2010 Toyota Venza V6 3.5L Downstream Rear O2 Oxygen Sensor Walker Products 250-54007

Hi, I’m Mike from 1A Auto. We’ve been selling auto parts for over 30 years!

Open the hood. Pull the release handle down here above your knee. Release the safety, which is right here. This hood had hood struts. On this PZEV Camry, bank one sensor one is at the top of the exhaust manifold here. The wire goes over here to the connector. And can just see the connector. And you can just get to the lock port, it's kind of difficult. I'm going to remove the air box, just slightly out-of-the-way so I can get to this connector better and undo it before I remote the O2 sensor from the manifold.

Use a 10 millimeter socket and ratchet to loosen this up. There's a second one on the backside. Unplug this electrical connector here. Unplug this one here. This harness is actually connected to the air box, so can't pop it off. I'm just going to leave it here and move it to the side. Loosen this clamp, the intake tube. Lift up the air box. Make sure those are fully released. Take our air filter out of here so it doesn't get damaged. This harness here has a little push connector. I'm going to take these needle nosed pliers and just push them together. And just pop it out and put it aside. Put this aside so it doesn't get damaged.

Can see the sensor connector here for the O2 sensor. Push in the lock. Need a flat bladed screwdriver to push the lock open. Push the lock open with a flat bladed screwdriver and work the O2 sensor out, just like that. To un-clip it from this clamp that's holding around the upper radiator hose, going to squeeze these little tabs together. Just kind of unlock it. Just leave that in place. Lift this up. Pull it out of this clamp, this metal clamp. It keeps the wire from touching the hot exhaust and melting, so you'll want to keep that and use it. It should pop right off of the O2 sensor. We'll just put that over here.

I'm ready to remove the O2 sensor from the exhaust manifold. This is a 22 millimeter on the O2 sensor. Luckily, it's actually big enough for the connector to go through, so you can slide the box into the wrench on there. Get it seated. Give it a nice pull. There's the O2 sensor.

Here's the old O2 sensor and our brand new one from 1AAuto.com. The same length of wire. The same style connector. This should fit in the vehicle and work great for you.

The O2 sensor does come with anti-seize on it. I'm going to add a little extra copper anti-seize to it just before I install it. Make sure you keep it on the threads and away from the sensor tip. Hold the wire up. Thread it in by hand. You have to spin the wire around with it. Make sure the thread's in nice. Take a 22 millimeter wrench and just tighten it up until I feel the gasket crush. I'm going to clip this little bracket back on to place. Snaps over just like that. Clip my wire into it. Keeps it away from the exhaust manifold. Run the wire down over the plastic clamp, just like the original. Clip it back together. The connector is here. I'm going to line it back up just like the original and hold the back of this connector and push together so it clicks.

Reinstall the air filter. Take the upper air box. Connect those tabs underneath that lock it into place. Push it down. There's an alignment tab or opening here on the rubber hose that matches up with this tab here. I'm going to push this down. It should slide right over. Make sure that this claim is seated in the grooves. Tighten it back down. Reinstall the bolts that are holding the air box cover down. Don't forget the one in the back. Finally, don't forget this harness. Plug it back into the air box where I pulled it out of. Put it back into the mass airflow meter. Plug it back into this connector here. The air box is reinstalled.

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Hi. I'm Mike from 1AAuto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years!

The front O2 sensor is located here before the cat and the wire for the connector followed up here to the side of the engine. We've removed the engine cover. You could do this without removing the engine cover. This just makes it easier to see.

It is clipped to the radiator hose. We'll squeeze these tabs. Just using a flat bladed screwdriver, try to pry this apart. It's kind of stuck. Usually, these come apart pretty easily. So I'll squeeze the two tabs together and then pry it on this. Squeeze them together. We'll keep prying. That will come apart. You can see how it works. So it clips together and you just squeeze these tabs together. It's just filled with dirt. It's hard to get apart. Put that aside to reuse it.

You need to unlock the O2 sensor connector up here. So you can either push in on this lock. See, it's going to move that tab up. You might not move it up enough. Take a small flat bladed screwdriver. Sort of pry it up and at the same time, pull the connector out just like that.

Our oxygen sensor socket is too wide to fit in this shielded oxygen sensor. You can get a thin walled oxygen sensor socket if you need to remove this oxygen sensor and reuse it if you are replacing the cat. I plan on using the same size socket but in a thin walled, just a regular version. However, the wires are in the way. So again, if you want to reuse your O2 sensor, this would not be the way to remove it, but if you need to just get it out because it's failed and you got to replace it with a new one, you can do this. So I'm going to cut the wires. Take that harness out of there. I'm using a 7/8” extra deep socket and a breaker bar. Put into place. Break it free. Spin it out. You can see this had a shield on it.

Here's the original O2 sensor. Had a shield on it. There's a brand new one from 1AAuto.com. Doesn't have a shield on it. Not a big deal. You don't 100% need that. Obviously, I cut this to get it off. The harness is the same length with the same style connector. This'll thread right in and work great for us. So it already comes with anti-seize applied to the threads.

Thread it in by hand. Now we can use our actual oxygen sensor socket and I will tighten it down. Basically, just feel the crush ring that's on the end of it. It'll start to crush and right there, that's perfect.

Run the wire back up underneath the upper radiator hose. Then well plug the connector back in. That's keyed. It can only go in one way. I'm going to hold it from the back. It'll click when it locks into place. Take our little wire holder. Get the wire up and away from the exhaust and just clip it in place just like the original. The O2 sensor's replaced.

Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.

Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years. We're dedicated to delivering quality auto parts, expert customer service, fast and free shipping, all backed by our 100% satisfaction guarantee. Visit us at 1AAuto.com, your trusted source for quality auto parts.

In this video I have a couple of oxygen sensors with me. While there are some aesthetic differences here, the wire lengths are a little different, the actual body and tip of the sensor are a little different, the threads and gasket are the same, and on the other end the connections are actually the same. I can plug these into either position on our vehicle. But if I had to ask you which one's upstream and which one's downstream, you probably can't tell just from looking at them. That's true of most oxygen sensors. The way you determine whether or not an O2 sensor is upstream or downstream is all done visually.

Your oxygen sensor position can be determined relative to your catalytic convertor. As the name suggests, upstream sensors will be located upstream or ahead of, in front of, above, closer to the engine than your catalytic convertors. This means that they see the exhaust gasses first. They then go through the catalytic convertor and to the downstream oxygen sensor, which will either be located in the catalytic convertor like our vehicle here, or after the catalytic convertor to monitor the gasses coming out of the cat and make sure that it's being efficient relative to the readings of the upstream O2 sensor.

The other determination you need to make is bank one versus bank two. Determining which bank is which can be done by looking at a picture of your vehicle's firing order. Whichever bank contains cylinder one is going to be bank one, and the other one, regardless of whether or not cylinder two is in it, is going to be bank two by default. These banks are true of V engines like V8s, V6s, and flat engines like Porsches and Subarus that have individual banks.

On inline four-cylinder engines, as long as they have one exhaust manifold like a Jeep four-liter or a four-cylinder Honda engine, you'll only have one bank with an upstream and downstream O2 sensor. There will be no bank two on the engine.

On our vehicle here, this is the passenger side, which we've already determined from the firing order is bank one. We have our upstream sensor here closest to the engine ahead of the cat. Then we have our downstream or sensor two here inside of the catalytic convertor. This could also be located somewhere after the cat. Here I have my two sensors for the vehicle. While they are aesthetically different, we can now tell this is my upstream sensor because it looks just like the upstream sensor I have up there. This is my downstream sensor. Now that we know which one's which, we can order the right part, correct the problem, and fix you up right.

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