2003 GMC Safari V6 4.3L Oil Pressure Sender TRQ SWA41744

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Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.

In this video we're going to show you how to replace the oil pressure sensor on this 2005 GMC Savannah 2500 with the 6-liter V8 engine. The tools that you'll need are a 10 mm socket and a 1 and 1/16th socket and a ratchet.

To start off go to the driver's side of the vehicle and you will see there is a panel right here and you're going to want to remove these two 10 mm bolts that secure that panel. Also, you'll see that there's a latch back here. Pull that back towards you and it should unhook that clip there. Then you just want to remove those bolts and we'll just fast forward as he does this. Now with the bolts removed you can just pull on that panel. Just reach underneath it and pull it out. Be careful not to pull out the panels above it. Now on the other side there are, again, two more 10 mm bolts securing a panel. You want to just remove these two 10 mm bolts and also, like on the other side, you want to pull back this clip and unlatch that. We will fast forward as he removes these two 10 mm bolts.

Now, you just want to pry this panel off. It should pry off pretty easily. In the center of the center console, underneath there's two more of these latch clips and what you want to do is you want to just push up on the clips and free them and then once you have this unlatched, just lift up and pull forward. It should pull right out. To make more room for yourself, the engine is behind this panel so what you can do is you can see it can't come out of this vehicle because the seats are in the way. The seats are only a few bolts if you want to remove them, but if you just want a little bit more room to save time what you can is you can just remove, you see those four 10 mm bolts inside this panel? You just want to remove those. With those bolts out you can now pull that panel up and off and remove that little top piece and now with the overall access panel being shorter you can push it under the dash in that case. Just to give you a reference to where it is, you will see from the passenger's door it's actually right in the center at the back of the engine.

What you want to do, is disconnect the harness, pull up on that tap. Pull the harness right up and out and then using a 1 and 1/16th inch socket just put that over the sensor and just start loosening it up and twisting it out. You have it loosened enough it will just pull straight out.

You can see the old one's on the right and the new one from 1A Auto is on the left. They are exactly the same. You just want to take that sensor and press it down into the hole and just twist it in by hand. Once it's in there firmly you just want to get your 1 and 1/16th socket and ratchet and tighten it up the rest of the way. Now just plug the connector back into the top of the oil pressure sensor and that's all set.

To put the panel back together what you want to do is put that top piece on. Line up the access panel and you just want to keep pushing it back into place. You'll see those clips have to line up. There are hooks on the van, on the floor of the van that you need to line the latch hooks up with. One you have it lined up you just want to start connecting all those latches so just hook onto the hook, pull the tab and lock it. You want to do that with all four of them. Now you can replace the cup holder panel. Put it into the place and replace those four 10mm bolts. It helps if you do it by hand. You can hold on to it and line up all the bolts to start it out by hand and then we'll fast forward as he uses the ratchet to tighten them the rest of the way. Now you can put on that little panel right there. It just clips into place. Replace the panel underneath the driver's side. Just push all the clips in. You should hear them snap. Then you just want to replace those two 10 mm bolts and we'll fast forward as he does this. Now you just want to push that panel into place on the passenger side. You want to line up the clips, push it in and then replace those two 10 mm bolts. Then you are all set.

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Because we're gonna have to disconnect the fuel system, we want to take the pressure out of the fuel system. Just take this relay out right here, find the fuel pump relay, grab that, take that out, and then you can try to start the vehicle. Our vehicle doesn't run right now so if you crank the vehicle and then it dies, the fuel system should be unpressurized.

Now I'm gonna disconnect the battery. Use an 8-millimeter wrench. Loosen up the negative side terminal and just set that wire aside. Take this cover off. Use an 8-millimeter socket and slide it off. Take this snorkel off. There's a little retainer right here. Just use a trim tool, slide that off, then loosen up the worm clamp here. Use an 8-millimeter socket or you can use a straight blade screwdriver. Same with this one. Grab the snorkel, slide it back, and slide it out.

Take this nut off right here. Use a 10-millimeter socket. And then these two 10-millimeter bolts and then that one. And take this cover off. And we're gonna disconnect the connectors. Disconnect that one right there that's off the purge solenoid. Disconnect the alternator connector right here. Slide under the lock and pull it out. And this connector right here and the MAP sensor as well. Disconnect that. And I'm just gonna use a bungee cord to just keep the wires out of the way. Just wrap around the wiper arm.

This wire connector right here, just unattach that from the intake. Set that aside. Now we have to disconnect all the fuel injectors. There is a lock on them. This one doesn't have that lock on it, but you pull back on the lock and then you push down on that little lock tab and then slide the connector out. This one does have the lock. So the lock, you just grab the lock and just slide it up just a little bit. Then you should be able to push on the connector. Sometimes it's easier to slide the whole lock out. This is how the lock works. So when it's locked in there, this is all the way down. Slide this out. Should be able to slide this out a little bit. You don't have to slide it out that much. Anyway, that's how it's locked. Should be able to slide it out to there and then push down on the tab and release it. But like I said, sometimes it's easier just to slide this whole thing out, push it down, slide it out. Do that for all eight of them.

Disconnect the connector to the throttle body and just pull back on this little lock. Once it's back that far, push down on the tab, disconnect it. Now you could leave the throttle body attached. There's just coolant hoses that go to it. So you can either take those hoses off and just leave that all attached, take it all off on the intake or take the throttle body off. I'm gonna use a 10-millimeter socket. Take these nuts off. And sometimes the stud comes out completely, that's okay. Just get the other two out. Now you want to be careful with this. It is sensitive. You don't want to drop it. Slide this hose out of the way over here. And disconnect this hose right here. This goes to the valve cover. You can either disconnect it down here or up here. And it's been on there for a long time so it's kind of hard to get it loose. Just try to twist it back and forth. Screwdriver or a trim tool or something and just try to push on it. It should probably be replaced. The rubber is very dry. Just try not to crack this little port. There we go. Yeah, see the hose is starting to rip already. Move that to the side.

Disconnect this EVAP line. Might need a screwdriver or something to push on the tab. It slides up. Now when we take the intake off, since I'm not pulling the injector rail up, we're just gonna have to feed this through there. So just keep that in mind. And back here, disconnect this line that goes to the valve cover. Pop that up. You can disconnect it up here if you wanted to. Just put that out of the way. Now, if you weren't able to bleed the pressure off the fuel system, like I showed you earlier taking the relay out and cranking it, just take the cap off right here. Take some rags and a screwdriver and you're just going to push on this Schrader valve. Just be careful. It's a good idea to wear safety glasses while you're doing this and just release the pressure. There wasn't a lot of pressure in this one, but sometimes they spray pretty good. Looks good. Put the cap back on so I don't lose it.
Now we'll disconnect the fuel line, just pull this lock off and just slide it up and then pull it out. You're gonna need a special fuel line release tool. Slide this over the pipe, pull the line forward, and then push the tool into the line. Once the tool's in the right spot, you should be able to pull the line back, just like that. Pop it off.

Now we're gonna take the intake bolts out. There's one there, one there, one there, and then there's two in the back on this side. On the opposite side there's two in the front, one in the middle, and then two further back. So there's 5 per side, 10 in total. I'm gonna use an 8-millimeter socket. It helps to use a wobble socket or a swivel socket. And it's a good idea not to use an electric tool with the gas being out. You don't want to cause any sparks so I'm just gonna use an air tool.

All right, all those bolts are loose. Just grab the intake, slide it up. Just remember this hose has to go underneath the fuel rail over here. And just slide it through there like that. Just be careful, it is plastic. You don't want to crack it. And when you go back in, you're gonna have to feed that through there again. And slide it up.

So it's pretty dirty under here. I want to clean some of this up. I don't want any of this stuff to fall into the intake ports. What you could do is put a rag in each one of those ports and then clean it all up if that's what you want to do. Or just be careful. And you don't really want to use an electric vacuum on this because the potential of getting some of the fuel in there and then catching the vacuum on fire. So just be careful.

All right. So I put rags in all the ports. I just need to remember to take those out when I go to put the intake back on. Just use a blow gun. Just try to blow most of this away. The oil pressure sensor is right here, just unplug it. Just slide that lock tab out. It unplugs.

Now there is a special socket made just for these oil pressure sensors, but I never use one. I always just use a 1-1/16 socket. Fits right on there and it works good. And loosen it up, take it out. Once you break it free, you should be able to do it by hand. And there you go.

With the new sensor, there's a little cap right here. Just take that cap off, throw that away. Now, down in the hole where the sensor goes, sometimes there's a screen. This vehicle doesn't have a screen, so double-check. You can use a pick to pull the screen out and you can either clean the screen or replace it. Take the sensor, get that started.
All right. Once you get it in there, once it bottoms out, then just take and just snug it up just a little more. Go about an 1/8 of a turn and it should be good. Take the connector, line it up, lock it in place.

Before I put the intake on, I just want to take some brake parts cleaner and just clean the surfaces where the intake gasket is gonna sit. You don't have to clean all this up crystal clear or anything, but just where the gasket is gonna sit, make sure that's nice and clean. You can gently use a razor blade to clean some of this up. Just be careful. You don't want to gouge the metal or you don't want to cut yourself.

Take the old gaskets off. There's a little clip right here, there's another clip right here, and then another one on the bottom. Take those off. Try not to tip the intake completely upside down. Try to keep it on that side so none of the dirt goes into the ports. And then just take a little rag with some brake parts cleaner and just wipe around the intake. And take the new gasket. Just line it up, and click it into place right there, right there, and on the bottom. Make sure that looks good. Do the same on the other one.

Don't forget to take these rags out. You can check all the ports, just look down and make sure there's nothing that went in there. You can always spray a little compressed air. Now when we go to put the intake back on, we have the slide this back through the fuel rail. You could always disconnect it right here and just put this on the intake and then reconnect it down there if that makes it easier for you. And take the intake. This line is gonna go through right here. And just line it up. [inaudible 00:12:29] this line. Push that back there. And just wiggle the intake a little bit. Make sure you didn't crush any of the wires. Make sure this wire is accessible. It goes to the knock sensors. You can actually put this...just attach that right there right now so you don't lose that and get all the bolts started. Now I'm just gonna snug them down first. There is a sequence to tighten these up, but I'll snug them down first and then we'll do the torquing and the sequence after.

So number one, I'm gonna torque this bolt to 44-inch-pounds. And that's the center one on the passenger side. That's number one. Number two is gonna be the center one on the driver side. Number three is gonna be on the driver side, the next one back. Number four from the middle one, the next one forward. Number five from the middle one, back one. Number six on the driver side from the middle, forward one. Number seven is the next one forward. Number eight is the passenger side rear one. Number nine is the driver side rear. And number 10 is passenger side front one. So that was all the first pass. Now you're gonna do the same sequence and you're gonna change your torque wrench to 88-inch-pounds and do the same exact sequence.

Now we'll hook up the fuel line. Just line that up. Lock it in place, make sure that's good. Make sure you put this lock on, just slides on, and then locks down. It's just gonna prevent it from coming off. Now hookup this line our hose right here. It goes to the valve cover. And hook this line up over here. Ours is split, it should be replaced, but that'll work for now. And the EVAP line. Just make sure it locks in place and that's good.
Now check your throttle body gasket if it's crushed. Normally you have to replace it every time, but if it looks okay, you can probably try to reuse it. This one looks good. Take the studs or just the nuts if the studs didn't come out. Put those back on. Now, I'm gonna torque these to 89-inch-pounds.

Now reposition that coolant hose, those clamps. Take the electrical connector, line it up, lock it in place. Push down on the lock. That's good. Now we want to plug these injectors back in. Just take the locks, reposition the locks how those go and plug those in. Make sure they're secure. Do the same with the other seven.

Let's disconnect this bungee cord and run the wires the same way they came out. This bracket's gonna go right here. Those wires are gonna go like that. We can connect this connector right here. That goes to the knock sensor wire right there. And then this connector is gonna go to the MAP sensor in the back right there.

Now take this bracket, line that up, and take the bolts, get those all started. Put the nut on this bracket right here. That's good. Take these connectors, plug in the alternator. And this purge valve, plug that one in. And take the snorkel, line it up. Put over the intake or the throttle body. Line this bracket up right here and over the airbox or mass airflow sensor. Tighten up this worm clamp right here. Just snug. And the same right here. Take the cover, line the cover up in the back, and get the bolt started. Then tighten it up. Snug. Now let's reconnect the battery. Get the negative terminal on and snug it up. And then wiggle it, make sure it's not loose, and you're good to go.

So, to get to this OP switch, we took this off. It's much easier to get to there. You don't necessarily need to feel like reaching up and around. But it's pretty much located at this angle. All right, remove this stuff out of the way. You can see where it mounts into right where my fingers are right here. Okay. So, you're going to need your oil pressure switch socket. It's a special socket. Slide it over it, and then we'll remove it. Before we do that, we need to, of course, disconnect the wiring. I'll see if I can get it disconnected, and I'll show you. There it is.

That's what it looks like right there. Just grab this tab, and then I pulled it off. Easy peasy. Set that aside where we can find it. Here's the special socket I was talking about. As you can tell, it's not just a plain old six-point socket or anything. Let's see if I can get this in here, and bring my socket down along the back.

That slides right over. Once it's nice and loose, I'm going to go ahead and get this back off of there. It's important to take note of approximately how many turns it took to remove this because you want to remember that. It wasn't necessarily screwed all the way into the point, it was bottomed out with the engine. You can tell by how far the markings go up the tape here. It only goes up about halfway up the threaded area.

It's already got the tape on it. You don't have to worry about that. It's going to help seal it. I'm going to start this in by hand before I put my ratchet on, of course. Okay. Okay, that's approximately halfway. That feels great. Get my ratchet back off of here. Get the socket off of there. I'm just going to feel...This feels good. Perfect. Grab that wiring. Got our wiring here. Let's go ahead and get that connected in. Perfect. Awesome. If you moved any of this wiring around, just make sure that nothing is unplugged. That looks great. Awesome.