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Frequently bought together
Part Details
About TRQ:
TRQ is a trusted brand dedicated to making every repair a success story by combining premium parts with easy installation. Each TRQ part is engineered by a team of automotive experts to meet or exceed OEM standards, delivering enhanced performance and maximum longevity. With rigorous in-house testing, the brand ensures superior fit and function across every product line. TRQ also provides customers with best-in-class, step-by-step installation videos—so you can complete repairs with confidence, whether you're a first-time DIYer or an industry professional.
Product Features
TRQ brake pads are manufactured using premium raw materials and design standards to restore original performance. TRQ brake pads are positive molded and utilize a multi-layer shim for enhanced performance and service life. TRQ’s combination of materials and design ensures a low dust and low noise braking experience. TRQ recommends replacing your brake rotors when you replace your brake pads to ensure even wear of components and improved braking comfort. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Hi, I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners of 1A Auto. I want to help you save time and money repairing or maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20 plus years experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this to show you the correct way to install parts from 1AAuto.com. The right parts installed correctly, that's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the front breaks on this 2006 Malibu. Procedures are the same for a few other GM Vehicles as well, the Malibu's, G5, Cobalt, HHR, Solstice and Saturn Sky as well as others. Tools you'll need are jack and jack stands, 14, 15, and 19mm sockets and that could vary by car. Ratchet with a pipe or breaker bar for some extra leverage, a flat blade screw driver, a large C-clamp, wire brush and a torque wrench. Start out by using a 19mm socket or wrench and loosen the plastic covers and then remove the wheel cover. If you don't have the benefit of air tools, you want to loosen the lug nuts up while it's on the ground then raise and support your vehicle and then remove the lug nuts on the wheel. Grab hold of the steering knuckle and turn it to make it easier to reach the back of the caliper. Now, we want to inspect the condition of the breaks. The rotors are a little crusty. As far as rust, that's not always a bad thing. You want to just take your finger and run up and down the surface of the rotor. I can feel some pretty big ridges here on the edges which indicates that this may be worn down. Also, our pads, it's hard to see but if we look in here, there's very little pad life left. You can actually tell here better. This is the metal or the pad. It's almost right up against the rotor, so this needs new front brakes. First thing we're going to do is remove these two bolts here. These two bolts are 14mm and they should come off pretty easy. I'm just going to speed it up as I remove those two bolts.
Now, this should come off, but it's pretty easy on the ridges here. What you want to do is take a good size screw driver and try out with this hold and that loosens up the caliper and the caliper comes right off, put it right there for an hour and you can just try out your pads. As you can see, here's my pad, they actually is a little wear indicator. It says there's a little bit of life left, but I'd feel better replacing these. Here's my inner pad as well. Now, we need to remove this caliper bracket. We'll remove two 15mm bolts here and here. These are going to be somewhat tighter so I'm going to use my ratchet. If you have a breaker bar, that's the best thing or use a piece of pipe, put it on your ratchet, little extra leverage and it should be apart pretty easily. We'll pop one get it started. And I'm just going to speed it up again here as I remove those bolts. I found that once I turned them, probably three or four turns, they actually came out by hand. Take the rotor, pull it right off. New rotor from 1A Auto. Put it on, take a lug nut. Kind of hold it into place here. We'll cut this off. Now, I have to reset. This piston is working its way out of the caliper, so I'm just going to take my old pad like that and take a big C-clamp and make sure we're not pressing anything lighter on the back there. I'm taking up the C-clamp, the piston goes back in to the caliper. This rubber seal kind of pops out and you just work it right back in there with your fingers. Before we put this caliper bracket, two things, I want to make sure these are sliding in and out nice and freely. Then you also want to take a wire brush and just clean out these stainless steel slide. Now, take your bracket and it goes basically between the knuckle and the disk. Put your bolt in, it will find its way. This bolt, you want to tighten up to 85 foot pounds.
New pads from 1A Auto, quite a bit thicker than what we took off there and the rear one has this rear tab. You want to make sure that's on the upside, so put that one in the back. That little tab is what makes that constant squeaking noise as your breaks wear down when they get low. Put this one up front. You want to make sure that your slides are pushed in here. Bring your caliper down right on top. Two bolts. These two bolts, you want to take into 35 foot pounds. We have the wheel back in place, then you put the lug nuts on by hand and then I'm just using my impact wrench to just tighten them up preliminary. Now with the vehicle on the ground, torque the lug nuts to 100 pounds using a star pattern. Now, put your wheel cover back on. There is a hole for the valve stem, then use a socket to tighten up the retainers. Last but certainly not the least, before you drive your vehicle, make sure you pump the breaks a bunch of times to get the pedal to feel nice and firm. You have to reset those caliper pistons, then do stops from five and ten miles an hour before you road test the vehicle.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts, and the best service on the Internet. Hi, I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners of 1AAtuo. I want to help you save time and money repairing and maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20 plus years experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this to show you the correct way to install parts from 1AAuto.com. The right parts, installed correctly. That's' going to save you time and money. Thank you, and enjoy the video.
In this video we are going to show you how remove and replace the front brakes on this 2004 Trailblazer, same as any '02-'09 Trailblazer, as well as the other GM SUVs Envoy, Bravada, Rainier, Saab 97X, and Isuzu Ascender. The extended vehicles have a little bit different brakes, but the procedure is basically the same. Tools you'll need for this job are 13, 18, and 19mm sockets or wrenches, a breaker bar or pipe if you need some extra leverage. On this vehicle actually I actually didn't even need either one of those, but maybe you do if your vehicle is a little stubborn coming apart, a flat blade screwdriver, wire brush, a large C-clamp, and a torque wrench. You're going to start by prying your cap off. That's your 19mm. If you don't have air tools, you'll want to start with the wheel on the ground. Loosen the lug nuts, and then raise it. Support it with jack stands, and then remove the wheel and tire. And I'll just fast forward taking off the rest of those lug nuts, and then removing the wheel and tire. Now either pull, or using the steering wheel turn your wheel so you have easy access to the back of the brake calipers. Now we can check the condition of the brakes.
When I spin this you'll see the rotor move. Okay, so then right to the right there is actually your pad. And you can see there's not that much life left and not a whole lot on the outside either. So, we're going to remove the caliper, which is removing a bolt up here, and a bolt down here. And then after that, we're going to remove the caliper bracket, which is 2 large bolts-18mm one here, and one up here. Okay the bolts go in the caliper relatively easy, 13mm. Use a small wrench. And we'll just speed it up here as I remove those 2 bolts. Okay, the caliper comes right off, and we'll set it over here. Okay, these are 18mm bolts. For the caliper bracket you're going to want a breaker bar, which is a bar to give you extra leverage. Okay, they actually come apart pretty easy. If you don't have a breaker bar like this-you just have a ratchet-you can put a piece of pipe on. Kind of gives you extra leverage. And pull nice and easy on the pipe until they come loose. Or take it all the way off. You can take your pads off. Use a screwdriver. It should pretty easily pry out. Okay, you can see this one. That little line down the middle is the wear indicator, and it's actually just about at the end of it's life.
And we'll fast forward again as we remove those 2 18mm bolts that hold that caliper bracket. Okay, once that comes off then your disc should just come off. If your discs don't come off, there are threaded bolts. And you can use some bolts. What you do is you put the bolts in there, and the bolts press against the hub to push them out. Okay, and these rotors-pretty crusty looking-so I am going to replace them. Your disc from 1A Auto goes right on. You want to make sure you don't put these holes where this is, because what those holes are meant to do is if this were stuck, you would use bolts to push it off. Now I can just put a lug nut on just to hold the rotor in place. Okay, before we put our bracket on, just use a wire brush and clean out these stainless steel slides a little bit. Okay, make sure that these slides are nice and free, which they are on this. And put this on. Put the bolt through the steering knuckle first and into the bracket. Torque these to 90 foot-pounds as well. Nice new set of brake pads go right in. Now you want to force these 2 pistons back down into the caliper. So I just put my old brake shoe right in there. Okay and slowly force them back in with a C-clamp. Okay, use some break parts cleaner or mineral spirits. Just get off any dirt that may be on there. Now take a caliper and pull those. Slide it out a little bit, pull it down. Okay, these two bolts, 25 foot-pounds. Okay, fast forward here as I remove that lug nut that I used to hold the disc in place. I put the tire back on. Start all the lug nuts by hand first, and then I'll tighten them up preliminarily with my wrench and torque them when it's back on the ground. And with the tire back on the ground, I'm going to torque the lug nuts to between 100 and 120 foot pounds, kind of just using just a crossing pattern. Very important, after doing break work, always pump your brakes many times. And then before you do a road test make sure the brakes hold the vehicle in gear, and then do a stop from 5 miles an hour and 10 miles an hour before hitting the brakes.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com , your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll free 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
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