Replaces
Frequently bought together
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
Returns: Parts with electrical components cannot be returned once installed.
FREE Shipping is standard on Orders shipped to the lower 48 States (Contiguous United States). Standard shipping charges apply to Hawaii, Alaska and US Territories. Shipping is not available to Canada.
Expedited is available on checkout to the United States, excluding Alaska, Hawaii and US Territories as well as P.O. Boxes and APO/FPO/DPO addresses. Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
Created on:
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks!
In this video, we're going to show you how to service your rear differential fluid on this 2005 Ford F150. The items that you'll need for this are a 13mm socket and ratchet, drip pan, razor, RTV, torque wrench, four quarts of 75W-140 gear oil, and a hammer.
We come under here, there's two tags on your real differential. This tag says 75W-140 synthetic oil only, so that's telling you what oil to use. And not sure exactly what that tag is but it probably tells you about the rear end. But these are 13mm bolts. Leave two bolts at the top of the cover and then, using a flat blade screwdriver, you want to just pry open the bottom of the cover. It helps if you just hit it up into place with a hammer and you'll start to see the fluid trickle out. You want to make sure you have a drip pan underneath. Just keep hammering until when you pull back on the screwdriver it drains. When it's done draining, remove those last two bolts and then pull your cover off.
Now put some paper towels in over the gears. This will just protect them while you do the next step. Using a razor, just scrape off all the old gasket around where your cover was. When you're finished, you can remove those paper towels. At the bottom of your differential there's a little reservoir that collects sediment. Just try to get as much of that out of there as you can and then wipe down the outside of the differential.
Take your rear differential cover. We're going to use a new one that we've just painted, but you can use your old one. Then just put some RTV all the way around it. If you're using a new differential cover you most likely have a gasket, so you just put that into place and then trace around the outside of the bolt holes. If you don't have a gasket because you're using your old one you just want to make sure that besides just tracing on the outside that you also circle around each of the bolt holes with the RTV.
Now make sure that the outside of your rear differential is clean so that the gasket can seal properly. Then put it into place and replace those bolts. We'll just fast-forward as Mike replaces the rest of those and tightens then up preliminarily. Now torque each of these to 20 foot-pounds in a crossing pattern.
Now back here is your fill cap. Using a 3/8 ratchet just open up that fill cap and pull it out. It's magnetic so it will have some sediment on it. You just want to clean that off. Then, using your 75W-140 gear oil, just squirt it in. Here, we're going to add some limited slip differential additive. We'll just squirt some directly in and then we're going to take an empty bottle of gear oil and just squirt it into the empty bottle. Then fill the bottle all to the halfway mark with some regular gear oil. Then we're just going to squirt that mixture into our differential. Then top it off with some more gear oil. If it starts to trickle out because the oil's reached the bottom of that fill hole then you're all set and you can just put that cap back in and tighten it up. Then just wipe down the area and you're all set.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the transfer case shift motor on this 2005 Ford F150. It's the same part and similar process on these F150s from 2004 to 2008. The items you'll need for this are a new transfer case shift motor from 1AAuto.com, a 10 millimeter socket and ratchet, needle nose pliers, a flat blade screwdriver, a pick, and RTV.
Your transfer case shift motor is located right here. Just push the tab on this harness and disconnect it. Then, remove this 10 millimeter bolt and this 10 millimeter bolt. We'll fast forward as Mike does that. Now just pull that bracket free and pull the harness down.
Pull your harness down and this brown and black wire come from another sensor. Just note the brown one's towards the outside and black is on the inside. You need to remove these from this harness. You look in. There's this red locking clip here. Take a pair of needle nose pliers, and pull that out. Now take a little pick or a electrical screwdriver, and there's just little tabs here you have to pry up and pull on the wires. Sometimes it helps to just pull on them a little bit and make sure they're free. Pry up on the tab. Pull the wire at the same time. That comes out. Then pry up on the tab and pull the wire that comes out.
Now remove the other three 10 millimeter bolts holding your transfer case shift motor in place. Replace this lower 10 millimeter bolt just half way. Then using a rubber mallet just hit your transfer case shift motor, and that'll help break it free. Then remove that 10 millimeter bolt and pull the motor free.
Using a flat blade screwdriver, pry this bracket off your transfer case shift motor. Then clean up the area where the transfer case shift motor used to go, and replace the gasket with some RTV. You want to make sure that you trace all the way around with no gaps.
On the bottom, is the old transfer case shift motor. Above it, is the new one from 1A Auto. You can see they're identical and will fit exactly the same. Take your new transfer case shift motor and push it into place. Just line it up. Then replace this 10 millimeter bolt and the 10 millimeter bolt up here in the bracket, just to hold it in place.
Put the black one, again, on the inside. Just to push it in. You should hear it click. Then do the brown one. Then this locking clip goes in. Now, feed that bracket back up into place and then replace the two 10 millimeter bolts that went through the bracket. Now go through and tighten up all five of the 10 millimeter bolts that hold your transfer case shift motor into place. Then tighten up these two bolts on the side of your transfer case shift motor. Push the harness into that bracket. Then reconnect it.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
