Replaces
Frequently bought together
TRQ ignition coils will have your engine running like new. TRQ ignition coils are manufactured to precise specifications using premium raw materials to optimize each vehicle's ignition system. To ensure peak performance, TRQ recommends replacing ignition coils in sets to prevent electrical output imbalances. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
Returns: Parts with electrical components cannot be returned once installed.
FREE Shipping is standard on Orders shipped to the lower 48 States (Contiguous United States). Standard shipping charges apply to Hawaii, Alaska and US Territories. Shipping is not available to Canada.
Expedited is available on checkout to the United States, excluding Alaska, Hawaii and US Territories as well as P.O. Boxes and APO/FPO/DPO addresses. Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
Created on:
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
This is part two of performing an ignition system tune up on this 1986 Camaro Iroc-Z, pretty much the same as any '82 to '92 Camaro or Firebird with either a 305 or 350 V8. Once again, the tools you'll need are tape and marker, jack and jack stands, T20 Torx driver, 1/4 inch socket with ratchet and extensions and small flat blade screwdriver.
We had left off part one and we had put the coil back on and the cover. Now we're just going to take the new bolts that come with the distributor cap and force them into the cap and thread them in. Once you do that they won't fall out, they are just in there, so that when you put the cap in, it's much easier that you don't want to try and thread these while you are underneath the hood.
Now, our cap has a little guide tooth right here so it will only go onto the distributor correctly one way. Now we're going to install the cap onto the vehicle. Just basically start it in the same position that we know that all the connectors were over towards the driver's side, put it down in and make sure you don't pinch any wires between the cap and distributor housing. Then, press it down and try and spin it back and forth and that guide tab and groove will come together. I'm going to fast forward here as, first, I start all those 1/4 inch bolts and with a two inch extension, then, tighten them up. When you tighten them, you want to be very careful, you want to make them snug, but you don't want to over tighten them, which could crack the cap and then cause running problems. Now I'll just switch over to the longer extension and do that bolt near the injection. Now here, it's a little hard to see but I am plugging leads back in. You want to first plug the black lead, which is the dual prong that goes towards the inside of the distributor cap, plug that in, and then you plug in the other two leads. On this vehicle, the darker lead goes towards the front and then the lighter lead goes towards the back.
Now, what I've done is, I've taken and laid out my distributor cap with my old wires still on it. You can see I've got this one labeled eight, so I matched up the wire the same length, I label it down near the engine side as number eight and I did that for all the wires. The reason I label it down near the engine side is because you're going to stuff those down through the engine and then get underneath and you want to be able to see the labels clearly. You'll notice I also marked both sides. For example, this is sitting pretty much the way it is in the car. I'll do this one first, which is right next to where everything plugs into the coil. So this is number two. So I'll just take number two and I'll plug it into the same position here. I actually have it around back. It's going to want to go around front here. Then, number two comes around here, and just keep repeating that. This is number seven, on the other side of the coil input. Then I'll just repeat that for all of ours. Rather than watching me route them, I'm just going to do a series of still photos here to show you how to route the wires correctly. In this photo, the yellow arrow is pointing to the number eight wire. This is this passenger's side of the motor so that wire just runs down by itself, the back of the engine and then hooks to the number eight spark plug. Then for the two red arrows, the upper one just shows you where the route, the lower one is another clip that attaches to the engine and then those three wires go down and go to their respective cylinders. Now, here, in this video, see the yellow wire. This is just the driver's side and right above there, I believe is the brake master cylinder. So all four wires just go down the back of the engine and between the two wiring harnesses. Now, looking from below, you can see on the bottom right hand corner, that's the oil filter and there is the clip that hooks onto a little bracket on the engine, it holds all four wires as they come down. You can see the red arrow points to the number seven wire, it goes right to its plug there and then the yellow arrow points to that clip. The number seven wire is hooked up to its spark plug and then the three other wires continue down and they hook into a clip that's on the side of the engine, that's noted by that red arrow right there. In this shot, we're looking at the passenger's side from the front of the car. We're looking up at the number two spark plug, noted by the red arrow. Then the green arrow is pointing actually to the number four wire and what that wire does is it comes forward and then loops around and back to the spark plug.
Now, we'll speed through just putting that cover back over the distributor, with the three T20 Torx screws.
Now, reconnect the battery.
Now, we'll do a little test, start the engine up. It ran a little rough at first probably more due to the fuel system but everything seems to be working well.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners of 1A Auto. I want to help you save time and money repairing or maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20-plus years experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this to show you the correct way to install parts from 1AAuto.com. The right parts installed correctly: that's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.
This is video one of two, replacing the distributor cap, coil and rotor as well as the spark plug wires on this '86 Camaro Iroc-Z, procedure is basically the same for any '82 to '92 Camaro or Firebird with the 305 or the 350 V8 and I also recommend that you replace the spark plugs at the same time. To see spark plug replacement, check out our other videos
You will need a tape and a marker, jack and jack stands because you will want to get and remove the wires from the plugs from underneath, T20 Torx driver, 1/4 inch socket with ratchet extension and a small flat blade screwdriver. First thing you're going to want to do is to disconnect your battery. You'll need an 8mm wrench as most cars have side post terminals. The first step here is we put tape on all of our wires and we're going to label our wires. The reason we want to do that is so that when we take the cap and the wires off, we're going to take them off all at once. We can then take the new cap and put wires on it that are the same length and label them as well so that we can reroute the wires to the right place. The way a V8 engine works is on the left side or the driver's side, it's cylinders one, three, five and seven; and on the right side, two is at the front, then four, six and eight. All the cylinders have a number.
What we'll do is we'll go down here, we'll feel where the first wire comes out and then we'll carefully trace it back and it's this wire here, that's a number two. Then we'll go to the second wire and carefully trace it back. It's this middle one, so that's four. Then continue, so the third wire is going to be six on this side and the fourth wire will be eight. Then we'll label the other side one, three and five. Seven on this vehicle routes in behind the engine so we'll just leave that one unmarked, knowing it's seven.
Now you want to go up underneath and disconnect your wires by twisting the boots a little bit and then pulling them off. Okay, we're just going to hit fast forward here as I remove the plug wires from the plugs and if your stomach is a little queasy, you might want to not look as I just move the camera around for different angles so you can see the wires and stuff.
There are a few holders, just use a flat blade screwdriver to pry one end and pull the wires out, and set those aside. There's another one right here. Okay and just fast forward again, pull those keepers out then just pull the wires up and free of any components of the engine so that when you lift the distributor cap off with the wires it will come right out. Same thing on the other side. One note, the wires were routed totally incorrectly on this engine on the driver's side, they should go down behind the engine.
Now you want a T20 Torx driver and there's three screws to remove the cover over your distributor. At this point if you're just replacing your wires, what I prefer to do for one thing I prefer to replace the cap, router and wires at the same time. If you're just going to replace the wires just do them one at a time, take this one off. Number four, compare it to your new wires, get the same length, put the new one on and then route it down and plug it into the number four wire and do that one at a time, that way you know you plugged them all in correctly. Using a small screwdriver, you want to do this carefully because one of the biggest reasons these cars don't run is because somebody doesn't take these apart carefully and then they don't plug in correctly. You want to carefully work your screwdriver in there and then push down. Then the same thing for this one, you want to pry off the tab, push it down some and then work your screwdriver into the back and I'll need my other hand to do this. These bolts are a 1/4 inch. I've got a 1/4 inch socket with an extension and ratchet. You can see that the bolts have two ribs here and those help you locate it and you feel back in here and you feel for those ribs and then you know to stick your socket and ratchet right in between them.
We'll fast forward through removing those two bolts on the driver's side. On this one, the injection unit is in your way so I'd use a larger extension. We use that larger extension as well as some super high speed wrenching. We switch back to the two inch extension and get that rear 1/4 inch bolt out. Here, I just route my wires underneath one of the cables there and then lift the cap up and off. Okay, here's the rotor. There's a 1/4 inch bolt right here and another one just opposite it over here. We'll just fast forward here a little bit as I undo those bolts.
Over here, we have our old cap. It's a little hard to see but there's definitely some corrosion on these contacts. On the new cap, you can see nice new contacts. Same thing with the rotor here, this is all rough, kind of corroded.
First we'll put the new rotor on, it does have a notch in it here, which corresponds to a little cutout on there so you really can't put it on incorrectly. I guess you could but you'd have to really force it. You just want to make sure that notch is in the right place. Okay, fast forward as we start those and tighten those bolts and you want to tighten them firm but you don't need to make them extremely tight, you don't want to break the plastic.
We're going to put a new coil onto our new cap, we're going to take this cover off the old one. The coil in the cap will come with a little diode, put it down in the cap first and then you put the rubber washer on top like that. You don't have to put a new coil in your vehicle and actually this thing has ... I can see there's a little stamp that says, 05/03/86 so that's probably the original coil from this car. Since we're doing everything else, eliminate any doubt. Set your new coil in. Red goes on this side; yellow on this side, our ground wire. Here we're going to fast forward through putting those four bolts on that hold the coil. Again, tighten them firm, they don't need to be extremely tight and then put the cap back and tighten those. This is where we'll end part one and check out our other video with the same name with part two.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
