Kit Includes: (2) Front Sway Bar Links (2) Front Shock Absorbers
Specification
Location
Front
TRQ suspension kits are manufactured using premium raw materials and coatings for extended service life. Each TRQ suspension component is designed to be a direct, maintenance-free replacement to the stock unit. To extend the life of your steering and suspension components, TRQ recommends replacing components in pairs, sets, or kits. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Application Specific Design: No modifications necessary
Anti-Corrosion Coated: Enhanced surface life
Pre-greased: No additional maintenance required
Kitted for Restored Performance: Improved road-feel and handling
Our direct fit gas-charged shock absorbers help restore your vehicle's handling and ride quality to just like new.
Our steering and suspension components are pre-greased and sealed for long life and do not require the extra maintenance typically required by greaseable versions.
Item Condition:New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Chromium (Hexavalent Compounds), which is known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
How To Replace Front Sway Bar Link 2006-10 Ford Explorer
How To Replace Front Shock 1998-2011 Ford Ranger
How to Replace Front Sway Bar Link 2006-10 Ford Explorer
How to Replace Front Sway Bar Link 2002-2005 Ford Explorer
How to Replace Front Sway Bar Link 1995-2001 Ford Explorer
How to Replace Front Sway Bar Link 2001-2005 Ford Explorer Sport Trac
How to Replace Front Shock Absorber 2001-2005 Ford Explorer Sport Trac
How to Replace Front Sway Bar Link 1995-2001 Ford Explorer
How to Replace Shock Absorber 2001-05 Ford Explorer Sport Trac
How to Replace Front Sway Bar Links 1998-2011 Ford Ranger
How to Replace Front Sway Bar Link 2001-2005 Ford Explorer Sport Trac
How To Replace Front Shock 1998-2011 Ford Ranger
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Tools used
14mm Wrench
Torque Wrench
16mm Wrench
Socket Driver
16mm Socket
Pry Bar
Jack Stands
19mm Socket
Ratchet
Floor Jack
3/8 Inch Impact Gun
Tools used
Torque Wrench
Socket Driver
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Ratchet
Floor Jack
3/8 Inch Impact Gun
Tools used
Hammer
Socket Extensions
Torque Wrench
17mm Wrench
Rust Penetrant
16mm Socket
17mm Socket
Jack Stands
19mm Socket
Ratchet
Floor Jack
1. Removing the Wheel
Loosen the five 19mm lug nuts
Raise and support the vehicle
Remove the lug nuts
Slide off the wheel
2. Removing the Sway Bar Link
Apply rust penetrant to the sway bar link
Attach a 17mm wrench to the top sway bar link nut
Brace the wrench against the vehicle frame
Turn the 16mm bolt at the bottom of the sway bar link to loosen the nut
Remove the 17mm nut
Tap the top of the bolt with a hammer
Remove the sway bar link bolt
Remove the sway bar link bushings, washers, and sleeve
3. Installing the Sway Bar Link
Slide a washer onto the sway bar link bolt
Slide a bushing onto the sway bar link bolt
Slide the sway bar link bolt through the control arm
Slide a bushing onto the sway bar link bolt
Slide a washer onto the sway bar link bolt
Slide the sleeve onto the sway bar link bolt
Slide a washer onto the sway bar link bolt
Slide a bushing onto the sway bar link bolt
Insert the sway bar link bolt into the sway bar
Slide a bushing onto the sway bar link bolt
Raise the suspension with a jack
Slide a washer onto the sway bar link bolt
Thread the nut onto the sway bar link
Attach a 17mm wrench to the top sway bar link nut
Counterhold the sway bar link nut with the wrench
Tighten the sway bar link bolt with a 16mm socket and ratchet
Lower the suspension by lowering the jack
4. Installing the Wheel
Slide the wheel into place
Start the five 19mm lug nuts
Lower the vehicle to the ground
Torque the lug nuts to 100 foot-pounds in a crossing pattern
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years. We're dedicated to delivering quality auto parts, expert customer service, fast and free shipping, all backed by our 100% satisfaction guarantee. Visit us at 1AAuto.com, your trusted source for quality auto parts.
In this video, we're going to be working with our 2006 Ford Explorer. We're going to show you how to remove and replace your vehicle's sway bar link in the front. If you like this video, please click subscribe. We have a ton more information on this and many other vehicles. If you need these parts for your car, you can follow the link down into the description over to 1AAuto.com. Here are the items you'll need for this repair.
Using a 19mm socket and a breaker bar, loosen the lug nuts on your tire. Raise and support your vehicle. We're doing this on a lift to make it easier to show you what's going on, but this job can be done at home on a jack and jack stands. Finish removing your lug nuts. You should be able to do this by hand at this point but you can use a ratchet if you need to. You can then remove your wheel and tire.
It may be a good idea to apply some penetrating oil to whatever parts you're going to be working with. Put a 17mm wrench on the nut on the top side of your sway bar link and brace it against the frame of the vehicle. You can then use a 16mm socket and ratchet on the bottom to loosen it. The sway bar link on these vehicles is essentially a series of bushing and washers with a sleeve all held together by one long bolt, as opposed to being a one-piece unit like some other vehicles.
You can see ours is pretty rough here, because there's usually not this much slack. That's actually what your bushing is supposed to look like on all four pieces, one on each side. You can see the old ones are worn down or cut there. It looks like they've actually fallen off over time. Once the nut's out, you can try to remove the bolt from the center of the sway bar link. This can be pretty difficult, so if it doesn't come out by hand, don't be afraid to get on there and give it a good hit with a hammer. The sway bar link will disassemble just like that when you pull it out, so just make sure you have all the old bushing material and all the old washers off of it.
Now you sort of need to build the sway bar link into the truck, so we'll start with a washer and then a bushing. We'll go up through the control arm, install a bushing with the tapered end down, followed by another washer, the sleeve, a washer with the cup end facing up, and a bushing with the tapered end facing up. We'll go through the sway bar, install another bushing. You may need to use a screw jack or floor jack to jack up the control arm to get enough slack on that bolt to install the sway bar link. Then install the washer and a nut and tighten your new hardware down. You'll want a 17mm wrench on the nut and a 16mm socket and ratchet on the bolt end. Just tighten that up until it compresses the bushings so you know that everything's nice and tight and there's no slop in there to make any noise when you go over bumps. Once that's down tight, you can lower the weight off of the screw jack or floor jack.
Reinstall the wheel and tire onto your hub. It's easiest to put a lug nut inside of the 19mm socket to start it onto the studs. Get all five of these down as tight as you can by hand, and then we'll torque the wheel once there's some weight on it. Lower the vehicle back down and put partial weight onto the wheel and tire. This means that you may have your jack or lift under the vehicle. Get the tire to touch and let the vehicle come down some without allowing it completely off of the lift or jack. Torque your lug nuts to 100 foot-pounds in a cross pattern.
Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.
Tools used
Cutoff Wheel
Torque Wrench
14mm Socket
Pry Bar
19mm Socket
Pliers
Tools used
Torque Wrench
Gloves
17mm Wrench
16mm Socket
Pry Bar
Wheel Chocks
19mm Socket
Floor Jack
Safety Glasses
Tools used
Torque Wrench
16mm Wrench
Hammer
Rust Penetrant
16mm Socket
18mm Wrench
Pry Bar
18mm Socket
19mm Socket
3/8 Inch Drive Ratchet
Safety Glasses
1/4 Inch Ratchet
Locking Pliers
Gloves
Large Locking Pliers
Tools used
14mm Wrench
13mm Socket
Torque Wrench
14mm Socket
Pry Bar
19mm Socket
3/8 Inch Drive Ratchet
Safety Glasses
1/4 Inch Ratchet
Locking Pliers
Gloves
Floor Jack
13mm Wrench
Tools used
Torque Wrench
Gloves
17mm Wrench
16mm Socket
Pry Bar
Wheel Chocks
19mm Socket
Floor Jack
Safety Glasses
Tools used
14mm Wrench
14mm Socket
Rust Penetrant
10mm Wrench
10mm Socket
Ratchet
1. Removing the Front Shock
Spray the top of the shock with rust penetrant
Clip a par of locking pliers to the shaft
Remove the 14mm nut, washer, and bushing from the top of the shock
Remove the two 10mm nuts from the lower part of the shock
Pull the shock up and out
2. Installing the New Front Shock
Insert a washer and a bushing onto the top of the strut
Insert the strut into place
Tighten the two 10mm nuts to the lower part of the shock
Tighten the 14mm nut to the top of the strut
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Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you front shock replacement on this Ford Explorer Sport Trac. It's the same for the Sport Trac as well as a lot of Explorers, Mountaineers, and Rangers. We show you the left side, but the right side's the same procedure. You'll need new front shocks from 1AAuto.com, penetrating oil, 10 to 14 millimeter wrenches and sockets and ratchets, and you may need a reciprocating saw if your shock is in rough shape, although we avoid using it in this video.
Okay, we were checking some other things on the suspension of our truck. As we come under here, if you look at the shock, you can see it's got some oil down below that section, and that is a sign that your shock is either bad or it's wearing out and will soon be bad. To replace it, we're going to start spraying down the top of the shock there. We can see it's in pretty good shape. If yours was pretty rusty or old, you may want to use a reciprocating saw and just cut the bolt and the top of that shaft right off. It can be a lot easier sometimes but, again, ours look to be in pretty good shape, so we'll lock a set of pliers onto the top to hold the shaft from spinning. Then it's a 14mm bolt on this shock. It could be different on yours. Remove that nut. Once it starts going, we'll just fast-forward here. Once we get to a certain point we can take the lock pliers off and then the nut comes off the rest of the way. Also remove the top washer and bushing.
Underneath the shock's held on by two bolts. I have it up on a lift just to make it easier to show you, but the two bolts you can see here. I'm going to spray them down a little bit on the bottom, and then you need to hold them on the top as well see one up there. I'm using a wrench to put it on the bolt at the top and then a socket and ratchet with an extension to remove the nut on the bottom. Once you have both nuts off, you can pull one of the bolts out pretty easy, but the other one kind of stays in there. You have to force the shock up, compress it a little bit, and then pull it back and out. Take your new shock from 1A Auto, you want to put a washer on top first, and then one of the rubber cushions. Then put the shock up into place. You're going to have to kind of force it up in, compress it some once you put it up into, obviously where it goes, the shock mount at the top, you'll have to force it up and then into the mount at the bottom.
Once you have it in place, you're going to start the nuts and bolts on. On some shock designs it may be good to put a bolt into place first. If the shock kind of has an open end to the bolts and sometimes if the shock has a closed hole for the bolts, you'll want to put a bolt into the shock first and then install it into the car. Now tighten up both lower bolts; again, you're going to want to have a wrench at the top, hold the wrench, and then tighten up the nuts nice and firm. Don't over-tighten them; you don't want to break the bolts. Back up top, you want to make sure that the lower bushing's lined up in the center of the hole. Put the upper bushing on and then the washer and then thread the nut on. We'll fast-forward as I tighten up that nut. You want to tighten the nut until those two bushings compress and are basically the same diameter as the washer. You can see that they're a smaller diameter than the washer now. You compress them down and they kind of get basically smooshed out until they're the same diameter as the washer.
The particular shocks I'm installing come with a second nut that goes on. You tighten it down onto the other one to lock them in place. Here I'm just putting an adjustable wrench on the bottom one and then tightening up the top one down onto it. Repeat everything for the other side.
Thanks for tuning in. We hope this video helped you out. Next time you need parts for your car, please visit 1AAuto.com. Also check out our other helpful "how to" as well as diagnoses videos.
Thanks for tuning in. We hope this video helped you out. Next time you need parts for your car, please visit 1AAuto.com. Also check out our other helpful how-to and diagnosis videos.
Tools used
Gloves
16mm Wrench
16mm Socket
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Ratchet
Floor Jack
Safety Glasses
Tools used
Torque Wrench
16mm Wrench
Hammer
Rust Penetrant
16mm Socket
18mm Wrench
Pry Bar
18mm Socket
19mm Socket
3/8 Inch Drive Ratchet
Safety Glasses
1/4 Inch Ratchet
Locking Pliers
Gloves
Large Locking Pliers
Tools used
Torque Wrench
Socket Driver
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Ratchet
Floor Jack
3/8 Inch Impact Gun
PSA43363
In Stock
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