1997 Ford Expedition with Cruise Control Airbag Clock Spring Ford OEM F85Z-14A664-AA

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In this video, we're going to be working with our 1998 Ford F150. We're going to show you how to remove and replace your vehicle's airbag clock spring, which is also responsible for supplying power to the horn and cruise control buttons.

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Here are the items you'll need for this repair.

Disconnect your negative battery terminal. Ours has an aftermarket clamp so we're doing this with an 11 millimeter wrench. Yours may be different. Remove the terminal and put it out of the way where there's no risk of it bouncing or ending up back connected to power.

Whenever you're working on the airbag or SRS system, it's very important to let this sit for about 30 minutes after disconnecting it to allow all the power inside of the airbag modules to drain eliminating any risk of deployment while we work on the vehicle.

Remove your ignition lock cylinder by turning the key to the Run position, and using a pick, or another small straight tool, to push the detent ball, and remove the cylinder from the column.

Remove the three Phillips head screws from the holes of the column using a Phillips head screwdriver. If you have a tilt steering column, tilt it all the way down and pop out this panel with your hands, and then slide the panel out from behind the column. Tilt your column back up, unscrew the tilt column lever, if your vehicle has a tilt column. Then separate the steering column cover and remove it.

Now we've turned our steering wheel to the three o'clock position. You'll want to use a pick to pop that cover off the back of the steering wheel. Now there's an 8mm bolt behind that cover that you'll need to remove with an 8mm socket and ratchet. Now our steering wheel is unlocked, because we have the ignition cylinder out of it, so you'll want to turn your wheel now to the nine o'clock position, where you'll find the same cover and another 8mm bolt you'll need to remove. Be careful, because sometimes when you do this those bolts will fall out of the steering wheel. You want to make sure you keep an eye on those.

Carefully pull the airbag forward. Using a pick or a small flat blade screwdriver, pry up on the connector and remove it. We then have one more here, and remove the airbag from the vehicle.

Always carry your airbag with the black trim that says Forward facing away from you, and store it with that same trim facing up, under something sturdy like a heavy bench or a toolbox that's secured to the ground, until you're ready to reinstall.

Now, I'm using my knees to hold the steering wheel in place. I'll use our T50 Torx driver and ratchet to loosen the retaining bolts on the steering wheel. You want to make sure it's facing straight ahead right about the 12 o'clock position. Remove that bolt. Unplug the cruise control switches from the clock spring if you have cruise control. Remove your steering wheel by hitting the back to loosen it up and remove it from the column.

We'll now need to disconnect these two connectors here—the brown one and the black one to the left of it. I'm going from under the dash to do this. We'll need to unplug both of them. You may need a pick or a flat blade screwdriver to lift the tabs on the brown connector. Then pop both of these connectors off of their retainers. Undo the two harness retainers. There's one down here in the column. There's also another one here just behind the ignition cylinder. We'll then pull the harness up and out of the dash. Part of this harness is this little switch here. This is what makes the truck buzz when you put your key in. You'll unhook that and then use a flat blade screwdriver to undo the three tabs securing the clock spring. Slide the clock spring off of the column.

Here we have our old clock spring that we removed from our truck and our new part from 1aauto.com. As you can see, these parts are exactly the same. We have the same clock spring, same connector for our airbag. Comes with new harness retainers. We chose to leave ours in the vehicle, but you could pop them out and just install these new clips if you chose. Also comes with two new connectors with two new retaining pins on the end. We also have the key sensor for the ignition on our new part as well. If your clock spring has gone bad, you may notice issues with your cruise control, airbag light, or your horn not functioning correctly. If that's the case, this new part from 1A Auto is going to go in direct fit just like the original equipment and fix you upright.

Obviously, our harness is already out of here, but alternatively where our new clock spring comes with new retainers, we're going to pop the old ones out. Send your harness back into the dash. Line up where it says top on the black part of the casing, and this little arrow is going to line up with that as well. Then snap the clock spring back on to the column. Remove the retaining clip by pulling it straight out. Snap your harness retainers back into place or put your harness into the old retainers depending on how you chose to do that. Reconnect the retainers for the clock spring connectors. Reconnect the electrical connectors. You do have a little bit of a choice here. This key switch is only used to create that humming noise when you leave your key in the ignition as a reminder that the key is in there. Personally, I'm not a fan of that reminder, so when I reinstall these, I tend to just tuck mine up and out of the way and eliminate that feature on the truck. If you like having that feature, simply pop off this retaining cover on your new part and snap the switch into place.

Send your clock spring wire and your airbag connector back through. Line up your wheel. This is keyed to some degree, so it'll only go on one way. Reinstall your T50 Torx bolt. Tighten down your T50 Torx bolt. Torque the steering bolt to 30 foot-pounds.

Reconnect the electrical connectors to your horn and airbag, and place the airbag back into the steering wheel. Rotate it to the three and nine o'clock positions, and reinstall the 8mm screw as well as the plastic cap.

Reinstall the two halves of the steering column cover. Reinstall the three Phillips head screws. Reinstall your ignition cylinder. Turn it back, and remove the key. Reinstall the tilt column switch by screwing it back into its opening. Reinstall the rear cover. Snap it into place.

After working on any part of airbag or SRS system, I always put the key to the Run position, which is the last key click before you would start cranking the motor over. This way, when we reconnect the battery, if there were to be some kind of fault or issue in our airbag parts or our repair, the bag would deploy while we're safely under the hood of the truck, as opposed to getting in front of the airbag with the power connected and turning the key at that point.

Reconnect the negative battery terminal. We have an aftermarket clamp on ours, so ours gets tightened with an 11mm wrench. Yours may be different.

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