Replaces
Part Details
Our direct fit gas-charged shock absorbers help restore your vehicle's handling and ride quality to just like new.
Item Condition:
New
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WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Chromium (Hexavalent Compounds), which is known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
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This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and the next time you need a part for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video we're going to show you front strut replacement on this 2005 Hyundai Elantra. Pretty much the same as any 2000 to 2006. We show you the front right or passenger's side. Same procedure for the left, or the driver's side. We're showing you, in particular, a loaded strut, which is the strut with the spring assembly. Remove and re-install. You'll need jack and jack stands, 10, 12, 14, 17 and 22 millimeter sockets I just have 10 through 22 available. There might be a couple different size bolts on your vehicle. You'll need a ratchet, and a breaker bar or a pipe for some extra leverage, as some of the bolts tend to be a little stuck on there.
Locate your brake line clip that holds your brake line up against the strut. It's a 12 millimeter bolt. We're going to remove that. On this side the strut is a 10 millimeter bolt that holds on your ABS sensor. You're going to want to remove that as well. Your two strut bolts are 17 millimeters. I'm going to use a wrench on one end and a breaker bar on the other. You can see it takes the breaker bar and pipe just to get some extra leverage to get those broken free, but then they come out pretty easy after that so we'll fast-forward through it. If the strut is held in by three 14 millimeter nuts, located triangle up top in your strut tower, you'll need a 14 millimeter to remove them. Again, we'll fast-forward here a little bit. You can see that those bolts should come off pretty easily. I'm going to support the strut as I take off the last nut, so it doesn't fall out. Pulling the strut out to the front. Putting the strut back in. Going in from the front to the back. See if you can make sure that I don't hitch my brake line or ABS line. When I've got it somewhat close, I'm going to feed up the screws, the nuts and the strut plate, and they only go in one way, so you'll have to turn it until you get the match. I'm going to start the nuts to hold it in place. Re-insert the spindle into the lower strut.
Raise your control arm. Feel both holes line up. Fast-forward here as we tighten up those nuts and bolts preliminarily. I'm going to torque these bolts and nuts to 100 foot-pounds. Re-securing the brake line with the bolt. It's a 12 millimeter one. The ABS sensor. It's the 10 millimeter on the other side. Speed up as we tighten up the top bolts in between 25 and 30 foot-pounds. We'll keep the speed going as we put the wheel and tire back up in place. Hubcap and lug nuts. Tighten them preliminarily. With the car back on the ground, with a little bit of pressure on it, we'll wait on it. I'm going to use the 22 and a torque wrench that I've set to 100 foot-pounds and torque them. Torque them in a star pattern.
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