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Hi, I’m Mike from 1A Auto. We’ve been selling auto parts for over 30 years!
All right, so we have an oil pressure issue with our 2009 Chevy Suburban. We actually have a code for the oil pressure sensor range performance. We noticed when we start the vehicle, if you look over at the oil pressure gauge, when we start it, it is stuck at zero. Now, we know we have oil pressure because we can hear that the lifters are not clanking, or we know that the top of the engine is getting oil, but the gauge is down to zero, and like we've said, we have the code for it. At one point, this gauge was reading 80. As you can see, it's up to 80 right now, and the gauge is jumping all around while the engine is running. This is the switch sending a faulty signal to the gauge. I'm going to shut the car off right now. I'm just going to turn the key on.
Let's see what the needle does. Okay, so right now, it's stuck on 80 with the engine off. Now, we know, obviously, there's not that much oil pressure at the sender while the engine's off, so what we can do now—oh, it just dropped down to zero, but what we could have done when it's stuck at 80, we could disconnect the sensor, and if it drops to zero, then you know it's definitely the sensor. All right, so we have our hood removed just for the sake of the video, but you don't have to remove the hood to do this.
At this point, we're going to remove this cover, just lift up, and then just wiggle it forward. It comes off. Okay, the oil pressure sensor is on the back here. It's really hard to get to. You can struggle to try to get that connector off. What you'd have to do is pull the lock tab up a little bit, and then squeeze the lock on the connector, and then pull the connector off.
If your oil pressure was stuck at 80, and when you did that it dropped to zero, then that's a 100% chance that would be the oil pressure sensor or oil sender that needs to be replaced because it's shorted internally.
We are going to remove the intake so that we can show it a lot better. It's not impossible to do with the intake on, but it is a struggle. Because we're going to be disconnecting the wire to the alternator, we're going to disconnect the battery so we don't arc anything out.
I'm going to take a 10-millimeter wrench and loosen up the negative terminal on the battery. We'll just set that aside. All right, we're going to take this snorkel off. It goes between the airbox and the throttle body. What we need to do under here is a little retainer that's holding this coolant, upper radiator hose on, so just push that down you can use a trim tool if you need to, and then over here, there's a little hose that connects this to the upper valve cover, so we'll just pop that off right there. We have these worm clamps. This one right here, and this one right here over on the throttle body side as well.
We're going to take an eight-millimeter socket, an extension, and a ratchet. You could also use a straight screwdriver, and loosen these up, and then same with over here. Loosen that one up. Once those are loose, you can take this right here. Push it in like that, and then there's a little grommet right here. You're going to have to lift up to release that, and then pull straight forward, and twist a little bit. This whole snorkel will come off. Okay, we're going to disconnect the connector for the throttle body. Sometimes, there's a lock on here, a little gray tab that you'd have to pull out. This one doesn't have it, so we can just push down on the release, and pull the connector off.
Next, we're going to come over here to the alternator and disconnect this connector right here. I'm just going to push down on this lock on the connector, push down like that, and then pull it out, and then, next, we will disconnect this wire right here that goes to the alternator. It should be a 10-millimeter nut, so we'll take that off. Make sure you have the battery disconnected at this time. I'll use a 10-millimeter wrench. This happens to be a ratchet wrench, but you can just use a regular wrench, or a socket and a ratchet. It should loosen it up. You should be able to do it by hand. Pull that nut off, and then we can pull the wire out. I'm going to put the nut back on here so I remember that it goes to the alternator there, and then we can move that harness aside so it's out of our way.
Next, I'm going to disconnect this connector. This goes to the map sensor. Just push down on this retainer and pull it out. I'm going to use a 10-millimeter wrench to take this nut off right here. You can use a socket or a regular wrench. We want to take these three bolts out here on this cover. This holds the wiring harness down, so I'll use a 10-millimeter ratchet wrench. I'm going to loosen them all up first, and then do it by hand. I can spin them out by hand. Then take this cover off. It might be a little easier if you pull it to the side like that.
At this point, I'm going to disconnect these fuel injectors on this side. I'm going to use a pick tool to release the lock first. Come in behind here. Pull the lock up. Once the lock is pulled up, then I can take my fingers and just squeeze the tab and pull it up. See, that releases, and we're going to do that for the rest of these, and then we'll do it on the other side. This back one is a little bit tricky. Sometimes, you can go to the front of the lock. You push it up just like that.
Sometimes that's a little easier. Then you pull that up. Just push those out of the way. On this side, we're going to move some of the wires out of our way, lift up on this, and push it to the side. Over on the backside, there's a cover. You can get it past the cover. It'll make it easier when we're removing the intake.
All right, so this purge valve, we can disconnect the connector right here. Just slide this out, and then pull it out just like that, and then the vacuum line that goes back to the gas tank. Then push down on the lock, and pull the hose straight back, and that'll release that. We can leave this purge valve and this hose connected because it will come out with the intake, and we can disconnect these fuel injector connectors. Take my pick. I can pull up on the front of the lock like that. It's a little bit easier. Then pinch it.
Under normal circumstances, we would pull the fuel pump relay or the fuel pump fuse to release the pressure, which is number 20 in this. In this vehicle, as you can see, there is no relay there where the fuel pump relay should be, and then the fuse should be right there. That is actually part of this fuse block. It's internal to it, so there's nothing I can do for that. I mean we're not going to release the pressure by disconnecting the relay and starting the vehicle and letting it drain down, but under normal circumstances, that's what we would do.
To release the fuel pressure, there normally is a cap right here. There's no cap on this vehicle. It's missing. For us to disconnect the fuel line, I mean, instead of getting sprayed while we're disconnecting it, we're just going to release the pressure here. I'm just going to take a rag, stick it over here, and then a screwdriver. I'm going to release the pressure just like that. It didn't take much, not that much came out, so we're good to go now. Make sure you wear safety glasses when you do this. You don't want to get sprayed in the eyes with gas.
There's a bunch of different types of fuel disconnect tools. This one will work. This one will work. We actually sell a kit similar to this at 1aauto.com, but you're going to need a fuel disconnect tool. Otherwise, you will never be able to separate those lines. The fuel line is right here. There's a little lock right here. You're going to lift up on the backside of the lock like that, and then pull it forward, so just like that, just set that aside. I'll show you how to use both of these disconnect tools.
This is the three-eights size. I'm going to slide this plastic on like this. I'm going to pull the line forward first, and then you're going to push the plastic in, and that releases little fingers in there, and there we go. You just pull the line off like that. As you can see, there's little fingers in there that release it, and some fuel is going to spill out. You could put a rag in the back to catch it. I'll just show you how the other tool works.
This tool is a little bit easier. You're going to take the bigger end of the tool. You can slide this on here, and then just push. While you're pushing it with your hand, grab the line and pull back. We are going to remove these eight-millimeter bolts that hold the intake on and use an eight-millimeter socket, an extension, and a ratchet. There's 5 on each side, so 10 total. Start removing these. Now, they're going to stay with the intake manifold, so you don't have to pull them out completely. I mean, you can if you want to, but they will stay with it. Just make sure they're completely loose.
In the back here, I switched to a shorter extension so that I can get to the bolts without hitting the firewall here. Now, I'll remove the bolts on this side. Just move the wiring harness out of your way. Now, there's these bolts right here for the fuel rail. We're going to leave those attached because the fuel rail is going to come up with the intake manifold. Now, we're taking the last one out. This vent hose right here is in my way, so I'm just going to move this. This is for the PCV system. There's a little lock on this over here. You just push that lock, and then pull on the hose up. All right, so now, my intake bolts are loose, disconnected, so I'm just going to move this wiring harness out of the way a little bit.
There's a little shield on the back here, that behind there. Now, pull up on the intake. Because the bolts are in the back, you're going to lift them so that they're past the holes. This one seems like it's sticking a little bit, and if that gives you a lot of trouble, you can pull the bolts out. Just pull the bolts out like that. This vacuum hose is connected to the intake right here, for the brake booster, so what I'm going to do is just grab and just wiggle it back and forth gently, and pull that off. Now, feed that hose this way. You're going to angle the intake up like this. Then pull that hose out. Then we can pull the intake off.
All right, since we got the intake off, we don't want any debris or anything to go in these holes, so we can take some rags and just stuff them in the holes. You do want to make sure you remember to remove these when we put it back together. Just put those like that. That'll prevent anything from falling into the engine.
The oil sender is back here or the oil sensor. You can, like we said before, you can replace this while the intake is on. It's just easier to show. It is recommended to do it this way so you can see more but. We're going to lift this clip right here. That's the lock that locks this connector down, and we can push down on the terminal lock. Now, I'll release the connector. They make a special socket to replace this sensor. If you don't have one, you can actually use a one and one-sixteenth socket, a deep socket, or a 27-millimeter socket will work as well, and then we'll use our ratchet.
Once you break it loose, generally, it's pretty easy to take the sensor out by hand, and there's the sensor. Some vehicles have an oil screen down here. What you can do is take in a pick. You just slide it down in here and pull up. Sometimes, it's hard to get the screen. Pull up, and there's the screen. Generally, these will clog up with debris. Sometimes it'll give you a false reading.
Basically, you'll have no oil pressure at the sensor. You put a new sensor in it, and it's still not reading pressure because this screen is dirty, so you can either clean it out with some brake parts cleaner or replace the screen like we're going to. This one actually ripped when we pulled it out, so we have a new screen for it.
As you can see, this is our old pressure sensor and screen. This is our new pressure sensor and screen from 1aauto.com. The screen, if you look at the screens, they're the same design. Everything looks the same on that, and then the sensors themselves, the threads are the same thing. The gasket is the same. The connector is the same. Get yours from 1aauto.com, and you'll be ready to rock and roll.
Now, before we install the sensor, we're going to install screen. I'm just going to line it up in the hole. Make sure you do it with that screen going down. The top part is open. Like that. You push it down. Push it down with your finger, and then we'll take the sensor, start putting it in. I'm going to start tightening it with the ratchet, and then I'll torque it once I get it snug. I'm going to use a one and one-sixteenth socket and this torque wrench. I'm going to torque it to 26 foot-pounds. We sell these torque wrenches at 1aauto.com. It's good and tight.
At this point, I can reconnect the electrical connector. I'm going to line this up like that, lock it down, and then I can push down on the lock for the connector. There's a lot of debris in here from mice coming in here and putting nests and stuff, so what I'm going to do is I'm going to use a vacuum and vacuum out this area. One thing to keep in mind, if you're using an electric vacuum, you don't want to suck up any gasoline.
Okay, and before I put the intake back on, what I want to do is I want to clean the area around where the intake ports are. I'm going to use a rag and some brake parts cleaner. You just wipe just a little bit around this area, and I'm going to do that to all eight of the intake ports. All right, so I cleaned those, all those ports up pretty good.
I'm just going to take a little bit of compressed air while those rags are still in there and just clean up this area, and before I put the intake on, I'm going to pull all these out and make sure nothing went in there. You can take the compressed air. You just blow out those holes as well.
Okay, if you were replacing this intake manifold, the next step, what you would want to do is remove this hose for the EVAP purge solenoid. This little lock right here, you push down on that, lift that up, and then you could slide this out or take these eight-millimeter bolts out of the fuel rail, and then you can pull the fuel rail up, wiggle it back and forth, and pull the throttle body off.
There's 10-millimeter nuts and 10-millimeter bolts. Pull the MAP sensor out. There's a little lock on here. Test the slide, and then pull this PCV tube out. How you get this out is you would have to pull this stud off, and then you could twist this tube sideways, and then this will pull out. On the back side, you would have to pull this hose off. Use some pliers and squeeze that clamp, pull the hose off, and then this cover, there is a 10-millimeter nut right there, and that'll come off.
Then if we flip it over, these eight-millimeter bolts, we'll just pull these out for now, because otherwise, they're just going to fall out. Flip this over. Then we can replace the gaskets. We're going to replace the gaskets when we reinstall this one. To replace the gasket, there's a little lock right here. I'm going to pull that off right there, a little lock right here, and then one on the end. That just holds the gasket. Pull that off, and before I put the new one on, I'm going to take a rag and just wipe down this area. There's a little bit of dirt and debris in there.
These little insulation things go right here. These try to keep rodents out, but for the most part, mice still get in there and stuff, so we'll wipe these down here. Now, we'll take our new gasket and slide it on that side, and then slide it to that lock, and that lock just like that, and we'll do the same for the other side.
Now we're going to reinstall the intake. We want to make sure you got all the rags out of your ports and everything is nice and clean in that area. We did take all the bolts out of the intake. You can leave them in, but it's a little bit easier to angle the intake in with the bolts out. Now, going to set this here. I'm going to take this hose and feed it through here. It'll go under this wiring harness.
Yeah, I'm going to angle it in the back, and this wiring harness will come over on this side. It kind of helps to keep the fuel rails on because then you can use the fuel rails as handles. You can move it around a little bit, so watch out for the injector connectors, the fuel injector connectors because you don't want to squish them. That's all lined up like that. Then just give it a little shake, and make sure it's down all the way. Then we can install the bolts.
The way the bolts work on this, you kind of got to angle it a little bit. If you put them in straight, they won't go in. Just angle it so that collar will go down. Then give it a little turn. I'm going to do this—there's five on this side. I'll do it with the remaining five on the other side as well. Now, I'm going to start snugging these down a little bit with the eight-millimeter socket and an extension just by hand, just go around the whole intake and just snug them up before we torque them. All right, at this point, we're going to torque these intake bolts in sequence. We start with the middle on the passenger side. We're going to torque these to 44 inch-pounds first. Do them all in sequence, and then we're going to go back and torque them to 89 inch-pounds. We'll start with the passenger side.
Make sure that's good, and then go to the driver's side center, and pretty much do it evenly, alternating, and then you would move to the driver's side, the next one back, and then passenger-side. Next one forward from the center and alternating back and forth. Now, I'm going to do the second stage of torquing 289 inch-pounds. Make sure you're on inch-pounds, not foot-pounds. We'll torque these in sequence, the same sequence we did before.
Okay, we'll reinstall this vacuum hose that goes to the brake booster. What we're going to do is just slide this into the grommet. Over here, I'm going to rehook up the fuel injectors, the connectors. I'm just going to slide it right back on the fuel injector, and then push down on the lock, and then do this for all the rest of them. Then we'll do the same for the passenger side, just push it down and lock it in.
Next we're going to hook up this fuel line. Just slide this on right there and attach it to the fuel rail. We have this retainer that holds the fuel rail on. I'm just going to slide this on this way, and then lock it down. That'll keep the fuel rail from popping off. Next, we're going to install this EVAP line. It goes to the purge valve right here. Just slide it on, lock it in, and then we have our electrical connector. Connect that to the purge valve just like that.
Next, we're going to install this wiring harness over here, over here, and then this will slide on right there. This connector will connect to the MAP sensor—just line that up. Lock it in. This cover I'm just going to go back here like this, and that's going to go over these wiring harnesses right here. Then we'll take these 10-millimeter bolts and put these in, these three. I'll just take them up by hand first. I'm going to use a wrench. I'll use a ratchet wrench. If you don't have a ratchet wrench, you can just use a regular wrench or a socket and a ratchet. We'll just snug these up.
Remember, it's plastic so don't overtighten it. It just got to be snug. You take that 10-millimeter nut and stick it back on this bracket, and then snug this up. Now, we're going to reconnect this PCV hose. This goes to the upper valve cover and just slide that on. We can connect the throttle body connector right there, just lock that in. Then we're going to take the 12-volt feed to the battery that goes to the alternator. We're going to pull this nut off the alternator that we put on before so we didn't lose it. Put this wire on here, and then reinstall the nut. Then we'll take a 10-millimeter wrench and snug this up, not too tight, just snug, and then we'll put the boot, the protective boot that goes over that. We can connect this connector to the alternator, just line that up, and click it down.
Install the snorkel and slide this back here, so we're going to slide this over the throttle body first. You're going to hold up on this part of the snorkel because it's going to go over this little stud over here, and then you can push it down on the stud where that rubber grommet is, and we can reconnect this hose. You're just going to click it in just like that. Now, we can hook this side to the airbox, just slide this on underneath here, the upper radiator hose that just locks into there. I'm going to tighten up this one clamp with an eight-millimeter socket, an extension, and a ratchet. You can use a straight blade screwdriver as well, not too tight, just snug. I'll do the same on the throttle body side.
At this point, I'm going to reconnect the battery. Install the negative terminal, and I'll use a 10-millimeter ratchet wrench. You could use a regular wrench or a socket. Then we'll snug this up.
Now, we can reinstall this cover. I'm going to slide it underneath the heater hoses over here, slide it back, and then there's two rubber grommets under here. We'll just line up with those studs and push it down.
All right, at this point we already replaced the oil sensor, so we're going to check it now. We'll just turn the key on, and as you can see, the oil pressure gauge is sitting there at zero, which is good. Now, we'll start the vehicle, and as you can see, that the oil pressure gauge is actually reading what the actual oil pressure is accurately so we repaired the vehicle.
Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.
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Hey, everyone. Sue here from 1A Auto, and today we have a 2012 Corvette Grand Sport L3 in the shop and we're going to be putting the OP switch in. If you need that part or any other part for your car, click on the link below and head on over to 1AAuto.com.
So when removing the OP switch on the 6.2 liter we have to take the actual covers off and the upper intake out. It is located in the back corner here. On some vehicles like a Suburban, with this engine, 6.2 in it, you can actually reach back there but not on the Corvette. The fiber glass body is right here. That's it. Can't remove it. So we're going to take the upper intake off.
First thing we're going to do whenever we work on an engine is disconnect the negative battery cable. So go ahead and do that and we're going to start taking off these covers.
On this side you have to take the oil filler cap off. I always replace it. You don't want anything falling down there.
So you get your fuel feed line, right here, going into the injector rail. So we're going to have to disconnect that. I take a pocket screwdriver, remove the safety clip and set that aside. Now we have these fuel disconnect and AC disconnect tools. We sell these at 1A Auto and you're going to grab the one that fits the actual rail size. See how it has a split to it? It's going to go on like that and that sleeve goes in there and pushes the butterflies open. So push in on the line. Push the tool in and bring it towards you. You're going to get some fuel residual pressure. That's only because it's stuck inside the fuel rail.
Now that we have our fuel line disconnected we disconnect the main harness for the injectors. That is the gray connector right here on the driver side valve cover. Just going to lift that up. Lift the tab up and pull that aside. We also have to follow the harness along and you're going to have to disconnect the alternator regulator. Then down below that is the cylinder head temp sensor. You can pull that harness right up and bring it right up to the front here. Disconnect the metal clip to the power steering bracket.
And then we have the mass airflow sensor. Tab is down below. Pull out that safety tab and then just feel the clip right there. Disconnect. And now we're going to go follow the harness on the other side and see if there's anything else. MAP sensor.
So on this side we're going to disconnect the MAP sensor which is located right here in the front. You get this big tab. I always bring my trusty screwdriver because it's a little bit easier sometimes. Wiggle that harness off. Going to end up disconnecting the EVAP hoses. There's a bracket right here and I'll take my flat screwdriver, push that tab up, slide that out or just take it off there.
And on this side you're going to disconnect the main harness connector too. It's a gray connector just like the other side. Now we're going to take the throttle body air dam off and out of the way. Eight millimeter socket. I'm going to disconnect the clamp to the actual throttle body and I've got an EVAP hose right here so there's a tab right underneath here. You can see that? Push that tab and lift up on the hose. Take the rubber boot. I'm going to take my little small screwdriver and peel it off of the actual throttle body. Just run it around. Sometimes it gets stuck from temperature engine.
You've got two rubber tabs here. Actually three, one on the air box, and then these. You're going to pull these tabs up. If they come undone, don't worry about it because we're going to disconnect them from that and re-put them in the housing.
I'm going to come to the front of the car here and just give it a good pull. These are the grommets that come undone. We're just going to pull them right up like that and I'm going to put them right back into the air box dam so that way I don't forget. And that way, when we go to install, pop right down in. See how they're set up here? There's a big groove in there. The wider end goes on the bottom. So we're going to pinch them up in. Do that to all three. Then I'll probably spray it with a little silicone grease so that it goes down smoothly when I put it together.
Next step were going to do is disconnect the emission tubes, which are these black plastic tubing that runs along both sides of the intake and goes into the air box dam. So there's a little white clip right here. That's as simple as push down on those and pull. You just gotta keep your fingers pushed down on it the whole time. Releases the seal and comes out. Now we follow it down along the intake and there's one back here. So I'm going to push down on that tab and this is a little difficult because it's connected to another plastic one so there's flex when you go to pull on it.
Follow the top one right over and we go to the solanoid, the purge solanoid. That's the top one. That's connected right down here. Put my finger down there and pull this up.
Now we're going to disconnect the vacuum booster hose. It's main vacuum to the booster. You'll hear it seep out some. Hear that? That's just the air coming out of the booster. Disconnect that. And then we're going to take the actual MAP sensor out. It's a T25 Torx bit. Only one bolt holding it down. Now, there's a rubber seal that holds this inside that plastic intake. It's a plastic screw with a Torx head. It's not a bolt.
Now to grab that MAP sensor. Going to wiggle it back and forth and pull up. First thing you want to do is examine that rubber seal. Make sure it's not ripped. That seal is ripped or damaged, this car is going to run real bad after and that's not what we want.
So now we're going to move on and take the injector rail out, itself. There's an actual wiring harness from the alternator. You see it running over the top here? We're just going to disconnect that from clips. There's a little stud clip here, then there's a middle clip that holds it on right here. Now we can pull this out, away from the upper intake.
We see on this side, there are, holding the rail on ... let's see, one, basically, two bolts. Two nuts and a stud. So we're going to take that off. 10 millimeter socket. Take that stud out and the one down here. There's two on that side. Repeat the process over here.
So on this one, on the driver's side bank, there's a bracket that holds the intake down that also goes over the fuel rail. So we have to take this one intake bolt out, eight millimeter socket, before we can lift the fuel rail up. Make sure that I set that aside and I know that it goes to that bolt hole.
Now I disconnect the electrical connector harness for the injector from the fuel rail. Use a body tool to pull up on that plastic ear. You've got the injector caps on top of each injector. Holds the injector on the rail. We want to take these off with a little screwdriver. Flathead screwdriver. Lift them this way. So there's eight of these on top of each injector. So you're going to take each one off all the way around to both sides. There's also, with this fuel rail, to get to this back injector on this side, I have a steel plate. Unfortunately you're going to, probably, have to take that off just to get to the injector connector. Either that or you can just pop it off and pick it up afterwards after the whole intake is up or get a magnet.
So now that all the injector clips are undone from the fuel rail. The fuel rail is unbolted on both sides, ready to be lifted up. Note, fuel is going to come out! Even if I took pressure and release it earlier, fuel did come out of this line. There's tons of fuel left in this rail so it's going to dump out. So it's going to get stinky. What you can do is just be careful with the eyes. As a matter of fact, I'm going to put safety glasses on.
All right, so now you got your safety glasses on. I take a flathead screwdriver, just so I can really work it slowly and work it up without doing any damage. So the instructions tell you to do the step per step the way I did it and in the back of my head, I said years and years of doing this that these injectors are going to come out with the fuel rail. It just seems to be the nature of the beast and that is exactly what's happening. So I'm just going to see if I can pull it up and have the injectors stay with the rail.
And there's that bracket that I was telling you about. It's stopping it from coming all the way up. So let's take that bracket off. There we go.
I need to disconnect the connector here. Because if i lift this up I want to leave the injectors in the intake. Like that. That's ideally what I want to do.
So I have the last injector down here. Just a little guidance with the screwdriver. Not prying on anything. Can lift the fuel rail up and get it out of there.
So sometimes whenever removing a fuel rail or an injector from an intake and you're not actually working on the injector, the O ring will come off. Always want to examine them. Make sure there's no tears, no dry rot. It looks good. It still has a nice rubber bounce to it. You can reinstall them and use them or for under ten bucks you can probably get all 16 of them, top and bottom, and replace them as you go.
Now the connector that you have to disconnect is the electronic throttle body on the passenger side. So you have that little white clip, that's a safety lock clip. I know this screwdriver is a little overkill, but my other one's on the other side of the car. So you want to push in on the front tab and pull the connector out. While we're here, you'll see there is another little plastic vent from the upper plenum going to the lower intake. It's this hose right here. You're going to want to disconnect that. So whichever connector is easier to get to the one on the actual intake or the plenum, you're going to take that hose. It's the same as the emission hose. Push on that tab and then pull that hose off.
That one's difficult for you to see because the tab is underneath. Technically I can't even see it. You can just feel it with your hand and disconnect that. Get that out of the way. Now we're going to disconnect every connector to the injector. Hold onto the injector and pull up on the tab.
Now I'm going to undo all the upper intake mounting bolts. There's five on this side, five on that side. Eight millimeter socket. That back one I'm going to have to do by hand. I'm going to take each bolt out and it's just a good practice, I'm going to set it up. We know that they're all the same length but where the bracket one are I'm going to take the bolts out and you're going to have to lift it up with the two back bolts in and move it forward because of the actual overhang.
So now I'm going to grab my upper intake firmly and just lift up. See if I can manipulate this bolt out and then try to reach over there at the same time, if not, I might need help. I took the trip, the hood seal, just took it up and out of the way a little bit. There's a cover up here on the upper plenum. Take that out of the way. Just lift it up and manipulate it out and now you have more room on the upper plenum to lift upward.
There is a hose back here, connected. See if I can get this one last bolt up and out of the way. It's because I'm limited on motion because the hose is still connected in the back. But that's what I'm looking to do. Now I've got that out of the way, can set that aside and I can see the actual hose and it is, dun dun dun dun, this hose, which I knew it was. All I've got to do is, the OP switch is right there and that's what were aiming for, here. So now I can just manipulate this up and out of the way a little bit more.
I'm going to disconnect the OP switch right here because you can see it now. Once I get the harness out of the way, I can get the vacuum line over it. Pull up on that safety tab block, squeeze the tab, pull the connector up. Now, where this light was coming on, it's flashing. Oil pressure. No oil pressure and then the gauge was fluctuating everywhere. You always want to check your electrical, make sure you have no frayed wires. It doesn't look like anything got hot and melted. The prongs look okay.
So now we can manipulate this vacuum line up and out.
We have one more vacuum T, you can see it right here. That's a little vacuum line feeding the intake. So just disconnect it. I like to use needle nose pliers, it's usually what I do. Or, a better solution here, squeeze these green tabs and pull the connector off.
So now we have reached where the OP switch is, oil pressure switch, and we're going to take it out of the valley pan. And this is a one and one sixteenth wrench. We'll just put it right on there and break it free. The reason why it's so hard to take it out is because it comes from the factory with the white thread sealer on it. And you can see it coming off right now. Peeling out. See if I can get it by hand. There we go.
Whenever doing anything like this, always do an oil change after. That kind of goes with out saying. Here we have our brand new oil pressure switch from 1A Auto and here's the factory one I just took out. Wow, you can't get any more identical than this. This is, I might have to say, going down the assembly line on the same belt. It's a great price and it's OE, as far as I'm concerned. You can see the way this one went defective. They break, sometimes, internally. You can see the oil inside the connector here and that shorts it out internally inside here. Not that difficult of a job.
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So here we have the sensor from 1A Auto and it comes right from the box with, already, the thread sealer on it. So you don't have to apply any, you don't have to buy some if you don't have any. And that's nice because it's dry on there so it's really going to apply itself when it goes in. Always start it by hand. Confirm that it's going in correctly. Don't just assume and start ranking on it. This is aluminum and aluminum threads. So now with my one sixteenth wrench, I'm going to just tighten it down.
So now I've got it snugged down to the crush washer and I'm going to put my wrench on and I'm going to tighten it down and feel that crush washer seep. You actually feel it pop down and then it locks. Just like that. So now, with a clean rag, I'm just going to take a little parts cleaner, brake clean. Soak it down a little bit. And I'm just going to wipe my surfaces. I'm not going to use any abrasives, any sand paper because this looks in great shape. I just want to get any dirt, sand, anything that could have fallen down. I want to make a nice smooth surface. You can do this to both sides.
So here are the upper plenum gaskets right here. I just installed these particular ones, not even 2000 miles ago, so I'm going to examine and make sure there's no tears and make sure they're still seated properly on both sides. Strongly recommend you get a new set and get the injector O ring set, but I know I just did these not even two, three thousand miles ago so I'm going to leave them in. I'm just going to clean them up and give them a quick visual.
Now, were going to place the upper plenum back in on the heads and the valley pan. I do not want to drag it so I'm going to set it right there so that I can re-angle these hoses. I'm going to bring them down under this harness. Bring them out, over here, on the driver side. Take note that they do go around the back side of this OP switch that we just installed, so not in the front of it. Don't forget, the great old back two bolts back there. They've got to go in before we push this intake all the way in.
So now I'm going to lift it up in the front. Guide it back just a hair. Bring that harness vacuum over the OP switch. See if I can tuck it down in there. There we go. Now, I'm going to get the OP connector and reconnect this. You have some marks to line up on the switch. YOu've got the two ears here and the lock tab. So I'm looking at the angle, how this goes so I can make a clear shot of this. Set it down on top of it. Push down until I hear it click. Make sure that hose, the rubber hose, it's really out of your way.
Now with that, it clipped, and I'm going to reach my hand in to make sure that that safety lock is down all the way, and it is. So I'm going to grab my two bolts, my two ones with the bracket, and guide those in right now.
So this is the intake bolt. So what we're going to do is you want to clean the threads. We're going to take a wire wheel to each threaded bolt. They're all the same. And before we install the upper intake, we're going to apply a small bead of thread lock, about that big, and apply. This is medium strength. I don't need red strength. These are only six millimeter bolts. So just put a little bit of thread lock on that thread like that. Run it around each bolt before you install.
Okay, that one's on. Come on now. There we go. There we go. Seat it. It feels like it's seated.
Now I'm putting all the upper plenum bolts back in. Lining those up. I'm just starting them by hand. Make sure they grab nice and smooth. Then we'll torque those down. I like to take a dry run with the actual fuel rail to confirm that everything is lined up, because, you remember, I can't torque this down because I have to have this bracket loose to get the injector rail out. So I'm definitely going to put them down as far as I feel comfortable with before I put the injector rail on because I also have to put this on after the injector rail is on. This is one intake bolt over here.
So grab a little silicone paste. Sometimes I find carb clean or injector cleaner, should I say. Throttle body cleaner is amazing to put on the O rings and it will slide right in. If you use Vaseline or a silicone paste, it just doesn't work as smooth as you think it would and it really works great if you put some throttle body cleaner on there. It slide right down it.
So now we have to guide the insulation in and it has this back rubber piece. You can try to put this in at the same time with the intake but I don't know. I mean, for me, it's a headache both ways but this way seems to be a little bit more tolerable than trying to work around the thickness of this and get those back bolts in. So I like to squeeze the insulation down on one side, and once I get it there you'll see. I'll grab a screwdriver and go to this side. At this angle, I push it down over and there it is. It falls right in. Except that I put this bracket on first and on the other side. Undo this bolt, take this bracket up out out of the way. There we go.
So before I put the fuel rail down and torque everything down, I'm going to take advantage and put my emission tube right into place. I'm going to connect it in the back here and that's it. I'm not going to connect it over there on the front. And then I'm going to also connect my injectors to the harness. Yeah, that clicked in. Now I can bring my harness over and just push these in.
So technically I don't know why it tells you to disconnect the main harness connector. You really don't have to. That's what the directions said. Because the harness doesn't come out with it. I'm going to do the same thing to the other side. Slide my injector rail on.
So no I'm going to put the injector rail on top of each injector on both sides. Line it up the best I can. Then I'm going to spray throttle body cleaner at the injector on the top and see if I can get it to pop down smoothly. There we go. Watch your harness, make sure those are up and out of the way because those will interfere also. So now I take my throttle body cleaner and I just spray the top where the O rings are real quick and you'll see it pops right down like butter and I'm going to do the same to the other side.
And once you've got all the injector rails popped down on the injectors, you can put the mounting studs in both sides. Now, we're going to torque down our intake bolts and there's a pattern to it. You know, everything has a sequence. So one is here, then two, then three, then four, five, six, seven, eight, nine, ten. Eight millimeter socket and I'm going to tighten mine down first with an electric quarter inch and just snug it. I'm just going right until it stops because the first pass is 44 inch pounds.
The back one here, you're probably going to need a swivel of some sort because of the firewall. I like to switch right back over to the solid socket. And then number 10. All right. So now we can get the torque wrench ready to go.
Okay, my torque wrench is set for 44 inch pounds, that's the first pass. There's one. Two is over here. Obviously, inch pounds is not a lot. So it is important, once you put the bolts in and start them because you have thread lock on them, is to jump right on the torquing and torque it to all steps it requires. You don't want to leave it hanging around because you don't want that thread lock to dry. You want it to dry once it's in place.
This is the first step. The second step is 89 inch pounds. So now we're going to move our torque wrench up to 89. Okay, we're at 89 inch pounds, we're going to start that sequence all over again. Now, that's the final step, but I like to go one step further and I'm going to double check. I'm going to do one more pass at 89.
Now with a 10 millimeter on my quarter inch drive electric, I'm just going to snug the fuel rail down, keeping an eye on where it seats on the injectors. I know it's seated but I just want to watch it to make sure nothing acts too funky. I like to do this in a criss cross pattern, also. Now I'm going to get my torque wrench. It's still set at 89 inch pounds and I'm just going to snug that right down.
Next, we're going to put the injector clips on. See the slotted side? That side sits on the skirt of the fuel rail and this cutout circle is going to go on the top of the injector. So I use a pair of needle nose so I can fish them down in there. See if I can get it lined up properly. Push on with my finger.
See how I worked around? That side locked in over there. So I'm just going to manipulate this up a little bit. There we go. You'll know it's seated because it sits nice and square. I'll move onto the next one.
Okay, that's seated.
Now it's time to reconnect the electronic throttle body connector. Line that up, snap it in, make sure you push down the lock. Then we have that one hose that's inside here. That's going to connect to the upper plenum. Has some flex to it. Just don't force it too too much. Snap it in place. Now we can put the EVAP line back down. Kind of self molded. Does guide itself, basically, down into place. Lock in.
So this is our MAP sensor connector. This is going over to the air intake. And we're going to get the MAP sensor installed up. So here we have the MAP sensor. We're going to install it. I checked the O ring, it's in good shape. I took a little throttle body cleaner on a rag and I wiped it down.
So place it in line, just wiggle it back and forth. And then we have the actual bolt, or screw, I should say. Start it by hand, and that's a T25. Let's connect that. So now we're going to put this emission tube on. There's that purge valve on there and then this goes on the other side. There's a connector. Connect that. These clips break over time so it's not unusual to see those broken just from the heat. If they're still somewhat there, I'm going to definitely bring them so that they stop the hoses from rubbing each other. And that's basically what they're there for anyways.
So now we're over here and we're going to connect our two vacuum lines. That's this feed right here. And then our main vacuum boost. Just wiggle it back and forth. It goes right into that grommet. You know that this is going up here. This goes on the stud that goes to the fuel rail and that connector grabs right around that steel line. Always keep an eye on everything. Watch how it goes down in. You don't want it rubbing, forcing itself to rub. That's going to go on our throttle body when it comes in. That's a mass airflow sensor.
This is the connector for the head temp sensor. It goes down, right behind the little harness right here behind the alternator. It's got a little plastic tab that's going to a little bolt hole that's mounted on the side of the firewall. Sorry, mounted on the side of the block. And you're going to connect your alternator regulator. Now we will get the fuel line. Connect it back to the rail. Those are the tabs inside that act like a butterfly. So you hear it click on. Locked in. Put the safety clip on. That goes in this way and then down on the line and then reconnect my hood seal.
So now I'm going to take a throttle body cleaner, again, and on a rag that's clean I'm going to soak it and I'm going to just run this real quick on the inside right here. Line up my cover of the air filter down there. Make sure I get everything out of the way. This is a hard position if you're small. The rubber piece wants to peel over and that's what you're trying to avoid. Sometimes a nice flat head screwdriver, you can guide it around. Obviously, not with severe force. You just want to make sure that it goes around the outside of the throttle body.
So with a hook, you can also grab it and bring it around underneath, top and bottom, like this. That way it won't peel down into it. There we go, I heard it. A little quick spray on the grommets. Push down on the grommets, get them all lined up. Take your vent hose, bring it down over, click it. That goes like that. There you go. Eight millimeter socket, you want to tighten up that clamp. Then last, we're going to connect the mass airflow sensor connector. Make sure we push that locked down in. Now this has a clip on it and it goes right thee on the metal bracket right here on the power steering pump. Make sure you connect that, you don't want that harness going down, hitting the belt.
So now we're going to connect our negative battery cable back on and once that's tightened I'm going to turn the key in the on position and I'm going to check for pressure. And the fuel will shoot itself on, it will get the voltage and it will turn on for two seconds or so and it builds up pressure. I'm going to turn it off and on, turn it off and on and make sure I have no leaks on my injector O rings, confirm there are no leaks, then I'm going to start her up.
Now, with my car running, I'm going to give it a quick visual. You'll find little things that come loose just from rubbing and moving things. Just reconnect them. Injectors look great. No leaks. Okay, we're ready to put the engine cover on and give her a road test.
Now we know we've given it a visual. We have no leaks, no fuel rail leaks. Ready to put on our covers. So this cover splits with the fuel line, so you're just going to split it down over. Line up the mounting spots, push down on it. This side is the oil cover, so we got to take the oil cover off, let it slide down over, and put our cover back on.
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Hi. I'm Mike from 1AAuto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years!
Alright so we have a oil pressure issue with our 2009 Chevy Suburban. We actually have a code for the oil pressure sensor range performance. We notice when we start the vehicle, if you look over at the oil pressure gauge, when we start it, it is stuck at 0. Now we know we have oil pressure because we can hear that the lifters are not clanking. We know that the top of the engine is getting oil, but the gauge is down to 0 and like we said, we had the code for it.
At one point, this gauge was reading 80 up, as you can see. It's up to 80 right now, okay. As you can see, the gauge is jumping all around while the engine's running. This is the switch sending a faulty signal to the gauge.
So, I'm going to shut the car off right now. I'm just going to turn the key on. Let's see what the needle does. Okay so right now, it's stuck on 80 with the engine off. Now we know obviously there's not that much oil pressure at the sender, while the engine's off. So what we can do now – oh it just dropped down to 0, but what we could have done is when it's stuck at 80, we could disconnect the sensor, and if it drops to 0, then you know it's definitely the sensor.
Remove this cover. Just lift up and then just wiggle it forward. It comes off. Okay the oil pressure's sensor is on the back here; it's really hard to get to. You can struggle to try to get that connector off. What you'd have to do is pull the lock tab up a little bit and then squeeze the lock on the connector and then pull the connector off. If your oil pressure was stuck at 80, and when you did that, it dropped to 0, then that's 100%, that would be the oil pressure sensor, or oil sender that needs to be replaced because it's shorted internally. There's the sensor.
Some vehicles have an oil screen down here, what you can do is take in a pick and just slide it down in here and pull up. Pull up and there's the screen. Generally these will clog up with debris. Sometimes it will give you a false reading. Basically, you'll have no oil pressure at the sensor. You put a new sensor in it and it's still not reading pressure, and because this screen is dirty. So you can either clean it out with some brake parts cleaner or replace the screen like we're going to.
Alright, at this point we already replaced the oil sensor, so we're going to check it now. We'll just turn the key on. Then as you can see, the oil pressure gauge is sitting there at 0 which is good. So now I will start the vehicle, and as you can see, that the oil pressure gauge is actually reading accurate, what the actual oil pressure is. So we repaired the vehicle.
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