1999 Ford E250 Econoline V6 4.2L with 130 Amp Alternator Option Alternator TRQ ALA94414

Brought to you 1AAuto.com. Your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Hi, I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners of 1A Auto. I want to help you save time and money repairing and maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20 plus years experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this to show you the correct way to install parts from 1AAuto.com. The right parts installed correctly, that's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video. In this video, we're going to show you alternator replacement on this '98 Explorer, same as any '97 to '01 Explorer with a V6 motor.

Tools you'll need are an 8 millimeter wrench, flat blade screwdriver, regular and small sizes, 14 and 10 millimeter socket with ratchet extension, and a 3/8 inch drive ratchet handle. Disconnect your negative battery cable with an 8 millimeter or a 5/16 wrench. You're going to want to pull your intake hose back which is fairly easy. You will loosen up this clamp here and then you'll want to unclamp your filter box. Okay, and then pull that off of your entire body. Lift this up then you can just kind of flip this up. Okay, now to remove the belt, right here is your belt tensioner and you'll want to take a 3/8 drive ratchet handle and then just square it whole right in the tensioner.

I put my wrench down in there, push down and you could see the belt loosen up and then slide it right off of the either pulley and let your wrench back up. Then you can just take the belt off, all the components, reach down and flip it off of the crank shaft and it comes up and off. Okay, with the hose out of the way and the security belt off, it's pretty easy to get in here. Just using a screwdriver to kind of widen here and disconnect that one. Use a little screwdriver and put it right in here. You disconnect that one. Okay, although this one is actually a bolt which what we'll do is we'll remove the alternator first to make it easier to get to that one.

Okay, then we'll clip here. You're going to use a screwdriver and then pry from underneath. Okay, the 13 millimeter bolts, got to use a little trick for leverage here. Got my padded ratchet, take a big wrench here and hook it on there. This makes it nice and easy to get leverage. Okay. Just to have an extension, same thing right down here. Some leverage to get it moving. Okay, bring it up. Remove that. Okay, make sure you have your battery disconnected here because if you don't, you'll get some sparks. Pry this boot up and off. I'm going to place the 10 millimeter socket here and obviously once you get this off, the alternator comes right up and out and I'm just doing this for a demonstration so there's nothing wrong with this alternator. I'm going to put it right back down and in.

Okay, note that this has little kind of geeks on it so either the harness can go up this way or down that way, you want it up. Okay, as the alternator's sitting in here with these two things here, you'll want the wire coming out this way. Oops, just make sure you put that bolt through this bracket. Reconnect your tube connections. I like to get them really tight but really tight with this wrench. Okay, now you put your belt on. Put this clip back in. Work it back. Put the belt back on, very important. Here's your belt diagram. It shows how the belt is routed. What we want to do is make a lot of loop and work it around the crack shaft here first and then we'll work around everything else.

Okay, make that loop and I want to make it tight and past the belt under the shaft for the fan a little bit just to get it to your other hand, then get it up and under the crank shaft or around the whole crank shaft. Move it on top. Take the belt up and over the water up around the car steering pump and AC compressor. Okay, over there alternator and into the tensioner. Then you're going to press on in here, make sure we wind it up good, well. Then push your tensioner down and in with a wrench and slide the belt underneath the wrangler and we're all set. Flip the other end back over, push it over here, push it back in here. There's three tabs over here, just make sure they're going to the right slots. Put it back on, make sure it's pushed on there well, and tighten your clamp back up.

Okay, make sure all these connections are still good and we're all set. We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com. Your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that here for you in the internet and in person.

Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.

Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.

In this video, we're working with our 2001 Ford Ranger 4.0-liter V6, we're going to be showing you how to remove and reinstall the alternator. If you like this information, please click "subscribe," we have a ton more information on this vehicle as well as many other makes and models. If you want this part for your vehicle, it's available from 1AAuto.com.

Here are the items you'll need for this repair will include 7-13mm sockets, 3/8 drive ratchet, Phillips screwdriver, flat blade screwdriver, hooked pick, small flat blade, and a screwdriver.

Before removing any components of the serpentine belt, be sure to check that your vehicle has a belt diagram somewhere on it. Ours is still present on the upper radiator support, but you may also find them under the hood or in your owner's manual. If you don't have one available, simply look at the belt and the path around the pulleys, and draw yourself a little diagram of where everything goes to ensure that everything is installed correctly and turns in the correct direction.

The battery is located on the front driver's side of the engine bay on this truck. We're going to use a 10 millimeter socket and ratchet, or you can use a wrench, to remove the clamp on the ground side of the battery. Loosen the clamp. Wiggle it off of the terminal. Tuck it somewhere down to the side where it won't accidentally come back and complete the circuit.

We're going to remove this cover over the throttle body. Use a small Phillip's head screwdriver to remove these two screws, and a 7 millimeter socket and ratchet for the bolt in the back. Remove the cover from the intake.

We're going to use a flat blade screwdriver to loosen these two screw type clamps on our intake tube. Then wiggle the tube off of the MAF sensor and the throttle body, and remove it from the vehicle. You'll also have to remove this breather line from the back, so we'll remove the intake tube from the throttle body, and the MAF. Pull it straight off the breather, and remove it from the vehicle.

Your serpentine belt tensioner is located on the passenger side of the engine, just below the alternator. At the bottom, there is a 3/8” square drive, which we'll use the end of a 3/8's drive ratchet for. Install it into the drive, the same way you would install a socket onto the ratchet. We'll move the tensioner counterclockwise to release tension from the belt. Unhook the belt from the alternator pulley.

We're going to use a hooked pick to pull up and release the tab from the large connector of the alternator here. Remove that. You may want to use it to hook and release the connector down here as well. This is a single wire. We'll disconnect those two parts. Remove the power wire with a 10 millimeter socket and ratchet. Remove the power wire from its stud.

Remove these three 13 millimeter bolts for the socket ratchet extension. Support the alternator while you remove the last bolt. Remove the clip that secures the wire harness. Remove the alternator from the vehicle.

Here we have our old alternator that we removed from our 2001 Ford Ranger 4.0 and our new part from 1AAuto.com. As you can see, these alternators are exactly the same, with the exception of this little extension that we're going to have to change over onto our new alternator to make it easier to access the power. We have the same mounting locations. We have the same three pin connector, as well as the same single wire exciter. They are both a 130 amp alternator, and they have the same pulley on them as well. We have to change this extension piece from our old alternator onto our new one to make it easier to get power onto the alternator.

We use a 10 millimeter socket and ratchet to remove the nut from the new part. It is very likely that this part will break. Pry it up with a flat blade screwdriver. Watch for those pieces of debris to make sure that they don't fall into the alternator. See, ours did break on the way off. Remove this red cap on this extension piece. You may need a small flat blade screwdriver. Using an 11 millimeter socket and ratchet, remove the nut. This piece simply slides out. Slides into the new alternator. Reinstall that 11 millimeter nut, and the plastic cap. Now our alternator is ready to go into our truck.

Drop the alternator back into place. Start the lower bolts here first. Remember to place the tab for the harness under the top bolt before installing. Tighten them down with a 13 millimeter socket and ratchet. Torque these bolts to 35 foot-pounds.

Reinstall the wire and the three pin connector at the top. Lay the power wire over the mounting stud. Reinstall the 10 millimeter nut. Tighten it down with a 10 millimeter socket and ratchet.

Ensure that your belt is properly routed still and that it is not fallen partially off any of the pulleys. Use your 3/8” ratchet to remove tension from the tensioner. Install your belt over the alternator and remove your ratchet.

Reinstall the breather line in both ends of the intake tube to the throttle body and the air box. Tighten down the clamps with a flat blade screwdriver. Reinstall the engine cover.

We'll tighten down the front two screws with a Phillips head screwdriver and the rear with a 7 millimeter socket. Reconnect the negative terminal. Tighten the clamp back up. 10 millimeter socket and ratchet or wrench. Ensure your connection is tight. You're ready to go.

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