1989 Ford Bronco V8 5.0L 8th Vin Digit N Serpentine Belt Idler Pulley ACDelco 38001

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Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.

In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the idler pulley on a Ford Escort ZX2 with 2 liter dual overhead cam engine. It's going to be pretty similar to most of the Ford Escorts with that engine type. The items needed are a new idler pulley from 1AAuto.com; 10, 13, and 15mm socket and socket wrench; a 17mm wrench; and a floor jack.

The first thing you're going to want, before you do this repair, is a belt diagram and we have a nice one made up for you right here. It should give you a pretty good representation of how the belt is routed. Starting at the top left, that's the alternator. Then, going to the right, that's an idler pulley, to the power steering pump them down to the A/C compressor, then over to the crank shaft, then to the tensioner pulley, then to the water pump, another idler pulley and up to the alternator.

In the lower front and right in the wheel area, there's seven 10mm bolts that hold this splash pan in place. In this case, on our car, there's only four, but you're going to remove all of them. Actually, what we find is we take off one and the pan kind of bends down, and we try to remove the other ones but the clips in behind were so rusted that we decided we didn't want to break all of them. We just left it that way and let the pan, or the splash pan hang down out of the way.

I've got a 13mm socket on the end of my ratchet and I'm going to put it on the bolt that goes through the pulley, on the tensioner pulley. I'm going to turn it clockwise to remove the pressure on the belt and then slide the belt off the crank and the rest of the pulleys. The rest of the way, it's a matter of just pulling it down, twisting it a little bit to get it off some of the pulleys and you could also pull it off from the top, as well.

We've got the jack under the oil pan, just enough to support it. We're not really lifting the engine, we're just supporting it. I'm taking out the 17mm bolt that holds on the engine mount. I'm going to fast forward through me removing that bolt. We've got Mike jacking up the engine just a little bit to give us a little more clearance. Here, I've got the wrench on the idler pulley. I'm going to fast forward removing the bolt.

We've got the old part and we've got the identical part from 1A Auto. We're going to fast forward this but it's just the idler pulley and bolt going back in.

Here, I'm reinstalling the bolt for the engine mount and I'm having Mike lower the engine slowly so it lines the holes back up. Once you've got the bolt in, just go ahead and tighten it up.

You're not really going to be able to see me doing the belt, but snake it back in and follow the diagram for routing it. That first step that Don just did, he just got the belt down below the A/C and the crank pulley, preliminarily. Here, I'm just continuing the push the belt down in and trying to get it around as many of the pulleys as I can. I'm just going to speed it along a little bit as I get the belt on. What Don just did there was, there's just some clearance issues getting by the water pump and those tensioner pulleys, he just kind of twisted it to the side and got it over on its way to the alternator. With the top part, it's pretty much done. It's around the alternator, underneath the idler and over the power steering. I want to get this belt on the other side of this pulley, the ribbed pulley here. I'm going to twist it and try not to have it fall of the alternator pulley which is right above it. All right, good.

What we've done here is we've pulled a loop across and you can see I'm helping him out a little bit. I'm holding the belt off of the A/C pulley so he can pull the loop from that tensioner on the back side of the motor towards the front and put it on to the tensioner in the front of the engine. In order to get the wrench in there, it's better to have the pulley off of the crank rather than the A/C pulley, so he just transfers it, takes it off the crank so he has enough room to get it on. I'm using a 15mm here, which is what the new one came with and turning it clockwise. I have to release the tension on the bearing and I've got to make sure, too, that all my belts are on the pulleys because if they're off a little bit, it's not going to give me the room I need. Everything is on except for the crank pulley, and as I do this, it's going to give me room. I'm going to hold it in tight. You can see, Don. He's working the wrench with the right hand and then using the left hand push the belt on to the crank pulley.

Make sure they're all on. Make sure all of them are on and the belt is lined up with the teeth on your pulleys and plug your AC back in. I'm just going to give it one more look up top, like below. I want to make sure that the toothed belt is seated correctly on the power steering, alternator, water pump and below this idler pulley. Once you've done that, just put the splash pan back up and bolt it back in place.

We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.

Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.

Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.

In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the serpentine belt idler pulley. This is a pulley that doesn't turn any accessories; it's just a pulley that holds the serpentine belt in its routing position. It's pretty easy. There are two tools you'll need. You'll need a 15mm socket with a ratchet handle and you'll also need a T50 Torx driver socket, with the same ratchet handle.

This truck has the 5-liter V8 engine in it. Obviously, your serpentine belt's right here. The first thing you want to do, though, is make sure that your belt diagram is intact. That's going to be a big help when you're putting the belt back on. It actually gives you a little diagram of how to do it. You'll need a 15mm socket on a ratchet. You take the socket and ratchet, put it right down here, on your tensioner bolt, and then you pull this counterclockwise. You can see that the belt loosens up when you do that. So, I pull the wrench that way, then you just slip it right off this idler pulley here. Then, slowly, let your wrench back, and take it off. Then just pull the belt off. Pull it right up. We have to reach down to pull it off the crank pulley, and the belt comes right up and out.

Once you have the belt off, then you can grab on the pulleys. You shouldn't feel any play, and they should rotate smoothly. This one actually has a lot of catching in it. We'll replace it for you. You'll need a T50 Torx driver. Just put that right into the bolt, make sure it's in there well. Once you get the bolt going, it comes off.

There's our original. The new one from 1A Auto is exactly the same. The original is- I'm sticking my finger in there and it's all bound up. This one, obviously works very nicely. It works well. I'll put the bolt in. Just put it right on. It's tight.

To put the belt back on, what you're going to do is take a loop and feed it down, and get it on this crankshaft pulley first, and then hen up around this air pump. Then you're going to flop it over, down here to this power steering pump, up to the A/C, then across. We'll put it on the alternator, and keep it off the idler pulley first. Here's a new belt from 1A Auto. We'll put it down. We'll reach down on the other side of the motor, and pull a loop down onto the crankshaft pulley. Pull some of the slack out. Then take a loop and go down to the power steering pulley way over here on the other side. Bring it up onto the A/C pulley. It goes down around and it comes up from the crankshaft pulley to the air pulley, and then it goes around the tensioner, then around the alternator. This belt is a little bit tighter. What we're going to do is put it around the alternator first. What I'm going to do is just put the socket, I've got the belt around the socket here. Take some tension off with this wrench. First, I'll get it right on the tensioner pulley. Now it's actually on the tensioner pulley. It's on everything correctly. It's on the A/C, it's on the power steering, here on the water pump, way down underneath the crank, and everything. Now, I can pull the tensioner back. Take it and push it underneath this idler pulley. Let the tensioner off. It's all set.

We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.

Hi, I'm Mike from 1AAuto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years! We're dedicated to delivering quality auto parts, expert customer service, and fast and free shipping, all backed by our 100% satisfaction guarantee. So visit us at 1AAuto.com, your trusted source for quality auto parts.

In this video, we're going to be working with our 1996 GMC Sierra K1500 5.7-liter V8. We're going to show you how to remove and replace the idler pulley on your serpentine belt.

If you like this video, please click subscribe. We have a ton more information on this truck as well as many other makes and models. If you ever need parts for your car, you can follow the link down in the description over to 1AAuto.com.

Here are the items you'll need for this repair: 13mm socket, ratchet, socket extension, torque wrench

Be sure your vehicle has a belt path diagram somewhere on the cowl or under the hood before removing the belt. If it's missing or unclear, be sure to draw it somewhere under the hood or take a good picture. Put the 3/8 drive of a ratchet into the square on your serpentine belt tensioner and turn it counterclockwise to release tension. Then simply pull the belt off of any one of the pulleys, slowly release the tension from the tensioner. Remove your ratchet, and take the belt off of the pulleys.

Your idler pulley is located at the top center of the engine at the front, right between your alternator and your A/C if your vehicle came equipped. Use a 13mm socket and ratchet to remove the 13mm bolt in the center of the pulley. Remove the pulley from the vehicle.

Now our pulley is still in okay shape, so rather than waste a new part, we're going to reinstall it, but installing your new part will be exactly the same. Simply line up the bolt, which is captured inside of the pulley so it doesn't come out. We'll bring that in as far as we can by hand and then tighten it down with our 13mm socket and ratchet before torqueing. Torque this bolt to 37 foot pounds. Make sure that it rolls smoothly and freely.

Hook the serpentine belt around the crank pulley or harmonic balancer from the passenger side. Be sure that it seats fully into the grooves of the pulley and doesn't lay over the edge on either side. Wrap the driver's side of the belt around the water pump, under the power steering pump on the other side, and up and over the AC compressor. I already have the left side wrapped around the tensioner here just because that's where it falls. Then, from over the AC compressor under the idler pulley, reinstall the ratchet into the tensioner. Turn the ratchet counterclockwise to release the tension, and install your belt over the alternator. Take a second just to look around and make sure that your belt is seated and routed properly before releasing the tension and removing your ratchet.

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