Kit Includes: (2) Front Lower Ball Joints (2) Front Outer Tie Rods (2) Front Sway Bar Links (2) Front Steering Rack & Pinion Bellows (2) Front Strut & Spring Assemblies (2) Front Inner Tie Rods
Quantity: 12 Piece
Specification
VIN Code
8th Vin Digit J or M
Steering / Suspension Option
with 23mm Diameter Sway Bar
Location
Front
TRQ suspension kits are manufactured using premium raw materials and coatings for extended service life. Each TRQ suspension component is designed to be a direct, maintenance-free replacement to the stock unit. To extend the life of your steering and suspension components, TRQ recommends replacing components in pairs, sets, or kits. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Application Specific Design: No modifications necessary
Anti-Corrosion Coated: Enhanced surface life
Pre-greased: No additional maintenance required
Kitted for Restored Performance: Improved road-feel and handling
Replacing struts used to require specialized tools to compress, remove, and transfer the old spring and mount. Our Pre-assembled, complete strut & spring assemblies come with all new parts and make the job much quicker and easier for the do-it-yourself mechanic.
Strut & spring assembly contains:
Upper Strut Mount
Strut Bearing
Coil Spring
Boot & Bumper Kit
Gas-charged Strut
Install Tip: When replacing steering components, have a professional alignment performed afterwards. This ensures proper tracking and even tire wear.
Our steering and suspension components are pre-greased and sealed for long life and do not require the extra maintenance typically required by greaseable versions.
Item Condition:New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Chromium (Hexavalent Compounds), which is known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
FREE Shipping is standard on orders shipped to the lower 48 States (Contiguous United States). Standard shipping charges apply to Hawaii and Alaska.
Shipping is not available to a P.O. Box, APO/FPO/DPO addresses, US Territories, or Canada for this item.
Expedited is available on checkout to the United States, excluding Alaska, Hawaii.
Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
How to Replace Tie Rod End 1999-2005 Volkswagen Jetta
How to Replace Ball Joint 1999-2005 Volkswagen Jetta
How to Replace Sway Bar Link 2001-05 Volkswagen Jetta or Golf
How to Replace Sway Bar Link 2001-10 Volkswagen Beetle
Created on:
Tools used
Measuring Tape
19mm Socket
Hammer
6mm Allen Wrench
Ratchet
Floor Jack
Torque Wrench
Jack Stands
7mm Allen Wrench
17mm Socket
1. Removing the Wheel
Remove the lug nut caps with a 7mm Allen bit
Insert the lug nut key into the locking lug nut
Loosen the lug nuts with the vehicle on the ground
Raise the vehicle with a floor jack
Secure the vehicle on jack stands
Remove the lug nuts
Pull off the wheel
2. Removing the Outer Tie Rod
Measure the distance from the inner tie rod boot to the end of the outer tie rod
Record that measurement
Loosen the 22mm nut that attaches the inner tie rod to the outer tie rod
Use a 6mm Allen wrench and a 19mm wrench to remove the nut at the bottom of the tie rod end
Loosen the tie rod by striking the steering knuckle with a hammer
Pull the tie rod up and out of the steering knuckle
Twist off the outer tie rod
3. Installing the New Outer Tie Rod
Twist the new outer tie rod onto the inner tie rod
Push the outer tie rod into the steering knuckle
Fasten the nut onto the outer tie rod with a 19mm wrench and a 6mm Allen wrench
Tighten the 19mm nut to 50 foot-pounds of torque
Measure the distance from the inner tie rod boot to the end of the outer tie rod
Check that this is the same distance as recorded in Step 2
Tighten the 22mm nut that attaches the inner tie rod to the outer tie rod
4. Reattaching the Wheel
Slide the wheel into place
Start the lug nuts by hand
Tighten the lug nuts preliminarily
Lower the vehicle to the ground
Tighten the lug nuts to 100 foot-pounds in a crossing or star pattern
Attach the lug nut covers
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the outer tie rod on this 2004 Volkswagen Jetta. We show you on the passenger's side, but the driver's side is a similar procedure. The items you'll need for this are a new outer tie rod from 1AAuto.com, a 17mm socket and ratchet, 19 and 22mm wrenches, 6 and 7mm Allen wrenches or bits, torque wrench, jack, and jack stands, and depending on the condition of your vehicle, you may also need a hammer. It's important to note that after you do any work on your inner or outer tie rods that you should get a professional alignment done after the procedure.
Start off using a 7mm Allen wrench and just prying out these lug nut caps. I'll fast-forward as he does the rest of those. You'll notice that this lug nut is a little different than the others. You're going to need a key to remove it, and that key can be found right here next to your jack stand in your trunk. You can just push it into that lug nut, and now it removes just like a regular lug nut. If you don't have air-powered tools, you're going to want to loosen up these lug nuts, then raise the vehicle and remove them the rest of the way. Once the lug nuts are removed the wheel will pull right off. On the back of your wheel, right here, is your outer tie rod. You want to measure from right here to the end of your outer tie rod, and write down that measurement. Then using a 22mm wrench, just loosen up this nut right here. Use a 6mm Allen bit or wrench up through the bottom of your tie rod with a 19mm wrench to loosen up and remove that nut. We'll just fast-forward as Don does this. Our tie rod lifts up and out. Typically, it will put up a bit more of a fight, so you just want to hammer right her on the knuckle, and then you should be able to pull it up and out too. Now, just remove it from the inner tie rod buy just twisting it off. We'll fast-forward as Don does this.
On the left is the old outer tie rod. On the right is the new one from 1A Auto. You can see they're identical and they're going to fit exactly the same. Twist your new outer tie rod into place. Keep twisting it so that it's tight on there. Then push it straight down into the knuckle. Replace the nut. Using your Allen wrench and your wrench, you want to tighten up that nut. Then, torque this to about 50 foot-pounds. Then measure, make sure it's the same distance as what you had before. If it is, tighten up this nut.
Push the wheel back into place and line up the holes for the lug bolts. Then, replace the lug bolts. If you don't have air-powered tools, you want to tighten these preliminarily, lower the vehicle, and then tighten them the rest of the way. Then lower the vehicle, and torque each lug nut to 100 foot-pounds in a crossing pattern. Replace your lug nut caps and you're all set.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
Hammer
Torque Wrench
18mm Wrench
16mm Socket
17mm Socket
Jack Stands
19mm Wrench
18mm Socket
Ratchet
Floor Jack
7mm Allen Wrench
13mm Wrench
1. Removing the Wheel
Remove the lug nut covers with a 7mm Allen bit
Push the lug nut key into the special lug nut
Loosen the lug nuts with the vehicle on the ground
Raise the vehicle with a floor jack
Secure the vehicle on jack stands
Remove the lug nuts
Pull off the wheel
2. Removing the Lower Control Arm
Remove the first 18mm bolt from the control arm with a ratchet and pipe for leverage
Loosen the second 18mm bolt with the ratchet and pipe
Hold the bolt with an 18mm wrench
Remove the second 18mm bolt with the ratchet
Remove the 16mm bolt from the sway bar link
Attach locking pliers between the wheel knuckle and the ball joint nut
Remove the ball joint nut with a 19mm wrench
Pull the wheel aside
Pull the control arm down and out
3. Removing the Ball Joint from the Control Arm
Remove the three 13mm bolts that hold the ball joint in place
Pull the ball joint out of the control arm
4. Attaching the New Ball Joint to the Control Arm
Put the new ball joint into place on the control arm
Put the ball joint bracket into place
Thread the 13mm bolts through from the bottom
Tighten the 13mm bolts to 40 foot-pounds of torque
5. Installing the Lower Control Arm
Push the control arm into place
Tap it into place with a hammer if necessary
Push the 18mm bolts and associated nuts into place
Push the ball joint into the wheel knuckle
Put the 19mm nut onto the ball joint
Tighten the 19mm nut
Tighten the 18mm bolts to 70 foot-pounds
Insert the 16mm bolt into the sway bar link
6. Reattaching the Wheel
Slide the wheel into place
Start the lug nuts by hand
Tighten the lug nuts preliminarily
Lower the vehicle to the ground
Tighten the lug nuts to 100 foot-pounds in a crossing or star pattern
Reattach the lug nut caps
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video we're going to show you how to replace a front lower ball joint on this 2004 Volkswagen Jetta. We show you on the passenger's side, but the driver's side is the same procedure. The items you'll need for this are a new ball joint from 1AAuto.com, 16, 17, and 18mm socket and ratchet; 13, 18, and 19mm wrenches, 7mm Allen bit, locking pliers, torque wrench, jack and jack stands, and a hammer.
Start off by using a 7mm Allen bit, and just prying out these lug nut caps. We'll fast forwards as he does the rest of those. You'll notice that this lug nut is a little different than the others. You're going to need a key to remove it, and that key can be found right here next to your jack stand in your truck. You can just push it into that lug nut, and now it removes just like a regular lug nut. If you don't have the benefit of air power tools, then loosen up the lug nuts while the vehicle is on the ground. Raise and support the vehicle and them remove them the rest of the way. Once the lug nuts are removed, the wheel will pull right off.
Your lower control arm is located right here, and you want to start off by removing these two 18mm bolts. You're going to see on the first one we use a socket and ratchet and a piece of pipe for some extra leverage to get it going. For this bolt, you're going to need both hands to remove, so first just break it free. Then you're going to want to put an 18mm wrench on the top of it. Then use your socket and ratchet for the bolt itself. We'll just fast forward as Don does this. Next, remove this 16mm bolt in your sway bar link. At the top of this ball joint there's a 13mm nut, and you want to go ahead and remove that. To do that, you want to put some locking pliers in between the gasket on the ball joint and the wheel knuckle. Using a 13mm wrench remove the nut at the top. We'll just fast forward as Don does this. Once that's removed just pull the wheel away, and then pull the control arm down and out. Next, remove these three 13mm bolts that hold the ball joint in place. Once those are removed your ball joint pulls right out.
On the left is your old ball joint, on the right is the new one from 1A Auto. You can see they're identical and they're going to fit exactly the same. Take your new ball joint, and you can see we're using a new control arm just because of the condition of our older one. You just put that bracket into place and then put the bolts up through the bottom. We'll just fast forward as Don does this, and then tightens those up. Then torque each of these to 40 foot-pounds.
Push the lower control arm back into place. You may need a hammer to help push it back. Then put one of your bolts in, and if doesn't fit, hammer it back a little further. Push the bolt in all the way, and then put the nut on the other side of it. Just make sure the other side lines up, push that bolt back into place. Now you can line up your ball joint and push that up into the wheel knuckle. Then just replace that nut at the top of the ball joint. We'll fast forward as Don tightens up those two bolts and that nut at the top of the ball joint. The nut on our new ball joint was 19mm. Now torque those two 18mm bolts to 70 foot pound. Replace that 16mm bolt and your sway bar link, and tighten it up. Push the wheel back into place and line up the holes for the lug bolts. Then replace the lug bolts. If you don't have air powered tools, you want to tighten these preliminarily, lower the vehicle and then tighten them the rest of the way. Then lower the vehicle and torque each lug nut to 100 foot pounds in a crossing pattern. Replace your lug nut caps and you're all set.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
16mm Wrench
16mm Socket
Jack Stands
Ratchet
Floor Jack
1. Removing the Sway Bar Link
Raise and secure the vehicle
Hold the 16mm nut at the top of the sway bar link with a 16mm wrench
Remove the 16mm bolt from the top of the sway bar link with a socket and ratchet
Remove the 16mm bolt from the bottom of the sway bar link
Pull off the sway bar link
2. Installing the New Sway Bar Link
Push the new sway bar link into place
Thread the lower bolt by hand
Thread the upper bolt by hand
Thread the nut onto the upper bolt by hand
Tighten the bolts
Lower the vehicle to the ground
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video we're going to show you how to replace a sway bar link on this 2004 Volkswagen Jetta. We show you on the passenger side but the driver's side is the same procedure. You'll need a new sway bar link from 1AAuto.com, a 16mm socket and ratchet and a 16mm wrench. A jack and jack stands are recommended but optional. You can get to the sway bar link just by turning your wheels but it's usually pretty difficult to get in there and get the leverage you need to get the bolts out, so most likely you'll want a jack and jack stands to help you get underneath the car and get better leverage to get the bolts loose.
Your sway bar link is located right here and in the same spot on the other side. It's held in with two 16-mm bolts and the best way to remove the top one is with the 16-mm wrench on one side and a 16-mm socket and ratchet on the other. The lower one doesn't even need a wrench to hold it. You can do this without jacking up your car. Make sure it's on a flat surface and turn the wheels all the way to one side and you'll be able to access the links. Once it's removed, the sway bar link pulls right off.
On the left is the old sway bar link. On the right is the new one from 1A Auto. You can see they're identical and they'll fit exactly the same. Take your new sway bar link and push it into place and just twist the bolt in to hold it in and then twist the upper bolt in. Replace the nut and then just tighten those up.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
16mm Socket
17mm Socket
Jack Stands
Floor Jack
10mm Allen Wrench
1. Removing the Sway Bar Link
Hold the 10mm Allen bolt still with an Allen wrench
Remove the 16mm nut with a 16mm socket
Hit the sway bar link out and remove the 17mm bolt
2. Installing the Sway Bar Link
Push the sway bar link into place and replace the 17mm bolt
Replace the 16mm nut
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to-video helps you out, and the next time you need a part for your vehicle think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace a sway bar link on this 2001 Volkswagen Beetle. We show you on the passenger's side, but the driver's side is the same procedure. The items you'll need are a 16 and 17mm socket and ratchet, a 10mm Allen wrench, and jack and jack stands.
Your sway bar link is located right here, and up top there is a 16mm nut, and on the other side of it is a 10mm Allen bolt. Using a 10mm Allen wrench, hold the bolt still while you remove the nut with the 16mm socket. Then just hit that out, and remove this 17mm bolt. The sway bar will just pull off. Take your new sway bar link, push it into place and then replace that 17mm bolt and that 16mm nut.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
PSA59611
In Stock
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4.50/ 5.02
2 reviews
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The best parts web site ever
Luther
November 19, 2017
I bought all my parts for Volvo xc90 and Vw nettle always a perfect fit, everything is going well with my vehicles everyone should buy these guys. You won't regret it trust me
Great value.
Carus
December 8, 2017
I am withholding one star for two reasons. One tie rod end could not be used because it spun freely and would not allow the proper torque setting. Also, the ball joints did not come with the pictured top plate or factory style hardware.
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