one, snug it up. It's good. We’re going to slide it underneath the hoses over here, the heater hoses, and then slide it back. Then once it's back all the way, there's little rubber grommets in here that line up with that ball and socket, and push down.

We'll pull off our coolant cap on our overflow tank, or coolant reservoir. Now we're going to add our coolant. You want to make sure you use a 50-50 mix of coolant to water. Check the bottle of the coolant to make sure it's not premixed. We're using a Dex-Cool coolant in this, or a GM vehicles approved coolant. As you can see, that's where the fill line is. When we start the vehicle, that is going to suck more coolant into the vehicle.

We're going to start it with the cap off, and as the vehicle runs, the coolant's going to go down. And we're going to have to top off accordingly. Now we're going to start it. As you can see, it's sucked down all the coolant out of our bottle, so we're going to add more coolant. You want to keep in mind checking the temperature while we're letting the coolant burp. You don't want to just start it and walk away. We're going to wait till the temperature gets up to about 210.

Another thing that's a good idea, is to turn the heat on. We'll turn the heat on high, all the way up, and keep checking and make sure you get heat coming out. If there's no heat, then there's not enough coolant in the system, and you need to add more coolant. I'm going to check our coolant level, and make sure it's still above that line, which is good. Then carefully you're going to grab this radiator hose, and this hose still feels cold. That means the thermostat still has not opened yet. We're going to keep letting it run until it opens.

As you can see, our vehicle's up to just about 210, which is good. Our heat is working well, and the thermostat has opened. At this point, we're just going to shut the vehicle off and let it cool down. All right, so now our engine has cooled down, and we're going to check our coolant level. It's a little bit high, what I'm going to do, is I'm going to drop it down just above where the full line is. Then I'm going to put the radiator cap on, and then we're going to go for a test drive. After we get back from about a 10 minute test drive, we will adjust accordingly. Let it cool down again before you take this off, and then you'll be good to go.

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