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This Gates timing belt component kit, tensioner with water pump is just what you need to keep your vehicle in good running order.
Our timing belt sets come from a company that is committed to supplying components that are engineered and manufactured under strict quality control procedures. They are leaders in timing component quality which provides you with the highest quality parts available on the market.
This high quality, water pump and timing belt kit, contains the following pieces and has the following specifications:
Most car manufacturers recommend changing your timing belt between 50,000 and 70,000 miles (consult your owner's manual to see what your specific manufacturer suggests).
These parts are authentic Gates brand products that are supplied and packaged by Gates. Some of the components included in this kit may be sourced by Gates from other high quality suppliers such as Aisin, GMB, Koyo & other OEM suppliers. These parts are subjected to the very same testing and quality standards as all Gates products.
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WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including 1,3-Butadiene, which is known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
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How to Replace Timing Belt and Water Pump on 1999-2006 Hyundai Elantra Part 1
Created on: 2013-07-21
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
This is part one of a two part video. We basically take the timing belt off. This is a 2005 Hyundai Elantra and this procedure is the same for any '99 to '06 Elantra that has the 2.0 liter, single overhead cam, four cylinder. Tools you'll need are floor jack and jack stands, and 8mm to 21mm sockets. You'll need an impact wrench and sockets, and a two jaw gear puller. A flashlight will help and you'll need a breaker bar or pipe for some extra leverage.
Using a 10mm socket wrench, remove the negative from the battery. Set that aside.
Start by removing one of the front wheels and if you don't have the benefits of air tools, you'll want to start with the vehicle on the ground, loosen the lug nuts then jack up and secure the vehicle on jack stands and remove the lug nuts, the wheel cover and wheel and tire.
You're going to remove the splash shield that's behind the passenger's side tire. Two 10mm bolts hold it in place. Just ignore the fact that in here the tire is still on there. I just use some different footage. I've located the 12mm bolt that holds the adjuster on the alternator. I'm going to slack off that. I'm using a pipe for extra leverage. I've located the lower nut for the alternator right here, right next to the oil filter. Use my 12mm and my pipe for extra leverage. I'm taking the tension off the adjuster with a 12mm wrench. With my tensioner loose, I can push the alternator forward and sneak the belt off.
I've located the bolt for the power steering pump; it's a 14mm. Use a wrench and you can always use the open wrench and break it free. I located the lower power steering bolt and I'm going to use a 14mm socket with an extension to get to this and, like the upper one, just loosen it up. You'll see, now, that the pump is loose. I'm going to walk the belt off.
Locate your A/C belt tensioner pulley and the 12mm adjuster right here. You want to loosen this up. Now go ahead and loosen up this 14mm bolt in the center of the pulley. Go ahead and loosen it up until you got enough room to get your belt off.
I've got a 22mm socket and impact wrench. I'm going to use it to take off the crank pulley. I'm using a two jaw puller and you can see that I put the bolt back in without the washer so that the pulley itself will slide over the bolt as I screw this on.
Take the shield off. Behind the crank pulley, there are two more 10mm bolts for the lower timing cover.
We've got the car support with the lift and you can do it with jack stands and then we're going to have to support the engine because we're going to remove the motor mount. Get the jack and the wood to contact the engine and then give it one more pump and that should be enough just to hold it up. Locate your three upper motor bolts and nuts. It's actually two nuts and a bolt. It's a 14mm in terms of those. We'll fast forward here as we remove those nuts and bolts. Now we're just loosening up that tensioner bolt more.
I'm removing the Phillips head screw that holds the power steering reservoir. Lift it up, slide it out of the way. Locate this 10mm here that's on the bottom of the power steering reservoir clamp and remove that. You've got one, two, three 14mm bolts. We'll fast forward here as we remove those three bolts. Now, with a 17mm socket, I'm going to take the nut off the top of the motor mount. Now, I can pull the engine motor and bracket off and slide the engine mount out of the way. Locate the 14mm bolt that holds our bracket in place. Speed up as here we remove that 14mm bolt and the bracket. Two 10mm bolts hold on this bracket. Speed up as we remove that bracket. You're going to find that six 10mm bolts that hold onto your timing cover: one, two, three, four, five, six. We'll speed up here. Use a 10mm socket with a ratchet to remove those bolts that hold the timing cover. Now, we're going to remove the lower timing chain cover and there's one bolt and sorry we didn't get a better picture of this but there's one bolt towards the rear of the engine that you can get to. We're just using a 10mm socket and ratchet to remove that.
We've jacked up the engine just a little bit more to get access to the four bolts that hold the water pump fully on and I temporarily put the belt back on here. All right so I've got Mike holding the belt and I'm going to quickly turn my wrench. Just have a helper hold the belt, which holds that pulley in position and you should be able to loosen up the four bolts that hold that water pump pulley on, remove the bolts and then remove that pulley. I'm unbolting the last 10mm timing cover bolt. It's right underneath the water pump. I'm sliding the lower timing cover off. Pull it out from below.
In order to line up my cams, I'm going to put the bolt back in the crank so that I can put my 22mm socket in and turn it to where my marks line up. The two marks that we're going to want to line up are . one is on the gear here on the crankshaft and the other is on the engine block itself so when we spin it clockwise, those are going to have to match up. At the same time that the crank marks line up, we're going to have to mark up the little hole here on the cam with the cam carrier mark in red there. It's a little hard to see. We couldn't get the lighting quite right but if you shine a light through that small hole in the cam gear it should come out right on that red mark. Then there's the white dot which I really couldn't get a good angle on. There's a white dot on the gear on the crank and there's also a white dot right on the engine itself and those should line up.
I've got a 14mm socket on the belt tensioner, I'm just going to loosen it. I'm going to remove the idler, which is down in here. I'm just going to fast forward it here as we undo the bolt that holds that idler pulley in.With these out of the way, we can slip the belt right off and take it out. That's as good a place as any to stop part one of the video and then in part two we'll put the timing belt back on and put everything back together.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
This is a second part of a two part series. In the first part, we took basically the front of the engine apart and removed the timing belt. In this one we're going to show you how to change the water pump, and then, put the timing belt back on, and put everything back together. The first set of tools are basically the same. You will need a 5mm Allen wrench, a razor blade and holder to clean off the gasket area for the water pump, a torque wrench, as well as what I didn't mention here was a catch pan for catching the coolant from the engine.
With these out of the way, you can slip the belt right off and out. Locate the drain plug on the radiator, right here. It's red. Remove your radiator cap. Unscrew your drain plug. Have your bucket there to catch it. There's an 8mm Allen bolt right in there and that's right below the water pump and if you remove that and have a container underneath it'll drain out your coolant to below the water pump level. In this case the bolt is too rusted in there.
We couldn't remove it so we're just going to knock the water pump off, and let it drain into the pan that way. Locate your two 12 mm bolts that hold the bracket to the water pump and to the alternator and power steering bracket and remove those. There are two more 12mm bolts that hold that bracket that are in behind where that power steering pulley is. We'll speed up, here, as we remove those bolts. You can see it's a matter of using different size extensions to get to the bolts. Once you loosen up one of them, the power steering pump can be moved, slid up a little bit out of the way to get to the other one. Locate your three bolts that are remaining holding in your water pump and those are 12 mm. We'll fast forward here as we remove those last three. So, that's seven bolts, in all, that hold that water pump in. Use a hammer to tap on the water pump to break it free. You hear that we broke it free. The water came out because we weren't able to drain from the plug beforehand. We have the catch pan in there to get as much of the water as possible. Grab the water pump and pull it out. You see, in the old pump, some of the gasket stayed with the pump. The other part of it is on the block and we're going to clean that up with a straight blade razor. Be sure to clean all of the gasket material off as well as you can. The better you clean it off the better it will seal when you put it back together.
We've got the old water pump and the new part. We've used a little spray adhesive on the gasket to hold it here in place while we put it back in. We'll speed up, here. Basically, Don just puts it down into place and then gets all the bolts started in by hand first, and then tightens them up. When you tighten these up, you should tighten them to between about 17 and 19 foot-pounds.
I have the old idler here. I've got the new one here and you can see they're the exact same and it's going to go in just the way it came out. We'll speed up here as we put the bolt in place for that idler pulley and then tighten it up. This should be tightened up between 25 and 30 foot-pounds.
The old and the new tensioners look exactly the same and they're going to go on the same way. I'm just leaving that loose for now.
Make sure your engine is in the right position. Shine a light directly at the front pulley. The light should go right through that hole and light up the red mark behind it. Then down, a little hard to see, but the white mark that's on your crank pulley should line up with the white mark that's on the block of the engine. Put the new belt down inside. When you've got it on, make sure that the teeth all line up on the belt and sprocket for the cam and for the crankshaft. Recheck to make sure that your timing marks are lined up. We're going to take the 5mm Allen wrench that we have, put in the tensioner, and press on it until the belt is firm and then tighten back up your 14mm. Torque your tensioner bolt to 38 foot-pounds.
Put your lower timing cover back on. I'm feeding the lower timing cover up and I'm keeping it to the right or to the front of the engine with the water pump inside of it at this point. Then I'm going to slide it over the water pump. After doing that, I'm going to feed it underneath the engine mount bracket and the idler pulley, the idler tensioner. It may require a little force. You can see right here this is where it hangs up. I'm just going to give it a little push and it goes right in. Fast forward as Don goes from the bottom and the top both to put the bolts on for that lower timing chain cover. Install the upper timing cover. We'll fast forward here some as we start the bolts in. Don't forget that there's a bracket that goes on the rear part of that timing chain cover. Make sure you put that in place and bolt it in place. We'll fast forward again here as we put the rest of those bolts in. Tighten them up nice and firm at probably about 15 or 16 foot-pounds. I'm putting the bracket back on, that goes to your engine mount.
I'm reinstalling the pulleys for the water pump and I want to put the dish side in, small one on first. Do the same thing with the big one. Put the dish side in. Again, we'll fast forward as we get those bolts started in and then we'll do the same thing we did to take it out. I'll hold the belt on the water pump while Don tightens each bolt. Again, you do have to have the engine lifted up a little bit in order to access this.
We're putting the motor mount back in. As you can see, we let the engine down a little bit to line things up. I'll fast forward it, here, as we just start all the bolts by hand, get everything lined up, and then start tightening them up. Once you get them all started, you can let the engine down back into place and then tighten everything up nice and firm.
Put the bolt back in the power steering reservoir and then the retaining screw. I'm going to put the washer and pulley back on. It's only going to go one way because it's keyed. Put the first in your pulley. Tighten it with my impact gun slowly. I'm putting the splash shield back up. You feed it from back to front, the easiest way to get it in, and secure it with your two bolts. Go ahead and feed the belt back up over the A/C compressor. Make sure it's on there correctly and pull it over the crank and feed it over the tensioner. Once I know everything's okay there, I can tighten up the tensioner. Checking the tension on the belt, we want it to be tight but have a little bit of flex. You should be able to move the belt up and down about 1/8th of an inch once it's tight. That's all set. Tighten up the 14mm on the end of the pulley.
Put the alternator belt back up and get it on the top pulley first and around the alternator and around the crank. I'm going to fast forward here slightly. The belt's back on and now we're retightening that tensioner. You basically want to tighten it up until you can grab the belt between the pulleys and you should be able to move the belt up and down between 1/8th and 1/4 of an inch, actually closer to 1/8th of an inch. Once it's that tight, then you can use your 12 mm and tighten the bolt that's on the back of the tensioner that goes into the alternator.
I'm tightening up the lower nut on the alternator. I'm reconnecting the battery. Speed it up here as we refill the radiator. Refill the radiator to about within an inch of the top and then fill just using the regular coolant fill. Drive your car a little bit and check the fluid the first few times you drive it.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
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